1/4 oz AGE's are what im transitioning to. I like the better durability of the .916 gold as opposed to .999. I also think the size is perfect as far as not being too small, yet easily divisible. The final factor is that they are "bare" coins. That is to say, maples come in those mylar pouches to deter scratching. It really becomes a bulky and cumbersome entity though once you have accumulated 50-100 of these pouched coins. I like the feel of gold, not mylar. Just my observations.
Thanks for your perspectives on this, my local B&M is selling AGE's or Maples for spot + $45.00 is that the going price or should I keep looking for a better price.
Support your local gunslinger, you never know when you'll need him
I like all gold except obscure gold coins from countries like Ethiopia unless I get it for SUPER cheap because they are hard to sell and of course I dislike Chinese Pandas, I'm a traitor LOL
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"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
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I like fractional gold if you can get it at a decent price because here is how I look at it:
Lets say you are in a bind and need 500 bucks.
Well if you had 1 oz gold coin you would have to sell that whole ozer just to get the 500 bucks that you need. You sell that gold and now you don't own anymore except some cash.
However if you had 4 1/4 ozers, you could sell 2 of them and still have 1/2 of physical gold.
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<< <i>I like the better durability of the .916 gold as opposed to .999. >>
You prefer gold contaminated with copper more than pure gold?
I'm kidding, of course.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
It took me owning krugerrands before I understood what people have known for thousands (well, at least hundreds) of years and what Gecko is talking about:
Gold with a very small alloy of copper or copper/silver is simply much, much more durable than pure gold.
Now there is a balance. American jewelry, for example, at 14k gold or roughly 58% pure is a total rip-off. There is simply no reason for that kind of watering down.
But the fact is that krugerrands are legal tender and are, or were, made to be spent. Just as all American gold coins were originally designed to do, and every other gold coin for the last 1000 years until the 20th century.
I understand the arguments in favor of pure gold. And I have more .999 gold than any other recipe. But there really is something to be said for having gold that can take a beating.
We are like children who look at print and see a serpent in the last letter but one, and a sword in the last. --Severian the Lame
For stacking bullion gold, I prefer the Perth Mint 1 troy ounce 9999 Australia Kangaroo nuggets or Lunar series because they come in individual lucite holders and change designs annually.
For my collection, I keep up to date on the 1 troy ounce China Panda gold.
So after reading all your thoughts on this I'm seeing that it would be better to buy a mix of 1/4/ to 1oz and not just the 1oz like I was planning. Weiss you make some good points but these will be stored and seldom handled purely investment. Now to find a place to buy I'll check some of the larger sellers for prices----Tom
Support your local gunslinger, you never know when you'll need him
<< <i>So after reading all your thoughts on this I'm seeing that it would be better to buy a mix of 1/4/ to 1oz and not just the 1oz like I was planning. Weiss you make some good points but these will be stored and seldom handled purely investment. Now to find a place to buy I'll check some of the larger sellers for prices----Tom >>
I happen to prefer the 1/4 oz size, but you take a bigger beating on the upfront premium. You might find 1oz eagles at 5% over melt (maybe even less), but quarters are 10% over on a good day and up from there, unless you can find a good deal here or there.
Perry, I love the look of .999 fine! And much like Weiss, the VAST majority of my gold is in that form. But there is something to be said about actually touching your gold, and I wouldnt dream of handling a maple leaf or panda raw except with kid gloves. Im able to stack a pile of AGE's though and hold a bunch in my hand at one time with no fear of scratching the hell out of them. Just an observation.
<< <i>Gold Eagles or Maple Leafs and why, thanks in advance---Tom >>
Why didn't you include Gold Buffalo's as an option?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Buy the lower mintage First Spouse gold coins for as close to melt as you can. Much more interesting and have much more potential for long-term numismatic appreciation than the boring gold eagle bullion coins. The Washington and the Adams can regularly be found for near melt prices, but occasionally you can find the lower mintage coins that came after for melt as well.
<< <i>Gold Eagles or Maple Leafs and why, thanks in advance---Tom >>
Why didn't you include Gold Buffalo's as an option? >>
Good question, they just slipped my mind so one more option added thanks >>
Are the premiums over melt for the buffalos comparable to the AGE's?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Comments
You just have to be careful on the premiums!
--Severian the Lame
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<< <i>Gold Eagles or Maple Leafs >>
YES!!!
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Lets say you are in a bind and need 500 bucks.
Well if you had 1 oz gold coin you would have to sell that whole ozer just to get the 500 bucks that you need. You sell that gold and now you don't own anymore except some cash.
However if you had 4 1/4 ozers, you could sell 2 of them and still have 1/2 of physical gold.
Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
<< <i>I like the better durability of the .916 gold as opposed to .999. >>
You prefer gold contaminated with copper more than pure gold?
I'm kidding, of course.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Gold with a very small alloy of copper or copper/silver is simply much, much more durable than pure gold.
Now there is a balance. American jewelry, for example, at 14k gold or roughly 58% pure is a total rip-off. There is simply no reason for that kind of watering down.
But the fact is that krugerrands are legal tender and are, or were, made to be spent. Just as all American gold coins were originally designed to do, and every other gold coin for the last 1000 years until the 20th century.
I understand the arguments in favor of pure gold. And I have more .999 gold than any other recipe. But there really is something to be said for having gold that can take a beating.
--Severian the Lame
For my collection, I keep up to date on the 1 troy ounce China Panda gold.
They're US mint issued and can be purchased at little or no premium over melt.
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/gold/liberty-head-2-1-gold-major-sets/liberty-head-2-1-gold-basic-set-circulation-strikes-1840-1907-cac/alltimeset/268163
<< <i>So after reading all your thoughts on this I'm seeing that it would be better to buy a mix of 1/4/ to 1oz and not just the 1oz like I was planning. Weiss you make some good points but these will be stored and seldom handled purely investment. Now to find a place to buy I'll check some of the larger sellers for prices----Tom >>
I happen to prefer the 1/4 oz size, but you take a bigger beating on the upfront premium. You might find 1oz eagles at 5% over melt (maybe even less), but quarters are 10% over on a good day and up from there, unless you can find a good deal here or there.
Perry, I love the look of .999 fine! And much like Weiss, the VAST majority of my gold is in that form. But there is something to be said about actually touching your gold, and I wouldnt dream of handling a maple leaf or panda raw except with kid gloves. Im able to stack a pile of AGE's though and hold a bunch in my hand at one time with no fear of scratching the hell out of them. Just an observation.
Coin's for sale/trade.
Tom Pilitowski
US Rare Coin Investments
800-624-1870
<< <i>Gold Eagles or Maple Leafs and why, thanks in advance---Tom >>
Why didn't you include Gold Buffalo's as an option?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>US gold coins; the dirtier the better.
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<< <i>
<< <i>Gold Eagles or Maple Leafs and why, thanks in advance---Tom >>
Why didn't you include Gold Buffalo's as an option? >>
Good question, they just slipped my mind so one more option added thanks
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>Gold Eagles or Maple Leafs and why, thanks in advance---Tom >>
Why didn't you include Gold Buffalo's as an option? >>
Good question, they just slipped my mind so one more option added thanks >>
Are the premiums over melt for the buffalos comparable to the AGE's?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire