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American Eagle Silver Dollar Question?
mmcfadden
Posts: 41
I am a card collector not a coin collector and I want to purchase the graded American Eagle Silver Dollars from 1986 to current just because I like them. What does the "S" "P" and "W" mean? Is one better than the other and finally which grading company is better to have your coins in?
Thank you,
Michael
Thank you,
Michael
0
Comments
Originally, only the PROOF versions were mintmarked. S (San Francisco) originally, then P (Philidelphia), finally PROOFs were made in W (Westpoint).
Later (2006) uncs were made in special collectors versions with mintmarks (W).
Here's a link to an eBay auction of a complete set of ASE in a Dansco to give you an idea of what it would look like.
Dansco is a type of album, btw.
I just don't know why you would want $17 coins in a $20 slab.
<< <i>LINK to Dansco Albums
I just don't know why you would want $17 coins in a $20 slab. >>
If you buy PROOFs, you might want to buy them either in original government packaging (OGP) or slabbed by PCGS or NGC as they will discolour in a Dansco album (in my opinion, not attractively). The uncs can be placed easily into the dansco album and will attain an attractive beige then later other colours.
What I've seen of PROOFs in dansco is they look putrid.
<< <i>Dansco album? Remember I am new to this stuff, and why raw wouldn't graded be better? >>
To address the "wouldn;t graded be better?",
Its obvious you are new and being new you are at the mercy of others over what the true value is, of what you are purchasing. All kinds of prices exist for the graded versions of these coins but the reality is that they are merely Silver Bullion. Every one of them will grade between MS68 and MS70 and the MS70 coins will set you back at least $75 to $500 depending upon the coin.
Given that, my opinion is that it would be best for you to purchase the coins raw, from either a coin show or a local dealer where you can inspect the coins. That way you'll be spending just a bit over melt value for each one. At the same time, you can become familiar with the coins and how readily available most of them are.
Some of the more expensive raw coins are the 1996 (for whatever reason), the 2008 Reverse of 07 (for obvious reasons - low mintage) and any of the Uncirculated W coins beginning in 2006.
Other than that, you can pick these up for less than $20 each. A Dansco album is a very nice way to keep track of and display these.
Start slow. It'll save you a lot of money.
The name is LEE!
or do a date run with bullion coins only.
PR=proof (mirrored finish)
UN=uncirculated (non mirrored)
Also, start blast white and make sure they don't have milk spots.
If you decide to start going toned, you will likely pay a little more.
I would also add the "W" bullion coins (just how I do it since we have 2 sets of the raw SAEs) as I think they below with the "normal" uncs.
Gotta say, I like the reverse proofs...
Naturally toned coins can look cool, or ugly, and are almost always unique in their look.
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
K
<< <i>I have a Unc set in a Dansco and although yes, it is modern bullion coinage and the coins will most likely never be rare I have enjoyed collecting and keeping up with the set. It is the highest grade set of anything I have and I enjoy having at least one complete set of something!
K >>
I think I agree with this sentiment. Mine is nothing special, some are toning ugly, others not so bad and actually a bit nicely, but I really enjoy it and like adding new dates to it each year.