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POLL: Slab or no slab

1Mike11Mike1 Posts: 4,442 ✭✭✭✭✭
I like the idea of having my coins authenticated, graded and somewhat protected from further environmental damage. The price guide helps me to follow the trends in value and if it ever comes to my family members having to sell them off they will understand the value of the coins and can use the knowledge to keep the playing field level.
"May the silver waves that bear you heavenward be filled with love’s whisperings"

"A dog breaks your heart only one time and that is when they pass on". Unknown

Comments

  • RampageRampage Posts: 9,645 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I like the idea of having my coins authenticated, graded and somewhat protected from further environmental damage. The price guide helps me to follow the trends in value and if it ever comes to my family members having to sell them off they will understand the value of the coins and can use the knowledge to keep the playing field level. >>



    To answer your question-it depends on what you have. If you have coins would several hundred or thousands of dollars, then slab them. If you have simple generic widgets, then keep them raw, because the grading fee will not make up for the price differences, such as MS62, 63 Morgans.
  • I am not against slabbing but prefer my coins raw because the edge is as important for study as either obverse or reverse; also my coins are circulated and don't need the protection of a slab as would high grade coins. For these coins grade is only important for assistance in determining value as opposed to ranking in a registry set.
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I like the idea of having my coins authenticated, graded and somewhat protected from further environmental damage. The price guide helps me to follow the trends in value and if it ever comes to my family members having to sell them off they will understand the value of the coins and can use the knowledge to keep the playing field level. >>



    I think that you are overstating the value of the price guide, especially as it relates to your family understanding the value of your coins in the event of your unexpected demise. I spreadsheet listing your coins, how much you paid for them, and where you purchased them, would serve them better.

    I have slabbed coins and raw coins, but of the slabbed coins, I have bought very few raw and slabbed them myself. Coins I purchase raw tend to stay that way. The exception would be coins valued over $1000 or so.
  • garsmithgarsmith Posts: 5,894 ✭✭
    Mine are about 30% slabbed, 70% raw
  • LindeDadLindeDad Posts: 18,766 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Many of mine are not worth the cost of slabbing, but then again I have over 600 slabed coins to.
    Is the coin worth the cost of slabbing is the question? Or just let them spend the money you saved?
    image
    image
    Oh what to do on a Sunday morning?
    image
  • Many would suggest slabbing those worth more than a certain dollar amount. Many would have a different number in mind. I would suggest $300 in Redbook or similar guide value. It is likely that is more like $200 to $250 in real value, and that is if your grading is close.

    Sadly, even with slabbed coins, many heirs are still going to take them down to the nearest pawn shop and get 10% of real value. Best to hope for someone younger to take a real interest in the hobby and leave the entire collection to them. If not, then someone who knows Ebay inside and out and leave some instructions about how to find out current valuations and how to sell them. Another option is to sell the expensive coins yourself, when you get the feeling you have been cleared for "final approach" for the big airport in the sky.


  • FairlanemanFairlaneman Posts: 10,427 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is no set limit on how much a coin should cost, or did cost, when sending it in for slabbing. The factor that enters in is how much the coin will be worth after it is slabbed. Right now I have a coin that cost 2 bucks at PCGS. If it comes back like I think it will just multiply the 2 bucks by 100 and that is what it will be worth. If it comes back in the worst case situation it will be worth 30 to 40 bucks and the plastic has made the coin a push. Like they say its sort of a crap shoot that is fun to play sometimes.

    Slabbing coins for protection is worthwhile but in most cases if it is a widget you never recoup your money so why slab it? The coin made it this far and if you take care of the coin correctly the plastic does nothing for it.

    Ken
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If it is protection you want for the coins, slab them yourself.... easy enough. If it is value, only do the truly expensive ones.... the more money you put into a coin, the less the return - so calculate carefully. Coins are not the best investment, I choose to enjoy my hobby and work my financial interests elsewhere. Cheers, RickO
  • mozinmozin Posts: 8,755 ✭✭✭
    My entire collection of US coins is encapsulated. I think any coin worth $100 or more at least deserves the ANACS holder.
    I collect Capped Bust series by variety in PCGS AU/MS grades.
  • 1Mike11Mike1 Posts: 4,442 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I like the idea of having my coins authenticated, graded and somewhat protected from further environmental damage. The price guide helps me to follow the trends in value and if it ever comes to my family members having to sell them off they will understand the value of the coins and can use the knowledge to keep the playing field level. >>



    Updated with a requested answer option.
    "May the silver waves that bear you heavenward be filled with love’s whisperings"

    "A dog breaks your heart only one time and that is when they pass on". Unknown
  • BochimanBochiman Posts: 25,789 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I like the idea of having my coins authenticated, graded and somewhat protected from further environmental damage. The price guide helps me to follow the trends in value and if it ever comes to my family members having to sell them off they will understand the value of the coins and can use the knowledge to keep the playing field level. >>



    To answer your question-it depends on what you have. If you have coins would several hundred or thousands of dollars, then slab them. If you have simple generic widgets, then keep them raw, because the grading fee will not make up for the price differences, such as MS62, 63 Morgans. >>




    I agree and, for me, this is where "self-slabbing" comes in. I have coins not worth much that I want protected in a slab. I would NOT pay the $14+ to get that done, but, with a self-slab, I have been able to do that. They store nicely, are easy to use to show people and not worry about damage, and, imho, they look kinda neat (can do own labels, etc).

    I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment

  • BECOKABECOKA Posts: 16,961 ✭✭✭
    If you somehow pass on and your family has to decide a method to dispose of your collection you are best off slabbing anything that is worth an amount that 1 or 2 grades is significant. This will be more difficult for a dealer or auction house to stiff them.

    Anything only worth a few dollars like a mint set should only be slabbed if that is how you want to store them in your collection, otherwise it is not worth it.
  • slincslinc Posts: 480 ✭✭
    I have quite a few coins i've been planning on getting graded, pretty much coins in the $2-400 range that i think could grade pretty well unfortunately though so far everytime i set aside some cash to get things graded i just buy more coins.
  • BECOKABECOKA Posts: 16,961 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I have quite a few coins i've been planning on getting graded, pretty much coins in the $2-400 range that i think could grade pretty well unfortunately though so far everytime i set aside some cash to get things graded i just buy more coins. >>



    So just prep them and mail them to PCGS and the next time you save up for it you can pay off that credit card. image
  • derrybderryb Posts: 38,545 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The biggest advantage of slabbing (with the top two TPGs) is that the coin is certifed as authentic. To me the grade is secondary.

    Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.

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