Buy them unslabbed in the original Mint packaging. They are often 69s naturally and the original Mint pack ones will be so uncommon later on that they will be much more desirable than any TPG holdered 69 is my prediction. 70s are to be avoided as secondary market buys. I cannot believe they will sustain their following and will lose a fair percentage of their current values. But anyone can guess and who can honestly predict something with no historical trend data of note in an open-ended problem like this. I see 70s are dangerous with a lot of risk. Certainly not a basket to park a lot of your eggs in.
<< <i>I still can't tell (the majority of the time) what the difference between a 69 and a 70 coin is after it has been slabbed. So, for me, I guess right now I don't have any business buying coins graded 70 unless I just want to buy the plastic for a registry set or something. >>
I'm not trying to diss you here jess but the problem you have in not being able to distinguish between a 69 and a 70 is exactly the same scenario as between a 60 and a 61! Or a 61 and a 62.
I don;t think anybody can accurate distinguish the differences which is where the subjectivity of grading comes into play.
I decided to change calling the bathroom the John and renamed it the Jim. I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.
Lee, When it is said that most people can't tell the difference between a 69 and a 70 that is probably true. Most people can't tell the difference between a 64 and a 65 either. I think those making the statment are trying to imply that they can tell the difference between a grade point on a classic but all they really have is an opinion. There are a few members here who are clearly good graders and if they took the time to learn moderns they could grade them too. But most people making the argument wouldn't want to learn to grade moderns anyway. --Jerry
<< <i><< Are the premiums that 70's currently enjoy over the 69's going to hold forever >> No. In the vast majority of cases, the quickest way to lose your ass is to buy the PR/MS70's right after they hit. With few exceptions, they always go down in value. Russ, NCNE >> You mean like the PR70 DCAM gold buffalos that I sold to several forum members for $1599? That was up from the $1400 they were selling for in the summer...and now they're $1800+. >>
If you're going to attempt to make some kind of point, you probably ought to select a coin whose underlying precious metal content hasn't dramatically risen in value since last summer. Russ, NCNE >>
Russ, I chose that example because there are members here reading this thread who are very happy with their purchases 3 weeks ago and gold hasn't gone up that much, especially in the time since these forum members bought. but lets look at base metals then. How about copper coated zinc?
2007 MS69 SF Lincolns. The P sold for $40 when it first came out. now they're $150. The Ds sold early for $100 now they're $400 to $500+.
When I had a Registry type set, I started out with three PCGS PR70 DCAM coins- a clad quarter, Kennedy half, and SBA dollar. Some of these were in OGH slabs. I had bought them in 1998 or '99 off Teletrade for like $45-50 apiece. (I think the SBA cost me $75).
At the prices I paid, the 70 coins were worth the small premium for that tiny, invisible grade point and the accompanying "boost" to my Registry score.
However, when I saw what prices on 70s were doing after the Registry came along, greed soon got the best of me and I sold my 70-graded coins for four or five times what I'd paid. I had no regrets in doing so- I promptly bought PR69 DCAM coins that looked just about as nice to me, and pocketed the profit.
If you pay for 70s, you are buying the plastic. Period. There is nothing wrong with that if you choose to do so- it's up to you to decide how much premium that one grade point is worth. You just need to remember that not everyone will feel the same way.
To me, when the 70-coins rose into three figure pricetags (and more, in some cases), I left the market behind for greener pastures. 70-plastic is worth a modest premium to me, but not THAT much.
Was there a noticeable difference between my PR70 DCAMs and the PR69 DCAMs I replaced them with? Not too much. I will say that the OGH PR70 DCAM 1986-S quarter I sold had the thickest, whitest, caked-on frost I have ever seen on a proof coin, though. The black and white contrast on it was pretty unreal looking.
Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.
<< <i> Was there a noticeable difference between my PR70 DCAMs and the PR69 DCAMs I replaced them with? Not too much. I will say that the OGH PR70 DCAM 1986-S quarter I sold had the thickest, whitest, caked-on frost I have ever seen on a proof coin, though. The black and white contrast on it was pretty unreal looking. >>
I would stick with 69's, unless I was able to snag a 70 for way less than current market. Having had many of both, there is a difference, when put side by side, quaility wise . May also consider future resale price. Would wait for price to come down for the newer issue ones. And may go without saying, but stick with PCGS. Will the 70 demand fade away? No telling. Few people,compared to population, are into coins but always many new people coming to hobby and many will want the "best", for their collections.
<< <i>If you pay for 70s, you are buying the plastic. Period. There is nothing wrong with that if you choose to do so- it's up to you to decide how much premium that one grade point is worth. You just need to remember that not everyone will feel the same way.
To me, when the 70-coins rose into three figure pricetags (and more, in some cases), I left the market behind for greener pastures. 70-plastic is worth a modest premium to me, but not THAT much. >>
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<< <i>I still can't tell (the majority of the time) what the difference between a 69 and a 70 coin is after it has been slabbed. So, for me, I guess right now I don't have any business buying coins graded 70 unless I just want to buy the plastic for a registry set or something. >>
I'm not trying to diss you here jess but the problem you have in not being able to distinguish between a 69 and a 70 is exactly the same scenario as between a 60 and a 61!
Or a 61 and a 62.
I don;t think anybody can accurate distinguish the differences which is where the subjectivity of grading comes into play.
The name is LEE!
When it is said that most people can't tell the difference between a 69 and a 70 that is probably true. Most people can't tell the difference between a 64 and a 65 either. I think those making the statment are trying to imply that they can tell the difference between a grade point on a classic but all they really have is an opinion. There are a few members here who are clearly good graders and if they took the time to learn moderns they could grade them too. But most people making the argument wouldn't want to learn to grade moderns anyway. --Jerry
<< <i>
<< <i><< Are the premiums that 70's currently enjoy over the 69's going to hold forever >> No. In the vast majority of cases, the quickest way to lose your ass is to buy the PR/MS70's right after they hit. With few exceptions, they always go down in value. Russ, NCNE >> You mean like the PR70 DCAM gold buffalos that I sold to several forum members for $1599? That was up from the $1400 they were selling for in the summer...and now they're $1800+. >>
If you're going to attempt to make some kind of point, you probably ought to select a coin whose underlying precious metal content hasn't dramatically risen in value since last summer. Russ, NCNE >>
Russ, I chose that example because there are members here reading this thread who are very happy with their purchases 3 weeks ago and gold hasn't gone up that much, especially in the time since these forum members bought. but lets look at base metals then. How about copper coated zinc?
2007 MS69 SF Lincolns.
The P sold for $40 when it first came out. now they're $150.
The Ds sold early for $100 now they're $400 to $500+.
--jerry
At the prices I paid, the 70 coins were worth the small premium for that tiny, invisible grade point and the accompanying "boost" to my Registry score.
However, when I saw what prices on 70s were doing after the Registry came along, greed soon got the best of me and I sold my 70-graded coins for four or five times what I'd paid. I had no regrets in doing so- I promptly bought PR69 DCAM coins that looked just about as nice to me, and pocketed the profit.
If you pay for 70s, you are buying the plastic. Period. There is nothing wrong with that if you choose to do so- it's up to you to decide how much premium that one grade point is worth. You just need to remember that not everyone will feel the same way.
To me, when the 70-coins rose into three figure pricetags (and more, in some cases), I left the market behind for greener pastures. 70-plastic is worth a modest premium to me, but not THAT much.
Was there a noticeable difference between my PR70 DCAMs and the PR69 DCAMs I replaced them with? Not too much. I will say that the OGH PR70 DCAM 1986-S quarter I sold had the thickest, whitest, caked-on frost I have ever seen on a proof coin, though. The black and white contrast on it was pretty unreal looking.
Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.
<< <i> Was there a noticeable difference between my PR70 DCAMs and the PR69 DCAMs I replaced them with? Not too much. I will say that the OGH PR70 DCAM 1986-S quarter I sold had the thickest, whitest, caked-on frost I have ever seen on a proof coin, though. The black and white contrast on it was pretty unreal looking. >>
Sounds like you should have kept that one.
<< <i>If you pay for 70s, you are buying the plastic. Period. There is nothing wrong with that if you choose to do so- it's up to you to decide how much premium that one grade point is worth. You just need to remember that not everyone will feel the same way.
To me, when the 70-coins rose into three figure pricetags (and more, in some cases), I left the market behind for greener pastures. 70-plastic is worth a modest premium to me, but not THAT much. >>