PICS From Grandfathers Collection!
Bthiet
Posts: 126
Help me with these please. My grandfather has his grades for these written down, i want to see what you all think so i can get a good idea as to his grading standards. So just play grade the coin and i will then let you all know how my grandfather had graded them. The only coins i have with me now are all the lincoln cents, buffalo head nickels and some other misc. coins. If you would like to see a specific coin let me know and i will post a pic.
Link to the photos:
Pics
Link to the photos:
Pics
0
Comments
I don't know the buff nicks, so I won't comment there other than to say nice color and what looks like luster
I will give 2 bits of advice.....
1) If you are careful, wear cotton gloves, hold the coin by the sides, etc, it would be better for your pics to do it outside of the holder.
2) You are using regular staples....either get the flat staples or use (carefully!) a pair of grips/pliers to flatten the backs of the staples.....and, no matter what, be careful when putting these together. Many nice (and $$$ ) coins have been damaged (and lost their values) due to staple scratches from the holders of other coins.
Looking forward to seeing more pics
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Check out my current listings: https://ebay.com/sch/khunt/m.html?_ipg=200&_sop=12&_rdc=1
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
<< <i>The 1931-S Buffalo looks MS. The 1925-S Buffalo is actually a 1925 and this makes an enormous difference in price, but it also looks MS. The 1914-D Lincoln appears to have been previously cleaned, but would otherwise grade G6. The 1913-S Buffalo looks to be VF. The 1909-S VDB Lincoln looks to be VG8 if genuine. >>
Except I think t 09-S VDB is nicer (VG10-F12)-- I see all the lines in the wheat stalks and Lincoln's ear looks to be outlined. "If genuine" still applies, though.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
<< <i>How can you tell that coin has been cleaned? >>
The color is all wrong.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Greg
ANACS slab that many people would love to have to fill the hole
in their album.
the buffs look nice but i do not know enough to comment.
1909-S VDB VG-8
Rob
"Those guys weren't Fathers they were...Mothers."
<< <i>if that 1909S vdb is real, it is an easy 500 and up coin in an >>
You haven't seen the ebay prices of the S-VDB's lately on ebay then...I'd say an easy $750 and up in a slab. I agree with the grades given except for the VDB, it looks just like my F example in an Anacs slab- except for the woodgraining on reverse. I see a well defined ear on obverse.
The 25-P Buffalo (not an S) looks like a solid MS65.
WTB: Barber Quarters XF
<< <i>Bump for the morning crowd, we also need more pictures of the buffs, >>
Agreed!
Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
<< <i>Are those buffs worth grading? I have a lot of the non key dates in that condition. >>
Assuming the Buffs could go MS65, then yes. I'd say scarcer dates in MS64 are definitely worth grading.
PCGS ECONOMY (Non-Gold, 5 coins min.) is only $18 per coin.
Good question, and dilemma many people face. The trade off's and considerations:
The pro's - will probably make them more marketable, and may get a higher price.
The cons - figure the cost at ~$25 or more per coin, assuming you're sticking with PCGS, which is a good chunk since you are referring to the 'non keys'. Also consider the time (economy submission, ~4 weeks, others here can comment on price and length of time, since it's been nearly a year since I've submitted anything). Another factor - if most or all of them come back at the high end of expectations, great, but probably not likely. To put it another way - say you have a great looking buff, common or slightly better date, that at least a few people grade MS64, and would pay close to MS64 money for. You send it in, pay $25 or so, wait a month, and it comes back in an MS62 or 63 holder. Now probably no one would pay close to 64 money for it, unless it an obvious misgrade. It's not worth cracking out and sending back in, your out $25, and will now only likely get MS62 money for it.
Summary - if you had key dates like this, no brainer, send them in. Maybe even higher end semi keys. Common dates and lower or moderate grade semikeys, may not be worth it.
Greg
Some coins are worth more certified than not. Frequently counterfeited coins, like the '09-S VDB for example, are worth certifying. Other coins I just figure on what they would sell for raw and what they would sell for certified. If the difference is more than, say, $40 I would send them in. I thought the minimum # of coins for economy is 10 but I haven't done and order in a while...
<< <i>thanks. As a general guide, is there a certain price that if a coin is over it you will get it graded (if it hasn't been graded already)? Just wondering >>
For me, unless it has toning that I think I could get a premium for if slabbed, or is a key date, or frequently counterfeited, or over $100 (sometimes not even then, depends on the coin and the market for that coin), then I slab.
I will also slab if I want to protect the coin and I like it for sentimental reasons (I could do the self-slab, and have on some, but sometimes I just want the TPG) and if I want to test my grading against that service (did that with both PCGS and ANACS so far).
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment