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$$$ important wheat cents $$$

tcmitssrtcmitssr Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭
I've got 30 plus unopened for over 20 (maybe 30) years, wheat penny rolls. Checking dates are not my thing but since I'm home on medical leave for a while...what the heck.

Besides the obvious 1909 svdb, what are the wheats that even in lower grades are worth some bucks if I find them and want to sell them? I'm very confident these rolls were not cherry picked.

Someone told me a 1922 without a mint mark has a good ROI and the very first roll I opened had 1 of them.

If there are 5 to 10 keys that in XF say, really can mean some coin, please let me know.

Thanks!

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    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1914 D... Cheers, RickO
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    itsnotjustmeitsnotjustme Posts: 8,788 ✭✭✭
    Best of luck, as 20 - 30 years ago the keys were the same as today. In addition to the 1909-S V.D.B., are these--those with ** are the real money makers.

    1909 V.D.B.
    1909-S **
    1910-S
    1911-D
    1911-S
    1912-D
    1912-S
    1913-D
    1913-S
    1914-D **
    1914-S
    1922 (No Mint Mark) **
    1922-D
    1924-D
    1931-D
    1931-S **
    Give Blood (Red Bags) & Platelets (Yellow Bags)!
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    1909-S & 1931-S

    I would just work on filling two books with the best grades and then hold onto to the 20'S and before.
    First get the knowledge, then the coins.

    imageimage
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    image
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    RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Someone told me a 1922 without a mint mark has a good ROI and the very first roll I opened had 1 of them. >>



    Check it carefully, as a lot of these have been faked.

    Russ, NCNE
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    tcmitssrtcmitssr Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Best of luck, as 20 - 30 years ago the keys were the same as today. In addition to the 1909-S V.D.B., are these--those with ** are the real money makers.

    1909 V.D.B.
    1909-S **
    1910-S
    1911-D
    1911-S
    1912-D
    1912-S
    1913-D
    1913-S
    1914-D **
    1914-S
    1922 (No Mint Mark) **
    1922-D
    1924-D
    1931-D
    1931-S ** >>



    Re the ones with the ** - what do they mean? I know I have, at least one 1922 without a mint mark (I'd say XF).

    Thanks again.
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    tcmitssrtcmitssr Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Someone told me a 1922 without a mint mark has a good ROI and the very first roll I opened had 1 of them. >>



    Check it carefully, as a lot of these have been faked.

    Russ, NCNE >>



    Faked, how so big guy?

    Thanks.
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    fastrudyfastrudy Posts: 2,096
    either you take a 1922-D and remove the mint mark, or you could take a 1942 and form the '4' into a '2'.image
    Successful transactions with: DCarr, Meltdown, Notwilight, Loki, MMR, Musky1011, cohodk, claychaser, cheezhed, guitarwes, Hayden, USMoneyLover

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    If you have the time and a good magnifying glass or loupe check out www.coppercoins.com and check for varieties also. Some of them carry a nice price tag.
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    itsnotjustmeitsnotjustme Posts: 8,788 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Re the ones with the ** - what do they mean? >>

    those with ** are the real money makers.
    Give Blood (Red Bags) & Platelets (Yellow Bags)!
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    RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭


    << <i><< Someone told me a 1922 without a mint mark has a good ROI and the very first roll I opened had 1 of them. >>

    Check it carefully, as a lot of these have been faked.

    Russ, NCNE >>

    Faked, how so big guy? >>



    See Fastrudy's post. Removed mintmark or altered date.

    Russ, NCNE
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    anoldgoatanoldgoat Posts: 1,493 ✭✭✭
    The 1915 in XF or above is hard to find.

    Mike
    Alright! Who removed the cork from my lunch?

    W.C. Fields
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    pb2ypb2y Posts: 1,461
    The 1922 no D is often touted as a variety coin or a type coin.
    They have been faked from day one. During the 1970s they were everywhere and all fakes.
    Many fakes were certified, graded and slabed by the emerging grading services in the 1980s.
    It is simply an over rated Error coin and has no place in a pure Lincoln Collection.


    image
    image

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    tcmitssrtcmitssr Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭


    << <i>The 1915 in XF or above is hard to find.

    Mike >>



    Saw one of those in the first (only yet) unopened roll, as well.
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    LeeGLeeG Posts: 12,162
    You'll do pretty good on just about any "S" or "D" mint coin from 09-30.
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    tcmitssrtcmitssr Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭


    << <i>You'll do pretty good on just about any "S" or "D" mint coin from 09-30. >>



    Do these, most likely in XF (very few AU), if I have them...need to be certified to bring in a reasonable amount or should I leave them raw?

    Thanks!

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    itsnotjustmeitsnotjustme Posts: 8,788 ✭✭✭
    If your coins are XF, you need to get to the late 1920s before any one is worth less than a dollar.
    Give Blood (Red Bags) & Platelets (Yellow Bags)!
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    tightbudgettightbudget Posts: 7,299 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>You'll do pretty good on just about any "S" or "D" mint coin from 09-30. >>



    Do these, most likely in XF (very few AU), if I have them...need to be certified to bring in a reasonable amount or should I leave them raw?

    Thanks! >>



    Raw...unless it's like an MS or a key date.
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    ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,669 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Do these, most likely in XF (very few AU), if I have them...need to be certified to bring in a reasonable amount or should I leave them raw? >>

    Except for key dates where authenticity is often in question, these are fine raw. Slabbing any XF Lincoln wheaties other than '09-S, '09-S VDB, '14-D, '22 (NMM), '55 DDO and perhaps '31-S is likely not worth it.

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