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POLL: Do you buy problem coins, or un-messed-with coins, or both?

I buy them both, if I like what I see, as long as I know a problem coin is a problem coin.
Here is my definition of problem coins, and it could any one, or combo, or all of these: holed, corroded, tooled, plugs, scrubbed, dipped, AT, colorized(image), scratched, graffitied, general damage, puttied(image), plus others............

Edited to add more problems.

Comments

  • mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    I try to avoid problems (not always successful)
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
  • saintgurusaintguru Posts: 7,727 ✭✭✭
    Dude....like being married isn't enough of a problem, mess or both? image
    image
  • mozinmozin Posts: 8,755 ✭✭✭
    If the major grading services body bag a coin, I don't want it.
    I collect Capped Bust series by variety in PCGS AU/MS grades.
  • LongacreLongacre Posts: 16,717 ✭✭✭
    I buy unmessed with coins. My dealer tells me they're unmessed with.
    Always took candy from strangers
    Didn't wanna get me no trade
    Never want to be like papa
    Working for the boss every night and day
    --"Happy", by the Rolling Stones (1972)
  • BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,516 ✭✭✭✭✭
    if someone holed a capped bust half dime and then whizzed it and cleaned it and then AT'd the thing AND it was R-7+ die marriage, I would buy it. Please make offers.
  • ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭
    I don't think "problem" and "unmessed with" are exact opposites. There's some overlap and some disconnect.

    There are some "messed with" coins that I don't think are really "problem coins". And there are "unmessed with" coins that have problems.

    Having said that, I don't buy coins that I consider "problem" coins. I recognize that some people may have a more rigid definition of "problem coin" that automatically includes (say) a light dipping, but I don't necessarily.
  • StrikeOutXXXStrikeOutXXX Posts: 3,352 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>If the major grading services body bag a coin, I don't want it. >>



    I'll agree with you 99% of the time. The only exception that comes to mind would be for one of my kids' whitmans - If I can get a $2,000 coin that was BB'd but still fairly presentable for $20 to fill the hole, it's there - they can upgrade themselves when they get older image
    ------------------------------------------------------------

    "You Suck Award" - February, 2015

    Discoverer of 1919 Mercury Dime DDO - FS-101
  • ERER Posts: 7,345


    << <i>If the major grading services body bag a coin, I don't want it. >>


    Really? You let a TPG make up your mind for you?
  • CladiatorCladiator Posts: 18,256 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Both. I have more than a couple R5 and R6 coins that the general collecting public would call "problem" coins.
  • lathmachlathmach Posts: 4,720
    I buy rare and semi-rare coins.
    If the coin is rare enough, no problem is too bad.

    Ray
  • StrikeOutXXXStrikeOutXXX Posts: 3,352 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>If the major grading services body bag a coin, I don't want it. >>


    Really? You let a TPG make up your mind for you? >>




    I do for the most part at this point in my collecting. I'm still using the rule we always quote of until you can grade yourself reliably or spot counterfeit/altered coins - buy from PCGS/NGC and sometimes ANACS/IGC.

    I'm not at the point yet where I can argue much with them.
    ------------------------------------------------------------

    "You Suck Award" - February, 2015

    Discoverer of 1919 Mercury Dime DDO - FS-101
  • problem free - although I have made mistakes
  • Steve27Steve27 Posts: 13,275 ✭✭✭
    I like problem coins for my raw type set.
    "It's far easier to fight for principles, than to live up to them." Adlai Stevenson
  • LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Older bust stuff, I'll buy even if it's goofed with under certain circumstances, newer stuff (Seated Lib and later) I try to avoid the goofed with look!
  • BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,516 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I like problem coins for my raw type set. >>


    For my Dansco 7070, I select no-problem coins.
  • NumisOxideNumisOxide Posts: 11,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I voted both.

    I try to avoid buying problem coins but I do buy them. It depends on the type of problem the coin has. If it's a really beat up coin with a whole bunch of severe scratches and digs, whizzed, badly corroded, puttied then no.

    If it's cleaned, dipped, scratched, counterstamped then yes. It also depends on the location of the problem. It's a case by case thing. The coin would have to be evaluated and considered by me. If I think the problem won't bother me I buy. Also, problem coins are cheaper to buy then problem free coins but some people say there hard to sell.

    I won't buy any modern problem coin though just classics.
  • shirohniichanshirohniichan Posts: 4,992 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I buy rare and semi-rare coins.
    If the coin is rare enough, no problem is too bad.

    Ray >>



    Yea, verily.

    If you can't find a problem-free example at any price, but a problem one and keep looking.
    image
    Obscurum per obscurius
  • mozinmozin Posts: 8,755 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>If the major grading services body bag a coin, I don't want it. >>


    Really? You let a TPG make up your mind for you? >>



    Yes, I do. I want ALL my coins encapsulated. Over many years, I had my fill of trying to get the grading services to encapsulate at the correct grades. No more submissions for me, I will leave that hassle to others. When comes time to sell my collection, it will be easy to ship it off to the auction house.
    I collect Capped Bust series by variety in PCGS AU/MS grades.
  • DNADaveDNADave Posts: 7,308 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Both
    image
    image
  • bidaskbidask Posts: 14,031 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have made too many mistakes in the past buying problem coins for non problem prices. I have just told myself to just say no to problem coins to protect myself. Its tough enough to filter through the ones that are slabbed and supposedly not problem.
    I manage money. I earn money. I save money .
    I give away money. I collect money.
    I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.




  • MyqqyMyqqy Posts: 9,777
    Most problem coins just don't make me happy when I look at them..... but I can see being a bit more liberal with certain bust half issues......
    My style is impetuous, my defense is impregnable !
  • TorinoCobra71TorinoCobra71 Posts: 8,063 ✭✭✭
    Neither, RedNecker! image

    TorinoCobra71

    image
  • I try to avoid them... but many times when an R.5+ comes up, even if it's got problems, I'm gonna jump on it... I was offered an R.7 by another collector (Probally actually an R.6++++ now) for a decent price... but it was expensive to me, so I hesitated about saying yes, but when I came back to say Yes, it had already been sold to another collector...
    -George
    42/92
  • stmanstman Posts: 11,352 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Old circulated Bust material, and more-so tough dates I'll put up with a so-called problem. The thing is as I see on here, many folks seem to think a toned in scratch or a dig is a "Problem." These things circulated and are expected to show just that.... circulation. Yes it's nice to find a completely smooth old circulated Bust half, but it ain't easy. For those that think the services bag these "problem" type of coins, I might suggest you get out more often

    They slab 'em with much more "Problems" then I have mentioned. I actually love when folks will only buy 'Perfect" coins from the slab farms.
    Truth be known, many of the remaining nice ones that come to market have stayed raw. (But ya didn't hear that from me)
    Please... Save The Stories, Just Answer My Questions, And Tell Me How Much!!!!!
  • ERER Posts: 7,345
    You found it!image
  • robertprrobertpr Posts: 6,862 ✭✭✭
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with problem coins so long as

    • They're either in a holder denoting as such, or the condition is fully disclosed by the seller.

    • It is understood their market value is far below a non-problem piece, as is the liquidity.

    image
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,843 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Over the course of my time as a collector, (more than 45 years) I have purchased a few problem coins on purpose. When I was completing my type set, I got “type set fatigue.” I really wanted to have one of everything; I was getting tired of all those coins with arrows that cost a lot; and my budget was getting wrung out. So I bought a few coins that were AT and one that had light graffiti in the fields. Over time I’ve been upgrading those and selling off the losers. I have no trouble selling the losers because I know some dealers who trade in them, and by in large I’ve made money on the transactions.

    Today I don’t buy problems coins for me, and I don’t buy them for the business unless they are dirt-cheap. You can make money on problem coins, and there are collectors want them for the same reason I did years ago. It’s just a matter of being honest about what they are.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • 09sVDB09sVDB Posts: 2,420 ✭✭✭
    I try to buy unmessed with but sometimes that doesn't work so I have to vote for "both."
  • LeianaLeiana Posts: 4,349
    I try to buy coins that don't have major problems. Small things on circulated pieces are the norm and do not bother me, they just are "used" you know? But when someone intentionally does something to a coin, then I no longer view it as okay in most instances. MS coins, now, should be very nice with no problems. That's why they are Mint State.

    -Amanda
    image

    I'm a YN working on a type set!

    My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!

    Proud member of the CUFYNA
  • RichieURichRichieURich Posts: 8,563 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Both. As many others have stated, sometimes the coin is so rare or so expensive in problem-free condition that a problem coin makes sense.

    An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.

  • carlcarl Posts: 2,054
    If your an idiot type collector like I am, you end up collecting everything. I have 6 boxes of 2x2 error coins, rolls of that famous 55 poor mans double die, 26 rolls of 1943 steel cents, boxes of 2x2's of foreign coins that I don't even know what country they are from. Lots of Missouri Mills. Then there is the dented, scratched, bent, faded, etc coins. I have some blanks that are really not coins. I tried giving lots of that stuff away but I just keep on finding more. I've noticed my house is sinking because of all the weight.
    Carl
  • ERER Posts: 7,345
    Here's a problem coin that I like, knowing it's a problem coin.

    image
  • mach19mach19 Posts: 4,002 ✭✭
    I try not to. However, I did purchase a 1996 ASE with a brown spot on it.
    TIN SOLDIERS & NIXON COMING image
  • lasvegasteddylasvegasteddy Posts: 10,432 ✭✭✭
    I'VE BOUGHT MORE PROBLEM COINS THAN I WANTED TOO...BUT SUCH IS LIFE AND LEARNING I AM
    everything in life is but merely on loan to us by our appreciation....lose your appreciation and see


  • I cannot bring myself to buy a problem coin.I am a modern collector.Probably that is the main reason why I do collect moderns and not bearing the cost to buy old classics.Maybe it's both I don't know.When I look at the prices of the classics and to get a gem grade you gotta shell out some big bucks.Why should I settle for problem coins in my collection when I want a nice set..??
    ......Larry........image
  • My collecting focus is such that coins of interest must be considered regardless of past indignities. If an interesting coin is made available, it is considered regardless of surface issues. Of course, the price and level of interest must cross somewhere in my comfort zone. Momma raised several fools, but I ain't one of 'em!
  • rec78rec78 Posts: 5,874 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I voted for unmessed with as that is what i strive for. However sometimes it is being unrealisted to expect problem free coins to be available for some rare issues.(At least at reasonable cost). Minor problems are ok on older circulated coins. Cleaned bust and seated coins are the norm. I do not consider cleaning to be a big problem unless it looks like someone took a brillo pad to it. By minor problems i mean - Light cleaning, very light scratches that are barely noticable, light digs if not too noticable,etc. Like someone else has said--The rarer the coin the more promlematic it can be and it will still be acceptible.- I would gladly accept a Brasher Doubloon with sixteen holes in it, scratched to smithereens, and sawed in two. Bob
    image
  • MrHalfDimeMrHalfDime Posts: 3,440 ✭✭✭✭
    Like Barndog, I would eagerly purchase what might be described by some as a 'problem' coin if it were the right coin, and I have done so on numerous occasions. Unfortunately, for both Barndog and myself, those 'problem' coins are in the same series. One example was from the Jules Reiver sale - an NCS 'XF details' 1833 LM-3.5 Capped Bust half dime, with an enormous full cud at NITE.

    http://coins.heritageauctions.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=390&Lot_No=22046&src=pr#

    (You may have to sign in to the Heritage Archives in order to view the coin).

    When making a decision to purchase such a coin, one of the deciding factors was the population - just 2 known. It was now or never. I am willing to overlook the dent and porous surfaces in order to add this R8 cud to my reference collection. Overall, my collection of Capped Bust half dimes is uniformly high AU, but I was not willing to forgo adding this incredible terminal die state to my collection because of some obsession about 'problem' coins.

    I do have my standards, but I would place completion of a set above strict adherence to a grading standard.
    They that can give up essential Liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither Liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin

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