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My Strategy

Collect coins in the highest grade available...hold for a period of time, and disperse....many of these coins are pop1 or 2...can't see losing on this startaegy, as long as I hold long enough...scr

Comments

  • XpipedreamRXpipedreamR Posts: 8,059 ✭✭

    What is the goal of your strategy? It would be easier to comment knowing that.
  • What if your pop1 or pop2s pop increases ? image


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  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for letting us in on your plan. Mind if I do the same?
  • strategy,,,,buy toppos in varieos series, and collect the stuff I llike...profit from top pop should fund my other collections...scr
  • XpipedreamRXpipedreamR Posts: 8,059 ✭✭
    So, you're saying that you wish to allocate a portion of your coin spending on a strictly investment basis, and use the proceeds from that to fund the rest of your collection, the coins you are really interested in? I guess that would certainly work if you pick the right coins for investment. I hope you do well image
  • i suspect alot of pop 1 coins are in pretty strong hands and unless youre name is Bill Gates you wont be buying many !
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  • ERER Posts: 7,345
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    Now, why didn't I think of that? Thanks, man.
  • messydeskmessydesk Posts: 20,731 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Pop top moderns for which buckets full of coins are yet to be submitted are in a rather tenuous position. What happens if your pop. 1 goes to pop. 4 overnight, then 7 or 8 a few weeks later? Even with older coins, the prices are being held up by the registry craze. If collecting trends change and people decide to look at their coins more than the holders they're in when building a collection, the difference between a 67 and 68 becomes less important, and the order of magnitude price differences between the coins at the top grade and the next one down erodes.
  • RichieURichRichieURich Posts: 8,620 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>If collecting trends change and people decide to look at their coins more than the holders they're in when building a collection, the difference between a 67 and 68 becomes less important, and the order of magnitude price differences between the coins at the top grade and the next one down erodes. >>



    Or if people don't have enough money to buy the 67's and 68's, their prices won't hold up either.

    An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.

  • May I suggest a different strategy? If RYK also wants to follow it, that's okay, too!image

    Study and learn those series that most interest you; learn how to grade; don't be a slave to numbers, as several recent threads have amply illustrated the perils of trying to out guess the slab mills; enjoy what you buy, share your knowledge, make time to travel to a major show at least once a year, make friends, and enjoy the camraderie of these people when you meet at shows. One of the greatest learning experiences in all of numismatics is to attend the summer ANA, or FUN, or Baltimore shows.

    While it may prove more difficult to follow this strategy than the one you proposed, it will be more enjoyable and memorable, and yes, in the end, more profitable.
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Study and learn those series that most interest you; learn how to grade; don't be a slave to numbers, as several recent threads have amply illustrated the perils of trying to out guess the slab mills; enjoy what you buy, share your knowledge, make time to travel to a major show at least once a year, make friends, and enjoy the camraderie of these people when you meet at shows. One of the greatest learning experiences in all of numismatics is to attend the summer ANA, or FUN, or Baltimore shows.

    Slumlord, that's my current strategy, and I am sticking with it. image
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 35,764 ✭✭✭✭✭
    POP - 1 coins = over inflated prices to satisfy a lot of over inflated egos.

    You can overpay for anything, but there are lots of people out there who don't believe that's possilble.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?


  • << <i>Study and learn those series that most interest you; learn how to grade; don't be a slave to numbers, as several recent threads have amply illustrated the perils of trying to out guess the slab mills; enjoy what you buy, share your knowledge, make time to travel to a major show at least once a year, make friends, and enjoy the camraderie of these people when you meet at shows. One of the greatest learning experiences in all of numismatics is to attend the summer ANA, or FUN, or Baltimore shows.

    Slumlord, that's my current strategy, and I am sticking with it. image >>





    I thought you were going to buy pop 1's, hold them a few years and then sell them at a loss....umm...I meant profit.
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I thought you were going to buy pop 1's, hold them a few years and then sell them at a loss....umm...I meant profit.

    I cannot make up my mind. imageimageimage
  • sweetwillietsweetwilliet Posts: 2,316 ✭✭✭
    I think buying top pop moderns will be a losing enterprise, in that there are so many coins to be submitted, pop 1 could become pop 100 oernight, and then the value crashes. I do collect at least partially based on pops, I collect pl/dmpl morgans, I think the are a bargain relative to the non-pl prices (of course if they crash, I'm screwed). Of course, I collect what I like more than I do on pops. If my coins dropped in value to face value only, I could handle it (after a lot of #@$$%@$^&amp;&!!!).
    Listen. Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government. Supreme executive power derives from a mandate from the masses, not from some farcical aquatic ceremony.
    Will’sProoflikes
  • This is a terrible strategy, unless you can be reasonably sure your coin of choice is actually condition census, you are taking a significant risk. As others have pointed out, your low population coin can go from "rare" to "common" overnight. Modern coins especially proofs are for the most part common in MS70 or PF70 condition and that's why they are affordable.
    "To know the road ahead, ask those coming back"
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 29,905 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Has everyone lost his collective mind?

    This guy says he's doing what we all do best which is collecting what he enjoys
    while making money along the way. If it's working for him then it can't be wrong.

    As far as "moderns" some people seem to still be stuck in the 1960's. That's back
    where moderns started and we're now well into the 21st century. A Colorado quar-
    ter may have a big pop increase but the older moderns which are widely collected
    have very little chance of seeing big pop changes at the high end.

    Believe it on not more than two generations have come and gone since "moderns"
    were new.

    Even the ultra-moderns (post-'98) are starting to get a little long in the tooth.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Pop top moderns for which buckets full of coins are yet to be submitted are in a rather tenuous position. >>





    << <i>I think buying top pop moderns will be a losing enterprise >>





    << <i>Modern coins especially proofs are for the most part common in MS70 or PF70 condition >>



    Strange, but I don't see where he mentioned anything about moderns in either of his posts. If you guys are going to rush in to bash moderns you probably ought to find out first if the topic actually is moderns.

    Russ, NCNE
  • bidaskbidask Posts: 14,057 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Strange, but I don't see where he mentioned anything about moderns in either of his posts. If you guys are going to rush in to bash moderns you probably out to find out first if the topic actually is moderns.

    Russ, NCNE >>

    Actually it seems like moderns are growing in populartity and are appearing in more and more auctions!
    I manage money. I earn money. I save money .
    I give away money. I collect money.
    I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.




  • RedTigerRedTiger Posts: 5,608
    Collect coins in the highest grade available...hold for a period of time, and disperse....many of these coins are pop1 or 2...can't see losing on this startaegy, as long as I hold long enough...scr

    Sounds fine as long as you don't care about losing money. Pop 1's and 2's sell for huge premiums. The strategy depends on that already huge premium increasing. Often there are only 2 or 3 bidders at the end of an auction for a top pop. That may leave only 1 or 2 willing buyers at just below the price you paid. If there is only one bidder that bumped the price up with you, it may be a LONG way down when you are the one selling, unless more buyers appear. If buying from a dealer, the price is usually even higher than at auction.

    Holding for a long time period adds another element of risk. No one knows how long the major grading companies will remain the way they are. Grading standards have and will continue to evolve, with a general loosening of standards over the past 15 years, making more and more high grade coins available for most dates and mintmarks. Another risk, is if there is a change in ownership, or a shift to a new grading standard, such as the proposed 100 point scale, or the widely talked about computerized tag grading, who knows what the old top pops will regrade at? Today's top pops may well grade out higher with more separation under any new system, but they may not, and the person holding the old top pop may be holding a common grade coin after the new system is implemented.

    Nothing wrong with buying top pops if that is what floats your boat. However, there are elements of risk where the coins might very well go down in value in the long run. Enjoy the hobby.

    Always remember that dealers make most of the money in the hobby. The collectors that do well financially love the hobby, have a talent for grading, and spend countless hours learning about coins and making contacts in order to be able to buy coins at better prices. Collectors that lean heavily on third party grading without developing their own expertise are probably not going to do that well financially.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 29,905 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    Sounds fine as long as you don't care about losing money. Pop 1's and 2's sell for huge premiums. The strategy depends on that already huge premium increasing. Often there are only 2 or 3 bidders at the end of an auction for a top pop. That may leave only 1 or 2 willing buyers at just below the price you paid. If there is only one bidder that bumped the price up with you, it may be a LONG way down when you are the one selling, unless more buyers appear. If buying from a dealer, the price is usually even higher than at auction.

    Holding for a long time period adds another element of risk. No one knows how long the major grading companies will remain the way they are. Grading standards have and will continue to evolve, with a general loosening of standards over the past 15 years, making more and more high grade coins available for most dates and mintmarks. Another risk, is if there is a change in ownership, or a shift to a new grading standard, such as the proposed 100 point scale, or the widely talked about computerized tag grading, who knows what the old top pops will regrade at? Today's top pops may well grade out higher with more separation under any new system, but they may not, and the person holding the old top pop may be holding a common grade coin after the new system is implemented.

    Nothing wrong with buying top pops if that is what floats your boat. However, there are elements of risk where the coins might very well go down in value in the long run. Enjoy the hobby.

    Always remember that dealers make most of the money in the hobby. The collectors that do well financially love the hobby, have a talent for grading, and spend countless hours learning about coins and making contacts in order to be able to buy coins at better prices. Collectors that lean heavily on third party grading without developing their own expertise are probably not going to do that well financially. >>



    All good points. My earlier post presupposes that he has already been profiting from this strategy.

    There is inherent risk in buying any collectible and this includes both the pop tops and what he's collecting.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • sweetwillietsweetwilliet Posts: 2,316 ✭✭✭
    Strange, but I don't see where he mentioned anything about moderns in either of his posts. If you guys are going to rush in to bash moderns you probably ought to find out first if the topic actually is moderns.

    You're right, he said nothing of moderns. I was giving an opinion on what top pops I thought would be more likely to appreciate the most, just my opinion, warn you, as I have been known to lose money from time to time. My point was that I think the older coins versus more recent ones are more likely to have had a greater percentage of available population submitted, so therefore they are more likely to not have their population change rapidly and thus are more likely to appreciate the most. Just my opinion.
    Listen. Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government. Supreme executive power derives from a mandate from the masses, not from some farcical aquatic ceremony.
    Will’sProoflikes
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    messydesk was the first to mention moderns well into the thread. I did not realize that we were necessarily talking about moderns, classics, colonials, generics, etc.
  • pharmerpharmer Posts: 8,355
    Roelsports, give us an example or two of pop 1 or 2 coins that you have. Thanks.
    Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?

    Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."

    image

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