Home U.S. Coin Forum

How I should approach a Coin World dealer about 2 overgraded coins I just received?

I just received 2 overgraded 3CN from JEL. Needless to say, I'm disappointed.

On one hand, they were accurately described over the phone as original, problem free, nice coins. This was true. He claimed one was an (1879) XF and the other an (1888) XF+. At best the 1879 is a nice VF25+ and the 1888 is a VF35. I paid $196 including shipping. I think I've overpaid by at least $25 and maybe more. Yes, it's not a ton of money, but I absolutely feel that I've been overcharged for what I've received.

I've bought from him before and I was satisfied with those purchases, although I would never say the coins were strong for the grade; I could say I paid a fair price for them.

I haven't called him (Jim) yet. What are your opinions on how I should approach this? When I've talked to Jim in the past, I've found he isn't much for conversation and I'm concerned that he'll be quite defensive. Perhaps I'm wrong. And, as usual, I always approach situations like this with "kid gloves".

Bruce

Comments

  • Wolf359Wolf359 Posts: 7,663 ✭✭✭
    If you aren't happy, why call him at all? Just return the coins with a nice note saying "These won't work for me".
  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.

    image
  • Contact him and tell him exactly what you told us.
    image

    image
  • PrethenPrethen Posts: 3,461 ✭✭✭


    << <i>If you aren't happy, why call him at all? Just return the coins with a nice note saying "These won't work for me". >>


    That might seem like the simple answer, however I'd prefer to see if a better deal can be worked. I hate playing the postage game and I'll lose on both ends of that game. The other part of the answer is that these coins are relatively difficult to find in problem free shape in the nicer mid-circulated grades. I'd rather keep them if a deal can still be made.
  • PrethenPrethen Posts: 3,461 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.
    image >>


    Oddly enough, one of the things that frustrates me about certain dealers is that they have no accessibility via the Internet...and he's one. I won't ding him for that, but at least it's unlikely he'll know about this forum unless someone else "snitches"! image
  • coinguy1coinguy1 Posts: 13,484 ✭✭✭


    << <i>That might seem like the simple answer, however I'd prefer to see if a better deal can be worked >>

    Bruce, that might make you look bad and/or call your credibility into question, regarding your reason for wanting to negotiate. Buy them, without complaining/negotiating, or return them. That will be better for you in the long run.
  • What is his return policy?
  • PrethenPrethen Posts: 3,461 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>That might seem like the simple answer, however I'd prefer to see if a better deal can be worked >>

    Bruce, that might make you look bad and/or call your credibility into question, regarding your reason for wanting to negotiate. Buy them, without complaining/negotiating, or return them. That will be better for you in the long run. >>


    Sorry, Mark, I disagree with you 100% on this one (see my last PM to you). I strongly feel that as a "decent" dealer he should be willing to hear from more experienced collectors that are willing to disagree with (inaccurate) descriptions.
  • I would call and indicate that you would like to return the coins, as you believe that they are not a very good value, at the price. That will give him an opportunity to perhaps offer a price adjustment, should he not, then return the coins, if that is an option.
  • Bruce----I doubt there are very many CW dealers who actually grade correctly in their 'retail' business. So, if you feel the coins are not correctly graded, return them. He has a 10 day return priviledge. Tell him that the coins are overgraded. He already knows that but does not know weather you know it or not. This will establish that fact----if you return them. Another option would be to call him and, if you still like the coins----negotiate at that point a 'fair' reduction in price. If he balks at the offer, just return the coins. Plenty of guys to buy from out there. Bob [supertooth]
    Bob
  • ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭


    << <i>The other part of the answer is that these coins are relatively difficult to find in problem free shape in the nicer mid-circulated grades. I'd rather keep them if a deal can still be made. >>

    Which would seem to indicate that truly problem-free coins in this grade range are probably worth a premium over the typical schlock that's accurately graded in terms of wear. In that context, are you sure you overpaid? If these coins are of unusually high quality for the technical grade, maybe the price was fair even if the representation was optimistic.

    I'd either keep the coins or return them. I wouldn't try to "negotiate" anything in this case. But that's just me personally.
  • coinguy1coinguy1 Posts: 13,484 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Sorry, Mark, I disagree with you 100% on this one (see my last PM to you). I strongly feel that as a "decent" dealer he should be willing to hear from more experienced collectors that are willing to disagree with (inaccurate) descriptions >>

    Bruce, there is nothing wrong with letting him know how you feel about the coins. However, if you do that in conjunction with negotiating, your words will probably ring hollow. Return them and nicely let him know why you did so.

    Edited to add: As a compromise, you could let him know you had considered making a counter-offer based upon the quality of the coins. However, you decided not to, because some idiot dealer on the forum told you the seller would probably doubt your veracity if you did so. Who knows, maybe he'll say "What do you want to pay?"image


  • << <i>Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.

    image >>






    No one expects The Forum Inquisition™

    -------------------------

    imageimage
    Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?

    Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."

    image
  • mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    I agree with CG1 on this one.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
  • mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.

    image >>






    No one expects The Forum Inquisition™

    image

    -------------------------

    imageimage >>

    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
  • TahoeDaleTahoeDale Posts: 1,785 ✭✭✭
    Bruce,

    I'd think about how the overcharge($25 approx) compares to the difficulty in finding these dates in mid-circ grades.

    Sure, the coins are not up to the grades described, but that happens with slabbed coins as well as raw.

    I own several bust halves in holders that are 1 to 3 points too generous, but I have kept them because of the rarity and difficulty in finding better ones.

    I also agree with Mark. Keep them, or return.

    TahoeDale
  • PrethenPrethen Posts: 3,461 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Sorry, Mark, I disagree with you 100% on this one (see my last PM to you). I strongly feel that as a "decent" dealer he should be willing to hear from more experienced collectors that are willing to disagree with (inaccurate) descriptions >>

    Bruce, there is nothing wrong with letting him know how you feel about the coins. However, if you do that in conjunction with negotiating, your words will probably ring hollow. Return them and nicely let him know why you did so.

    Edited to add: As a compromise, you could let him know you had considered making a counter-offer based upon the quality of the coins. However, you decided not to, because some idiot dealer on the forum told you the seller would probably doubt your veracity if you did so. Who knows, maybe he'll say "What do you want to pay?"image >>


    Now THAT I like! You're definitely not an idiot. Perhaps I can pin that label on a different dealer? image
  • Seems like too much of a hassle over $25 or so.

    I agree with those who say either return them or keep them. Personally I would keep the coins. If they're problem free, then the small premium you paid is worth it, IMO.

    And as you probably already know, if you still want to negotiate a better price, then negotiate the price and not the grade.
    Bill
  • BlindedByEgoBlindedByEgo Posts: 10,754 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I would call him and and ask for return authorization for a refund.

    When he asks you why, let him know that the coins didn't meet your expectation for the grade.

    Then listen to HIS proposal - let him take the lead. He may offer a discount/ refund to avoid the return - or he may have another buyer for the coins...

    But let HIM do the talking, and listen. It always goes over better letting people sell themselve on their own solutions, IMO.
  • ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I would call him and and ask for return authorization for a refund.

    When he asks you why, let him know that the coins didn't meet your expectation for the grade.

    Then listen to HIS proposal - let him take the lead. He may offer a discount/ refund to avoid the return - or he may have another buyer for the coins...

    But let HIM do the talking, and listen. It always goes over better letting people sell themselve on their own solutions, IMO. >>

    image

    If I liked the coins but thought I paid a little too much for them, I'd let them *offer* to bargain it down...but I wouldn't make that initial request.
  • BarryBarry Posts: 10,100 ✭✭✭
    Return the coins. I wouldn't try to negotiate a better deal based on the "true" grades. Mail order dealers count on postage costs and inertia for their rips. That's why they have been in business as long as they have.

    I see JEL regularly at local shows. Sometimes he has reasonable prices, other times his prices are just absurd. Guess he tries to see what he can get away with. BTW, he has the foulest mouth I've ever heard at a coin show, and doesn't care if kids happen to be walking by his table while he's speaking Sailorese. He's as lowlife as dealers get, in my opinion.
  • 291fifth291fifth Posts: 24,707 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Always return overgraded coins for a refund. Many mail order dealers operate on the premise that 60% of the overgraded coins they send out won't be returned.
    All glory is fleeting.
  • ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Always return overgraded coins for a refund. >>

    Even if you're still satisfied with them for the money?

    If I pay Fine money for a coin advertised as XF and I get a problem-free VF that still fits well in my collection, should I return it? Yes, that's a pretty extreme example, but it's also a bit extreme to use the word "always" as you did.
  • DismeguyDismeguy Posts: 496 ✭✭✭
    I don't worry about overgraded coins anymore. If I do not like the dimes immediately, then I just return them back to the dealer and request a refund. Trust your initial reaction to the coins and then move on quickly! If they are marginal now, I can guarantee you will still be unhappy with them in 6 months.

    My typical reason for a return is "the coins just do not work for me". No other explanation is needed. I eat the postage and learn from the experience.

    Gerry Fortin's Rare American Coins Online Storefront and Liberty Seated Dime Varieties Web- Book www.SeatedDimeVarieties.com Buying and Selling all Seated Denominations....


  • << <i>I would call him and and ask for return authorization for a refund.

    When he asks you why, let him know that the coins didn't meet your expectation for the grade.

    Then listen to HIS proposal - let him take the lead. He may offer a discount/ refund to avoid the return - or he may have another buyer for the coins...

    But let HIM do the talking, and listen. It always goes over better letting people sell themselve on their own solutions, IMO. >>



    I Agree with you . I would handle it this way
    Founder of the NDCCA. *WAM Count : 025. *NDCCA Database Count : 2,610. *You suck 6/24/10. <3 In memory of Tiggar 5/21/1994 - 5/28/2010 <3
    image
  • michaelmichael Posts: 9,524 ✭✭✭
    great thread and many even greater replies!! and i am sure this threadf will help at least one person if not many new to the mail order raw coin game!!

    this should be read by every collector new to ordering from coin world and numismatic news raw coin advertisers

    quite informative!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    the best thread on here in the last three weeks!!!
  • michaelmichael Posts: 9,524 ✭✭✭
    oh and keep the coins bruce as they are fairly priced for what they are

    if the 1879 is not porous then they are both keepers

    as true xf xf 45 coins 1879 and 1888 three cent nicks with great eye appeal and surfaces would be 65% more than you are paying now
  • mozinmozin Posts: 8,755 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I don't worry about overgraded coins anymore. If I do not like the dimes immediately, then I just return them back to the dealer and request a refund. Trust your initial reaction to the coins and then move on quickly! If they are marginal now, I can guarantee you will still be unhappy with them in 6 months.

    My typical reason for a return is "the coins just do not work for me". No other explanation is needed. I eat the postage and learn from the experience. >>

    image

    Forget bargaining with this dealer. He knows exactly what he is selling.image
    I collect Capped Bust series by variety in PCGS AU/MS grades.
  • PrethenPrethen Posts: 3,461 ✭✭✭
    Well, I decided on keeping both coins and not to call Jim at JEL about this. His grades were definitely what I would call "optimistic" which is the real reason for my disappointment. However, at the worst I overpaid by about 15% and at best I paid fair value. The coins are already sitting very happily in my Littleton album. Funny enough, I believe the 1879 is actually a circulated proof, but it's never been cleaned or messed with in any way.

    I appreciate everyone's comments, especially the one's noting that Jim knows EXACTLY what he's selling. Very true. It's very common for dealers to be optimistic about a coin's grade. I just hate it when they do that for coins they sell sight unseen.

    In the future, I'll still do business with JEL, but I have to keep in mind that the coins are likely overgraded by 1 or 2 steps when evaluating their pricing.

    image
    image

Leave a Comment

BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list
Emoji
Image
Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights
Drop image/file