How I should approach a Coin World dealer about 2 overgraded coins I just received?

I just received 2 overgraded 3CN from JEL. Needless to say, I'm disappointed.
On one hand, they were accurately described over the phone as original, problem free, nice coins. This was true. He claimed one was an (1879) XF and the other an (1888) XF+. At best the 1879 is a nice VF25+ and the 1888 is a VF35. I paid $196 including shipping. I think I've overpaid by at least $25 and maybe more. Yes, it's not a ton of money, but I absolutely feel that I've been overcharged for what I've received.
I've bought from him before and I was satisfied with those purchases, although I would never say the coins were strong for the grade; I could say I paid a fair price for them.
I haven't called him (Jim) yet. What are your opinions on how I should approach this? When I've talked to Jim in the past, I've found he isn't much for conversation and I'm concerned that he'll be quite defensive. Perhaps I'm wrong. And, as usual, I always approach situations like this with "kid gloves".
Bruce
On one hand, they were accurately described over the phone as original, problem free, nice coins. This was true. He claimed one was an (1879) XF and the other an (1888) XF+. At best the 1879 is a nice VF25+ and the 1888 is a VF35. I paid $196 including shipping. I think I've overpaid by at least $25 and maybe more. Yes, it's not a ton of money, but I absolutely feel that I've been overcharged for what I've received.
I've bought from him before and I was satisfied with those purchases, although I would never say the coins were strong for the grade; I could say I paid a fair price for them.
I haven't called him (Jim) yet. What are your opinions on how I should approach this? When I've talked to Jim in the past, I've found he isn't much for conversation and I'm concerned that he'll be quite defensive. Perhaps I'm wrong. And, as usual, I always approach situations like this with "kid gloves".
Bruce
0
Comments
Free Trial
<< <i>If you aren't happy, why call him at all? Just return the coins with a nice note saying "These won't work for me". >>
That might seem like the simple answer, however I'd prefer to see if a better deal can be worked. I hate playing the postage game and I'll lose on both ends of that game. The other part of the answer is that these coins are relatively difficult to find in problem free shape in the nicer mid-circulated grades. I'd rather keep them if a deal can still be made.
<< <i>Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.
Oddly enough, one of the things that frustrates me about certain dealers is that they have no accessibility via the Internet...and he's one. I won't ding him for that, but at least it's unlikely he'll know about this forum unless someone else "snitches"!
<< <i>That might seem like the simple answer, however I'd prefer to see if a better deal can be worked >>
Bruce, that might make you look bad and/or call your credibility into question, regarding your reason for wanting to negotiate. Buy them, without complaining/negotiating, or return them. That will be better for you in the long run.
<< <i>
<< <i>That might seem like the simple answer, however I'd prefer to see if a better deal can be worked >>
Bruce, that might make you look bad and/or call your credibility into question, regarding your reason for wanting to negotiate. Buy them, without complaining/negotiating, or return them. That will be better for you in the long run. >>
Sorry, Mark, I disagree with you 100% on this one (see my last PM to you). I strongly feel that as a "decent" dealer he should be willing to hear from more experienced collectors that are willing to disagree with (inaccurate) descriptions.
<< <i>The other part of the answer is that these coins are relatively difficult to find in problem free shape in the nicer mid-circulated grades. I'd rather keep them if a deal can still be made. >>
Which would seem to indicate that truly problem-free coins in this grade range are probably worth a premium over the typical schlock that's accurately graded in terms of wear. In that context, are you sure you overpaid? If these coins are of unusually high quality for the technical grade, maybe the price was fair even if the representation was optimistic.
I'd either keep the coins or return them. I wouldn't try to "negotiate" anything in this case. But that's just me personally.
<< <i>Sorry, Mark, I disagree with you 100% on this one (see my last PM to you). I strongly feel that as a "decent" dealer he should be willing to hear from more experienced collectors that are willing to disagree with (inaccurate) descriptions >>
Bruce, there is nothing wrong with letting him know how you feel about the coins. However, if you do that in conjunction with negotiating, your words will probably ring hollow. Return them and nicely let him know why you did so.
Edited to add: As a compromise, you could let him know you had considered making a counter-offer based upon the quality of the coins. However, you decided not to, because some idiot dealer on the forum told you the seller would probably doubt your veracity if you did so. Who knows, maybe he'll say "What do you want to pay?"
<< <i>Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.
No one expects The Forum Inquisition™
-------------------------
Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
<< <i>
<< <i>Well, I don't think I'd start out by telling him that you have posted the problem on the forum before talking to him.
No one expects The Forum Inquisition™
-------------------------
I'd think about how the overcharge($25 approx) compares to the difficulty in finding these dates in mid-circ grades.
Sure, the coins are not up to the grades described, but that happens with slabbed coins as well as raw.
I own several bust halves in holders that are 1 to 3 points too generous, but I have kept them because of the rarity and difficulty in finding better ones.
I also agree with Mark. Keep them, or return.
<< <i>
<< <i>Sorry, Mark, I disagree with you 100% on this one (see my last PM to you). I strongly feel that as a "decent" dealer he should be willing to hear from more experienced collectors that are willing to disagree with (inaccurate) descriptions >>
Bruce, there is nothing wrong with letting him know how you feel about the coins. However, if you do that in conjunction with negotiating, your words will probably ring hollow. Return them and nicely let him know why you did so.
Edited to add: As a compromise, you could let him know you had considered making a counter-offer based upon the quality of the coins. However, you decided not to, because some idiot dealer on the forum told you the seller would probably doubt your veracity if you did so. Who knows, maybe he'll say "What do you want to pay?"
Now THAT I like! You're definitely not an idiot. Perhaps I can pin that label on a different dealer?
I agree with those who say either return them or keep them. Personally I would keep the coins. If they're problem free, then the small premium you paid is worth it, IMO.
And as you probably already know, if you still want to negotiate a better price, then negotiate the price and not the grade.
When he asks you why, let him know that the coins didn't meet your expectation for the grade.
Then listen to HIS proposal - let him take the lead. He may offer a discount/ refund to avoid the return - or he may have another buyer for the coins...
But let HIM do the talking, and listen. It always goes over better letting people sell themselve on their own solutions, IMO.
Check out my current listings: https://ebay.com/sch/khunt/m.html?_ipg=200&_sop=12&_rdc=1
<< <i>I would call him and and ask for return authorization for a refund.
When he asks you why, let him know that the coins didn't meet your expectation for the grade.
Then listen to HIS proposal - let him take the lead. He may offer a discount/ refund to avoid the return - or he may have another buyer for the coins...
But let HIM do the talking, and listen. It always goes over better letting people sell themselve on their own solutions, IMO. >>
If I liked the coins but thought I paid a little too much for them, I'd let them *offer* to bargain it down...but I wouldn't make that initial request.
I see JEL regularly at local shows. Sometimes he has reasonable prices, other times his prices are just absurd. Guess he tries to see what he can get away with. BTW, he has the foulest mouth I've ever heard at a coin show, and doesn't care if kids happen to be walking by his table while he's speaking Sailorese. He's as lowlife as dealers get, in my opinion.
<< <i>Always return overgraded coins for a refund. >>
Even if you're still satisfied with them for the money?
If I pay Fine money for a coin advertised as XF and I get a problem-free VF that still fits well in my collection, should I return it? Yes, that's a pretty extreme example, but it's also a bit extreme to use the word "always" as you did.
My typical reason for a return is "the coins just do not work for me". No other explanation is needed. I eat the postage and learn from the experience.
<< <i>I would call him and and ask for return authorization for a refund.
When he asks you why, let him know that the coins didn't meet your expectation for the grade.
Then listen to HIS proposal - let him take the lead. He may offer a discount/ refund to avoid the return - or he may have another buyer for the coins...
But let HIM do the talking, and listen. It always goes over better letting people sell themselve on their own solutions, IMO. >>
I Agree with you . I would handle it this way
this should be read by every collector new to ordering from coin world and numismatic news raw coin advertisers
quite informative!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the best thread on here in the last three weeks!!!
if the 1879 is not porous then they are both keepers
as true xf xf 45 coins 1879 and 1888 three cent nicks with great eye appeal and surfaces would be 65% more than you are paying now
<< <i>I don't worry about overgraded coins anymore. If I do not like the dimes immediately, then I just return them back to the dealer and request a refund. Trust your initial reaction to the coins and then move on quickly! If they are marginal now, I can guarantee you will still be unhappy with them in 6 months.
My typical reason for a return is "the coins just do not work for me". No other explanation is needed. I eat the postage and learn from the experience. >>
Forget bargaining with this dealer. He knows exactly what he is selling.
I appreciate everyone's comments, especially the one's noting that Jim knows EXACTLY what he's selling. Very true. It's very common for dealers to be optimistic about a coin's grade. I just hate it when they do that for coins they sell sight unseen.
In the future, I'll still do business with JEL, but I have to keep in mind that the coins are likely overgraded by 1 or 2 steps when evaluating their pricing.