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Should I dismember my 1951, '52 proof sets?
gyocomgd
Posts: 2,582 ✭✭✭
I've come into possession of two fantastic proof sets ('51, '52) in the original cardboard containers. Opening them was a total rush...gently unfolding the tissue inside the boxes, then gingerly lifting the sweet booty in their pristeen little cellophane wrapers (which I was advised will fall apart if handled roughly at all). I must say, these proof coins are something! The sensation of peeking through these proof sets was exhilarating to me and quite different than perusing any mint-state examples.
My question: Having obtained these at a reasonable price, how would I go about determing whether it would be worthwhile breaking up the set? I can't grade proof coins at all, regardless of the series. I'm impressed by the prices of the Franklin and Washington in high-grade proof condition, but how would I evaluate them? On the surface this does not appear to be a task for a local dealer. Nor does it seem sensible to arbitrarily break them up and send to PCGS?
Please help.
Guy
My question: Having obtained these at a reasonable price, how would I go about determing whether it would be worthwhile breaking up the set? I can't grade proof coins at all, regardless of the series. I'm impressed by the prices of the Franklin and Washington in high-grade proof condition, but how would I evaluate them? On the surface this does not appear to be a task for a local dealer. Nor does it seem sensible to arbitrarily break them up and send to PCGS?
Please help.
Guy
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Comments
09/07/2006
<< <i>I've come into possession of two fantastic proof sets ('51, '52) in the original cardboard containers. Opening them was a total rush...gently unfolding the tissue inside the boxes, then gingerly lifting the sweet booty in their pristeen little cellophane wrapers (which I was advised will fall apart if handled roughly at all). I must say, these proof coins are something! The sensation of peeking through these proof sets was exhilarating to me and quite different than perusing any mint-state examples. >>
You should write romance novels.
Whether or not you should break them up depends on the grades of the coins - particularly the Franklin Half Dollars. The 1950 and 1951 proof Frankies in gem or better bring strong money. However, there's a reason they bring strong money. They're tough. Most in these sets don't grade better than PR64 due to hairlining.
Russ, NCNE
<< <i>Can you provide any images? >>
I can't remove them to photograph without damaging the cellophane. You know how these are--sealed on one end and stapled closed on the other.
Bill, maybe I can tote them over to the next show in New Haven, if you're going.
I think that original sets like this will be historically important as the years go by. I'd keep the set intact, unless you have a two sided cameo in the set that would sell for a lot of money as a single. Even then you might get a premium from a well-versed buyer.
Edited for spelling.
Do NOT GET PLASTIC "SANDWICH" BAGS WITHIN 10 FEET OF THESE COINS.
Or, if you must, go right ahead - and to really make sure they're safely tucked away, pound the sandwich bags vigourously with hammer into the surfaces of each piece.
Why grade them??? Unless they come out very very high grade PF67 or better, they are not worth getting graded.
Don't even take the staples out.
I've bought some 51 and 52 sets in capital plastic and graded those coins high grade, but in the original sets, leave them alone.
They also most likely have hairlines. You'll never know until you get them out, then it's too late.
The only exception might be if you have an obvious double sided cameo coin. That might be worth grading.
Ike Specialist
Finest Toned Ike I've Ever Seen, been looking since 1986
If I had those dates,I'd keep them the way they are.
Just because you have fresh paper doesn't mean no hairlines!
The early proof coins, particularly the halves are notorious for hairlines.
The halves in high grade are where the $$$ are.
Ike Specialist
Finest Toned Ike I've Ever Seen, been looking since 1986