Opinion, is there a Deep Cameo under the haze?
MadMarty
Posts: 16,697 ✭✭✭
Well...
It is not exactly cheating, I prefer to consider it creative problem solving!!!
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Cameron Kiefer
<< <i>The haze will be gone and it might be a DCAM
Cameron Kiefer >>
and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
<< <i>The spots behind the bust under L and I might be trouble, but it's a dcam IMO. Good luck. That's an expensive date.
Those spot are toning spots and not milk spots. I am not going to screw with it and it is off to the bath house on Monday..
Aerospace Structures Engineer
<< <i>The haze will be gone and it might be a DCAM
Cameron Kiefer >>
42/92
One way to find out.
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etexmike
Send it to me! I have a bottle of brasso and a steel wool pad that I am willing to sacrifice for your cause!
Russ, NCNE
I like it
<< <i>How do you find all these Gems??
Lot's of hard work!
In about 18 months,there will not be a proof or mint set that Marty or Russ has not looked at !
After the bath ?
66 DCAM and you suck !
Russ, NCNE
Here ya go.
Its a secret !
Pretty nice pix and i can see that goin CAM
I would not want to bathe this one myself; too much chance for a mistake on a coin that has nice upside potential especially if it DCAM's.
So much for my thoughts on the pictured coin, do you think it has a chance at a DCAM? What do you think the numerical grade will be? And finally, where did you find it (original boxed set, assembled set, cracked out of a slab or a raw single)?
Great pick up, however it is too bad it is not a 1950, 51, 52, 53, or 59. Let us know how it turns out. SanctionII.
SanctionIII:
<< <i>So much for my thoughts on the pictured coin, do you think it has a chance at a DCAM? >>
No idea--all I can do is try. If it simply goes CAM, that's enough for me.
<< <i>I would not want to bathe this one myself; too much chance for a mistake on a coin that has nice upside potential especially if it DCAM's. >>
Yes, I am pondering this myself--maybe I'll just re-submit and skip the bath, dunno yet. I'm far from proficient on bathing these coins, but I do have a bottle of MS-70 handy; I will practice on some lower-value coins first and see what happens.
<< <i>What do you think the numerical grade will be? And finally, where did you find it (original boxed set, assembled set, cracked out of a slab or a raw single)? >>
I will guess at least where it sits now--PF66; as to where I found it, its an eBAY special, wound up paying $100 for it. I don't know the history of the coin; thank you for your interest and comments, very observant and helpful. Agree about those other dates; I do have a 59 that went 66CAM at NGC; that particular coin has no haze/toning, but much lighter frost than the posted 55, however.
1. Your coin has nice eye appeal and has toning that you may not want to remove (I would have to look at the coin in hand to get a feel for the toning and whether it adds to or detracts from the coin);
2. Your coin looks like it has nice undisturbed mirrored fields (though toning may hide hairlines and/or other blemishes on the fields);
3. The devices on the obverse and reverse of your coin are frosted and it appears the frost is more intense on the reverse devices. Whether the obverse devices are sufficiently frosted to have a chance at a CAM designation, I do not know and could not even beging to guess without looking at the coin in hand;
4. If you prefer an untoned coin and/or if you prefer a cameo coin, then that preference may justify cracking the coin out of the ANACS holder and having the toning removed. Doing so will eliminate what now is (as far as I can tell from the picture) an eye appealing toned proof franklin with some cameo contrast. Again this is a personal choice that you as the owner of the coin can and should make (I dipped a purple and yellow toned 1951 Cameo Proof Franklin a few years ago because I like the untoned look, however I still remenber the coloring of the toning and at times regret dipping the coin);
5. If you choose to crack the coin out of the holder and remove the toning, consider having the dipping done by someone with experience [i.e. NCS] if you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself (i.e. having done so many times in the past on run of the mill toned proof coins that you can afford to experiement with); and
6. Before you decide to crack and dip, evaluate the numercial grade of the coin and determine if the assigned PF66 grade is high, low or right on the money. If the grade is high so that on cracking, dipping and resubmitting you risk not getting a CAM designation and risk getting a grade lower than 66, you may decide to leave the coin the way that it is.
Anyway those are my thoughts. Also I am jealous that you have a 1959 NCG PF66 CAM Frankie. Did you find it raw and submit it for grading (if so, outstanding job on your part) or did you buy it slabbed?
<< <i>Is there a Deep Cameo under the haze? >>
I believe so!