I simply beat them with a hammer while wearing eye protection, I hold them on the sides and hammer away, usuallt they split enough to where you can then open them with your hands. Wear eye protection so nothing flys into your eye...
Be Bop A Lula!! "Senorita HepKitty" "I want a real cool Kitty from Hepcat City, to stay in step with me" - Bill Carter
Use Vise Grips all the around the sealed section. Tighten them enough untill you hear the plastic crack. Then just pry apart. Use your glasses to protect your eyes like Lucy said.
I use wire cutters (with the exception of SEGS slabs - they take a damn jigsaw). Two cuts with the wire cutters and that's all there is to it. I never go to a show without it.
Hammer. Quickest, simplest, easiest and it's what the professional crackout artists use. While all you guys who use saws and vices and snips and wire cutters are still working on your first slab, I'll have five cracked out.
The time I take and the sophisication of the tools I use is directly proportional to the value of the coin inside. Cheap coin in cheap slab, wrap in a clean towel, take hammer and coin to concrete surface, tap tap, done in seconds. Expensive coin, man I go slooow, cut a little, pry a little, cut a little more, pry a little more, gently, gently.....
Lets have a crackout contest right next to the grading contest, with 40 PCGS slabs. BYOT (bring your own tools)---------------------------------------------BigE
I use a hammer and a roofing nail. Place nail on top center of the slab and whack away. Once top is cracked repeat on the bottom of slab. Be careful of course!!!
NGC & ANACS slabs I use a rock hammer & a flathead screwdriver. Stand the slab up, left hand screwdriver & right hand hammer. Tap gently at top center, continue cracking with the screwdriver around the sides until white plastic insert is free...PCGS slabs, I use wire snips..start on the right side of slab just below the tag insert, snip in vertical position and 90% of the time if snipped correctly, the slab will make a clean crack straight across. Take the flathead screwdriver, insert it in the opened crevace, turn clockwise and crack away. You might, on some occasions, need to use the wire snips toward the bottom. This is how I've found it doesn't damage the coin. I finally had to take the advice from forum members instead of doing it my way. My way was 4 foot, heavy duty chain link cutters which annihilated the slab...
What is money, in reality, but dirty pieces of paper and metal upon which privilege is stamped?
Great old thread. I have only cracked about a dozen holders. Use two pair of heavy linesman pliers and even heavier gloves and goggles. Hard snap lengthwise is quick and effective.
I used to use a hammer but don't even use that anymore.
I have a fiendishly simple and quick method that doesn't even require any tools (though a pair of pliers can come in handy).
I just take the slab out to my front porch, insert the top (label) portion between two of the boards so about maybe half an inch of it is in the gap, then use the leverage to crack the slab by pushing it in one direction, usually with my shoe, or sometimes with my hand. (Though I do wear a heavy leather work glove if the latter, because one doesn't want plastic shards sticking in one's hand).
Try it, if you've got a porch or deck with spaces between the boards or slabs. Super easy.
Once you've cracked the top of the slab off, if the two halves around the coin are still in one piece, you can gingerly use a pair of pliers or a table knife to separate them. I can usually have a coin out with a single crack, in something like three or four seconds.
Tape it to a board and from 200 yards away shoot the corners off with a . .458 Winchester Magnum. Works every time. If you miss, you get a "holed coin".
<< <i>I simply beat them with a hammer while wearing eye protection, I hold them on the sides and hammer away, usuallt they split enough to where you can then open them with your hands. Wear eye protection so nothing flys into your eye... >>
But I keep a towel around and under the slab before I smack it.
Good grief, didn't see that some one regurgitated a 10 year old thread...I have no idea and have never removed a coin from the "new slabs."
"Bongo drive 1984 Lincoln that looks like old coin dug from ground."
My solution for cracking a slab, any slab, is simply to submit it to PCGS for grading. Have not tried to crack a slab at home for about fifteen years. Mind you, the coins I bought the last fifteen years are worth a lot more than the coins I bought prior.
I collect Capped Bust series by variety in PCGS AU/MS grades.
<< <i>My solution for cracking a slab, any slab, is simply to submit it to PCGS for grading. Have not tried to crack a slab at home for about fifteen years. Mind you, the coins I bought the last fifteen years are worth a lot more than the coins I bought prior. >>
Wait ... that doesn't make sense. My understanding is that the cracking / resubmission game only pays off on big coins. As a dealer, if you crack a $50 coin and it goes up a grade to $65 you lost. But crack a big coin worth $2,500 and go up a grade to $4,000-5,000, you profit thousands. So why would you not crack higher-end coins? unless you are confident they are graded accurately. But we all know the market grades go up a bit over time. Especially with the + mark.
Tin snips or similar at the middle of a PCGS slab, and for ngc squeeze the slab along the seam with a vice and it will pop open. Old anacs slabs snip along middle of slab and the whole slab should crack in half horizontally. Segs slabs are indestructible (only half kidding).
Comments
"Senorita HepKitty"
"I want a real cool Kitty from Hepcat City, to stay in step with me" - Bill Carter
-Atomic
Vladimir: That's what you think.
- Samuel Beckett, Waiting For Godot
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
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The big O
Russ, NCNE
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
At what distance do you place the slab when using that method?
Do you use a bench vise for the M-1?
I am quite sure it is a clean break anyhow.
In Laurel
MD
Just a fist full of Dollars
Heehe really I just lay then on edge on a concrete floor & lightly beat them along the seam with my 28oz waffleface Estwing hammer.
Andy, you're funny
Funny??? I thought I was obnoxious.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
A very good friend told me about them. I'll never go back to the hammer!
Good Luck!
Gandyjai
<< <i>
Mr. Red X, your "pictures" aren't linked to files, look at 'em. They're linked to directories. That doesn't work.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
I notice down at the bottom of the label needs some extra cuts before prying open or it cracks horizontally across instead of down the seam.
She throws,
I duck,
Slab hits wall,
Slab falls apart,
Coin lands softly on the carpet,
Repeat as necessary.
bob
I have a fiendishly simple and quick method that doesn't even require any tools (though a pair of pliers can come in handy).
I just take the slab out to my front porch, insert the top (label) portion between two of the boards so about maybe half an inch of it is in the gap, then use the leverage to crack the slab by pushing it in one direction, usually with my shoe, or sometimes with my hand. (Though I do wear a heavy leather work glove if the latter, because one doesn't want plastic shards sticking in one's hand).
Try it, if you've got a porch or deck with spaces between the boards or slabs. Super easy.
Once you've cracked the top of the slab off, if the two halves around the coin are still in one piece, you can gingerly use a pair of pliers or a table knife to separate them. I can usually have a coin out with a single crack, in something like three or four seconds.
.458 Winchester Magnum. Works every time. If you miss, you get a "holed coin".
Amat Colligendo Focum
Top 10 • FOR SALE
<< <i>I simply beat them with a hammer while wearing eye protection, I hold them on the sides and hammer away, usuallt they split enough to where you can then open them with your hands. Wear eye protection so nothing flys into your eye... >>
But I keep a towel around and under the slab before I smack it.
Good grief, didn't see that some one regurgitated a 10 year old thread...I have no idea and have never removed a coin from the "new slabs."
Steve
<< <i>My solution for cracking a slab, any slab, is simply to submit it to PCGS for grading. Have not tried to crack a slab at home for about fifteen years. Mind you, the coins I bought the last fifteen years are worth a lot more than the coins I bought prior. >>
Wait ... that doesn't make sense. My understanding is that the cracking / resubmission game only pays off on big coins. As a dealer, if you crack a $50 coin and it goes up a grade to $65 you lost. But crack a big coin worth $2,500 and go up a grade to $4,000-5,000, you profit thousands. So why would you not crack higher-end coins? unless you are confident they are graded accurately. But we all know the market grades go up a bit over time. Especially with the + mark.
Amat Colligendo Focum
Top 10 • FOR SALE
I use : End Nippers
You just use them on either side of the coin in the slab and it pulls apart in two whole pieces.
There's no shattering, shards, or anything like that.
-D
-Aristotle
Dum loquimur fugerit invida aetas. Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero.
-Horace
Lance.