Is there anybody here that does slab restoration?

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USMarine6
USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
in U.S. Coin Forum

I've got this OGH that I would like to have some work done to the slab. I just don't trust myself to do it. It almost seems like something was spilled on it around the label area and then dried.

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  • coinbuf
    coinbuf Posts: 12,567 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited April 18, 2026 3:30PM
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    You should be able to fix that with a bit of PlastX plastic polish.

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  • Smudge
    Smudge Posts: 10,001 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Since it doesn’t affect the view of the coin, I would be inclined to leave it alone.

  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @coinbuf said:
    You should be able to fix that with a bit of PlastX plastic polish.

    I did try a little bit of that but it didn't make a difference

  • coinbuf
    coinbuf Posts: 12,567 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Perhaps something got on it that stained/slightly melted the plastic. It may be permanent in that case.

    My Lincoln Registry
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  • relicsncoins
    relicsncoins Posts: 8,301 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Maybe one of those headlight restore kits.

    Need a Barber Half with ANACS photo certificate. If you have one for sale please PM me. Current Ebay auctions
  • ProofCollection
    ProofCollection Posts: 8,056 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    I wish someone would come up with and document a mechanical process for doing this. I'm sure there is a way. I've had OK results with PlastX. Maybe I don't have enough patience to rub it long enough, but one would think that there's a way to get rood results with a polishing wheel or die grinder with the right attachment. I just haven't tried it.

  • smuglr
    smuglr Posts: 579 ✭✭✭✭
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    It is difficult to tell, this almost looks like the plastic has been damaged within. If it is just on the outside surface, regular toothpaste (not gel) preferably with baking soda is used to clean and restore headlight lenses, that might help.

  • MsMorrisine
    MsMorrisine Posts: 40,041 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    grinders and grinders and dremels turn too fast and will heat the plastic. it can damage the plastic such that it can't be restored. perhaps it was done here

    have you tried plastx and a toothbrush?

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  • yosclimber
    yosclimber Posts: 5,322 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @ProofCollection said:
    I wish someone would come up with and document a mechanical process for doing this. I'm sure there is a way. I've had OK results with PlastX. Maybe I don't have enough patience to rub it long enough, but one would think that there's a way to get rood results with a polishing wheel or die grinder with the right attachment. I just haven't tried it.

    https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/947337/restoring-scratched-slabs-version-2-1-new-improved

  • BillJones
    BillJones Posts: 35,933 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @USMarine6 said:

    @coinbuf said:
    You should be able to fix that with a bit of PlastX plastic polish.

    I did try a little bit of that but it didn't make a difference

    I used some this week to remove scratches from a slab window. You can whiz a slab, but not a coin. ;)

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • Torey
    Torey Posts: 410 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    I've had excellent results with a buffing wheel on a drill with Slab Renew. They no longer sell Slab Renew, but I imagine you could use Plastx the same way. Don't go full speed, but put a little pressure behind it. Stay away from holograms, gold embossing, CAC stickers, etc. If it's small surface scratches, it's relatively quick, but deeper scratches will take multiple buffing sessions. I can't exactly tell what your damage is; hopefully, it's not too deep to save but @TomB could be right that something like acetone spilled on it.

    I've done this method with many of my OGHs and NGC 2.0-2.1's, not saying that everything is fixable, but it's amazing what a little elbow grease will do.

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  • Floridafacelifter
    Floridafacelifter Posts: 1,401 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Have PCGS reholder it for you

  • Goldbully
    Goldbully Posts: 18,557 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @Torey said:
    I've had excellent results with a buffing wheel on a drill with Slab Renew. They no longer sell Slab Renew, but I imagine you could use Plastx the same way. Don't go full speed, but put a little pressure behind it. Stay away from holograms, gold embossing, CAC stickers, etc. If it's small surface scratches, it's relatively quick, but deeper scratches will take multiple buffing sessions. I can't exactly tell what your damage is; hopefully, it's not too deep to save but @TomB could be right that something like acetone spilled on it.

    I've done this method with many of my OGHs and NGC 2.0-2.1's, not saying that everything is fixable, but it's amazing what a little elbow grease will do.

    I believe that product has been discontinued......I loved it.

  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @TomB said:
    Looks like some acetone spilled on it at one time.

    Now that you mention it I think this may be case case

  • Batman23
    Batman23 Posts: 5,473 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Nice half. Looks like obverse 7 to me. WB-9 or WB-10?

    The plastic looks like it chemically etched. If deep, you might need a polishing wheel and extremes like in the link yosclimber posted above. Maybe someone should start up a side hobby of restoring old collectible slabs.

  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @Batman23 said:
    Nice half. Looks like obverse 7 to me. WB-9 or WB-10?

    The plastic looks like it chemically etched. If deep, you might need a polishing wheel and extremes like in the link yosclimber posted above. Maybe someone should start up a side hobby of restoring old collectible slabs.

    Yes I was hoping to find someone here that does just that

  • fiftysevener
    fiftysevener Posts: 943 ✭✭✭✭
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    Why not get it reholdered ?

  • Walkerfan
    Walkerfan Posts: 10,391 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @fiftysevener said:
    Why not get it reholdered ?

    Because he likes the OGH and doesn’t want to lose it.

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  • fiftysevener
    fiftysevener Posts: 943 ✭✭✭✭
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    A new slab should have the same label and a holder that would be less likely to allow the coin to rotate.

  • coinbuf
    coinbuf Posts: 12,567 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @fiftysevener said:
    A new slab should have the same label and a holder that would be less likely to allow the coin to rotate.

    You are kidding, right?

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  • Morgan13
    Morgan13 Posts: 2,692 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    I would get it reordered. That would drive me nuts.
    I like the gold shield most of all

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  • fiftysevener
    fiftysevener Posts: 943 ✭✭✭✭
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    Sorry, not the same label but same numbers.

  • coinbuf
    coinbuf Posts: 12,567 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @fiftysevener said:
    Sorry, not the same label but same numbers.

    So you think it would be a good decision to lose the OGH label (and the potential price bump that has) for a new non special holder so it does not rotate?? Why do you think the coin rotates in this holder? This is not a rattler holder.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • fiftysevener
    fiftysevener Posts: 943 ✭✭✭✭
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    There may be a ring insert in that one but they still somehow rotate. They weren't left rotated when originally holdered. So for me yes I would rather have an old NGC fatty reholdered in new plastic with the original number which allows me to view the coin without it feeling like sleepers in my eyes.

  • coinbuf
    coinbuf Posts: 12,567 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @fiftysevener said:
    There may be a ring insert in that one but they still somehow rotate. They weren't left rotated when originally holdered. So for me yes I would rather have an old NGC fatty reholdered in new plastic with the original number which allows me to view the coin without it feeling like sleepers in my eyes.

    I have seen on many occasions a brand new PCGS holder with the coin rotated as much or more than what you see in the op photos. Contrary to your assertion PCGS does not always get the coin perfectly straight when placing into the holder.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @Walkerfan said:

    @fiftysevener said:
    Why not get it reholdered ?

    Because he likes the OGH and doesn’t want to lose it.

    This

  • Old_Collector
    Old_Collector Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @USMarine6 said:

    @Walkerfan said:

    @fiftysevener said:
    Why not get it reholdered ?

    Because he likes the OGH and doesn’t want to lose it.

    This

    I use Novus plastic cleaning compound, comes in 3 bottles, which I use on my pinball machines to buff out any scratches on the plastic coating of the field. But PlastX should work just as well with effort. It takes a lot of work, it is not just a quick rub. (like some long days)

    But the location here looks to be extremely difficult other than the flat surface over the label, if possible at all and does look to me like it was an acetone spill or another agent that similarly attacks plastic. You should be able to buff out the flat plastic area over the label, but there is no way to repair the seams and edges, and that seems to run down the edge of the holder to the bottom half of the left side.

    You will have to live with just improving the label area, or reholder, you will not get that holder anywhere near back to normal looking otherwise. Looks like a Gen 3.1 or 3.0, so at least not a highly valuable holder. Your call.

  • BryceM
    BryceM Posts: 11,940 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Well, I'm happy to see someone posted a link the the thread I made about this. It's pretty easy to do.

    To the OP, shoot me a PM, if you want. It should be easy to improve that slab considerably.

  • DesertCoin
    DesertCoin Posts: 481 ✭✭✭
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    @Torey said:
    I've had excellent results with a buffing wheel on a drill with Slab Renew. They no longer sell Slab Renew, but I imagine you could use Plastx the same way. Don't go full speed, but put a little pressure behind it. Stay away from holograms, gold embossing, CAC stickers, etc. If it's small surface scratches, it's relatively quick, but deeper scratches will take multiple buffing sessions. I can't exactly tell what your damage is; hopefully, it's not too deep to save but @TomB could be right that something like acetone spilled on it.

    I've done this method with many of my OGHs and NGC 2.0-2.1's, not saying that everything is fixable, but it's amazing what a little elbow grease will do.

    I knew this stuff existed, just couldn't find it! That explains that...

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  • leothelyon
    leothelyon Posts: 8,568 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    With a miniature Dremel tool with the right attachments will speed up the process!

    Leo

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  • Torey
    Torey Posts: 410 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Wow, nice results @BryceM , great job.

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  • JeffersonFrog
    JeffersonFrog Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Another example of why these Boards are such a valuable resource.

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  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @JeffersonFrog said:
    Another example of why these Boards are such a valuable resource.

    Absolutely!!

    I had never even talked to Bryce before but he was willing to help out a perfect stranger. Great forum with great people. Thanks again Bryce.

  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Now if he could only improve the coin ;)

  • Batman23
    Batman23 Posts: 5,473 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Job well done Bryce. You worked some magic, she looks like a keeper again.

  • RedRocket
    RedRocket Posts: 1,923 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @USMarine6 said:
    Now if he could only improve the coin ;)

    I know you're being factious, yet it does look cleaned, no?

  • USMarine6
    USMarine6 Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    @RedRocket said:

    @USMarine6 said:
    Now if he could only improve the coin ;)

    I know you're being factious, yet it does look cleaned, no?

    I would call it slightly processed ;)

  • ProofCollection
    ProofCollection Posts: 8,056 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited June 23, 2026 4:53PM
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    Coin: XF40
    Slab: Details scratched ==> Details cleaned.

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