I've also kicked around the idea of resubmitting but only after cracking out. It's hard for me to believe that if I sent a designated cleaned coin to PCGS for reconsideration that their mind would change knowing it had a prior designation as "cleaned".
I'm convinced that, more often than not, "cleaned" designation is a determination involving more guesswork than anything else. It's like "oh yeah? who says?" I think "cleaned", the word, should be done away with on holder labels for being too subjective.
From now on, all TPGs will instead use the designation "harschely cleaned" in your honor.
oh yeah? Are you spokesperson now for all TPGs? I have been giving consideration to having some of my 1909-S pennies given Harsche numbers on the label. Do I have to pay extra to have that done? If anybody would know it would be you.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
My opinion is that Tramp's pictured 1916-D dime has not been cleaned but sending it in for reconsideration is not something I would do if it were my coin. There are a few good reasons to crack a coin out of it's slab and Tramp's coin in it's labelled as "cleaned" holder is one of the best examples I've ever seen for a reason to crack a coin out of TPG slab. It's got a verification as authentic number. That's all it needs. The piece speaks for itself and definitely is not screaming "cleaned" to me.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
I've also kicked around the idea of resubmitting but only after cracking out. It's hard for me to believe that if I sent a designated cleaned coin to PCGS for reconsideration that their mind would change knowing it had a prior designation as "cleaned".
I'm convinced that, more often than not, "cleaned" designation is a determination involving more guesswork than anything else. It's like "oh yeah? who says?" I think "cleaned", the word, should be done away with on holder labels for being too subjective.
From now on, all TPGs will instead use the designation "harschely cleaned" in your honor.
oh yeah? Are you spokesperson now for all TPGs? I have been giving consideration to having some of my 1909-S pennies given Harsche numbers on the label. Do I have to pay extra to have that done? If anybody would know it would be you.
Edited to add: I apologize, as my reply below were about the coin which @NerdsLTD has posted.
@mr1931S said:
My opinion is that Tramp's pictured 1916-D dime has not been cleaned but sending it in for reconsideration is not something I would do if it were my coin. There are a few good reasons to crack a coin out of it's slab and Tramp's coin in it's labelled as "cleaned" holder is one of the best examples I've ever seen for a reason to crack a coin out of TPG slab. It's got a verification as authentic number. That's all it needs. The piece speaks for itself and definitely is not screaming "cleaned" to me.
While the coin doesn’t look cleaned to you, it does to multiple other posters who viewed the same images you did. And more importantly, it looked cleaned to the PCGS graders who examined the coin in hand.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
While the coin doesn’t look cleaned to you, it does to multiple other posters who viewed the same images you did. And more importantly, it looked cleaned to the PCGS graders who examined the coin in hand.
Does it look cleaned to you? The Truviews aren't screaming cleaned to me and I've given my opinion. But what's your opinion from viewing the Truviews?
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
Edited to add: I apologize, as my reply below were about the coin which @NerdsLTD has posted.
@mr1931S said: While the coin doesn’t look cleaned to you, it does to multiple other posters who viewed the same images you did. And more importantly, it looked cleaned to the PCGS graders who examined the coin in hand.
Does it look cleaned to you? The Truviews aren't screaming cleaned to me and I've given my opinion. But what's your opinion from viewing the Truviews?
Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Okay, that's your opinion. If this were my coin it would get precision cracked out of it's slab with my Dremel. I would make an 8x10 glossy of the Truview to hang on the wall near my coin inspection station. I call the coin choice au and rather like the natural light russet toning it has. This piece would look great in an album with the rest of my au and bu Mercury dimes.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
@mr1931S said: Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Okay, that's your opinion. If this were my coin it would get precision cracked out of it's slab with my Dremel. I would make an 8x10 glossy of the Truview to hang on the wall near my coin inspection station. I call the coin choice au and rather like the natural light russet toning it has. This piece would look great in album with the rest of my au and bu Mercury dimes.
I've also kicked around the idea of resubmitting but only after cracking out. It's hard for me to believe that if I sent a designated cleaned coin to PCGS for reconsideration that their mind would change knowing it had a prior designation as "cleaned".
@tradedollarnut said:
Honestly, I’d crack and stick it on a sunny window sill for about 4 months. Turn it over every month so each side gets 60 days.
Help me understand. What is the rationale behind this? Is it the heat or the light or both? What would such a treatment accomplish that couldn’t be accomplished in the slab?
I'm happy that at least you're not busy desecrating images of iconic Rockwell paintings by limiting your silliness to altering my sig line in your posts to say what you want it to say.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
@DisneyFan said:
Given that you would like to sell the complete collection, and assuming all coins have not been sent to PCGS, it would seem worthwhile for you to show the collection to dealers in person. Where are you located?
In Albuquerque, NM.
The dealers here so far have stuck to the, low-ball-and-see-what-happens-approach. New Mexico is one of the poorest states in the union and I am guessing people don’t show them coins unless they are desperate to sell. As such, I’m guessing, this strategy has a much higher success rate here than it would anywhere else. I am in no hurry.
@tradedollarnut said:
Honestly, I’d crack and stick it on a sunny window sill for about 4 months. Turn it over every month so each side gets 60 days.
Help me understand. What is the rationale behind this? Is it the heat or the light or both? What would such a treatment accomplish that couldn’t be accomplished in the slab?
It’s a natural acceleration of toning that covers cleaning. I had a trade dollar that came back cleaned - did this and it graded. Puts a natural surface over the unnatural surface
@tradedollarnut said:
Honestly, I’d crack and stick it on a sunny window sill for about 4 months. Turn it over every month so each side gets 60 days.
Help me understand. What is the rationale behind this? Is it the heat or the light or both? What would such a treatment accomplish that couldn’t be accomplished in the slab?
It’s a natural acceleration of toning that covers cleaning. I had a trade dollar that came back cleaned - did this and it graded Puts a natural surface over the unnatural surface
Gotcha. I'll whip out the macro lens and see if I can't give a few more views.
@mr1931S said: Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Okay, that's your opinion. If this were my coin it would get precision cracked out of it's slab with my Dremel. I would make an 8x10 glossy of the Truview to hang on the wall near my coin inspection station. I call the coin choice au and rather like the natural light russet toning it has. This piece would look great in an album with the rest of my au and bu Mercury dimes.
Don't you mean your collection of VF and XF dimes?
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
@tradedollarnut said:
Honestly, I’d crack and stick it on a sunny window sill for about 4 months. Turn it over every month so each side gets 60 days.
Help me understand. What is the rationale behind this? Is it the heat or the light or both? What would such a treatment accomplish that couldn’t be accomplished in the slab?
It’s a natural acceleration of toning that covers cleaning. I had a trade dollar that came back cleaned - did this and it graded. Puts a natural surface over the unnatural surface
Is there or are there any chemical treatments prior to putting the coin on a window sill for four months that would be helpful? Acetone soak comes to mind but I'm not saying it's the thing to do. All that's going to do is remove oil from the piece but are there known prior treatments to help ensure that Nerds gets the best result possible from the window sill method of restoration?
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
@DisneyFan said:
Given that you would like to sell the complete collection, and assuming all coins have not been sent to PCGS, it would seem worthwhile for you to show the collection to dealers in person. Where are you located?
In Albuquerque, NM.
The dealers here so far have stuck to the, low-ball-and-see-what-happens-approach. New Mexico is one of the poorest states in the union and I am guessing people don’t show them coins unless they are desperate to sell. As such, I’m guessing, this strategy has a much higher success rate here than it would anywhere else. I am in no hurry.
That's helpful.
From reading your earlier posts it appears there are several collections, you made an effort to be knowledgeable, and have really tried to understand the coin market. You've also stated you are considering becoming a collector yourself.
There is no magic trick to get the highest and best prices for the coins. Local dealers can buy nominal value coins at today's high melt values. GC can sell the key and semikey coins for fair prices at auction with minimal commissions and quick payments. It could also be worthwhile to submit a list of these key and semikey coins to our frequent contributor, Mark Feld, at Heritage whom I found makes very competitive to auction offers.
Another option is to make what you consider a fair offer, as you say, somewhere between retail and wholesale, to the owner(s) and enjoy the collection.
@DisneyFan said:
Given that you would like to sell the complete collection, and assuming all coins have not been sent to PCGS, it would seem worthwhile for you to show the collection to dealers in person. Where are you located?
In Albuquerque, NM.
The dealers here so far have stuck to the, low-ball-and-see-what-happens-approach. New Mexico is one of the poorest states in the union and I am guessing people don’t show them coins unless they are desperate to sell. As such, I’m guessing, this strategy has a much higher success rate here than it would anywhere else. I am in no hurry.
That's helpful.
From reading your earlier posts it appears there are several collections, you made an effort to be knowledgeable, and have really tried to understand the coin market. You've also stated you are considering becoming a collector yourself.
There is no magic trick to get the highest and best prices for the coins. Local dealers can buy nominal value coins at today's high melt values. GC can sell the key and semikey coins for fair prices at auction with minimal commissions and quick payments. It could also be worthwhile to submit a list of these key and semikey coins to our frequent contributor, Mark Feld, at Heritage whom I found makes very competitive to auction offers.
Another option is to make what you consider a fair offer, as you say, somewhere between retail and wholesale, to the owner(s) and enjoy the collection.
Thank you for taking the time to read it all. Nearly everything key and semi- key has been graded. There's an unc set of 1932-1964 Washington Quarters including original sales receipts from Stacks NYC in the 60s. The Indian Head Cents are nearly all graded. The only set I haven't sent keys off to are the '32-64 XF-AU Washington Quarters. Perhaps just the 32-D & 32-S. I'll reach out to him. Is he on the forum or should I reach out directly? I'm guessing you're saying he'll make an offer akin to having Heritage auction them.
@mr1931S said:
My opinion is that Tramp's pictured 1916-D dime has not been cleaned but sending it in for reconsideration is not something I would do if it were my coin. There are a few good reasons to crack a coin out of it's slab and Tramp's coin in it's labelled as "cleaned" holder is one of the best examples I've ever seen for a reason to crack a coin out of TPG slab. It's got a verification as authentic number. That's all it needs. The piece speaks for itself and definitely is not screaming "cleaned" to me.
@Tramp your coin looks much better than mine. hands down.
I would not do this window-sill thing to this coin. You'll end up with two types of toning from two different environments and it's likely they'll catch it and add a "questionable toning" to the details label. If the coin was toneless, near white coin, recently cleaned, yeah, sure, give it a shot! I've done this to lower grade lightly cleaned MS60 to MS64 coins that had an ugly haze of some sort to enhance them. But not anything that I'd send in for grading. The window-sill basting will add a light to brown gold toning depends on how long the experiment lasts, exposed to that environment. It might do better during the summer months than winter. Toning depends upon the amount of humidity in the air taking place at the time. Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
From reading your earlier posts it appears there are several collections, you made an effort to be knowledgeable, and have really tried to understand the coin market. You've also stated you are considering becoming a collector yourself.
There is no magic trick to get the highest and best prices for the coins. Local dealers can buy nominal value coins at today's high melt values. GC can sell the key and semikey coins for fair prices at auction with minimal commissions and quick payments. It could also be worthwhile to submit a list of these key and semikey coins to our frequent contributor, Mark Feld, at Heritage whom I found makes very competitive to auction offers.
Another option is to make what you consider a fair offer, as you say, somewhere between retail and wholesale, to the owner(s) and enjoy the collection.
Thank you for taking the time to read it all. Nearly everything key and semi- key has been graded. There's an unc set of 1932-1964 Washington Quarters including original sales receipts from Stacks NYC in the 60s. The Indian Head Cents are nearly all graded. The only set I haven't sent keys off to are the '32-64 XF-AU Washington Quarters. Perhaps just the 32-D & 32-S. I'll reach out to him. Is he on the forum or should I reach out directly? I'm guessing you're saying he'll make an offer akin to having Heritage auction them.
Edited to add: I apologize, as my reply below were about the coin which @NerdsLTD has posted.
@mr1931S said: While the coin doesn’t look cleaned to you, it does to multiple other posters who viewed the same images you did. And more importantly, it looked cleaned to the PCGS graders who examined the coin in hand.
Does it look cleaned to you? The Truviews aren't screaming cleaned to me and I've given my opinion. But what's your opinion from viewing the Truviews?
Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
You can private message him or contact him via the forum
@leothelyon said:
I would not do this window-sill thing to this coin. You'll end up with two types of toning from two different environments and it's likely they'll catch it and add a "questionable toning" to the details label. If the coin was toneless, near white coin, recently cleaned, yeah, sure, give it a shot! I've done this to lower grade lightly cleaned MS60 to MS64 coins that had an ugly haze of some sort to enhance them. But not anything that I'd send in for grading. The window-sill basting will add a light to brown gold toning depends on how long the experiment lasts, exposed to that environment. It might do better during the summer months than winter. Toning depends upon the amount of humidity in the air taking place at the time. Leo
Oh I’m talking about the white one pictured in the thread
@leothelyon said:
I would not do this window-sill thing to this coin. You'll end up with two types of toning from two different environments and it's likely they'll catch it and add a "questionable toning" to the details label. If the coin was toneless, near white coin, recently cleaned, yeah, sure, give it a shot! I've done this to lower grade lightly cleaned MS60 to MS64 coins that had an ugly haze of some sort to enhance them. But not anything that I'd send in for grading. The window-sill basting will add a light to brown gold toning depends on how long the experiment lasts, exposed to that environment. It might do better during the summer months than winter. Toning depends upon the amount of humidity in the air taking place at the time. Leo
You are saying it's kind of a crapshoot for Nerds to be doing the window sill thing then. Nerds would need to take the extra step of treating the coin chemically to remove old toning essentially starting over with the piece by making it white is what you are saying? I agree that would be a very tough decision to make. Is it worth the risk? Nerds' coin is tending to being more moderately, not lightly, circulated so golden , or russet, or brown tones after window silling might make his coin look strange to a potental buyer? I'm actually seeing traces of mint luster on the au details piece appearing in this thread. Mercury dimes that are uncirculated to lightly circulated often have those golden hues. Dime gets wear to the point of xf and lower and those golden hints associated with mint luster disappear. In light of your remarks, I would agree with a decision to "let the coin be." Ask xf details money for it and be patient trying to get it. An experienced collector will either find the coin acceptable for his /her collection or not. All Nerds needs is one serious buyer who likes what he or she sees with the "meatiness" of his '16-D, cleaned designation notwithstanding.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
After reading this entire thread, I agree with the others that consigning to GC for the 16-D dime would be the best option. Please don't try to add additional toning to a coin that is okay for what it is.
Lastly, purely my opinion on timing, I'd consign it now in case the coin market dives as a result of the general economic climate. Maximize your opportunity, I say.
Seated Half Society member #38
"She comes out of the sun in a silk dress, running like a water color in the rain...."
@mr1931S said: Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Okay, that's your opinion. If this were my coin it would get precision cracked out of it's slab with my Dremel. I would make an 8x10 glossy of the Truview to hang on the wall near my coin inspection station. I call the coin choice au and rather like the natural light russet toning it has. This piece would look great in an album with the rest of my au and bu Mercury dimes.
Don't you mean your collection of VF and XF dimes?
No, I mean my collection of au and bu dimes. I go with FB pieces for bu and my au's should have mint luster with bands well-defined for me to get excited about it. I have a '45 with 3/4 of full center bands. I cherry picked it out of a triple row box at the coin store. I'm in the process now of evaluating my collecting interests. What am I trying to do with my coin collecting is the question i've been asking myself. '16-D, especially in nicer grade, say VF or better, is a stopper for me in Mercury dime series. Probably is for you too, eh?
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
The images you provided of your coin make it appear it has pretty evident cleaning lines and that it likely, in my experience and opinion, acquired a secondary toning through natural means. In other words, someone cleaned it up aggressively at one point to make it bright, but then it sat undisturbed in an album for years or decades and gradually toned on its own afterward.
I'm still of a mind to simply list it on GC, take your funds and be done with it. If I recall correctly, GC charges a buyer's fee (aka; really a seller's fee) of 12.5% or 10%, depending upon payment method, and a coin that sells for $1k or more doesn't pay any additional fees. Of course, you can still ask the best way to sell the coin every few days until the piece is 109-years older than it is now, but that is up to you.
Answers
oh yeah? Are you spokesperson now for all TPGs? I have been giving consideration to having some of my 1909-S pennies given Harsche numbers on the label. Do I have to pay extra to have that done? If anybody would know it would be you.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
My opinion is that Tramp's pictured 1916-D dime has not been cleaned but sending it in for reconsideration is not something I would do if it were my coin. There are a few good reasons to crack a coin out of it's slab and Tramp's coin in it's labelled as "cleaned" holder is one of the best examples I've ever seen for a reason to crack a coin out of TPG slab. It's got a verification as authentic number. That's all it needs. The piece speaks for itself and definitely is not screaming "cleaned" to me.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
What's the deal with your signature line?
Edited to add: I apologize, as my reply below were about the coin which @NerdsLTD has posted.
While the coin doesn’t look cleaned to you, it does to multiple other posters who viewed the same images you did. And more importantly, it looked cleaned to the PCGS graders who examined the coin in hand.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
While the coin doesn’t look cleaned to you, it does to multiple other posters who viewed the same images you did. And more importantly, it looked cleaned to the PCGS graders who examined the coin in hand.
Does it look cleaned to you? The Truviews aren't screaming cleaned to me and I've given my opinion. But what's your opinion from viewing the Truviews?
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
Edited to add: I apologize, as my reply below were about the coin which @NerdsLTD has posted.
Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Yes, it looks cleaned to me, due to the noticeably darker protected areas at the periphery of each side, as well as the lighter right-side obverse and left-side reverse fields.
Okay, that's your opinion. If this were my coin it would get precision cracked out of it's slab with my Dremel. I would make an 8x10 glossy of the Truview to hang on the wall near my coin inspection station. I call the coin choice au and rather like the natural light russet toning it has. This piece would look great in an album with the rest of my au and bu Mercury dimes.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
Fair point! I’m hoping for XF not a clean grade.
Thanks, MsMorrisine. It's nice to have your acceptance of my opinions.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
What are the one times set up fees GC collects?
Unless the coin has been in your possession since it came off the dies in 1916, it's pretty much all opinions.
Honestly, I’d crack and stick it on a sunny window sill for about 4 months. Turn it over every month so each side gets 60 days.
It definitely hasn’t. Are there any 109-year-olds amongst us? And no, yelling at kids to get off your lawn doesn’t make one over a century old. :-)
Help me understand. What is the rationale behind this? Is it the heat or the light or both? What would such a treatment accomplish that couldn’t be accomplished in the slab?
What's the deal with your signature line?
I'm happy that at least you're not busy desecrating images of iconic Rockwell paintings by limiting your silliness to altering my sig line in your posts to say what you want it to say.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
In Albuquerque, NM.
The dealers here so far have stuck to the, low-ball-and-see-what-happens-approach. New Mexico is one of the poorest states in the union and I am guessing people don’t show them coins unless they are desperate to sell. As such, I’m guessing, this strategy has a much higher success rate here than it would anywhere else. I am in no hurry.
It’s a natural acceleration of toning that covers cleaning. I had a trade dollar that came back cleaned - did this and it graded. Puts a natural surface over the unnatural surface
Gotcha. I'll whip out the macro lens and see if I can't give a few more views.
Here's a quick macro shot. I don't have my lighting rig set up, so this is natural light.
lighting set up needed
Don't you mean your collection of VF and XF dimes?
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
Looks cleaned and retoned.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
Is there or are there any chemical treatments prior to putting the coin on a window sill for four months that would be helpful? Acetone soak comes to mind but I'm not saying it's the thing to do. All that's going to do is remove oil from the piece but are there known prior treatments to help ensure that Nerds gets the best result possible from the window sill method of restoration?
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
That's helpful.
From reading your earlier posts it appears there are several collections, you made an effort to be knowledgeable, and have really tried to understand the coin market. You've also stated you are considering becoming a collector yourself.
There is no magic trick to get the highest and best prices for the coins. Local dealers can buy nominal value coins at today's high melt values. GC can sell the key and semikey coins for fair prices at auction with minimal commissions and quick payments. It could also be worthwhile to submit a list of these key and semikey coins to our frequent contributor, Mark Feld, at Heritage whom I found makes very competitive to auction offers.
Another option is to make what you consider a fair offer, as you say, somewhere between retail and wholesale, to the owner(s) and enjoy the collection.
Thank you for taking the time to read it all. Nearly everything key and semi- key has been graded. There's an unc set of 1932-1964 Washington Quarters including original sales receipts from Stacks NYC in the 60s. The Indian Head Cents are nearly all graded. The only set I haven't sent keys off to are the '32-64 XF-AU Washington Quarters. Perhaps just the 32-D & 32-S. I'll reach out to him. Is he on the forum or should I reach out directly? I'm guessing you're saying he'll make an offer akin to having Heritage auction them.
it took a little doing, but I finally got the backfocus right.
@Tramp your coin looks much better than mine. hands down.
I would not do this window-sill thing to this coin. You'll end up with two types of toning from two different environments and it's likely they'll catch it and add a "questionable toning" to the details label. If the coin was toneless, near white coin, recently cleaned, yeah, sure, give it a shot! I've done this to lower grade lightly cleaned MS60 to MS64 coins that had an ugly haze of some sort to enhance them. But not anything that I'd send in for grading. The window-sill basting will add a light to brown gold toning depends on how long the experiment lasts, exposed to that environment. It might do better during the summer months than winter. Toning depends upon the amount of humidity in the air taking place at the time. Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
Yes -
You can private message him or contact him via the forum
Oh I’m talking about the white one pictured in the thread
You are saying it's kind of a crapshoot for Nerds to be doing the window sill thing then. Nerds would need to take the extra step of treating the coin chemically to remove old toning essentially starting over with the piece by making it white is what you are saying? I agree that would be a very tough decision to make. Is it worth the risk? Nerds' coin is tending to being more moderately, not lightly, circulated so golden , or russet, or brown tones after window silling might make his coin look strange to a potental buyer? I'm actually seeing traces of mint luster on the au details piece appearing in this thread. Mercury dimes that are uncirculated to lightly circulated often have those golden hues. Dime gets wear to the point of xf and lower and those golden hints associated with mint luster disappear. In light of your remarks, I would agree with a decision to "let the coin be." Ask xf details money for it and be patient trying to get it. An experienced collector will either find the coin acceptable for his /her collection or not. All Nerds needs is one serious buyer who likes what he or she sees with the "meatiness" of his '16-D, cleaned designation notwithstanding.
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
After reading this entire thread, I agree with the others that consigning to GC for the 16-D dime would be the best option. Please don't try to add additional toning to a coin that is okay for what it is.
Lastly, purely my opinion on timing, I'd consign it now in case the coin market dives as a result of the general economic climate. Maximize your opportunity, I say.
"She comes out of the sun in a silk dress,
running like a water color in the rain...."
No, I mean my collection of au and bu dimes. I go with FB pieces for bu and my au's should have mint luster with bands well-defined for me to get excited about it. I have a '45 with 3/4 of full center bands. I cherry picked it out of a triple row box at the coin store. I'm in the process now of evaluating my collecting interests. What am I trying to do with my coin collecting is the question i've been asking myself. '16-D, especially in nicer grade, say VF or better, is a stopper for me in Mercury dime series. Probably is for you too, eh?
"A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new."
---Albert Einstein (b. 14Mar1879--d. 18Apr1955)
The images you provided of your coin make it appear it has pretty evident cleaning lines and that it likely, in my experience and opinion, acquired a secondary toning through natural means. In other words, someone cleaned it up aggressively at one point to make it bright, but then it sat undisturbed in an album for years or decades and gradually toned on its own afterward.
I'm still of a mind to simply list it on GC, take your funds and be done with it. If I recall correctly, GC charges a buyer's fee (aka; really a seller's fee) of 12.5% or 10%, depending upon payment method, and a coin that sells for $1k or more doesn't pay any additional fees. Of course, you can still ask the best way to sell the coin every few days until the piece is 109-years older than it is now, but that is up to you.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson