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IHC Purchase
Morgan13
Posts: 1,645 ✭✭✭✭✭
I have been searching high and low for a nice IHC. My budget was $500. This coin really drew me in. Way under budget but so beautiful. If you really spend a minute looking at it youll see why I liked it. The feathers have great color, Liberty has lots of blue and various other spots on the obverse and reverse I had to buy it! Northeast Numismatics always has something I want.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
13
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I bought this one raw for an album.
This is my type coin, which is a Proof.
Needed a bronze type so went with this MS65BN PCGS.CAC 1884
Glad you found one you're happy with. That's always a good feeling.
I'm a Northeast Numismatics fan too.
That is an excellent example. I notice that it graded MS64RB and their price was reasonable. Their image did not have enough resolution to tell if it could earn an Eagle Eye Photo Seal but it might.
@hbarbee what is photo seal?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
Rick Snow. Eagle Eye coins.
@jmlanzaf
Thanks for the quick answer.
What is the point of getting an eagle eye sticker?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
@Morgan13, @hbarbee, Rick Snow is the utmost authority concerning Flying Eagle and Indian Head cents and the Eagle Eye Photo Seal is affixed to your holder by him attesting to high quality of the coin in your holder. It’s basically his stamp of approval which is highly respected in the community. Here are examples of a FEC and IHC with EEPS.
Rick Snow's Eagle Eye Photo Seal pre-dates CAC by perhaps 15-years or so. Rick is one of the leading figures in IHCs and FEs. His service images the coin in the slab, provides a laminated photo of the coin in the slab with the sticker and then affixes a sticker to the slab. The slab and laminated card should be sold together, but many times the laminated card is lost to history. Rick only stickers and images coins that meet his standards.
If I recall correctly, CAC follows the same standards at EEPS for FEs and IHCs.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Thank you guys for taking the time for a clear understanding.
I appreciate it.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
They have different standards. That was a project of @winesteven
As my friend @DisneyFan points out, there are differences.
Several years ago, I put together the first IHC set where every coin merits both a CAC sticker and an Eagle Eye Photo Seal (and it might still be the only set). Redundant? Not really. I discovered that Rick Snow and John Albanese of CAC each weigh various factors differently. As a result, there are some coins with CAC stickers that Rick won’t Photo Seal, and some coins with Photo Seals that J.A. won’t apply his CAC sticker. For example, Rick places a heavier weighting on Die State than does JA, and Rick likes to see a strong strike on the first three feathertips. In my opinion, having a coin with both stickers is having the best of both worlds!
Each of those two experts has tremendous respect for each other! When a coin is submitted for CAC stickering, all stickers on the coin will be removed by them except for Rick Snows Photo Seals!
As @TomB correctly pointed out, for coins that Photo Seal, you get that roughly slab-sized plasticized card with a photo of the obverse slab with the new PS on the front of the card, and Rick’s signature on the reverse. In addition, you get three high quality digital photos to use - an obverse slab shot, an obverse photo, and a reverse photo. All for just a $15 fee in total (plus round trip shipping). And if your coin does not merit a Photo Seal? You get your $15 back!
By the way, Rick gave me tremendous help on assembling my collection, even though I bought only about 15% of the coins from him!
Here's a photo of the Eagle Eye Photo Seal Card:
Here are the photos from one of my coins, representing the three kinds of digital photos provided by the nominal $15 fee, followed by a hotlink to my set, which is currently ranked #7.
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/half-cents/indian-cents-major-sets/indian-cents-basic-set-circulation-strikes-1859-1909/publishedset/266583
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
Nice coin. And NEN are good people in my book.
Do you guys think it's worth a shot at CAC and or Photo Seal?
I honesty don't know. I bought it for the eye appeal and the strike. Comparing it to other IH C from this year I don't see many dull or soft areas. I do think it has a full strike.
I am just now learning about the ins and outs of both grading services. I think Photo Seal is a no brainer becasue Mr. Snow makes it so inexpensive with little to gamble. CAC's pretty fair.
Just wondering if I have a good shot at a sticker........
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
My grading skills are NOT good, but if you do send it to each, and succeed with at least one of the two, if it adds market value, great.
But perhaps just as important, if not more so, having at least one of those stickers on that lovely coin will enable you (or your heirs) down the road when the time comes to sell, to sell it easier, quicker, and with a much better chance of receiving fair value.
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
@winesteven I agree. Im going to send it in to both company's. Rick Snow first because I don't need membership with him. I'll find a dealer I can trust to send it to CAC. I should have just asked NEN to do it but it didn't occur to me until today.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
Let us know how you make out! I hope you get both!!!!
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
Nice cent @Morgan13
Morgan13, sorry I did not get back to you sooner but you received excellent responses concerning Rick Snow's grading. He uses what he calls the PDS system (Planchet/Die/Strike) which is an extension of the ANA grading standards. You can find a detailed discussion of it here from Greysheet:
https://www.greysheet.com/news/story/monthly-supplement-the-pds-grading-system
If you view his website inventory you will see that his PDS grading result is shown in the description of the coin. For example "Choice Unc (14: 5,5,4). Very few marks. A very high end example. Slight weakness on the bust point only. Old green-label holder from over 25 years ago." He uses the PDS score to determine if the coin is awarded a sticker.
Following is part of the Greysheet discussion showing the 15 point scale derivation:
Planchet
5 = Close to perfect. Very few, close to no marks.
4 = Better than average marks, original surface.
3 = Average marks, silver and gold might be dipped.
2 = Above average marks, and/or light hairlines from a past cleaning.
1 = Past cleaning is evident.
0 = Cleaned, not tooled or whizzed (Tooling or whizzing disqualifies the coin)
Die
5 = Very early die state – Deep mirror or matte surface.
4 = Early die state. Details sharp. Some cartwheel, mirrored fields or matte surface
3 = Average die state. Very little distortion of letters and devices. Moderate cartwheel, dull mirrors.
2 = Slightly late die state. Some distortion of the devices and/or letters.
1 = Late die state. significant die wear – Heavy distortion on letter and/or design.
0 = Very late die state. Loss of major detail due to die wear.
Strike
5 = Full strike. Full details on letters and all devices.
4 = Good strike. Most design and letters fully stuck.
3 = Average strike. Some design lacking definition due to strike.
2 = below average strike. Some detail close to missing.
1 = Weak strike. Some details missing due to strike.
0 = Very weak strike. Major design loss due to strike.