1913 Buffalo Nickel Opinions Please
These are my first 2 Coins I picked up in my journey into coin collecting. I know it's hard to tell from pictures but can I get any opinions on what you guys think grade or value might be



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Comments
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First Buff, AU and second maybe AU, possibly MS, need to hold coin and rotate to be sure. Hope you didn't pay MS price for them. Be sure to utilize David Lange's book.
Jim
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Great type 1s for an album.
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@jesbroken said:
First Buff, AU and second maybe AU, possibly MS, need to hold coin and rotate to be sure. Hope you didn't pay MS price for them. Be sure to utilize David Lange's book.
JimI just added the book to my next amazon order so I'll have it soon along with a grading book. I paid 50 bucks for each of them. Is that good or bad?
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Enjoy them, they are certainly one of the great coins in terms of history and beauty.
First one is AU, second could be UNC.Derek
EAC 60241 -
you're getting AU maybe MS / could be UNC guesses because they are the best guesses from those photos. this is another problem buying ungraded coins from ebay thinking you'll make money (eventually)
it can be hard to tell grade from photos. there are times when photos can hide coins with issues on them like light cleaning
until you get more experience you'll also be making guesses but with a lot less experience. this is a path to losing money
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you can also learn from this
https://www.pcgs.com/photograde/
you will find it can be tough to grade a high AU coin versus a MS coin
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@Gothat3rs said:
I paid 50 bucks for each of them. Is that good or bad?I would grade both as AU, you could (with a bit of patience and looking) have bought PCGS AU graded examples for the same $100. If you have the knowledge it is possible to find good coins on Ebay, but Ebay is also a dumping ground for over graded coins and coins that have been messed with. Buyer beware.
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Great series to learn to grade, and much trickier than you might expect. Its easy to mix a weak strike with wear, and there are LOTS of weakly struck coins in this series. Here is a grading video from PCGS that talks about grading Buffalo Nickels and strike: https://youtube.com/watch?v=ytcLuf-hI0k.
PCGS has a whole series on grading on YouTube that is very good. I will warn you there there is a lot on nonsense on YouTube, however, the videos from reputable sources like PCGS and ANA are good.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
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I'd say AU58 or perhaps better.
"Ain't None of Them play like him (Bix Beiderbecke) Yet."
Louis Armstrong0 -
I am interpreting these images as both coins being AU.
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The 13 type 2 coin looks like it would grade a point or two higher than the type one which looks like it has slight wear on the hip and shoulder.
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Yours are ok if you wanted them for an album and didn’t want it slabbed. Here’s my 1913 Type 1 PCGS slabbed AU58 that I paid $58 for, I wanted it slabbed for my Registry sets of circulated slabbed coins.

Mr_Spud
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@Gothat3rs said:
@jesbroken said:
First Buff, AU and second maybe AU, possibly MS, need to hold coin and rotate to be sure. Hope you didn't pay MS price for them. Be sure to utilize David Lange's book.
JimI just added the book to my next amazon order so I'll have it soon along with a grading book. I paid 50 bucks for each of them. Is that good or bad?
I have an extra buffalo book which I would have been willing to give for free

Young Numismatist • My Toned Coins
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Good pickup. I'd say you made good on the price.
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Very high AU could be AU-58. Nice color and strike. There looks to be some rub on Iron Tail's cheek on both coins.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon1 -
I would peg both at 58, although the type two might have a chance to eke out a 62. I find the eye appeal on the type one much nicer. That said, if I bought every type one I found eye appealing I would probably own dozens.
Welcome to the hobby. I have enjoyed the Buffalo series since boyhood and have been working on my “big boy set” since the early 2000’s. I’m sure you’ll find many board members here Happy to guide you along your journey.
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I started a VF/XF set last summer just before taking my current job and a break from active collecting... I got about halfway through. My brother gifted me his childhood "work in progress", many of which were pulled from circulation, a few months ago... so, I'm down to just the last two coins... 1913-D T2, and a 1917-S...
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@lkenefic said:
I started a VF/XF set last summer just before taking my current job and a break from active collecting... I got about halfway through. My brother gifted me his childhood "work in progress", many of which were pulled from circulation, a few months ago... so, I'm down to just the last two coins... 1913-D T2, and a 1917-S...Sounds like a nice herd there. Finish it up, then open up the folder and gaze at all your hard work.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon2 -
Those a very nice coins for your first two! I’ve wanted to get a type 1 1913 myself for a while now.
Buffs are notoriously difficult to grade. Minor to extreme strike weakness is more common than not on certain date/mm’s and it can be difficult to tell the difference from wear. Good luck on your collection. It’s cool to see your earnest, beginner posts.
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Well thanks again for everyone's opinion, I did take then to a good coin shop here in town and I was happy to here from the owner he thinks there both ms. Makes me happy with my first 2 buffs...
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I've read a few editorials on buffalo nickels.
The dies wear out because of the hardness of the nickel if I remember correctly.
That's what makes it hard to tell from images.
I think you have two nice album buffalo there.
BTW welcome to the forum!Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
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AU
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