I shut off the image stabilizer. This coin has incredible luster and it should show up here.
The obverse has a gold tone and the reverse is a little more white.
Again I used the label to focus.
Same 55mm lens.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@Morgan13 said:
What time of lens do I need?
This is the only other lens I have.
That probably won't work unless you have a really tall copy stand. The "macro" setting on this lets you get as close as just over 3 feet away, measured to the imaging plane inside the camera. The imaging plane is marked on the top of the camera by a circle with a horizontal line through it.
This link has a bunch of 100 mm macro lenses for Canon. The Tokina lens, at $429 new will work fine. Reviews on B&H are generally trustworthy and useful. Used lenses abound on eBay, of course, but some will be for parts only.
So I need a 100mm lens for my camera. Is there anything else I should know? @robec mentioned that a zoom lens is no good. I don't want to buy the wrong lens.
I'm going to try to find a used one if possible.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@Morgan13 said:
So I need a 100mm lens for my camera. Is there anything else I should know? @robec mentioned that a zoom lens is no good. I don't want to buy the wrong lens.
I'm going to try to find a used one if possible.
With a dedicated macro lens you will be able to get the detail that zoom lenses can’t get, even when they are in macro mode. When the camera is tethered to the computer the Canon EOS software will allow you to isolate an area of the coin and manually focus to pin point detail. As an example, with the shot below, if you double click inside the white area, another window appears with a magnified view of that area. You can manually focus the coin with even clearer detail.
@robec that's amazing. I'm just a hobbyist. I'll buy a dedicated lens at some point. I'm just cheap. I am relieved to know it's the lens and not me.
Will this work?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@Morgan13 said: @robec that's amazing. I'm just a hobbyist. I'll buy a dedicated lens at some point. I'm just cheap. I am relieved to know it's the lens and not me.
Will this work?
I believe these are the best images possible I can shoot with my 55mm lens. A 100mm lens will be arriving soon.
I posted this bust half in another thread. I'm postin it here also.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I took these tonight. These are probably my best DMPL Morgan photos I've taken yet but still needs improvement. I used a light box. Canon EOS T2i with Tokina atx-i 100mm F/2.8EF Macro Lens. If I don't use the light box I can't seem to get the dark fields. I'm not sure how to improve these.
@ProofCollection said:
I took these tonight. These are probably my best DMPL Morgan photos I've taken yet but still needs improvement. I used a light box...
The light box is what is causing the coin to look flat. Flat is OK for the slab itself, but you need some shadows on the coin to give it depth.
I shot this just the other night. It has amazing light bouncing off it from every direction. One thing coin photography can never do is capture the fleeting glimpses of dancing light that make up the in-hand viewing experience. With a camera, the best you can do is get one instance, without the context. Borrowing from Duane Blake’s now-defunct AURA concept, on a scale of 1-4 this coin is a 4, with a seemingly infinite number of optimum viewing angles under almost any light. It is AMAZING! Thanks Brain Wagner for finding this truly self-light generating coin.
@renomedphys said:
I shot this just the other night. It has amazing light bouncing off it from every direction. One thing coin photography can never do is capture the fleeting glimpses of dancing light that make up the in-hand viewing experience. With a camera, the best you can do is get one instance, without the context...
Another issue is that you have two eyes, while the camera has one.
I’ve never been a big fan of axial photography with coins. Most of the results I’ve seen and results I’ve actually made have ended up with good color and detail, but are completely void of luster. Thanks to a video I saw here on the boards a few weeks ago and with help from @spacehayduke in finding components needed to semi-mimic the setup from the video, I thought I would see if axial might be worth another shot.
The biggest difference between this setup and the traditional axial setup is the angle of the glass used to deflect light to the coin can adjusted. The old way, the glass was stationary. With the use of an articulating arm the glass can be rotated around the coin and/or angle changed manually until the image is as close to what you want as you can get. With slabs glare is still a problem, but it seems the field will light up more without glare than they normally would shooting the traditional non axial method. I’m using a 3”x5” glass , but larger glass plates can be used.
The first coin I wanted to try out was a 1912 MPL. I had photographed it the usual way a few weeks earlier.
Using the new axial setup the coin shows a little better detail and more gloss/luster than I ever received with axial before. The line covering the date isn’t only a scratch on the slab it is more of a crack. A tiny bit of slab glare can be seen in the area 2 o’clock on the obverse.
Another coin I was dying to try out was a 1914-D. I was able to capture some color with my original non axial shot taken last year.
Non axial
Axial
Not every coin photo will be improved using axial but there are some coins that are very stubborn that can benefit.
As @robec just noted, he and I have been going back and forth to get the optimal setup on our sytems for axial and to get the best images using axial. I showed some earlier in another thread, and I have been using 4 different coins to optimize, 2 of which I can compare to Great Photos and/or TruViews for the same coin. By doing so, and trying out multiple situations for light etc., I can also see where to avoid some of the pitfalls in my images so far. Back and forth with @Robec really helps. It is always great to discuss these things with other interested photographers, especially when they are among the best out there (i.e Robec).
So the vid above uses a black cylinder to place around the coin to keep any extraneous light not from the reflected light source out. I see some advantages to that and have worked B&F w/ and w/o this on my system for the same 4 coins. However, at least for my system, after 2 weeks of experimentation, I can say I like my images better when not using a black sleeve around the coin, keeping it open. There are some subtleties in the light with or without. Here is an image of a silver eagle DCAM I produced today using axial, no black sleeve:
This image shows well the 'white' mirrors of the DCAM and contrasting with the frosted devices. As straight on shot, which will do when I switch from axial on my setup, should show the mirrors as black. Any small dark spots you see are not on the coin, but on the glass or the slab, axial picks up everything and although I constantly and carefully remove the 'dust' on these, it is nigh impossible to get them all - I need to get a can of air to blow off the last bits. Aslo, nicks in the plastic of the slab show up as dark spots, crucial to have a very perfect surface on the slab to avoid these.
Also, note that there seems to be subtle shades of gray for the frost on both sides of the coin. I am asking myself if this is real (I don't see it when viewing in hand), or if maybe my light source is slightly irregular, is the WB just slightly off (especially a point or two in tint), or ?????????????? More work to do to fine tune and perfect....................
Of note, this PR70 DCAM is as close to flawless as I have ever seen. Nice to see..........
For toned proofs, there is more to it, for example, getting the EC right when shooting to optimize further processing to finalize the images. So I am still experimenting to get images as close to my ideal as I can, a few more tweaks, a few more discussions with Robec and I will be there (I hope). Thanks to Bob for being so helpful.
@ProofCollection said:
My question though, is how do you get the high contrast black background with frosted devices pictures?
Straight on shooting - meaning lights right against the lens. The axial shots are good for bringing out the white mirrors, or bringing out the color for toned proofs. The straight on makes the mirrors turn black. I will do the Eagle DCAM soon once I am done with axial and post it here.
For comparison, here is the same Franklin proof shot with these 2 different techniques that highlights the differences.
@ProofCollection said:
My question though, is how do you get the high contrast black background with frosted devices pictures?
Straight on shooting - meaning lights right against the lens. The axial shots are good for bringing out the white mirrors, or bringing out the color for toned proofs. The straight on makes the mirrors turn black. I will do the Eagle DCAM soon once I am done with axial and post it here.
For comparison, here is the same Franklin proof shot with these 2 different techniques that highlights the differences.
Best, SH
When I shoot straight on, I get glare from the lights. How do you fix that?
@ProofCollection said:
My question though, is how do you get the high contrast black background with frosted devices pictures?
Straight on shooting - meaning lights right against the lens. The axial shots are good for bringing out the white mirrors, or bringing out the color for toned proofs. The straight on makes the mirrors turn black. I will do the Eagle DCAM soon once I am done with axial and post it here.
For comparison, here is the same Franklin proof shot with these 2 different techniques that highlights the differences.
Best, SH
When I shoot straight on, I get glare from the lights. How do you fix that?
Move the lights away from the lens but as close as possible w/o glare on the coin itself.
@ProofCollection said:
My question though, is how do you get the high contrast black background with frosted devices pictures?
Straight on shooting - meaning lights right against the lens. The axial shots are good for bringing out the white mirrors, or bringing out the color for toned proofs. The straight on makes the mirrors turn black. I will do the Eagle DCAM soon once I am done with axial and post it here.
For comparison, here is the same Franklin proof shot with these 2 different techniques that highlights the differences.
Best, SH
When I shoot straight on, I get glare from the lights. How do you fix that?
Move the lights away from the lens but as close as possible w/o glare on the coin itself.
BTW, I am not getting as much glare shooting CACG slabbed coins...........................
@FlyingAl said:
We're getting really close to where you need to be to have really good images. The ones you have are actually pretty dang good.
I think camera shake may be causing the blurriness. Use a timer (either 2 or 10 second depending on the age of your Canon) to shoot. This will cause a delay from between when you push the button and the picture is taken.
this is important - you want to have your camera setup on a separate platform from your desk. If you zoom in in EOS Utility you'll see just clicking the mouse will start it shaking if you have your setup on the same surface, and if your PC has fans those vibrations will reduce sharpness.
I'm surprised I don't see lens hood in y'alls setups, having the lights below the plane of the front of the lens will cause flare/glare, which is cool if you're JJ Abrams but not so much in numismatic photography.
I am really enjoying this thread. Coin photography has been a passion project of mine for eight years. A thread on another forum got me started. The learning and the constant improving is at least as addictive of the coins themselves. So enjoyable to watch others progress.
BTW you pro photographers are incredible. Just sayin’
I finally purchased a proper 100mm macro lens. Looking forward to it showing up.
Next step will be to tether it up to my Computer as @robec has suggested.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Question for you - did your camera come with a tether? Thanks!
Nikon has tether software for free, but only for recent cameras. Same for Canon. Adobe Lightroom Classic is what I use to tether. You get it for free if you subscribe to Photoshop. Works well.
Question for you - did your camera come with a tether? Thanks!
When I bought my first DSLR, it was one of those kits with a couple of lenses, cables and the software. The software for Canon has always been free. If it didn’t come with the camera it can be downloaded for free from the Canon website. I knew nothing about tethering until 4-5 years later. The cables that came with the kit was for downloading photos.. It wasn’t until later that I learned it was also used to connect to the computer.. But if the camera didn’t come with the cable they are very cheap @ around $20.
I took these with a Sony Nex 5n using a Vintage Minolta 50mm F1.8 lens with bellows. I used an f-stop of at least 5.6 to increase the depth of field. You should be able to blow them up to a rather large size if do everything right.
I received my 100mm lens today. I'm still trying to get the kinks out. I wanted to get an image up so we can all see the improvements as time goes by.
I'm having a real hard time getting that perfect shot. I've tried auto and manual.
I'm not tethered to my iPad yet.
There is something about this coin. It looks so squared off and it looks like a wire rim on the obverse. Not 100% sure and I'm not about to crack it out.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Those are pretty good IMO. My suggestion is to use a white or black background. I'm pretty happy with these that I took yesterday for my ebay listing. These captured the contrast and deep mirrors really well. It's unfortunate this coin has the fingerprint and that area with the haze or whatever.
@messydesk said:
Still some sharpness issues, but do you appreciate the working distance that the 100 mm macro provides you?
Its awesome and a bit frustrating at the same time. I need to work this out. I have a decent camera and a beautiful lens. I think what I need to do now is as @robec said is tether it to a computer.
In the meantime I will see what I can do.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I finally purchased a copy stand. I think I bought a decent one and at a good price. It was made in Germany.
It's used but in perfect working order.
No bulbs.
Now I'm hoping I can take much better images!
I already sent Alex a pm with questions about bulb choices. Looks like it accomadate up to 250 watts.
What type of bulb do you use and why?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@Morgan13 said:
I finally purchased a copy stand. I think I bought a decent one and at a good price. It was made in Germany.
It's used but in perfect working order.
No bulbs.
Now I'm hoping I can take much better images!
I already sent Alex a pm with questions about bulb choices. Looks like it accomadate up to 250 watts.
What type of bulb do you use and why?
I use 100 W equivalent daylight LEDs. They stay cool, making them easy to move around.
This one took me a few tries to get right and I've been doing this now for 15 years. Several sessions over the past 2 weeks. So sometimes @Morgan13 it is not unusual to redo as you learn more about how the light, lens, etc. work together for a particular coin. The Kaiser stand is an excellent one. I use LED's with as much power as possible, 240W equivalent. They do get hot, but in your Kaiser lamp holders that will not be an issue.
After I “learned” how to do this, I photographed my entire collection. A year later, I redid it all. Same equipment, but my knowledge and experience had grown enough that the improvement was obvious.
Once you get the basics down, further refinements will happen over a lifetime.
Comments
I shut off the image stabilizer. This coin has incredible luster and it should show up here.
The obverse has a gold tone and the reverse is a little more white.
Again I used the label to focus.
Same 55mm lens.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
That probably won't work unless you have a really tall copy stand. The "macro" setting on this lets you get as close as just over 3 feet away, measured to the imaging plane inside the camera. The imaging plane is marked on the top of the camera by a circle with a horizontal line through it.
This link has a bunch of 100 mm macro lenses for Canon. The Tokina lens, at $429 new will work fine. Reviews on B&H are generally trustworthy and useful. Used lenses abound on eBay, of course, but some will be for parts only.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
So I need a 100mm lens for my camera. Is there anything else I should know?
@robec mentioned that a zoom lens is no good. I don't want to buy the wrong lens.
I'm going to try to find a used one if possible.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
With a dedicated macro lens you will be able to get the detail that zoom lenses can’t get, even when they are in macro mode. When the camera is tethered to the computer the Canon EOS software will allow you to isolate an area of the coin and manually focus to pin point detail. As an example, with the shot below, if you double click inside the white area, another window appears with a magnified view of that area. You can manually focus the coin with even clearer detail.
- Bob -
"Central Valley" Roosevelts
MPL's - Lincolns of Color
@robec that's amazing. I'm just a hobbyist. I'll buy a dedicated lens at some point. I'm just cheap. I am relieved to know it's the lens and not me.
Will this work?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
That's the one I'd recommend.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
I believe these are the best images possible I can shoot with my 55mm lens. A 100mm lens will be arriving soon.
I posted this bust half in another thread. I'm postin it here also.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I took these tonight. These are probably my best DMPL Morgan photos I've taken yet but still needs improvement. I used a light box. Canon EOS T2i with Tokina atx-i 100mm F/2.8EF Macro Lens. If I don't use the light box I can't seem to get the dark fields. I'm not sure how to improve these.
The light box is what is causing the coin to look flat. Flat is OK for the slab itself, but you need some shadows on the coin to give it depth.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
I shot this just the other night. It has amazing light bouncing off it from every direction. One thing coin photography can never do is capture the fleeting glimpses of dancing light that make up the in-hand viewing experience. With a camera, the best you can do is get one instance, without the context. Borrowing from Duane Blake’s now-defunct AURA concept, on a scale of 1-4 this coin is a 4, with a seemingly infinite number of optimum viewing angles under almost any light. It is AMAZING! Thanks Brain Wagner for finding this truly self-light generating coin.
Empty Nest Collection
Matt’s Mattes
Another issue is that you have two eyes, while the camera has one.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
Hope you don't mind my posting some practice photos. I would appreciate the feedback from all.
I just started messing with axial lighting.
I’ve never been a big fan of axial photography with coins. Most of the results I’ve seen and results I’ve actually made have ended up with good color and detail, but are completely void of luster. Thanks to a video I saw here on the boards a few weeks ago and with help from @spacehayduke in finding components needed to semi-mimic the setup from the video, I thought I would see if axial might be worth another shot.
The biggest difference between this setup and the traditional axial setup is the angle of the glass used to deflect light to the coin can adjusted. The old way, the glass was stationary. With the use of an articulating arm the glass can be rotated around the coin and/or angle changed manually until the image is as close to what you want as you can get. With slabs glare is still a problem, but it seems the field will light up more without glare than they normally would shooting the traditional non axial method. I’m using a 3”x5” glass , but larger glass plates can be used.
The first coin I wanted to try out was a 1912 MPL. I had photographed it the usual way a few weeks earlier.
Using the new axial setup the coin shows a little better detail and more gloss/luster than I ever received with axial before. The line covering the date isn’t only a scratch on the slab it is more of a crack. A tiny bit of slab glare can be seen in the area 2 o’clock on the obverse.
Another coin I was dying to try out was a 1914-D. I was able to capture some color with my original non axial shot taken last year.
Non axial
Axial
Not every coin photo will be improved using axial but there are some coins that are very stubborn that can benefit.
- Bob -
"Central Valley" Roosevelts
MPL's - Lincolns of Color
As @robec just noted, he and I have been going back and forth to get the optimal setup on our sytems for axial and to get the best images using axial. I showed some earlier in another thread, and I have been using 4 different coins to optimize, 2 of which I can compare to Great Photos and/or TruViews for the same coin. By doing so, and trying out multiple situations for light etc., I can also see where to avoid some of the pitfalls in my images so far. Back and forth with @Robec really helps. It is always great to discuss these things with other interested photographers, especially when they are among the best out there (i.e Robec).
So the vid above uses a black cylinder to place around the coin to keep any extraneous light not from the reflected light source out. I see some advantages to that and have worked B&F w/ and w/o this on my system for the same 4 coins. However, at least for my system, after 2 weeks of experimentation, I can say I like my images better when not using a black sleeve around the coin, keeping it open. There are some subtleties in the light with or without. Here is an image of a silver eagle DCAM I produced today using axial, no black sleeve:
This image shows well the 'white' mirrors of the DCAM and contrasting with the frosted devices. As straight on shot, which will do when I switch from axial on my setup, should show the mirrors as black. Any small dark spots you see are not on the coin, but on the glass or the slab, axial picks up everything and although I constantly and carefully remove the 'dust' on these, it is nigh impossible to get them all - I need to get a can of air to blow off the last bits. Aslo, nicks in the plastic of the slab show up as dark spots, crucial to have a very perfect surface on the slab to avoid these.
Also, note that there seems to be subtle shades of gray for the frost on both sides of the coin. I am asking myself if this is real (I don't see it when viewing in hand), or if maybe my light source is slightly irregular, is the WB just slightly off (especially a point or two in tint), or ?????????????? More work to do to fine tune and perfect....................
Of note, this PR70 DCAM is as close to flawless as I have ever seen. Nice to see..........
For toned proofs, there is more to it, for example, getting the EC right when shooting to optimize further processing to finalize the images. So I am still experimenting to get images as close to my ideal as I can, a few more tweaks, a few more discussions with Robec and I will be there (I hope). Thanks to Bob for being so helpful.
Best, SH
Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
……..
Probably some of the sharpest and cleanest shots I’ve seen here. Well done in my opinion!
My question though, is how do you get the high contrast black background with frosted devices pictures?
Straight on shooting - meaning lights right against the lens. The axial shots are good for bringing out the white mirrors, or bringing out the color for toned proofs. The straight on makes the mirrors turn black. I will do the Eagle DCAM soon once I am done with axial and post it here.
For comparison, here is the same Franklin proof shot with these 2 different techniques that highlights the differences.
Best, SH
.
Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
When I shoot straight on, I get glare from the lights. How do you fix that?
Move the lights away from the lens but as close as possible w/o glare on the coin itself.
Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
BTW, I am not getting as much glare shooting CACG slabbed coins...........................
Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
this is important - you want to have your camera setup on a separate platform from your desk. If you zoom in in EOS Utility you'll see just clicking the mouse will start it shaking if you have your setup on the same surface, and if your PC has fans those vibrations will reduce sharpness.
I'm surprised I don't see lens hood in y'alls setups, having the lights below the plane of the front of the lens will cause flare/glare, which is cool if you're JJ Abrams but not so much in numismatic photography.
also try cutting a milk jug to do this for proofs
It takes a lot of practice. I am fortunate to have studied film & video in college before getting started with coin photography.
Custom album maker and numismatic photographer, see my portfolio here: (http://www.donahuenumismatics.com/).
I am really enjoying this thread. Coin photography has been a passion project of mine for eight years. A thread on another forum got me started. The learning and the constant improving is at least as addictive of the coins themselves. So enjoyable to watch others progress.
BTW you pro photographers are incredible. Just sayin’
Dealing in Canadian and American coins and historical medals.
A shot I took today. Not my best, but it’s what I have on hand.
Dealing in Canadian and American coins and historical medals.
I finally purchased a proper 100mm macro lens. Looking forward to it showing up.
Next step will be to tether it up to my Computer as @robec has suggested.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@robec
Question for you - did your camera come with a tether? Thanks!
Coin Photographer.
Nikon has tether software for free, but only for recent cameras. Same for Canon. Adobe Lightroom Classic is what I use to tether. You get it for free if you subscribe to Photoshop. Works well.
Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
When I bought my first DSLR, it was one of those kits with a couple of lenses, cables and the software. The software for Canon has always been free. If it didn’t come with the camera it can be downloaded for free from the Canon website. I knew nothing about tethering until 4-5 years later. The cables that came with the kit was for downloading photos.. It wasn’t until later that I learned it was also used to connect to the computer.. But if the camera didn’t come with the cable they are very cheap @ around $20.
The newer cameras can be tethered by Wi-Fi.
- Bob -
"Central Valley" Roosevelts
MPL's - Lincolns of Color
I took these with a Sony Nex 5n using a Vintage Minolta 50mm F1.8 lens with bellows. I used an f-stop of at least 5.6 to increase the depth of field. You should be able to blow them up to a rather large size if do everything right.
Overland Trail Collection Showcase
Dahlonega Type Set-2008 PCGS Best Exhibited Set
I received my 100mm lens today. I'm still trying to get the kinks out. I wanted to get an image up so we can all see the improvements as time goes by.
I'm having a real hard time getting that perfect shot. I've tried auto and manual.
I'm not tethered to my iPad yet.
There is something about this coin. It looks so squared off and it looks like a wire rim on the obverse. Not 100% sure and I'm not about to crack it out.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Those are pretty good IMO. My suggestion is to use a white or black background. I'm pretty happy with these that I took yesterday for my ebay listing. These captured the contrast and deep mirrors really well. It's unfortunate this coin has the fingerprint and that area with the haze or whatever.
Removed image.
Better one down below.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@Morgan13
Those look really good. Can you do some obverse and reverse closeups?
Coin Photographer.
Alex I hope these are okay. Still working things out
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Still some sharpness issues, but do you appreciate the working distance that the 100 mm macro provides you?
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
Me,
Sometimes size matters.
Its awesome and a bit frustrating at the same time. I need to work this out. I have a decent camera and a beautiful lens. I think what I need to do now is as @robec said is tether it to a computer.
In the meantime I will see what I can do.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I changed up the "one shot" to "AI Servo" seems to have made a difference. I think it pinpoints the target a little better.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
@FlyingAl
I made some adjustments after spending hours trying to get things just right.
I'm happy with these images.
What's your opinion?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I absolutely do. Now that it's dialed in I'm very pleased with the results. I keep making small adjustments but I feel my last shots are acceptable.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Not bad at all. You need more light in most of these, so put the lights closer to the lens.
Coin Photographer.
Will do.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I finally purchased a copy stand. I think I bought a decent one and at a good price. It was made in Germany.
It's used but in perfect working order.
No bulbs.
Now I'm hoping I can take much better images!
I already sent Alex a pm with questions about bulb choices. Looks like it accomadate up to 250 watts.
What type of bulb do you use and why?
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
I use 100 W equivalent daylight LEDs. They stay cool, making them easy to move around.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
100 watt LED's as mentioned above!
This one took me a few tries to get right and I've been doing this now for 15 years. Several sessions over the past 2 weeks. So sometimes @Morgan13 it is not unusual to redo as you learn more about how the light, lens, etc. work together for a particular coin. The Kaiser stand is an excellent one. I use LED's with as much power as possible, 240W equivalent. They do get hot, but in your Kaiser lamp holders that will not be an issue.
Best, SH
Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
After I “learned” how to do this, I photographed my entire collection. A year later, I redid it all. Same equipment, but my knowledge and experience had grown enough that the improvement was obvious.
Once you get the basics down, further refinements will happen over a lifetime.