Home› U.S. Coin Forum
Options

1916 D Dime Is It Real?

This coin is in a complete set being auctioned. I took these photos through a loupe held against my phone. Thanks for your help.

Comments

  • Options
    emeraldATVemeraldATV Posts: 5,249 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'm surprised you were able to capture its image so well, juggling the lenses.
    Lets see it in the black backround, the cropping just does'nt make the cut.
    If you can, understanding not in hand.
    Also is the rim in good shape ?

  • Options
    PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 47,777 ✭✭✭✭✭

    That D mintmark is really sharp considering the very heavy wear on the reverse of that coin which raises a big red flag.

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • Options
    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    With that much wear on a key coin, I would need to have it in hand to properly evaluate. The pictures do not show any glaring indication of a fake.... Cheers, RickO

  • Options
    BUFFNIXXBUFFNIXX Posts: 2,766 ✭✭✭✭✭

    looks ok to me

    Collector of Buffalo Nickels and other 20th century United States Coinage
    a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
  • Options
    Batman23Batman23 Posts: 5,517 ✭✭✭✭✭

    As PerryHall stated. The mintmark is pretty strong for such a worn coin. I would be suspect of a real dime with an added mintmark. That said, I don't know the mintmark positions for these but there are only a few if I recall... does it line up?

  • Options
    BuffaloIronTailBuffaloIronTail Posts: 7,775 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Looks like this one. Seems to be in the correct position:

    Pete

    "I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
  • Options
    Coin FinderCoin Finder Posts: 7,812 ✭✭✭✭✭

    To tough to call with a picture. The mint mark looks like it is worn down towards the rim and less worn towards the leaf branch. That would be correct, however it looks like its sticking up to high overall.... what's the current bid on the set? How do the 21P, 21 d and 26 S look? Is there a 42/1 or 42/1 d in the set?

    The court jester does not play, but gently pulls the strings…

  • Options
    PortrossPortross Posts: 93 ✭✭✭✭

    Thanks for your comments. The current bid with premium is nearly $1000, the 1921’s are low grade with a cleaned 1921 D, and no overdates. Many of the late 1930’s and 1940’s coins are uncirculated. I’d buy it at the current price but will probably go quite a bit higher.

  • Options
    nwcoastnwcoast Posts: 2,906 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I’m guessing it’s real. Though not certain. I’m basing my opinion on comparison with Trueview photos and those posted above by LanceNewmanOCC

    Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014

  • Options
    LanceNewmanOCCLanceNewmanOCC Posts: 19,999 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @nwcoast said:
    I’m guessing it’s real. Though not certain. I’m basing my opinion on comparison with Trueview photos and those posted above by LanceNewmanOCC

    i'm not certain i matched the exact mm position, i was just putting up some comps that were near the position of the op coin this time since aside from position, there are other factors to help determine authenticity. hope it helps someone.

    <--- look what's behind the mask! - cool link 1/NO ~ 2/NNP ~ 3/NNC ~ 4/CF ~ 5/PG ~ 6/Cert ~ 7/NGC 7a/NGC pop~ 8/NGCF ~ 9/HA archives ~ 10/PM ~ 11/NM ~ 12/ANACS cert ~ 13/ANACS pop - report fakes 1/ACEF ~ report fakes/thefts 1/NCIS - Numi-Classes SS ~ Bass ~ Transcribed Docs NNP - clashed coins - error training - V V mm styles -

  • Options
    The_Dinosaur_ManThe_Dinosaur_Man Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It looks real to me. The added mintmarks that I've seen usually have some prominent discolorization or rust or disturbed metal surrounding them.

    Custom album maker and numismatic photographer.
    Need a personalized album made? Design it on the website below and I'll build it for you.
    https://www.donahuenumismatics.com/.

  • Options
    The_Dinosaur_ManThe_Dinosaur_Man Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 16, 2023 11:55AM

    .

    Custom album maker and numismatic photographer.
    Need a personalized album made? Design it on the website below and I'll build it for you.
    https://www.donahuenumismatics.com/.

  • Options
    vulcanizevulcanize Posts: 1,418 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 16, 2023 12:53PM

    Am not an expert, but it sort of looks okay to me.
    Here's an archive picture of my AG 3 slabbed reverse for comparison.

    Cheers.

  • Options
    dcarrdcarr Posts: 10,275 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I don't like how the left side of the "D" has curvature all the way up and down. A genuine one is normally straighter between the serifs.

  • Options
    keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,650 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would not be a buyer for multiple reasons.
    With bidding where it’s at and where it might go, you are at a point where the risks far outweigh any potential rewards. Why would you want to do that? I do not look at enough low grade specimens these days. If it is a goal to pick one up, I recommend a PCGS CAC example.

    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner. :smile:
  • Options
    kazkaz Posts: 9,386 ✭✭✭✭✭

    it kinda looks ok, but I just would not risk it outside of a respected TPG slab.

  • Options
    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Looking at the images from @burfle23, I would say, again, it appears authentic. Cheers, RickO

Leave a Comment

BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list
Emoji
Image
Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights
Drop image/file