1805 large cent vf30 detail
Matthew21
Posts: 136 ✭✭✭
Wanted to see what y’all thought of this coin has some nice detail even though it’s corroded. They are asking $215
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Welcome to the forum.
Have you checked prices realized for other examples of that type that are details grades and corroded? There should be some relevant results available.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I have looked at auction history on heritage and the most recent one that sold in this condition was around 2001.
Did you check other common dates of that type, including PCGS and NGC examples of VF details, corroded examples?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
No haven’t had a chance to check yet.
That corrosion is not terribly offensive to me. The asking price is reasonable and actually pretty good.
peacockcoins
It's an S-267 (die variety). You may have noticed that an ANACS-certified coin graded VF-20 Details sold on Heritage last month for $126. IMHO, the eye appeal of that coin is as least as nice as the coin you have referenced.
Edit: actually a year ago last month.
Smitten with DBLCs.
I agree, and also think it would benefit from a careful brushing with Care or Blue Ribbon.
The ‘05 is a little better date, not as common as the 02/03’s, but more common than the ‘06.
Don't buy problem coins.
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Well unless you have a endless supply of money these large cents are so expensive unless they have problems they are hard to touch this one straight grade is like $700 to $800 in this grade.
I might spend $20 to buy a Buff or Lincoln Cent when trying to learn something... ie... details: cleaning or color
Experience has taught me, for collecting, I would stretch for the problem free coin if it took a year of savings.
I have sold a few pitted and challenged Large Cents in the past.
Frustrating to own and harder to sell.
Some were quite rare, and they brought a fraction of the expected value.
Download and collect a True View and save for the coin you want.
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I can’t justify spending thousands on large cents unless you are a millionaire that’s my opinion, I wasn’t really talking about other coins unless they jump dramatically. The most I spent on a large cent was $500 that was a 1794 vf details still has real nice details.
@Matthew21.... Welcome aboard. Buy the best you can afford. It is a hobby for most of us. Coins come after food, shelter, clothing.... Have fun and good luck. Cheers, RickO
Hi @Matthew21 ... welcome to the Forums! As far as collecting goes, I've embraced the idea behind the old adage: "Buy Once, Cry Once"... I'm not suggesting you go without food or a roof over your head to buy coins, but there's some sage advice in waiting for a coin that you're going to be happy with, as opposed to one that you "settled for". Ultimately, I realized I had as much money in 3 or 4 problem pieces with "decent detail" as I would have in one problem-free coin with superior eye appeal. Also, when you go to sell those problem coins, the problems aren't going away and will be the sticking point in any negotiation.
All that said and getting back to the coin at hand, I don't mind a little granularity in early copper as long as: the piece has a decent strike; acceptable color; and no green spots. The 1805 you're looking at seems to fit these requirements... Also, it doesn't appear to have been cleaned, nor does it appear to have been re-colored...
FWIW... this is the piece in my Type Set... It also has finely granular surfaces and the details I was looking for in a type piece.
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Most large cent collectors, myself included, need to engage in compromise when seeking the pre-1816 dates. Detail, defects, surfaces, and price all come into play. Look at a lot of coins and determine what you require, what you can live with, and what you can afford. Be ready to pull the trigger when you find coins that represent good value, based on your studies.
There’s a reason that even the most decrepit chain cents, ‘93 lib caps, ‘99’s, etc still command strong prices; it’s because most of us are in the same boat.
What works for your collecting, might not work for someone else's. He should buy whatever he likes, hopefully as an informed buyer.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
hopefully as an informed buyer.
That is the key, and the same point I was trying to make here:
Be ready to pull the trigger when you find coins that represent good value, based on your studies.
Then don't ask the QUESTION
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It sounds like you didn't understand the market for the large cents you owned. That's unfortunate.
He asked "Wanted to see what y’all thought of this coin has some nice detail even though it’s corroded. They are asking $215"
He didn't ask if he should avoid problem coins, altogether and stretch for problem-free examples. And do you think that by asking questions, he should forfeit his preferred way of collecting, because someone recommends that he does things differently?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Here’s my original compromise coin, for $100
Here’s the upgrade, which I wound up getting well below my max bid price on Heritage, and was only a little more than the OP’s coin in question (plus the juice though):
I do research on coins before I buy them I don’t jump into the first thing I see, I like to get other peoples opinions on coins to, I have been collecting coins for around 4 years. I think the best deal I came across so far was a 1889 cc I bought for $950 and I got it graded and it came back vf30 worth around $1700 I try to look for coins like that something I can buy and if I need to sell make a little off of it. Thanks for everyones input. I really appreciate it.
I have sold thousands of items on ebay from Leica cameras, coins, baseball cards, etc...
When has buying problems ever been sound collector advice in any hobby?
I don't care how EAC members do it...
Just have to agree to disagree with our esteemed experts (and they are the top of the numismatic food chain).
You mentioned $200 for a problem coin and $800 for a straight grade coin.
That spread does not seem prohibitive (your example ... CC Morgan)
Honestly just trying to help.
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Understood, that you’re trying to help, as I think we all are. But what if the OP would rather buy four $200 “problem” coins than one $800 straight grade coin? Shouldn’t he do so?
At a certain price, you can go “wrong” buying a phenomenal straight grade coin, just as you can buying a “problem”coin. And some buyers don’t worry about what kind of (financial) return they might get on their purchase.
I believe in the above, despite the fact that I tend to be drawn to coins of exceptional quality and beauty, along with considerable originality.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
The other question is how other grades are priced. For instance, if there's a big jump from VF20 to VF30, then perhaps the VF30 with problems is priced right around a problem-free VF20 (and I have no idea if this is the case... just hypothetical). If the problem-free VF30 is out of the question, the new question is whether the problem or reduced details is preferred. That will change for every coin... a VF20 and VF30 may not be significantly different; if the problem-free coin at the VF30+problem price-point is a Good, then the damage enables you to buy a lot more detail.
I collect chocolate coins so I can kill two birds with one stone on that list.
I appreciate you trying to help but if I’m going to pay good money for a coin like that 89 cc I bought I’m going to buy key date coins like that, that I know will go up in value over time.
Agree.
It's your collection, buy what you like. There's nothing wrong with buying problem coins if you understand what you're doing.
There aren’t any coins that you or anyone else can know will go up in value over time. So I hope you were joking.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I would typically agree do not buy problem coins, but with this series most of the coins in VF condition in TPG holders have problems that are straight graded. Try to find a 1805 VF 30 draped bust large cent that has original skin, no excessive marks, no scratches, no signs of being corroded, no pits, and no active contamination because I would like to buy that problem free coin at full retail. I can understand any collector who wants to save a few dollars buying a nice VF details example in this series.
I should had worded that differently your right but more than likely they are not going to plummet and overtime should go up in value.