@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
If you'll take 95%, below 90% is a great level to auto-decline. I frequently counter midway between the offer and my asking price, and it's frequently accepted at that level. FWIW.
@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
That's silly. Why can't you just come back at 95%? I need to MANUALLY make you an offer of 95% for you to find that number. Why do you feel better about a manual rejection rather than an automatic rejection?
If I don't auto-reject at 90% (or some similar number) then I have to MANUALLY respond. Can I auto-reject at 85% without you feeling like I'm inconveniencing you? 80%?
I've seen people start at 50% and work their way up looking for the auto-accept threshold. So, let them keep going until they get to 95%.
@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
That's silly. Why can't you just come back at 95%? I need to MANUALLY make you an offer of 95% for you to find that number. Why do you feel better about a manual rejection rather than an automatic rejection?
If I don't auto-reject at 90% (or some similar number) then I have to MANUALLY respond. Can I auto-reject at 85% without you feeling like I'm inconveniencing you? 80%?
I've seen people start at 50% and work their way up looking for the auto-accept threshold. So, let them keep going until they get to 95%.
God forbid that you should have to invest 20 seconds of your time to close a sale!!! LOL.
@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
That's silly. Why can't you just come back at 95%? I need to MANUALLY make you an offer of 95% for you to find that number. Why do you feel better about a manual rejection rather than an automatic rejection?
If I don't auto-reject at 90% (or some similar number) then I have to MANUALLY respond. Can I auto-reject at 85% without you feeling like I'm inconveniencing you? 80%?
I've seen people start at 50% and work their way up looking for the auto-accept threshold. So, let them keep going until they get to 95%.
God forbid that you should have to invest 20 seconds of your time to close a sale!!! LOL.
At least be consistent. Aren't you the one who told me I should be using auto-decline more?
First of all if buying, I have a pretty good idea of what I'm looking for and what it's worth. If on Ebay, then maybe one price but here on CU, I'll generally ask what is the lowest price you'll accept, delivered. I want the seller to make some profit, but not retire off the one sell! On eBay, for coins, generally will start out about Grey sheet value regardless of what they are asking and will see what kind of a counteroffer I get. Some are hopelessly out of line, sometimes not. Usually they'll come down to a reasonable price and with the sellers costs to eBay I'll sometimes give a little more than the actual value if I really want it. AND a lot of it depends on the dealers history. I do review all negative feedback to see if there is a pattern, or just grouchy customers. I do also sometimes go to the dealers own website and buy the same coin, so they are not saddled with eBay expenses and frequently will pay the 3% PP expenses so they are making a little more. I try to be fair, but to myself also!
Recently there was a PCGS sample for sale - asking price $3900 - I offered $100 and thought that was generous. That's a 97% off offer.
"My friends who see my collection sometimes ask what something costs. I tell them and they are in awe at my stupidity." (Baccaruda, 12/03).I find it hard to believe that he (Trump) rushed to some hotel to meet girls of loose morals, although ours are undoubtedly the best in the world. (Putin 1/17) Gone but not forgotten. IGWT, Speedy, Bear, BigE, HokieFore, John Burns, Russ, TahoeDale, Dahlonega, Astrorat, Stewart Blay, Oldhoopster, Broadstruck, Ricko, Big Moose, Cardinal.
@Lakesammman said:
Recently there was a PCGS sample for sale - asking price $3900 - I offered $100 and thought that was generous. That's a 97% off offer.
What's the rest of the story? Did you get it for that amount? Did he make a counter offer? Did he cuss you out and block you?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
That's silly. Why can't you just come back at 95%? I need to MANUALLY make you an offer of 95% for you to find that number. Why do you feel better about a manual rejection rather than an automatic rejection?
If I don't auto-reject at 90% (or some similar number) then I have to MANUALLY respond. Can I auto-reject at 85% without you feeling like I'm inconveniencing you? 80%?
I've seen people start at 50% and work their way up looking for the auto-accept threshold. So, let them keep going until they get to 95%.
God forbid that you should have to invest 20 seconds of your time to close a sale!!! LOL.
At least be consistent. Aren't you the one who told me I should be using auto-decline more?
No inconsistency here, Broham.
I suggested that you don't auto-decline offers of 90% (or more) so that you can counter at 95%. That's doesn't contradict the recommendation to use auto-decline in the first place to weed out the truly lowball offers.
In the end analysis, I don't really care how you run your business. Cheers.
@Morpheus1967 said:
My initial offer is just below what I am willing to pay. Usually, the seller will come back with a counteroffer that is around where I originally wanted to be. It's win-win. The seller gets to feel like they got a few extra bucks based off my original offer, and I got the coin for what I was hoping to pay. Has been pretty successful in the past, unless the coin is outrageously over priced.
One thing I can't stand, though, is if I offer 90% of asking price and I get the auto decline. Why even put best offer if you aren't going to even consider 90% of the offer?
Because I'll take 95%
Margins on coins are thin. Almost all my US sales have a net margin of 10% or less.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
That's silly. Why can't you just come back at 95%? I need to MANUALLY make you an offer of 95% for you to find that number. Why do you feel better about a manual rejection rather than an automatic rejection?
If I don't auto-reject at 90% (or some similar number) then I have to MANUALLY respond. Can I auto-reject at 85% without you feeling like I'm inconveniencing you? 80%?
I've seen people start at 50% and work their way up looking for the auto-accept threshold. So, let them keep going until they get to 95%.
God forbid that you should have to invest 20 seconds of your time to close a sale!!! LOL.
At least be consistent. Aren't you the one who told me I should be using auto-decline more?
No inconsistency here, Broham.
I suggested that you don't auto-decline offers of 90% (or more) so that you can counter at 95%. That's doesn't contradict the recommendation to use auto-decline in the first place to weed out the truly lowball offers.
In the end analysis, I don't really care how you run your business. Cheers.
Sellers may have material at minimum markup and in many instances other material priced at 50-100 pct cost. This is how it is in the biz. So it is silly to assume sellers material is priced 20 pct too high or some same markup across board. Buyers should do necessary research. In addition coins which are PQ, toners, blazers with lots of blast, or pieces where one side PL may be priced considerably higher or more. Many participants ignorant in how to price coins.
I offer a fair price but with a discount large enough to provide negotiation room. On a more expensive coin, this can be a low percentage and on an inexpensive coin the converse. I've been tempted to simply accept the BIN price on an inexpensive coin to expedite the purchase, but figure, what the heck, a discount has been implied.
PerryHall - No drama, just an auto decline. I didn't bother telling them that I'm the Simpson of Samples.
"My friends who see my collection sometimes ask what something costs. I tell them and they are in awe at my stupidity." (Baccaruda, 12/03).I find it hard to believe that he (Trump) rushed to some hotel to meet girls of loose morals, although ours are undoubtedly the best in the world. (Putin 1/17) Gone but not forgotten. IGWT, Speedy, Bear, BigE, HokieFore, John Burns, Russ, TahoeDale, Dahlonega, Astrorat, Stewart Blay, Oldhoopster, Broadstruck, Ricko, Big Moose, Cardinal.
Rather than a percentage of an asking price. I verify what the coin is worth based on recent sold results and then make an offer based on that. If the asking price is absurdly higher than what it's worth, I don't bother.
Offers on bin /mo - I usually offer 90-95 pct of bin price. Or 5-10 discount. That has a realistic chance of being accepted. It also is the max discount I would allow on counter offers at my table - shows assuming I have room. If they expect a larger discount have no use for them.
My items are all BIN but once a while I got offer but most of the time I would say no. It is not like buying vegetables if they don't buy from me they can buy from next door. Yes, it is not the only coin available but it might take someone years to get the right one. So no discount on eBay for me. If the buyer contact me from my site then I will at least give the eBay fee back to the buyer.
Comments
If you'll take 95%, below 90% is a great level to auto-decline. I frequently counter midway between the offer and my asking price, and it's frequently accepted at that level. FWIW.
Which is fine. Just don't auto-reject it at 90% of the offer. Come back with your offer at 95%. If your going to auto reject at 90%, just list it as a buy it now and be done with it.
That's silly. Why can't you just come back at 95%? I need to MANUALLY make you an offer of 95% for you to find that number. Why do you feel better about a manual rejection rather than an automatic rejection?
If I don't auto-reject at 90% (or some similar number) then I have to MANUALLY respond. Can I auto-reject at 85% without you feeling like I'm inconveniencing you? 80%?
I've seen people start at 50% and work their way up looking for the auto-accept threshold. So, let them keep going until they get to 95%.
God forbid that you should have to invest 20 seconds of your time to close a sale!!! LOL.
At least be consistent. Aren't you the one who told me I should be using auto-decline more?
First of all if buying, I have a pretty good idea of what I'm looking for and what it's worth. If on Ebay, then maybe one price but here on CU, I'll generally ask what is the lowest price you'll accept, delivered. I want the seller to make some profit, but not retire off the one sell! On eBay, for coins, generally will start out about Grey sheet value regardless of what they are asking and will see what kind of a counteroffer I get. Some are hopelessly out of line, sometimes not. Usually they'll come down to a reasonable price and with the sellers costs to eBay I'll sometimes give a little more than the actual value if I really want it. AND a lot of it depends on the dealers history. I do review all negative feedback to see if there is a pattern, or just grouchy customers. I do also sometimes go to the dealers own website and buy the same coin, so they are not saddled with eBay expenses and frequently will pay the 3% PP expenses so they are making a little more. I try to be fair, but to myself also!
Recently there was a PCGS sample for sale - asking price $3900 - I offered $100 and thought that was generous. That's a 97% off offer.
What's the rest of the story? Did you get it for that amount? Did he make a counter offer? Did he cuss you out and block you?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
No inconsistency here, Broham.
I suggested that you don't auto-decline offers of 90% (or more) so that you can counter at 95%. That's doesn't contradict the recommendation to use auto-decline in the first place to weed out the truly lowball offers.
In the end analysis, I don't really care how you run your business. Cheers.
Lol. It appears you do
Sellers may have material at minimum markup and in many instances other material priced at 50-100 pct cost. This is how it is in the biz. So it is silly to assume sellers material is priced 20 pct too high or some same markup across board. Buyers should do necessary research. In addition coins which are PQ, toners, blazers with lots of blast, or pieces where one side PL may be priced considerably higher or more. Many participants ignorant in how to price coins.
I offer a fair price but with a discount large enough to provide negotiation room. On a more expensive coin, this can be a low percentage and on an inexpensive coin the converse. I've been tempted to simply accept the BIN price on an inexpensive coin to expedite the purchase, but figure, what the heck, a discount has been implied.
PerryHall - No drama, just an auto decline. I didn't bother telling them that I'm the Simpson of Samples.
I use auto decline as it weeds out tire kickers and lowballers.
Rather than a percentage of an asking price. I verify what the coin is worth based on recent sold results and then make an offer based on that. If the asking price is absurdly higher than what it's worth, I don't bother.
Offers on bin /mo - I usually offer 90-95 pct of bin price. Or 5-10 discount. That has a realistic chance of being accepted. It also is the max discount I would allow on counter offers at my table - shows assuming I have room. If they expect a larger discount have no use for them.
My items are all BIN but once a while I got offer but most of the time I would say no. It is not like buying vegetables if they don't buy from me they can buy from next door. Yes, it is not the only coin available but it might take someone years to get the right one. So no discount on eBay for me. If the buyer contact me from my site then I will at least give the eBay fee back to the buyer.