1916 D Mercury Dime discussion
baseballjeff
Posts: 1,085 ✭✭✭
Hello!
For those of you who have picked up a 16-D Mercury Dime what were you looking for? And what do you wish you knew then than you know now when shopping for one?
Also, I am curious about what everyone thinks about this coin? It has caught my eye, but I’m reluctant because there appears to be some scratches to the left of Liberty’s eye brow.
Thank you everyone,
Jeff
0
Comments
Images are as follows:
One of my customers came by today with one he picked up, had a bad scuff on face, was a bit distracting to me. PCGS au-50, your coin posted was much better. I have a friend that has a 24 of them, one in particular is a pcgs 45 cac, I found it for him like 10 years ago, phenomenal coin. Nicest xf you will ever see. I have often thought about getting it from him. i actually have a pcgs 64 + FB cac, but still would love to have his 45. (its that nice)
I don't have a 16-D, but I've got quite a few Mercs. This isn't my favorite looking AU, but I like it. If you can't get over the scratch, I don't think you should spend thousands of dollars on it. To me a coin like this is kind of like a new car. You should love it and be thrilled with it being in your collection. Good luck on getting this one or the 16-D of your dreams.
If the scratches bother you now, they will bother you more later. Has nothing to do with a 16-D. Don't buy a $5 coin if it has marks that distract you.
You should know the mint marks. You should know your budget, study what they bring in auction for the grade (budget you have) and you might as well go for a PCGS CAC example. You will likely want to sell it one day and that combo does the best. Also know that the grading of the 1916 is quite a bit different from other dates.
If you are considering Mint State or Mint State Full Bands then you should know that the 1916-D is NOT the key to the series. If you would like to read about the Key/Semi-Key Date Analysis that I did for the series in 2012, then you can read it here: https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/858446/mercury-dime-key-semi-key-analysis/p1
The abbreviated version... the 1926-S is the Key and worthy of consideration. You will be able to get a nicer coin most likely as well but searching for the right NICE example could be tougher.
I am sure there are plenty of people here that can answer questions so be sure to ask away.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
As for the AU50 Example that you posted, it does not have a CAC sticker and an extra professional opinion DOES NOT HURT you, especially when you do not know everything about the series. When you are spending that type of money on a coin, it only helps. Also...as it goes for ANY significant purchase, if you see things that bother you about a coin....that is likely the main thing that you will always see and think about. When you go to sell the coin, that is what the potential buyers will see as well.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
Also, that coin just sold last month in a competitive auction for $6,900. Many eyes were on it and the market decided that it was only worth $6900 last month. Why you want to shell out an extra $1k one month later is beyond me. Sure, sometimes there are bargains to be had at auction but I don't see that as one of them...what makes that coin now worth an extra grand one month later?
https://www.pcgs.com/cert/37236994
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
Looks sort of "lifeless" based on the photos, no eye appeal IMO Perhaps that's the definition of a typical 50. Couldn't come up with a better adjective.
Here's the TV.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
Not a bad looking coin!
If you would have posted that TV and asked me what I thought of the coin and NEVER mentioned the mark in front of the eyebrow, I'd have told you it looks like a coin with lots of appeal; however, that's not the question you asked. and not the first pic that was posted of this coin. As others have said previously - if you notice the mark now, just imagine how much more you will notice it after putting roughly $10K into this coin. Keep looking is really what I am most comfortable with advising. (Keep in mind I have yet to put that kind of money into any one coin, so take my advice for what it's worth- not much.)
Baseballjeff, I think that's a gorgeous coin and I'm pretty picky! I totally understand where you're coming from though.
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
I like the TV much better than the photo posted. If something bugs you going in, it will only become more obvious the longer you have it.
Louis Armstrong
Clearly it bothers you, dont buy it!!!!
Find one that blows your mind and be willing to stretch for it!!
For the long term, even if u over pay today for quality, the price will long be forgotten everytime you look at it and smile years down the road. After all, your most likely only going to buy one.
One if the toughest lessens in numismatics!!
As most know, I collect half dimes. I used to see things that annoyed me as I peered through magnification at these very small coins. One day it finally occurred to me something that was bothering me so much was so tiny, that I couldn't even see it with the naked eye. It was that day when I eased up on myself for being so fussy.
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
It looks cleaned to me.
If I bought a 1916-D Mercury Dime, it would not be that one.
Agreed.
It really isn't about the scratch on the coin to me. It is the coin itself, and the mystique it brings with it.
Pete
I do not ask for the opinion of others when contemplating a coin. If anything bothers me about the coin, I pass. My money, my decision. Cheers, RickO
For you, this is a “but for” (prominent scratch) coin you like, but causes worry. As others have said, wait for one that doesn’t trigger this reaction because you’ll always be a little dissatisfied.
I think being patient is one of the hardest things to do in this hobby.
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Perhaps my eyes are deceiving me . . . the pic is not showing what I think, or I am just plain wrong . . . . . . .
But isn't that just 'ejector flash' . . .common on Mercs in that spot??? (It seemed so obvious to me I did not post yesterday . . .expecting 8-9 of our Merc guys to chime in . . . )
I don't see scratches. Now . . .that DOES NOT mean you should not pass on the coin . . . certainly if it draws your eye . . PASS!
But I have seen MS67+ later dates with huge ejector flash . . . . . . . never a problem on the grade.
Nice coin!
Drunner
A coin that I would pass.
Does this qualify? 1916d
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.The 1916-D is a classic "key" coin.
They aren't rare, or difficult to find, as they are out there and always for sale.
Finding the right grade/look can be the challenge. My personal thoughts on these, given I was doing a lower grade grading set and got 3 of them before I changed focus, is that one can find an average, or worse, looking example and for lower than list price. Finding a good looking one may cost a little more than list, but if you like it, you like it.
Are you stuck on AU? Are you stuck in a price range?
What look are YOU looking for?
I went for a nicely worn look, for the lower grades (had a G-4 that I bought on the forums and then traded a few years ago) and still have a G6 (PCGS CAC) with some album toning (my grandmother had an album of lower grade mercs I inherited and many of them had similar toning) and a VG10 (PCGS CAC) with a nice worn look. Going after the higher end wasn't something I wanted to do as they are still expensive, even though readily available, and I had other coins I wanted.
I've held both these coins just over a decade and never resubmitted or anything (other than send for CAC if they didn't already have it) and have enjoyed them. Kid is heading to college in the fall and I may finally sell one, or both, so someone else can enjoy them, but, I was glad I had them and it WAS about the look.
The one you posted would bother me because of that spot you pointed out, if it is readily noticeable when holding in hand.
Heritage pics of my coins so you can see what I was looking for:
http://coins.ha.com/itm/mercury-dimes/1916-d-10c-vg10-pcgs/a/1126-936.s?hdnJumpToLot=1&x=0&y=0/
https://coins.ha.com/itm/mercury-dimes/1916-d-10c-good-6-pcgs-cac/a/1143-4575.s?hdnJumpToLot=1&x=0&y=0
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
I prioritized a lower end example as long as it showed a strong D and had eye appeal. This one fit the bill for me. The scratch on the example you showed would bother me (though it is of course a higher end example). I bought mine at a FUN show along with the 42/1 error after looking at several examples. Good luck with your hunt.