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How do you define Eye Appeal on an untoned circulated coin?

I think the answers should be very interesting.

Happy New Year everyone!
Dave

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    drddmdrddm ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Realone said:
    I typically don't.

    So you believe toning equates to eye appeal then?

    Dave

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    CCGGGCCGGG ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 12:18PM

    Depends on the series... For coins like Morgans I like sharp strikes, frost and no bag marks the best.

    To me any toning detracts from a coin. The more toned, the more unsightly.

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    JBKJBK ✭✭✭✭✭

    Maybe it's just me but unless a circulated coin is AU or so, I don't consider circulated coins to have toning, only potentially tarnish.

    I see toning as something that occurs on original surfaces.

    As for eye appeal, if it looks nice to my eyes then it has appeal (to me).

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    drddmdrddm ✭✭✭✭✭

    @JBK said:

    As for eye appeal, if it looks nice to my eyes then it has appeal (to me).

    What specifically about a circulated coin do YOU consider appealing to your eyes?

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    Anything free of the nasty is typically ok in my book, however I prefer MS coins with nice cartwheel luster and usually avoid circs.

    If the price is right I will sometimes buy toners but thank god the Weimans is able to reverse the damage. On a circ I am still looking for clean fields, no spots or crud, sharp stike etc.

    The whole worlds off its rocker, buy Gold™.
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    I look for some luster.

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    JBKJBK ✭✭✭✭✭

    @drddm said:

    @JBK said:

    As for eye appeal, if it looks nice to my eyes then it has appeal (to me).

    What specifically about a circulated coin do YOU consider appealing to your eyes?

    Clean and even surfaces with color consistent with honest use.

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    I like an even gunmetal grey look on "untoned" circulated silver. Blast white circulated silver looks unnatural to me, and the older the coin, the more unnatural it looks. Beyond that, it's hard to define eye appeal precisely, but like the famous quote about pornography, I know it when I see it.

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    @Realone said:
    I typically don't.

    Funny but NOT funny. :p
    So is my first thought for a reply" "I know it when I see it!" Also, not funny. :(

    I think your opinion would be very important to read. Perhaps, you'll go first? :)

    PS OP, what a terrific <3 question!!!

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    For me - would need to be in the AU range and have a good bit of mint luster.

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    @oldUScoins said:
    For me - would need to be in the AU range and have a good bit of mint luster.

    So, you've never seen a very attractive AG coin?

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    @Insider2 said:

    @oldUScoins said:
    For me - would need to be in the AU range and have a good bit of mint luster.

    So, you've never seen a very attractive AG coin?

    Well - I'm not sure I'd call it "eye appealing" as per the OP questions - but maybe still desirable for other reasons (rarity, etc).

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    Unless it is barely circulated, an untoned circ rarely has positive eye appeal to me. They generally just look cleaned, because they were.

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    Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. I don't really think you can quantify it.

    Successful transactions with: JimTyler, Morgan13, ChangeInHistory, LukeMarshall, Old_Collector, basets , MICHAELDIXON, Waverlycoins, dsessom, privatecoin, SurfinxHI, ZoidMeister, giorgioll, Lakesammman, Twobitcollector, Cazkaboom, Dscoin, Shrub68, CoinHunter4, Cladiator, coinbuf, Elkevvo, ChrisH82, WindyCity, Kccoin, NumisOxide, Meltdown, blaircountycoin, blue62vette, greencopper, Kliao, Downtown1974, BankerBob56, coinlieutenant, cucamongacoin, FranklinFactory, scooter25, erwindoc, bigjpst, and others.

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    amwldcoinamwldcoin ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 2:08PM

    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

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    @oldUScoins said:

    @Insider2 said:

    @oldUScoins said:
    For me - would need to be in the AU range and have a good bit of mint luster.

    So, you've never seen a very attractive AG coin?

    Well - I'm not sure I'd call it "eye appealing" as per the OP questions - but maybe still desirable for other reasons (rarity, etc).

    This thread is about eye-appeal. A coin's rarity has nothing to do with its eye appeal. Unfortunately, a coin's design (which should not matter) is an important component of its eye appeal. For example, a typically gray
    F-12 Barber 50c with an even-colored, virtually mark-free original surface does not appeal to me at all;
    however, a WLH in the same condition would be very attractive to me because of the difference in its design.

    Now imagine the same outward description on a G-6 Draped Bust dime. Another beautiful yet low-grade coin.

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    MFeldMFeld ✭✭✭✭✭

    @amwldcoin said:
    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

    The people who come up with price guide prices probably do understand. However, guides typically list a price, not a price range. So realistically, there is no way they can accurately value both low end/unappealing and high end/appealing examples, simultaneously.

    Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.

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    For me it really depends on the series and what makes sense given the coins age and amount of wear. BryceM's post above is a perfect example... the 1806 HE quarter is beautiful to me. It wouldn't be if, at F12, it was blast white. A coin that circulated to that extent should have a bit of grime on it. The '53 A&R Half is off-the-charts eye appeal

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

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    @Insider2 said:

    @oldUScoins said:

    @Insider2 said:

    @oldUScoins said:
    For me - would need to be in the AU range and have a good bit of mint luster.

    So, you've never seen a very attractive AG coin?

    Well - I'm not sure I'd call it "eye appealing" as per the OP questions - but maybe still desirable for other reasons (rarity, etc).

    This thread is about eye-appeal. A coin's rarity has nothing to do with its eye appeal. Unfortunately, a coin's design (which should not matter) is an important component of its eye appeal. For example, a typically gray
    F-12 Barber 50c with an even-colored, virtually mark-free original surface does not appeal to me at all;
    however, a WLH in the same condition would be very attractive to me because of the difference in its design.

    Now imagine the same outward description on a G-6 Draped Bust dime. Another beautiful yet low-grade coin.

    >

    That’s cool - it’s a personal preference type of thing. As you say - “would be very attractive to me”. But not necessarily to me.

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    Maybe so but there should be some middle ground! There are many examples out there I wouldn't buy, even if they were 1/2 of greysheet! On the other hand there are others I would pay more than any guide out there...sometimes multiples! I just can not understand some of the guide prices when there is a solid track record of prices realized!

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

    The people who come up with price guide prices probably do understand. However, guides typically list a price, not a price range. So realistically, there is no way they can accurately value both low end/unappealing and high end/appealing examples, simultaneously.

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    MFeldMFeld ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 4:03PM

    @amwldcoin said:
    Maybe so but there should be some middle ground! There are many examples out there I wouldn't buy, even if they were 1/2 of greysheet! On the other hand there are others I would pay more than any guide out there...sometimes multiples! I just can not understand some of the guide prices when there is a solid track record of prices realized!

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

    The people who come up with price guide prices probably do understand. However, guides typically list a price, not a price range. So realistically, there is no way they can accurately value both low end/unappealing and high end/appealing examples, simultaneously.

    Read your own words. The price guide prices are the “middle ground”.

    Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.

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    Eye appeal is in the eye of the beholder. The same things appeal to each person differently.

    So, eye appeal is a little like pornography, I can’t always define it but I know it when I see it.

    Q: When does a collector become a numismatist?



    A: The year they spend more on their library than their coin collection.



    A numismatist is judged more on the content of their library than the content of their cabinet.
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    One of these days I'll post my APR's of the over 2,000 PCGS F-AU I've sold to embarrass the price guides. Hopefully when I'm old and crochety enough to do that there will be more than double that! B)

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    Maybe so but there should be some middle ground! There are many examples out there I wouldn't buy, even if they were 1/2 of greysheet! On the other hand there are others I would pay more than any guide out there...sometimes multiples! I just can not understand some of the guide prices when there is a solid track record of prices realized!

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

    The people who come up with price guide prices probably do understand. However, guides typically list a price, not a price range. So realistically, there is no way they can accurately value both low end/unappealing and high end/appealing examples, simultaneously.

    The price guide prices probably are the “middle ground.”

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    MFeldMFeld ✭✭✭✭✭

    @amwldcoin said:
    One of these days I'll post my APR's of the over 2,000 PCGS F-AU I've sold to embarrass the price guides. Hopefully when I'm old and crochety enough to do that there will be more than double that! B)

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    Maybe so but there should be some middle ground! There are many examples out there I wouldn't buy, even if they were 1/2 of greysheet! On the other hand there are others I would pay more than any guide out there...sometimes multiples! I just can not understand some of the guide prices when there is a solid track record of prices realized!

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

    The people who come up with price guide prices probably do understand. However, guides typically list a price, not a price range. So realistically, there is no way they can accurately value both low end/unappealing and high end/appealing examples, simultaneously.

    The price guide prices probably are the “middle ground.”

    That won’t embarrass anyone. Just as you shouldn’t be embarrassed by your stated unwillingness to pay even half of grey sheet for some examples. As much as you sound like you want it, you can’t have it both ways at the same time in a single price guide value.

    Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.

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    Since a picture is worth a thousand words, this AU 50 is the kind of look in circulated silver coins that I find very appealing.


    I never thought that growing old would happen so fast.
    - Jim
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    Hmmmm, Maybe I should of said most of the inferior coins are the ones that sell at price quide. Challenge...Find me an 01-S in 58 for double price guide...I don't care what it looks like!

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    One of these days I'll post my APR's of the over 2,000 PCGS F-AU I've sold to embarrass the price guides. Hopefully when I'm old and crochety enough to do that there will be more than double that! B)

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    Maybe so but there should be some middle ground! There are many examples out there I wouldn't buy, even if they were 1/2 of greysheet! On the other hand there are others I would pay more than any guide out there...sometimes multiples! I just can not understand some of the guide prices when there is a solid track record of prices realized!

    @MFeld said:

    @amwldcoin said:
    This question is why there is such a large spread in prices for the same grade with Barber Halves. A nice, gun metal grey coin will sometimes bring double what a light grey dipped one will bring. Many people do not understand that and neither do the price guides!

    Edit to add....how many nice original midgrade Barber Halves are you guys seeing in auctions lately? Not many from my experience. Most trade privately!

    The people who come up with price guide prices probably do understand. However, guides typically list a price, not a price range. So realistically, there is no way they can accurately value both low end/unappealing and high end/appealing examples, simultaneously.

    The price guide prices probably are the “middle ground.”

    That won’t embarrass anyone. Just as you shouldn’t be embarrassed by your stated unwillingness to pay even half of grey sheet for some examples. As much as you sound like you want it, you can’t have it both ways at the same time in a single price guide value.

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    Late to the show - do you consider gray 'patina' to be untoned or is such a subset under toning? Grey patina can be very eye appealing on circ coins. Blast white circs, rarely.........

    Best, SH

    My online coin store - https://desertmoonnm.com/
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    bidaskbidask ✭✭✭✭✭

    That’s easy

    Fabulous cartwheel luster !

    I manage money. I earn money. I save money .
    I give away money. I collect money.
    I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.




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    MFeldMFeld ✭✭✭✭✭

    @bidask said:
    That’s easy

    Fabulous cartwheel luster !

    That’s only possible on circulated coins down, grade-wise, to a certain point. What about coins whose grades
    don’t include luster?

    Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.

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    @BryceM said:
    I suppose context is a little important here. If we're talking about 19th century issues, any circulated, completely white coin will likely have severely negative eye appeal to me. I'm talking about freshly dipped Capped Bust Halves or Bust dollars, for example. They just don't look right no matter what other attributes the coin has.

    Now, if we're talking Walkers and Peace dollars, that's a little different. Still, almost all circulated examples will show at least a little patina. Here's an example:

    This coin isn't what most would consider to be a toner, but there is obvious patina and a bit of circulation "grime". I see even wear (+), good rims (+), no distracting marks (+), nice detail (+), and a bit of luster in protected areas (+). To me it has positive eye appeal. It's solid, and welcome in my circulated Walker collection.

    Here's another one:

    I like this answer best. I think everyone's answer is different. But you have a clear sense of what you like and it is coherent and easy to understand.

    All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.

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    bidaskbidask ✭✭✭✭✭

    Original surfaces

    No mottled toning , no spots nicks or dings if any any kind

    Just gently aging

    I manage money. I earn money. I save money .
    I give away money. I collect money.
    I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.




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    @MFeld said:

    @bidask said:
    That’s easy

    Fabulous cartwheel luster !

    That’s only possible on circulated coins down, grade-wise, to a certain point. What about coins whose grades
    don’t include luster?

    It's so subjective.

    I want it to be PRETTY to ME. LOL.

    That sometimes means excellent details for the grade with a natural-looking surface. It sometimes means "character". Sometimes it means a patina that highlights some design element.

    Sometimes, I dislike the design so much that it will never have "eye appeal" to me.

    Is the issue supposed to be individual eye appeal or a professional grader's interpretation of eye appeal?

    All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.

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    Insider2Insider2 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 6:56PM

    @oldUScoins said: "That’s cool - it’s a personal preference type of thing. As you say - “would be very attractive to me”. But not necessarily to me."

    Then I'll change my post: IT SHOULD BE MORE ATTRACTIVE TO ANY NUMISMATIST.

    Eye appeal is a matter of an acquired "eye." It has NOTHING to do with value. It should also have nothing to do with the design but I believe that is a harder thing to put out of our mind.

    Each level of grade from 1 to 70 has coins with great eye appeal for what they are. I'm sorry to disagree but if we lined up a group of coins in various grades and let a group of PROFESSIONAL NUMISMATISTS who make their living buying coins rate them by eye appeal, I'll guarantee the coins with eye appeal (for what they are) would be universally singled out! So you see, the more YOUR/OUR/MY opinion of eye appeal matches theirs - the better. The coin's grade does not matter.

    Or you can be like Ricko and hate toning. Or hate any coin below AU. There is nothing wrong with that either.

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    My thoughts are as follows:
    Must see coins in person.

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    Happy New Year, all;

    I too am late to this thread, so I thank BryceM for expressing my thoughts exactly.

    In silver, my grade targets are VF30-xf45. I won't consider a coin unless it has an original medium silvery--gray color over the entire surface. (stress on original). Now here is a coin of mine that I like very much:

    Whit
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    @drddm said:
    I think the answers should be very interesting.

    Happy New Year everyone!
    Dave

    I think it would be better to assess eye appeal instead of defining it because eye appeal by itself can be defined as visual attractiveness. So when presented with a circulated coin you would assess its degree of visual attractiveness.

    theknowitalltroll;
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    @Whit said:
    Happy New Year, all;

    I too am late to this thread, so I thank BryceM for expressing my thoughts exactly.

    In silver, my grade targets are VF30-xf45. I won't consider a coin unless it has an original medium silvery--gray color over the entire surface. (stress on original). Now here is a coin of mine that I like very much:

    Nice coin, but take away the grunge line around the devices and the darker areas around the letters and other hard to access areas and you've taken away the contrast and end up with a very blah looking coin.

    theknowitalltroll;
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    @BAJJERFAN said:

    @Whit said:
    Happy New Year, all;

    I too am late to this thread, so I thank BryceM for expressing my thoughts exactly.

    In silver, my grade targets are VF30-xf45. I won't consider a coin unless it has an original medium silvery--gray color over the entire surface. (stress on original). Now here is a coin of mine that I like very much:

    Nice coin, but take away the grunge line around the devices and the darker areas around the letters and other hard to access areas and you've taken away the contrast and end up with a very blah looking coin.

    Not sure I get your point. If you strip the paint off the Mona Lisa, you end up with a white canvas. So don't do that.

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    I don’t know why, but that reply is perfect!

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    the ideal coin looks like it was circulated, then preserved.

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    It's interesting that the ....posted.....examples are....toned.

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    I think Baijerfan (5 posts up) was taking my comment about surface color beyond my intentions. The grunge of which he speaks is a foregone conclusion in the protected areas of an original coin in the indicated grade range. In my experience, to require otherwise on an original coin would be to acquire practically nothing at all.

    Whit

    Whit
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    @CoinJunkie said:

    @BAJJERFAN said:

    @Whit said:
    Happy New Year, all;

    I too am late to this thread, so I thank BryceM for expressing my thoughts exactly.

    In silver, my grade targets are VF30-xf45. I won't consider a coin unless it has an original medium silvery--gray color over the entire surface. (stress on original). Now here is a coin of mine that I like very much:

    Nice coin, but take away the grunge line around the devices and the darker areas around the letters and other hard to access areas and you've taken away the contrast and end up with a very blah looking coin.

    Not sure I get your point. If you strip the paint off the Mona Lisa, you end up with a white canvas. So don't do that.

    Because to me that's what gives the coin the eye appeal that I like. If the coin is 100% dull gray in appearance it's not a keeper nor even a consideration for me.

    theknowitalltroll;
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    Even coloring, nicely outlined design details for those details that remain, a little luster where appropriate for the grade, no spots, no stains, no blotches, no distracting marks. It would be the coin you would use to show a novice how to grade.

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    @emeraldATV said:
    My thoughts are as follows:
    Must see coins in person.

    I have a very good imagination. I can see the coins I describe. B)

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