Request for opinions on grade

I'm just wondering if it's worth slabbing. I'm not great at grading buffalos myself.
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The best collecting goals lie right on the border between the possible and the impossible. - Andy Lustig, "MrEureka"
Comments
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That's some heavy duty shelf doubling or is there a DDO for 1913 ?
Steve
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@OldEastside said:
That's some heavy duty shelf doubling or is there a DDO for 1913 ?Steve
Wow didn't even notice that. No variety listed on PCGS Coinfacts. There's a DDR but no DDO. Maybe someone here would know better.
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The best collecting goals lie right on the border between the possible and the impossible. - Andy Lustig, "MrEureka"
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It's shelf doubling. You're right. Pretty good example.
The coin has a very good strike on the central obverse and reverse, but neat the rim, especially from the tail to the rear leg it is weak. Uneven strikes are common in the Buff series, and your coin shows it pretty well.
There seems to be some wear or rub, but it is so light that I think you might get an MS-63 grade. You would make little to nothing moneywise if you slab the coin.
The toning is splotchy, as witnessed by the area near the hip. I wouldn't go as far as to call it negative, though. The look to me is about average. It also looks to be a mid die state coin.
In short I like the coin. It's a little dark, with an excellent central strike,
My opinion is to not slab it.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon3 -
@BuffaloIronTail said:
It's shelf doubling. You're right. Pretty good example.The coin has a very good strike on the central obverse and reverse, but neat the rim, especially from the tail to the rear leg it is weak. Uneven strikes are common in the Buff series, and your coin shows it pretty well.
There seems to be some wear or rub, but it is so light that I think you might get an MS-63 grade. You would make little to nothing moneywise if you slab the coin.
The toning is splotchy, as witnessed by the area near the hip. I wouldn't go as far as to call it negative, though. The look to me is about average. It also looks to be a mid die state coin.
In short I like the coin. It's a little dark, with an excellent central strike,
My opinion is to not slab it.
Pete
Thanks for that! Exactly what I was needing.
Cheers!https://numismaticmuse.com/ My Web Gallery
The best collecting goals lie right on the border between the possible and the impossible. - Andy Lustig, "MrEureka"
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Does that have wear around the rim below the Liberty or is that just the image? I like it.
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Bronze Associate member1 -
@Kkathyl said:
Does that have wear around the rim below the Liberty or is that just the image? I like it.Don't think it's wear. I believe it is the result of an uneven strike like on the reverse. LIBERTY is normally weak on early buffs from 1913-15.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon3 -
@BuffaloIronTail is there a good resource to read about shelf doubling?
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The best collecting goals lie right on the border between the possible and the impossible. - Andy Lustig, "MrEureka"
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There are any number of sources online. If you search for "doubled die" or "what is a doubled die" you will probably get some good hits.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon0 -
It looks UNC to me. I do not know the grading on these as well at the experts that have already spoken. But to me I see a lack of marks, the odd tone on the hip, but would grade it a couple points higher than 63.
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That is a well struck buffalo, but not worth the fees and shipping to be slabbed. Keep it as a nice 1913 T1 Buff. There are some extreme machine doubling coins and until you discover what they are and how they are made its tough to not think they are doubled dies. Here is an example. Below are two articles by the two top tier grading companies explaining mechanical doubling. Best of luck and welcome to the forum.
https://www.pcgs.com/news/Collecting-My-Thoughts-Understanding-Machine-Doubling-Damage
https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/5688/Double-Dies-vs-Machine-Doubling/
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
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@jesbroken said:
That is a well struck buffalo, but not worth the fees and shipping to be slabbed. Keep it as a nice 1913 T1 Buff. There are some extreme machine doubling coins and until you discover what they are and how they are made its tough to not think they are doubled dies. Here is an example. Below are two articles by the two top tier grading companies explaining mechanical doubling. Best of luck and welcome to the forum.
https://www.pcgs.com/news/Collecting-My-Thoughts-Understanding-Machine-Doubling-Damage
https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/5688/Double-Dies-vs-Machine-Doubling/
JimThat's good information, Jim. Me thinks that it is just what the OP needs.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon0 -
@Batman23 said:
It looks UNC to me. I do not know the grading on these as well at the experts that have already spoken. But to me I see a lack of marks, the odd tone on the hip, but would grade it a couple points higher than 63.It is uncirculated. I mention the surface of the coin in regards to some very minor "scuffing". The dark and somewhat uneven toning IMHOP will knock the grade down.
It's my best guess.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon1 -
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@OldEastside said:
That's some heavy duty shelf doubling or is there a DDO for 1913 ?Steve
yes, shelf doubling
Frank
BHNC #2030 -
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63 to me
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Looks like a solid MS63 to me... Good album or self slab coin... Cheers, RickO
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