Thinking of sending sum of my coins off for grading🤔not just my Peace dollar! What do you think?
SilverProofQuarter1883
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Hi the peace dollar is not the only coin I am thinking about getting sent in for grading. is it a good idea?, witch are the best to send in? the rest of my coins are shown above.
1
Comments
What is the flip on the 43-D Jefferson? I have seen a few of those. All I can usually read is "Falmo".
Don't send any of them in. The cost of slabbing will probably exceed their value. Don't waste money slabbing low value coins.
Instead of buying all of those just buy one already graded nice coin.
I had them for I wile, I got them form a trusted friend who is coin dealer, he reacently moved away, I just got submition privileges to NGC since I reacently became an ANA member about a month ago
Is that a 1923 or a 1928 Peace dollar? Makes a big difference.
Edited to add:
From the other thread I see that it is a 1923. This is probably the most common or second-most common Peace dollar coin. This issue is still available by the hundreds (or possibly thousands) in raw, mint-state condition. They minted 31 million of these.
Looking at the other thread, I see plenty of rim dings. It's impossible to see from the photos if there is a bit of rub, but there are very clearly a number of hairlines. It will either get a "cleaned" no-grade designation or possibly a low MS grade such as MS62. I see very little possibility that it will come back as anything higher than a $50 coin, and most likely the slab will add no value. It's worth maybe $25-30 raw. It would cost you at least $40 or $50 to have it graded if you factor in the costs of shipping, etc.
As a general rule, a coin should probably be worth $150-$200 to be worth slabbing, and you have to factor in the risk of a no-grade or a lower-than-expected grade.
T
this is the reverse
I personally will not grade anything under $200 in value. Makes no economic sense. None of your meet that leve, just enjoy them for what they are, old and pretty!
bob
Thanks! I am not familiar with them. I will check them out!
From basic economics, the coin needs to be worth at least the cost of slabbing (and shipping) more than the coin would be worth raw. In most cases, this would be coin valued between $100 and $200, but depending on the coin it could be much less (like a high-grade, common coin) or much more (like a circulated 1894 dollar, where the grade matters less than the guarantee of authenticity). None of the coins you showed would be worth anywhere near $100 even if you got the grade you wanted. Also, you have to be pretty sure that it won't get a details grade.
Why do you want them slabbed?
BryceM..............just click on the pic and then blow it up............1923.
bob
It makes sense to not send in not so valuable coin but at the same time if I spent hundreds on a valuable raw coin to get it graded later, wouldn’t I be taking a big risk?
Probably a smart idea not to spend a lot of money on a raw coin unless you are with a professional numismatist at the time of purchase. HUGE RISK!!!!!
Don't buy raw coins unless you are an expert in both grading and authentication. There is usually a reason why "valuable" coins are still raw ... and it isn't a good reason.
It depends on how good you are at authenticating and grading.
You are much safer buying slabbed coins in the beginning if your goal is collecting slabbed coins which haven't been messed with too badly. I started out with folders of Lincolns, Jeffersons, Roosevelts, etc. Slabs were useless to me then.
Do you want to slab it because it has sentimental value? If so, do it. I know some members have done so for items given to them by a family member. But if its not for that reason and not over 100 bucks, you shouldn't do it.
I will say this though, I've sent in coins that were 15-20 in value because I just could not find a slabbed copy for my registry as there was only a few slabbed .
Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
I want to try and grade these coins since I have never sent in coins for grading, I only have bought graded coins. The peace dollar was given to me as a gift for volunteering at a collectibles shop. It was volunteering for school.
Yea I am think it’s best to save the grading on a more cooler coin, maby sum time soon I will come by a little treasure I can get graded.
Alwright maybe the Peace since it was a free gift to me, the rest will stay in the coin flips
I have felt the same before about sending in things to have a graded example. I usually weigh the cost of grading versus buying one already graded. I have had graded many “low value” nickels under $100 value each.
For your 4 pictured coins if you already have a PCGS memebership...
At lowest cost economy 40-60 days
Return Shipping is $23.05
Regular grading is $22 per coin ($88) And 23.05= $112.05
$10 handling fee $122.05
For a total of $122.05*********
If you are not a member already the lowest cost membership is $69
For a total of $191.05********
Lowest eBay price for PCGS COINS this dime is around $60
The dollar $30-50 grade depends
The nickel if ms65fs under $40
The 1802 lowest is around $70 for details and $180-230 ish for an actual grade.
This would be about $320*********
with all coins with grades or $140ish plus 80ish for details large cent for a total around
$220 *********off eBay.
Essentially what people are saying is that spending an additional $35-$135 would guarantee you already graded coins. Spending less for self grading (or more if you need membership)
Pcgs prices guesstimated
I don’t know Ngc prices because I don’t deal with them or their coins 99.92% of the time.
Best wishes
Rocco
Edited for bad math many times.
https://www.autismforums.com/media/albums/acrylic-colors-by-rocco.291/
Thanks so much, your advice is vary helpful @Aspie_Rocco, just to tell you my membership is NGC though the ANA. Maybe y sum day I will sign up for PCGS submission privileges 👍
It probably isn't worth slabbing but check the '76-CC for very obvious doubling on AMERICA.
@markelman1125...tell us what your opinions are on grades for these and what you think they would grade if you sent them. Then evaluate what those grades would mean to you and what you are willing to pay to have them encapsulated. Lots of great advice already given.
Yup I don’t know, I might just send one of them to get expirence on sending coins in for grading but other than that I think I should not do the rest.
I f you have never sent a coin in for grading, and you can afford to send these in, ** I WOULD do it**.
WHY?
That's what I did. Use all resources including PCGS Photograde and grade them yourself, then see how they come back from the grading company.
In my simple mind it is a very inexpensive way to learn.......far cheaper than buying many coins that you do not know the 'real' grade of.
JMO
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Save your money this time. Buy some coins worth grading if you must. Submission privileges aren't a paid PCGS membership with a submission voucher.