Some grades with a detail question.
keets
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I mailed in a group of the later date SLQ's and actually came out better than I thought. Most of the MS64's I had at MS63 and the Full Head coins I had graded MS64FH and MS63FH. Fortunately, although I wasn't correctly in line with PCGS on most of the coins I tend to under-grade this series.
So here is my question --- Do you think it is wiser to buy a higher graded non-FH coin with better overall detail --- or --- Do you think it's better to buy the FH coin at a lower grade, even though it will probably have less detail and probably more leg chatter??
I personally opt for the first choice, better overall detail. Please comment and thanks in advance.
Al H.
Line Items Cert# PCGS # Description Grade Country
1 1 35346202 5752 1925 25C MS64 USA
2 1 35346203 5754 1926 25C MS64 USA
3 1 35346204 5756 1926-D 25C MS64 USA
4 1 35346205 5758 1926-S 25C MS63 USA
5 1 35346206 5760 1927 25C MS64 USA
6 1 35346207 5762 1927-D 25C MS64 USA
7 1 35346208 5764 1927-S 25C AU53 USA
8 1 35346209 5766 1928 25C MS64 USA
9 1 35346210 5768 1928-D 25C MS64 USA
10 1 35346211 5770 1928-S 25C MS64 USA
11 1 35346212 5773 1929 25C, FH MS64FH USA
12 1 35346213 5774 1929-D 25C MS64 USA
13 1 35346214 5777 1929-S 25C, FH MS66FH USA
14 1 35346215 5779 1930 25C, FH MS64FH USA
15 1 35346216 5780 1930-S 25C MS64 USA
Comments
I always prefer a coin with the designation, FH, FB, FS over a higher grade coin with no designation. I just feel the coin is lacking without the designation.
Greater detail especially with the shield. I have maintained that a full shield designation was more approperiate than a Full Head based on the design, location and even the amount of space the shield takes over a small head. I have never seen the head of the SLQ as the focal point of the design. I accept that my view is in the minority and I am fine with that.
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Not exactly sure what you are asking
to clarify..........................
Would you prefer a coin graded MS63FH with more detail at the earhole but less detail around the shield and probably more chatter down the leg??
Would you prefer a coin graded MS64/65 with a little less detail at the ear-hole but more detail in the shield area and less chatter down the leg??
this assumes all other things such as luster, tone, etc. to be equal.
Disclaimer - this is not a series I collect - I have zero examples of the type other than an old worn 27s from a flea market I bought for melt.
At a high level, I would want a coin that was fully struck. If that means FH or shield rivets or whatever, so be it. I'll leave the debate on what is the best strike designation to others more versed than I.
Repeating, I would opt for the coin with more details - don't care about the "official" designation.
Not to derail this thread, but I think the Registry participants have a lot to gain (or lose) by defending whatever strike designation gets them the most registry points. Sounds to me that for SLQs, the better coins may not get getting the appropriate registry points. Just sayin'.
Lastly, I have been looking for a nice Type 1 SLQ for type for a long time. I have limited the search for FH examples, but I will now look at others as well.
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!
Since current "grades" appear to be inflated, I'm not sure it matters. Look for overall detail, not just the head.
Better overall detail for sure, especially since the FH premium can be enormous. Here are two coins, neither of which grades FH. For the life of me, I can’t figure it out on the 1917-D. The other is super close on the 3 leaves but the rest is hammered. That tiny difference saved me about $25K at the 67+ level.
David, your post is exactly my point. I have seen too, too many coins which were FH and had weakness overall and chatter that isn't attractive down the center. to place a premium on that tiny area isn't how I want to collect or spend my money.
Exactly, the head is just one detail. I think flat head coins don't look nearly as nice, but at the margins, I think the premiums are ridiculous for a microscopic differences (for all series). I search for full braid buffalo nickels, too, but even then, it's possible for the braid to be full but for the lettering to be weak (or parts of the reverse).
I think the designations are what they are because they can all be conveniently defined and it works for the registry set.
I’m glad my series doesn’t have a strike designation. Of all of the criteria that make up a grade I think strike is the easiest to understand (at least when you get the strike vs wear thing straight). We can all see it. Hair-splitting that results swings of thousands of $$ is a little silly really.
BTW the 1917 posted looks FH to me.
I prefer overall detail in a coin. For the SLQ's, that means good shield details, clean and defined leg and fingers.. nice head is good
but the ultra definition of FH is not necessary... For me, it is always the overall appeal of the coin, not some minute detail that has become a selling point. Cheers, RickO
Highest grade coins without the designation are not vital for me; I would rather have a fully lustrous mark free example than a lower grade fully struck one in most cases. Perfection carries a hefty price tag. The designations seem a little gimmicky to me and then you have levels of compliance with the designation. "Fully rounded and split"; fully this, fully that. You will pay for the top quality cac stickered too.
A very sweet run of grades here. No rejects and NICE on the 29-S. They have been tough on these coins lately, in spite of the above comment. Did you find all of these as raw coins?
Since I do care about resale value on my coins, I would pick a FH any day of the week, unless the toning was off the charts on another.
Wabbit, these came out of a collection and were in a Capital Plastic Set holder. most of the coins are brilliant with no tone but a couple have some gold color. I know the previous owner but he didn't say how long he had them, probably 10-20 years because he's been "threatening" to sell them for awhile.