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What do you find is the easiest "line" to determine between two adjacent, yet different grades?

Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited December 10, 2017 1:39PM in U.S. Coin Forum

I have recently learned that some very knowledgeable folks have trouble determining when a coin is not a perfect "70" and drops to a "69." This is very hard for me to believe as I think the difference between a "69" and "70" is the easiest to learn. It can be explained in about one minute in a grading class or written in less space than I've taken here.

Do you agree? If not, in your opinion what is the easiest "line?" AU or MS? P-1 to F-2?

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    DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭

    AU/MS

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DIMEMAN said:
    AU/MS

    And why is that? I have found that there is more debate NONSENSE and CONFUSION about this line (AU/MS) than all the others combined!

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    DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I think the circ lines/marks are easy to determine. PCGS may not always agree with me. but I know AU from UNC. ;)

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DIMEMAN said:
    I think the circ lines/marks are easy to determine. PCGS may not always agree with me. but I know AU from UNC. ;)

    OK, how much cabinet friction will you tolerate on a dime before it drops to AU in your opinion or are you "old school" (NO TRACE OF WEAR)?

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    RogerBRogerB Posts: 8,852 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Clear, consistent, openly defined, and stable standards. All three major TPGs and the ANA should have and use these same standards. This will also end most "grade inflation."

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    DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Insider2 said:

    @DIMEMAN said:
    I think the circ lines/marks are easy to determine. PCGS may not always agree with me. but I know AU from UNC. ;)

    OK, how much cabinet friction will you tolerate on a dime before it drops to AU in your opinion or are you "old school" (NO TRACE OF WEAR)?

    I guess I am "old school" no friction. And 4 grades of UNC not 22!!

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    leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,542 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'd like everyone to think including the TPGSs that a well defined, detailed strike is the fine line for anything grading above MS64.......but they don't.

    The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

    My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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    GoldminersGoldminers Posts: 4,410 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Insider2 said:
    I have recently learned that some very knowledgeable folks have trouble determining when a coin is not a perfect "70" and drops to a "69." This is very hard for me to believe as I think the difference between a "69" and "70" is the easiest to learn. It can be explained in about one minute in a grading class or written in less space than I've taken here.

    Do you agree? If not, in your opinion what is the easiest "line?" AU or MS? P-1 to F-2?

    Please take up a few lines of extra space to educate me and others on how to determine this so easily.

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    ChrisH821ChrisH821 Posts: 7,099 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I thought 70 is no defects visible under 10x magnification, 69 allows for one or two?

    Collector, occasional seller

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    GoldminersGoldminers Posts: 4,410 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ChrisH821 said:
    I thought 70 is no defects visible under 10x magnification, 69 allows for one or two?

    I believe 5X is the standard, but the issue is what is a defect?

    "As struck" is the defining word, but if a planchets has pits, discoloration, milk spots, and then the die is old, worn, broken, or psi on the press is out of adjustment for the right planchets, you get weak strikes, or if rings are worn rims are crooked, and then there is Mint handling, packaging, and they fall on each other at the bottom of the press and get dinged, etc. Then the packaging when it is sent and you get coins out of the holders. But even if everything looks right to me, I have sent in 100's coins that I look at carefully at 5X and received plenty of 69's

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    TPRCTPRC Posts: 3,817 ✭✭✭✭✭

    62/63 is my vote

    Tom

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 10, 2017 7:23PM

    @leothelyon said:
    I'd like everyone to think including the TPGSs that a well defined, detailed strike is the fine line for anything grading above MS64.......but they don't.

    Well, they did in the past. Unfortunately, some strike weakness started to be allowed on "65's" as grading "evolved" (TPGS's loosened their original standards).

    @Goldminers said:

    @Insider2 said:
    I have recently learned that some very knowledgeable folks have trouble determining when a coin is not a perfect "70" and drops to a "69." This is very hard for me to believe as I think the difference between a "69" and "70" is the easiest to learn. It can be explained in about one minute in a grading class or written in less space than I've taken here.

    Do you agree? If not, in your opinion what is the easiest "line?" AU or MS? P-1 to F-2?

    Please take up a few lines of extra space to educate me and others on how to determine this so easily.

    Tell you what. If you have an ANA grading guide, turn to the Morgan dollar section and look at the chart. I'm going to let others post here a little longer. I'm sure with the caliber of members here, someone will answer your question before then.

    Here is a previous discussion on this forum about the MS-70 grade: "Can Someone explain an MS-70 coin with blemishes and milk spots?"

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    CryptoCrypto Posts: 4,098 ✭✭✭✭✭

    40-50 really talking about luster

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    MoldnutMoldnut Posts: 3,116 ✭✭✭✭

    I'm going to say G to VG

    Derek

    EAC 6024
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    mannie graymannie gray Posts: 7,259 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Crypto said:
    40-50 really talking about luster

    I don't think "lines" really exist, except perhaps for the one mentioned above, and even that one gets shifted a lot by the winds of gradeflation.

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    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    'Lines' are very blurry in coin grading.... that is why every grade is an opinion. As I have stated here many times (almost ad nauseum), there are no standards.... without standards there can be no lines...just imaginary 'areas' of possible agreement among a narrow majority of viewers. I come from a very long career where standards are mandatory and clearly defined..... and have a hobby in which there are none. Must have been my mental 'escape mechanism' when work got to be too demanding. ;) So, discuss your lines, argue about grades, put forth theories - it is all for naught until true standards are defined and implemented. Cheers, RickO

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Crypto said: "I don't think "lines" really exist, except perhaps for the one mentioned above, and even that one gets shifted a lot by the winds of gradeflation."

    IMO, if you wish to "get anywhere" when discussing questions about grading such as this thread, you'll need to approach it as if it were a question not associated with reality. Hope this made sense. We know there is no grading standard that is followed by everyone. We know there is a wide gulf between AU coins graded as MS and true MS coins. Gradeflation should not come into the discussion either.

    I have an opinion. I believe the easiest grade to identify is PR/MS-70 because if the coin has ONLY ONE defect (mint made or not) it is not a "70" and drops to a "69." What could be easier?

    Now, I'm interested in the "line" between grades that is easiest for you. Is it the same as mine?

    Do you find it very easy to grade a coin an XF-40 rather than an XF-45 or AU? Is the easiest "line" between the G or Very Good grade?

    @Goldminers Did your question get answered in the grading guide?

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    GoldminersGoldminers Posts: 4,410 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Insider2,

    Thanks for the link. There are also plenty of grading guidelines, Photograde help, etc on the PCGS site also so no need to explain. I just have found that very often I do not see the "only one defect". I even use a 6X and have tried to distinguish 69-70 on hundreds of coins and find I am just not able to tell. I try real hard not to waste grading money on modern coins, so I do look pretty close, but I would say I am right only about 60% of the time in determining 70's. So my vote would not be 69/70.

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Goldminers said:
    Insider2,

    Thanks for the link. There are also plenty of grading guidelines, Photograde help, etc on the PCGS site also so no need to explain. I just have found that very often I do not see the "only one defect". I even use a 6X and have tried to distinguish 69-70 on hundreds of coins and find I am just not able to tell. I try real hard not to waste grading money on modern coins, so I do look pretty close, but I would say I am right only about 60% of the time in determining 70's. So my vote would not be 69/70.

    That is quite a well thought out answer. We can all learn from a post with the reasons for an opinion are given!

    Try this, It's easy...

    1. Look at the entire coin with only your eyes. While you look at it turn it slowly (rotate) while at the same time rock it toward you and away from you (tip) under a 75W to 100W bulb. If still perfect, put your magnifying glass up to your eye and bring the coin closer to your eye until it is in sharp focus. Now tip and rotate it again as you examine it. Make sure to look at the tops of each letter on both sides. Many divide the parts of one side of the coin into quarters so they don't miss a section. If it is still perfect. stick it under a florescent light. Any of the typical gray-white spots see on these coins will "pop" right out with no magnification necessary.

    Here is what you need to decide. Many of the TPGS will allow tiny Mint-made strike thru marks on a coin they grade "70." These are actually "defects." While I agree with this practice, you don't need to. A perfect MS/PR-70 should be perfect. No spots, hairlines, "hits," or mint made marks. :)

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    BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Probably VG/Fine for the kind of coins i usuallly collect (early quarters and halves by die variety and on a budget)

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

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    GoldminersGoldminers Posts: 4,410 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Insider2, Thanks very much. I will print your methodology and try it on my next submissions. You may have saved me some money!

    Did you mean a black light or fluorescent just to be sure.

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    fluorescent

    It takes the glare off the surface and makes it easy to see luster loss or stains.

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    jonrunsjonruns Posts: 1,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    XF45 to AU50 for me

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    TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 45,023 ✭✭✭✭✭

    There's a greater dividing line between PO-01 and FR-02, with all the clamoring going on for the 1.

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    TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 45,023 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Easiest is between AU 58 and MS 60. I submit MS 60 coins and they come back AU 58.

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    BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,525 ✭✭✭✭✭

    if it is this difficult to pinpoint, grading must be subjective :p

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    291fifth291fifth Posts: 25,177 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If in doubt, it always goes to the lower grade.

    All glory is fleeting.
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    BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,525 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @291fifth said:
    If in doubt, it always goes to the lower grade.

    when you are buying.

    when selling... ;)

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    tommy44tommy44 Posts: 2,341 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DIMEMAN said:
    I guess I am "old school" no friction. And 4 grades of UNC not 22!!

    Only 22? Did you forget about green and gold beans? That adds up to 132 UNC grades if my math is correct.

    I guess I'm "old old school", UNC, CHOICE UNC and GEM UNC.

    it's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide

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    BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Why not " old old old school "?

    Only 2 grades: New and Worn.

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

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    10000lakes10000lakes Posts: 811 ✭✭✭✭

    60 and 61
    A 60 usually looks like it been in a knife fight.
    The majority of today's 61 are just upgraded 58's from years ago, and a lot don't have many marks.

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @10000lakes said:
    60 and 61
    A 60 usually looks like it been in a knife fight.
    The majority of today's 61 are just upgraded 58's from years ago, and a lot don't have many marks.

    Disagree. MS-61 coins have many marks. So do MS-62's. I find that the brightness of the luster separates these two grades most of the time. Besides, these days "60" and "61" are seldom seen. In my experience, very many coins go from AU, to AU (MS-62). B)

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    CryptoCrypto Posts: 4,098 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 12, 2017 4:35PM

    @Insider2 said:

    @10000lakes said:
    60 and 61
    A 60 usually looks like it been in a knife fight.
    The majority of today's 61 are just upgraded 58's from years ago, and a lot don't have many marks.

    Disagree. MS-61 coins have many marks. So do MS-62's. I find that the brightness of the luster separates these two grades most of the time. Besides, these days "60" and "61" are seldom seen. In my experience, very many coins go from AU, to AU (MS-62). B)

    Ms60 and 61 are my fav grade



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    10000lakes10000lakes Posts: 811 ✭✭✭✭

    @Insider2 said:

    @10000lakes said:
    60 and 61
    A 60 usually looks like it been in a knife fight.
    The majority of today's 61 are just upgraded 58's from years ago, and a lot don't have many marks.

    Disagree. MS-61 coins have many marks. So do MS-62's. I find that the brightness of the luster separates these two grades most of the time. Besides, these days "60" and "61" are seldom seen. In my experience, very many coins go from AU, to AU (MS-62). B)

    I guess I should have qualified my answer, since I only collect Morgans and $20 liberty gold.
    In those two series, I stand by my answer ;)

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    Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Crypto said:

    @Insider2 said:

    @10000lakes said:
    60 and 61
    A 60 usually looks like it been in a knife fight.
    The majority of today's 61 are just upgraded 58's from years ago, and a lot don't have many marks.

    Disagree. MS-61 coins have many marks. So do MS-62's. I find that the brightness of the luster separates these two grades most of the time. Besides, these days "60" and "61" are seldom seen. In my experience, very many coins go from AU, to AU (MS-62). B)

    Ms60 and 61 are my fav grade



    All this demonstrates to me is you was robbed!

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    leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,542 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 13, 2017 11:45AM

    @Crypto said:

    @Insider2 said:

    @10000lakes said:
    60 and 61
    A 60 usually looks like it been in a knife fight.
    The majority of today's 61 are just upgraded 58's from years ago, and a lot don't have many marks.

    Disagree. MS-61 coins have many marks. So do MS-62's. I find that the brightness of the luster separates these two grades most of the time. Besides, these days "60" and "61" are seldom seen. In my experience, very many coins go from AU, to AU (MS-62). B)

    Ms60 and 61 are my fav grade



    From here, those would all Gold bean but also would clutter the label. Leave them be as someone has already agreed to their higher quality.

    Leo

    The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

    My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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    leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,542 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Also, just like people beg for higher grades, they can also beg for lower grades.........and there's nothing wrong with that but, by chance, did you make these?

    Leo

    The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

    My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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