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Steelers72 · August 6, 2017 10:42AM

Delete

AUandAG · August 6, 2017 10:45AM

Yes, absolutely. what does it weigh?
bob

BIGAL2749 · August 6, 2017 10:51AM

Yes and it's quite nice

Steelers72 · August 6, 2017 11:06AM

@AUandAG said:
Yes, absolutely. what does it weigh?
bob

@BIGAL2749 said:
Yes and it's quite nice

Thank you ! I have to weigh it, don't have a scale right now. Some people noted the letters as being different from graded examples; particularly the "420 grams .900 fine" as being thinner. To me, I think it looks good.

A PCGS graded example for comparison below (another collector did an image overlay for me comparing this graded example below and mine & found that the coin aligned perfectly).

USMarine6 · August 6, 2017 11:18AM

Looks good from here but not an expect in this series by any means. Nicely toned trade $'s are hard to come by. Nice coin

mbogoman · August 6, 2017 1:14PM

Looks legit to me.

kaz · August 6, 2017 2:15PM

I think it's real, and attractive, too.

tradedollarnut · August 6, 2017 4:32PM

Real...and blatant AT

Crypto · August 6, 2017 4:49PM

@tradedollarnut said:
Real...and blatant AT

This, 100% real and very little chance at a straight grade. UNC details

Steelers72 · August 6, 2017 4:50PM

@tradedollarnut said:
Real...and blatant AT
@Crypto said:

@tradedollarnut said:
Real...and blatant AT

This, 100% real and very little chance at a straight grade. UNC details

Thanks for your opinion. Can you elaborate on the AT? That is the first AT comment on coin. The luster cartwheels in hand, could take a video of it if needed. Just curious as to how you made that determination for learning purposes. The toning seems legitimate in hand.

Crypto · August 6, 2017 5:01PM

the pink and blue greens are not "common" color progressions like that and the target tone in that pattern at best is secondary Album toning after cleaning as well.

No real path to an organic origin

tradedollarnut · August 6, 2017 6:35PM

I have an 1877 with the same toning. Probably done by the same guy. Absolutely positively AT.

kaz · August 6, 2017 7:36PM

I would just add that it appears to me that the white balance is off in the photos and the colors we are seeing may not be accurate.

Kove · August 6, 2017 10:42PM

My first thought was real, and my second thought was AT.

ricko · August 7, 2017 4:17AM

It is a genuine Trade Dollar.... and yes, AT....artfully done, but nonetheless artificial....Too long exposure. Cheers, RickO

Steelers72 · August 7, 2017 9:17AM

delete

tradedollarnut · August 7, 2017 9:46AM

Twins!

Insider2 · August 7, 2017 10:04AM

I should not touch the coin! While the experts have weighed in: AT, IMO it is artful.

I also believe that if taken to a show "raw" there would be plenty of dealers who would consider it to be natural. That would have been the case decades ago too with may more NT opinions. Unfortunately with the skills of the "doctors" and the TPGS "crutch", most would be wary of the coin unless it were slabbed and deemed to be "market acceptable" whether AT or NT.

IMO, you should have sent it in to PCGS before posting it all over their internet site! Now you cannot send it to PCGS for sure. Send to NGC or ANACS. I think you'll have a good chance it gets straight graded no matter what the experts say.

RogerB · August 7, 2017 10:27AM

As others have noted, both the hand and coin are genuine, but the coin has been artificially tarnished.

Steelers72 · August 7, 2017 1:05PM

Delete

Steelers72 · August 7, 2017 1:07PM

@Insider2 said:

IMO, you should have sent it in to PCGS before posting it all over their internet site! Now you cannot send it to PCGS for sure. Send to NGC or ANACS. I think you'll have a good chance it gets straight graded no matter what the experts say.

If PCGS graders believe it to be genuine/NT or AT that would be their opinion based on their own analysis. Posting the coin on a forum shouldn't influence their decision, no?

tradedollarnut · August 7, 2017 1:59PM

If you paid more than $100 then yes you should return it. It cannot be conserved to anything more than a washed out widget

dcarr · August 7, 2017 2:17PM

@tradedollarnut said:
If you paid more than $100 then yes you should return it. It cannot be conserved to anything more than a washed out widget

Would you sell your 1877 for $100 ?
I'd pay that for it, and maybe $150 for the 1874 coin.

Insider2 · August 7, 2017 2:20PM

Actually, we'll never know and either will you! There are some very knowledgeable members telling you that the coin is AT. I will remind all of them that while toning is a random thing, very often coins can tone the same - just as the "twin" posted. The Tradolarnut has probably already sent the coin to PCGS and it came back as AT. That confirms my original advice not to touch the coin and try ANACS or NGC, I prefer ICG to ANACS but I feel the folks at ICG might agree that the coin is AT. Anyway, the coin is attractive and I'll bet folks will be in line to buy it - as is! >

Insider2 · August 7, 2017 2:32PM

@tradedollarnut said: "If you paid more than $100 then yes you should return it. It cannot be conserved to anything more than a washed out widget."

WOW, I hate to push that disagree button on anyone; ESPECIALLY a member with your credentials. IMHO, you must be living in the rarified atmosphere of a place most of us will never know. While I'll admit I know nothing about the value of a coin except what I see in the price guides WHICH I KNOW ARE JUST GUIDES, the first one I grabbed says an 1874-S Trade dollar is $100 in good! I should not dream of even having one like that and would not pay that kind of money for one in that grade either BUT....IM uninformed O, the OP's Trade dollar is worth multiples of the price you posted.

OP, don't touch your coin and don't return it UNTIL you tell Tradedollarnut what you actually paid for it. If you try to improve your coin, it will probably be UGLY! Even the biggest crooked dealer you can find will offer you more than $100! Heck, if you list it on Ebay, you should get at least $500.

Steelers72 · August 7, 2017 2:44PM

@Insider2 said:
@tradedollarnut said: "If you paid more than $100 then yes you should return it. It cannot be conserved to anything more than a washed out widget."

WOW, I hate to push that disagree button on anyone; ESPECIALLY a member with your credentials. IMHO, you must be living in the rarified atmosphere of a place most of us will never know. While I'll admit I know nothing about the value of a coin except what I see in the price guides WHICH I KNOW ARE JUST GUIDES, the first one I grabbed says an 1874-S Trade dollar is $100 in good! I should not dream of even having one like that and would not pay that kind of money for one in that grade either BUT....IM uninformed O, the OP's Trade dollar is worth multiples of the price you posted.

OP, don't touch your coin and don't return it UNTIL you tell Tradedollarnut what you actually paid for it. If you try to improve your coin, it will probably be UGLY! Even the biggest crooked dealer you can find will offer you more than $100! Heck, if you list it on Ebay, you should get at least $500.

I believe I paid around $350 for the coin, in what I believed was a fair price for a raw trade dollar in AU (my determination from the pictures provided).

Im on the fence now with all this new information about the coin.

tradedollarnut · August 7, 2017 4:27PM

@Insider2 said:
@tradedollarnut said: "If you paid more than $100 then yes you should return it. It cannot be conserved to anything more than a washed out widget."

WOW, I hate to push that disagree button on anyone; ESPECIALLY a member with your credentials. IMHO, you must be living in the rarified atmosphere of a place most of us will never know. While I'll admit I know nothing about the value of a coin except what I see in the price guides WHICH I KNOW ARE JUST GUIDES, the first one I grabbed says an 1874-S Trade dollar is $100 in good! I should not dream of even having one like that and would not pay that kind of money for one in that grade either BUT....IM uninformed O, the OP's Trade dollar is worth multiples of the price you posted.

OP, don't touch your coin and don't return it UNTIL you tell Tradedollarnut what you actually paid for it. If you try to improve your coin, it will probably be UGLY! Even the biggest crooked dealer you can find will offer you more than $100! Heck, if you list it on Ebay, you should get at least $500.

A problem coin is a problem forever.

Insider2 · August 7, 2017 4:28PM

Each coin is a object in itself. In my opinion you paid a fair price. Check Ebay and see what others go for.

I also think the coin is probably AT but that is the easy route to take. The opinion of other members carries more weight than mine as they know pricing.

While the last image of your coin is attractive, when the outside edges of a coin are black, it usually cannot be conserved to original frosty white. I does have some rub; but I don't think there are many dealers who would not sell it as an MS-62 a discounted price - over $800.

I should be interested to here the opinions from others.

Is $350 a fair price?
Would you buy the coin? What is the most you would you pay for it
Technical grade AU/Commercial grade_____?
I think most say AT. Nevertheless, fairly attractive or butt ugly. No other weasel-out options. LOL

I thank you in advance for your answers and I'll bet the OP will also.

PS It has been said that: "A problem coin is a problem forever."

This is true; however:

A problem coin is only a problem if it is detected.
If a problem is detected, the powers to be must determine if it is a "bad" problem or a "market acceptable" problem.
There are several major dealers and very many small dealers making a great living selling problem coins.
A problem coin is all many can afford.
Finally, I love problem coins that are as nice looking as yours and the OP's.

Kove · August 7, 2017 4:46PM

Here's the deal: Most AT coins are toned because they are trying to hide something (anything from minor hairlines to harsher cleaning or even a repair).

If the coin is only AT with no deeper issues such as cleaning, then I think $350 is an ok price for a non-chopmarked coin. However, if that toning is hiding something, then the pricing and resale value goes south in a hurry.

Insider2 · August 7, 2017 4:50PM

@Kove said:
Here's the deal: Most AT coins are toned because they are trying to hide something (anything from minor hairlines to harsher cleaning or even a repair).

If the coin is only AT with no deeper issues such as cleaning, then I think $350 is an ok price for a non-chopmarked coin. However, if that toning is hiding something, then the pricing and resale value goes south in a hurry.

It's really shiny in the first images but I see no evidence of harsh cleaning.

Kove · August 7, 2017 4:56PM

@Kove said:
Most AT coins are toned because they are trying to hide something

And, FWIW, I personally think the coin was toned to hide some of the deeper marks in the left obverse field, as well as hits scattered elsewhere, such as at 4 o'clock on the obverse.

Steelers72 · August 8, 2017 11:25AM

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Crypto · August 10, 2017 5:10PM

The painted on look is telling

braddick · August 10, 2017 6:25PM

Gun bluing was used as a practice on many of these coins. If so, it is difficult to remove without leaving a mutted trace of the cleaning.

Steelers72 · August 10, 2017 10:31PM

@Crypto said:
The painted on look is telling

I'm not sure what you mean.

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