@Insider2 said: Thanks for confirming the variety!
@CoinsAndMoreCoins, a rookie to this forum has posted a disagreement to this statement. Two posters here have attributed the coin as O-111. Since @CoinAndMoreCoins must be an "Ex-pert" on this series, perhaps he should enlighten all of us about what he disagrees with about my attribution.
@CoinsAndMoreCoins Please provide the reason you do not think the OP's coin is O-111. Do you have the Overton reference book in your library?
Post's like the one above are childish and IMO, do not belong on Collectors Universe. There are several other Internet coin forums where this type of post is more fitting. You (and I) have chosen to join a group with some of the best minds in numismatics here. It might be best if you learned from them rather than cluttering the place up with nonsense.
Additionally, anyone with just a speck of experience examining the surface of coins closely would have no difficulty determining the yellow substance is dry and laying on the surface. Even the OP figured it out with a little coaching. Lacquer usually does not dry in this color or get stuck in the places and form (shape) that appear on this coin so glue is a pretty good guess.
Whatever it is, I have referred the OP to a conservation specialist to be walked-thru a process to improve his coin. I know what needs to be done but I am wary of posting the method as some ignorant dunce who did not recognize that the coin was not original, had no clue what the substance was, and who has probably never had an original numismatic thought might push the disagree button out of insecurity, personal jealousy, and frustration!
You made it do with the variety when you disagreed with my post: " Thanks for confirming the variety!
Since you disagreed with my post concerning O-111, what is it in your opinion? Still waiting.
Next, the color of an image DOES NOT produce "lakes" of color in the recesses of a design. It also does not produce "flaked-off" areas with an "undercut" laying on the surface of a coin.
I hope these observations will influence your opinion.
I should highly recommend that anyone on this thread take classes at the ANA Summer Seminars. When you reach a sufficient degree of proficiency, you'll be allowed to take the Advanced class dealing with problem coins. You may even have an excellent instructor in Basic Grading who will slip in some clues to detecting lacquer, glue, and tooling into the rookie class.
I am a novice with limited exposure to a wide variety of issues that can effect coins. I am a hobbiest that really enjoys collecting. I have never encountered glue on a silver coin before. I have seen it on a few fractional gold pieces and it was obvious, thick and could be peeled off. After searching images of glue on silver coins the color looks like glue. It does seem odd that it is all over both sides
@Face102030 said:
I am a novice with limited exposure to a wide variety of issues that can effect coins. I am a hobbiest that really enjoys collecting. I have never encountered glue on a silver coin before. I have seen it on a few fractional gold pieces and it was obvious, thick and could be peeled off. After searching images of glue on silver coins the color looks like glue. It does seem odd that it is all over both sides
Did you give the conservator a call?> @Insider2 said:
What part of my post below did you disagree with? Do you disagree with the Overton number? Do you disagree that I am still waiting? Do you disagree about detecting characteristics of glue? Do you disagree that the ANA's grading seminars being helpful? Or, have you embarrassed yourself and don't wish to be "called-out" for it.
Insider@ posted: "You made it do with the variety when you disagreed with my post: " Thanks for confirming the variety! Since you disagreed with my post concerning O-111, what is it in your opinion? Still waiting.
Next, the color of an image DOES NOT produce "lakes" of color in the recesses of a design. It also does not produce "flaked-off" areas with an "undercut" laying on the surface of a coin.
I hope these observations will influence your opinion.
I should highly recommend that anyone on this thread take classes at the ANA Summer Seminars. When you reach a sufficient degree of proficiency, you'll be allowed to take the Advanced class dealing with problem coins. You may even have an excellent instructor in Basic Grading who will slip in some clues to detecting lacquer, glue, and tooling into the rookie class.
Fortunately, none of this is personal to me - in fact, I enjoy and truly understand what is going on. There are many, many, trolls on the forums. Unfortunately, you are the first and only I have encountered on CU. Please keep showing the quality of your "numismatic knowledge."
@Face102030 said: "I have not called and I don't disagree that it is glue. Your help is appreciated."
Don't let the fuss between two fools (me and another) dull your enjoyment here. I recommend you call the fellow I recommended AND that you start a new thread: "How can I remove the yellow substance from my coin." If you do that, you will learn a lot more. Your images were PERFECT way past anything I could do.
@Face102030 said:
It does seem odd that it is all over both sides
It would be interesting to see more pix of it and possibly from different angles.
Having just glued this quarter to my desk with a 10 second zero effort, I'm the last one to go on a rabid bent of certainty based off just a couple jpgs.
Plenty have bought coins based off a few pix and been both pleasantly and unpleasantly surprised.
But heck, anyone can post coin pix, not everyone can bluster themselves jaunduced in the face keyboarding.
Nice try! Unfortunately, the coin you have chosen is not silver and does not have the relief of the OP's coin. Anyway, I suggest you remove most of the glue when it dries and change the camera settings and focus so only some glue is left, the image is sharp, and all the unnatural glare is gone. Check out the excellent images the OP posted and you may get an idea how to produce a useful image. I couldn't tell there was any glue on your quarter if you had not said so.
I have posted over 700 times on Collectors Universe. I am astonished (but not surprised considering the "quality" of your posts) that you could only find 136 of them to push the disagree button on with no added comment.
Don't you realize that you are enhancing my reputation! I challenge you to find ALL of my posts and disagree with each of them. Hopefully you'll take the time to read them so you learn something from your "busy work" for the numismatically challenged. Too bad we don't have crayons for you here so you can disagree in color...LOL!
PS I'll still love you when you come out from under the bridge!
You still have over 500 of my posts to go! I'll bet you are a coin roll hunter! That's why you only had some "pocket change" around to put the glue on. I know because it takes one to know one!
I won't be discouraged. It is both informative and entertaining like a pbs after school special. Nothing wrong with being passionate about something. The photos were taken with a $7 lense for an iphone or I pad that can be bought at Walmart. It works well for close ups.
Someone left you some nice coins. Do not try to clean any of them...yet, LOL. For now, buy some Goo Gone, pure grade acetone (beauty supply store or druggist) ,Q-tips, hair dryer, several gallons of distilled water, and some rubber gloves. That's most of what you will need after speaking to the conservator.
,
Soak the bust half in pure acetone. Beware of beauty supply stuff. Much of it has added moisturizers, scents, vitamin E, grape seed oil, etc. Buy it from a hardware store or online. "100% pure acetone".
Do not use rubber gloves. Acetone will melt them and you will contaminate the solution. Only use acetone with a metal or glass container. Use in a well ventilated area. Do not smoke (it's bad for you).
Allow the coin to soak until whatever is on it has been removed. A long dip won't hurt the coin. Repeat to get the last of the gunk off the coin. Then resoak one final time in more pure (untainted) acetone.
Rinse the coin thoroughly in tap water. Then a final rinse in distilled water. Allow the coin to air dry (a gentle patting with a soft cotton cloth is okay...do not rub).
If this doesn't remove all the gunk (glue, lacquer, whatever it is) come back here with new pix and we'll discuss other, stronger methods.
Lance.
@lkeigwin said: Soak the bust half in pure acetone. Beware of beauty supply stuff. Much of it has added moisturizers, scents, vitamin E, grape seed oil, etc. Buy it from a hardware store or online. "100% pure acetone".
Do not use rubber gloves. Acetone will melt them and you will contaminate the solution. Only use acetone with a metal or glass container. Use in a well ventilated area. Do not smoke (it's bad for you).
Allow the coin to soak until whatever is on it has been removed. A long dip won't hurt the coin. Repeat to get the last of the gunk off the coin. Then resoak one final time in more pure (untainted) acetone.
Rinse the coin thoroughly in tap water. Then a final rinse in distilled water. Allow the coin to air dry (a gentle patting with a soft cotton cloth is okay...do not rub).
If this doesn't remove all the gunk (glue, lacquer, whatever it is) come back here with new pix and we'll discuss other, stronger methods.
Lance.
This is a very nice outline. BTW, "Professional formula" 100% pure acetone is at the beauty supply stores. Don't forget to call the conservator also as I have watched them do things a little differently in the lab.
@CoinsAndMoreCoins said: "Line metal vessel with a napkin. The white ones have less sulfur than the stronger brown ones like McD's uses. Aluminum and silver get ugly fast with acetone in the mix, maybe with water too, I haven't tried it. Food grade stainless, not so much if at all."
Thanks for the tip. Question, do you think if I line the container with "Bounty" paper towels it would work as well? Then if I understand, you pour in the acetone and then put the coin in right?
One of my roll hunting friends uses your napkin trick only he wraps the coin in the napkin first an then drops the whole ball into a glass of pure acetone to soak for a few days until it is all evaporated. When he removes the coin from the napkin the coin looks good and the white napkin is dark as it has absorbed all the junk that came off the coin.
So NGc and pcgs offer a cleaning/ conservation service. Is this basically what they do? From reading their sites if they can clean/restore it it will then be graded. I Know this coin has issues as is. Is it possible to "restore it" to an acceptable gradable coin? If that is not an option the way it looks doesnt really bother me and I would hate to damage it. The cleaning of a coin seems to have a flurry of controversy from what I have read. I am certainly not opposed to it. I have 1646 gold ducat that I am sure has been cleaned at some point. I have been afraid to send it off in fear of it getting a genuin details grade.
NGC was first, then years later, PCGS, ANACS, and ICG followed. To the best of my knowledge ICG still does not charge a fee for their service. Your Capped Bust 50c is probably a good candidate; however, the substance on your coin will come off easily. If you let one of the services do the job, you'll have more chance to get a straight grade. The surface under the color does not look 100% original but without a better image I cannot determine if it will turn out to be "market acceptable."
If you are comfortable with no worries about money, send it in to be conserved and graded.
@CoinsAndMoreCoins said:
I dunno, I don't use any with ink and the small white napkins from chinese place often seem to be stained intense indigo blue after coins from circulation and acetone soaked in an aluminun vessel. I have no idea why but, the ones at Piggly WIggly meat and three line, the cheap store brand, work very well. They hold up fine in acetone, but water turns them to mush.
Probably a good idea to try unknown liner material with sacrificial coins, but I haven't seen any problems with the few coins that came off the blue stained napkins, maybe five years from now and I only tried them a couple times.
Just the same, I'd verify whatever I intended to use before having a first run with a valuable coin.
Learning the Guardhouse tubes stand up, at least for 72 hours no problem, to any chemical my coins touch; acetone, xylene, or toluene, greatly reduced the cost of soaking/sanitizing them. Just cut coin sized circles out of napkins to protect the surfaces, stack and pour.
Typically the cap will hold more than enough to submerse a whole tube full, so it makes handling and disposing of the used juice easy.
I probably wouldn't trust soaking them in acetone using the plastic tubes if unknown adhesive was a likely culprit, at least not for anything valuable.
I just tried your method using a large old linen napkin rather than paper. For this experiment I got a pyrex bowl and lined the inside of the container with the linen. Then I put aluminum foil all around the outside of the bowl and over the lip. Then I put the whole thing in the freezer. I kept checking until the linen was frozen stiff. Next I took the bowl outside for safety from the fumes and added a half gallon of acetone. Next I put the coin in and swished it around. You need to be careful because my fingers got a little white but soap and water and hand creme fixed them up when I was done. By using so much acetone, the haze came off the coin very quickly after all. I'll need to get one of those lenses for my phone camera so I can do another coin and post the results..
I found another trick by mistake. I put several plastic coin tubes into the left over acetone and let them dissolve. Then I dipped an XF/AU state quarter into the liquid. When I pulled out the coin, it looked like a gem BU! I think the plastic coated the coin's surface and hid all the marks and rub. I highly recommend this trick and plan to try it out on some Peace dollars I have. I don't know if the aluminum on the outside of the bowl helped the reaction but the bowl was very cold to hold. Next time I will wear white cotton gloves. Note: when you remove the coin, you must wave it around in the air until it gets dry and is no longer sticky!
Keep up the good work and please let me know more of your numismatic tips.
Comments
Thanks for confirming the variety!
Because at one point in time, loony tune dealers thought it was a great idea, to clean them.
Thanks for all of the info. It is appreciated. Glue! How unfortunate.
Why not just get to the point?
@Insider2 said: Thanks for confirming the variety!
@CoinsAndMoreCoins, a rookie to this forum has posted a disagreement to this statement. Two posters here have attributed the coin as O-111. Since @CoinAndMoreCoins must be an "Ex-pert" on this series, perhaps he should enlighten all of us about what he disagrees with about my attribution.
@CoinsAndMoreCoins Please provide the reason you do not think the OP's coin is O-111. Do you have the Overton reference book in your library?
Post's like the one above are childish and IMO, do not belong on Collectors Universe. There are several other Internet coin forums where this type of post is more fitting. You (and I) have chosen to join a group with some of the best minds in numismatics here. It might be best if you learned from them rather than cluttering the place up with nonsense.
Additionally, anyone with just a speck of experience examining the surface of coins closely would have no difficulty determining the yellow substance is dry and laying on the surface. Even the OP figured it out with a little coaching. Lacquer usually does not dry in this color or get stuck in the places and form (shape) that appear on this coin so glue is a pretty good guess.
Whatever it is, I have referred the OP to a conservation specialist to be walked-thru a process to improve his coin. I know what needs to be done but I am wary of posting the method as some ignorant dunce who did not recognize that the coin was not original, had no clue what the substance was, and who has probably never had an original numismatic thought might push the disagree button out of insecurity, personal jealousy, and frustration!
Best of luck to you
@CoinsAndMoreCoins
You made it do with the variety when you disagreed with my post: " Thanks for confirming the variety!
Since you disagreed with my post concerning O-111, what is it in your opinion? Still waiting.
Next, the color of an image DOES NOT produce "lakes" of color in the recesses of a design. It also does not produce "flaked-off" areas with an "undercut" laying on the surface of a coin.
I hope these observations will influence your opinion.
I should highly recommend that anyone on this thread take classes at the ANA Summer Seminars. When you reach a sufficient degree of proficiency, you'll be allowed to take the Advanced class dealing with problem coins. You may even have an excellent instructor in Basic Grading who will slip in some clues to detecting lacquer, glue, and tooling into the rookie class.
I am a novice with limited exposure to a wide variety of issues that can effect coins. I am a hobbiest that really enjoys collecting. I have never encountered glue on a silver coin before. I have seen it on a few fractional gold pieces and it was obvious, thick and could be peeled off. After searching images of glue on silver coins the color looks like glue. It does seem odd that it is all over both sides
Did you give the conservator a call?> @Insider2 said:
What part of my post below did you disagree with? Do you disagree with the Overton number? Do you disagree that I am still waiting? Do you disagree about detecting characteristics of glue? Do you disagree that the ANA's grading seminars being helpful? Or, have you embarrassed yourself and don't wish to be "called-out" for it.
Insider@ posted: "You made it do with the variety when you disagreed with my post: " Thanks for confirming the variety! Since you disagreed with my post concerning O-111, what is it in your opinion? Still waiting.
Next, the color of an image DOES NOT produce "lakes" of color in the recesses of a design. It also does not produce "flaked-off" areas with an "undercut" laying on the surface of a coin.
I hope these observations will influence your opinion.
I should highly recommend that anyone on this thread take classes at the ANA Summer Seminars. When you reach a sufficient degree of proficiency, you'll be allowed to take the Advanced class dealing with problem coins. You may even have an excellent instructor in Basic Grading who will slip in some clues to detecting lacquer, glue, and tooling into the rookie class.
Fortunately, none of this is personal to me - in fact, I enjoy and truly understand what is going on. There are many, many, trolls on the forums. Unfortunately, you are the first and only I have encountered on CU. Please keep showing the quality of your "numismatic knowledge."
I have not called and I don't disagree that it is glue. Your help is appreciated
@Face102030 said: "I have not called and I don't disagree that it is glue. Your help is appreciated."
Don't let the fuss between two fools (me and another) dull your enjoyment here. I recommend you call the fellow I recommended AND that you start a new thread: "How can I remove the yellow substance from my coin." If you do that, you will learn a lot more. Your images were PERFECT way past anything I could do.
Nice try! Unfortunately, the coin you have chosen is not silver and does not have the relief of the OP's coin. Anyway, I suggest you remove most of the glue when it dries and change the camera settings and focus so only some glue is left, the image is sharp, and all the unnatural glare is gone. Check out the excellent images the OP posted and you may get an idea how to produce a useful image. I couldn't tell there was any glue on your quarter if you had not said so.
@CoinsAndMoreCoins
I have posted over 700 times on Collectors Universe. I am astonished (but not surprised considering the "quality" of your posts) that you could only find 136 of them to push the disagree button on with no added comment.
Don't you realize that you are enhancing my reputation! I challenge you to find ALL of my posts and disagree with each of them. Hopefully you'll take the time to read them so you learn something from your "busy work" for the numismatically challenged. Too bad we don't have crayons for you here so you can disagree in color...LOL!
PS I'll still love you when you come out from under the bridge!
@CoinsAndMoreCoins
You still have over 500 of my posts to go! I'll bet you are a coin roll hunter! That's why you only had some "pocket change" around to put the glue on. I know because it takes one to know one!
Oh lord, its hard to be ...
I won't be discouraged. It is both informative and entertaining like a pbs after school special. Nothing wrong with being passionate about something. The photos were taken with a $7 lense for an iphone or I pad that can be bought at Walmart. It works well for close ups.
Here is an example of some that came from some of the cardboard type set holders
Someone left you some nice coins. Do not try to clean any of them...yet, LOL. For now, buy some Goo Gone, pure grade acetone (beauty supply store or druggist) ,Q-tips, hair dryer, several gallons of distilled water, and some rubber gloves. That's most of what you will need after speaking to the conservator.
,
yeah there are some really cool coins that I am lucky enough to have. Has def. reved up my coin interest.
Soak the bust half in pure acetone. Beware of beauty supply stuff. Much of it has added moisturizers, scents, vitamin E, grape seed oil, etc. Buy it from a hardware store or online. "100% pure acetone".
Do not use rubber gloves. Acetone will melt them and you will contaminate the solution. Only use acetone with a metal or glass container. Use in a well ventilated area. Do not smoke (it's bad for you).
Allow the coin to soak until whatever is on it has been removed. A long dip won't hurt the coin. Repeat to get the last of the gunk off the coin. Then resoak one final time in more pure (untainted) acetone.
Rinse the coin thoroughly in tap water. Then a final rinse in distilled water. Allow the coin to air dry (a gentle patting with a soft cotton cloth is okay...do not rub).
If this doesn't remove all the gunk (glue, lacquer, whatever it is) come back here with new pix and we'll discuss other, stronger methods.
Lance.
@lkeigwin said: Soak the bust half in pure acetone. Beware of beauty supply stuff. Much of it has added moisturizers, scents, vitamin E, grape seed oil, etc. Buy it from a hardware store or online. "100% pure acetone".
Do not use rubber gloves. Acetone will melt them and you will contaminate the solution. Only use acetone with a metal or glass container. Use in a well ventilated area. Do not smoke (it's bad for you).
Allow the coin to soak until whatever is on it has been removed. A long dip won't hurt the coin. Repeat to get the last of the gunk off the coin. Then resoak one final time in more pure (untainted) acetone.
Rinse the coin thoroughly in tap water. Then a final rinse in distilled water. Allow the coin to air dry (a gentle patting with a soft cotton cloth is okay...do not rub).
If this doesn't remove all the gunk (glue, lacquer, whatever it is) come back here with new pix and we'll discuss other, stronger methods.
Lance.
This is a very nice outline. BTW, "Professional formula" 100% pure acetone is at the beauty supply stores. Don't forget to call the conservator also as I have watched them do things a little differently in the lab.
Thanks for the tip. Question, do you think if I line the container with "Bounty" paper towels it would work as well? Then if I understand, you pour in the acetone and then put the coin in right?
One of my roll hunting friends uses your napkin trick only he wraps the coin in the napkin first an then drops the whole ball into a glass of pure acetone to soak for a few days until it is all evaporated. When he removes the coin from the napkin the coin looks good and the white napkin is dark as it has absorbed all the junk that came off the coin.
So NGc and pcgs offer a cleaning/ conservation service. Is this basically what they do? From reading their sites if they can clean/restore it it will then be graded. I Know this coin has issues as is. Is it possible to "restore it" to an acceptable gradable coin? If that is not an option the way it looks doesnt really bother me and I would hate to damage it. The cleaning of a coin seems to have a flurry of controversy from what I have read. I am certainly not opposed to it. I have 1646 gold ducat that I am sure has been cleaned at some point. I have been afraid to send it off in fear of it getting a genuin details grade.
NGC was first, then years later, PCGS, ANACS, and ICG followed. To the best of my knowledge ICG still does not charge a fee for their service. Your Capped Bust 50c is probably a good candidate; however, the substance on your coin will come off easily. If you let one of the services do the job, you'll have more chance to get a straight grade. The surface under the color does not look 100% original but without a better image I cannot determine if it will turn out to be "market acceptable."
If you are comfortable with no worries about money, send it in to be conserved and graded.
After shipping and everything it's only about $40ish I think. That doesn't seem unreasonable.
I just tried your method using a large old linen napkin rather than paper. For this experiment I got a pyrex bowl and lined the inside of the container with the linen. Then I put aluminum foil all around the outside of the bowl and over the lip. Then I put the whole thing in the freezer. I kept checking until the linen was frozen stiff. Next I took the bowl outside for safety from the fumes and added a half gallon of acetone. Next I put the coin in and swished it around. You need to be careful because my fingers got a little white but soap and water and hand creme fixed them up when I was done. By using so much acetone, the haze came off the coin very quickly after all. I'll need to get one of those lenses for my phone camera so I can do another coin and post the results..
I found another trick by mistake. I put several plastic coin tubes into the left over acetone and let them dissolve. Then I dipped an XF/AU state quarter into the liquid. When I pulled out the coin, it looked like a gem BU! I think the plastic coated the coin's surface and hid all the marks and rub. I highly recommend this trick and plan to try it out on some Peace dollars I have. I don't know if the aluminum on the outside of the bowl helped the reaction but the bowl was very cold to hold. Next time I will wear white cotton gloves. Note: when you remove the coin, you must wave it around in the air until it gets dry and is no longer sticky!
Keep up the good work and please let me know more of your numismatic tips.