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Three Cent Silvers for the Type Set

Here is a question for US type set builders. How many three cent silvers are required for the type set; one, two, or three?

The type 2 and type 3 are so similar that I think only a type 1 and a type 2 or 3, for a total of two coins, is necessary for the type set. Does anyone disagree and believe all three types are required for the type set?

I feel they are too similar to both deserve a spot in the type set. Prove me wrong with some photos comparing the differences between type 2 and type 3 three cent silvers.

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    BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My Dansco 7070 type set album has a space for one type of 3 cent silver. It also has one kind of reeded edge half dollar, and one kind of "with arrows" seated coin of each denomination.



    My Whitman type set album has spaces for the 3 sub-types of 3 cent silvers, as well as both kinds of reeded edge half dollars, and both kinds of "with arrows" seated coins (1853-55 and 1873-74) and some other sub-types that aren't in the Dansco, including all the early types.



    I'm going for a "complete" US type set and so include things like the "open wreath" gold dollar, the "no motto" 1907-08 eagle and double eagle, and other distinct sub-types that aren't included in either album



    But that's just me, people can put whatever they thing they "deserve" into their own type sets to achieve the level of completeness and comprehensiveness they feel is appropriate image

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

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    ScarsdaleCoinScarsdaleCoin Posts: 5,440 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Most folks buy 1 for a type set... most popular being the 1851-O



    If you want three one each of type 1, type 2, type 3

    I would recommend

    1851-O

    1855

    1873
    Jon Lerner - Scarsdale Coin - www.CoinHelp.com
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    oih82w8oih82w8 Posts: 13,107 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Three Cents - Silver



    Type 1, Small Star (1851-1853)



    Type 2, Large Star, Three Lines (1854-1858)



    Type 3, Large Star, Two Lines (1859-1873)



    "Three sub-types exist of the silver Three Cents. Type 1, issued from 1851 to 1853, shows the obverse star with a single outline. After 1853, the weight of the Three Cents coin was reduced. To indicate this change, two extra outlines were added to the star, resulting in the Type 2 version that lasted until 1858. In 1859, one of the extra outlines was dropped, creating the third and final sub-type, the Type 3 version. "



    http://www.pcgscoinfacts.com/Hierarchy.aspx?c=77



    I believe that the best strikes are with the Type 3, if you only want one.
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    LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,754 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: Baley

    My Dansco 7070 type set album has a space for one type of 3 cent silver. It also has one kind of reeded edge half dollar, and one kind of "with arrows" seated coin of each denomination.



    My Whitman type set album has spaces for the 3 sub-types of 3 cent silvers, as well as both kinds of reeded edge half dollars, and both kinds of "with arrows" seated coins (1853-55 and 1873-74) and some other sub-types that aren't in the Dansco, including all the early types.



    I'm going for a "complete" US type set and so include things like the "open wreath" gold dollar, the "no motto" 1907-08 eagle and double eagle, and other distinct sub-types that aren't included in either album



    But that's just me, people can put whatever they thing they "deserve" into their own type sets to achieve the level of completeness and comprehensiveness they feel is appropriate image




    I agree with Baley,



    the more complete the better. I wish a type album would actually separate all the various subtypes of lettered edge half dollars (I think there are 6) and also the third type of standing liberty quarter (recessed date).



    I'm sure there are other denominations that have these kind of oddities that should be included in a true type set.
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    BillJonesBillJones Posts: 35,842 ✭✭✭✭✭
    A full type set requires all three types. The Type II is interesting because there were strike issues with it that required a modification to the design. It is like the Type II gold dollar in that respect.


    As for the best dates to select, I'd go the least expensive/highest grade route. That would mean an 1851 or '52 for the Type I, 1858 for the Type II and any date from 1859 to '62 for the Type III. The 1851-O is an interesting coin, and I have one, but higher grade examples are very expensive. Some so-called "high grade" examples that have been offered to me were over graded and touted as among the finest known with 5 figure ($ 20,000 +) price tags on them.

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
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    Jackthecat1Jackthecat1 Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭
    I would agree that all three varieties are different enough to merit inclusion in a type set.
    Member ANS, ANA, GSNA, TNC



    image
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    TommyTypeTommyType Posts: 4,586 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Definitely all three. The type set registries also go with all three.



    The outlines to the star ARE pretty easy to spot. I'd say it is more identifiable than some other differences that may/may not be considered "required" for a type set, such as the Type 2 and 3 (or 2a and 2b) SLQ, or VDB/nonVDB Lincoln cents.



    But, as always, your opinion is all that matters to your set!





    (My beef is the NGC type set registry that "requires" both bicentennial 25c/50c/$1, AND silver bicentennial 25c/50c/$1. I refuse to waste the time an money for a simple metallic difference. image )
    Easily distracted Type Collector
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    BStrauss3BStrauss3 Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1853 type 1. The 1852s have a larger mintage but the dies were so overused many of them have major PIDT and get called bent. There are some weak struck from 1851 (initial runs?) but you can find very nice 51s.



    1856 or 1858 for type 2s - most common mintages. 57s are also available. 54s are hard and 55s harder.



    1861 for type 3. Most common, also lots were saved when coins were hoarded for the war.





    If you want to be pedantic, the 4th coin in the typeset would be the 1851O - only branch mint. But spend the time to find a decent strike (check the reverse, you will often see 51Os where the orbs and bar are completely blank and only the diamond is even partly filled with metal (these are the items inset in the C)



    -----Burton
    ANA 50+ year/Life Member (now "Emeritus")
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    Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 12,112 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It's up to you....this was good enough for my 7070, bought at AU Bid, probably AT, but I love the clashing:





    image



    image
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    GazesGazes Posts: 2,315 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: ScarsdaleCoin

    Most folks buy 1 for a type set... most popular being the 1851-O



    If you want three one each of type 1, type 2, type 3

    I would recommend

    1851-O

    1855

    1873




    Curious why you suggest the 1851-0 ? Thanks



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    291fifth291fifth Posts: 25,203 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Collectors have had it drummed into their heads for decades that there are three varieties of three cent silvers. In actual fact there are two major varieties: Type 1 plus Type 2/3 which contains the two line and three line sub-varieties. I would only select two coins for a type set, not three, unless you are going to get into sub-varieties, of which there are many in the US series. (Just think of how many there are in the 1830's alone.) Go your own way. Don't let album makers, TPGs or catalog publishers decide for you.
    All glory is fleeting.
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    ScarsdaleCoinScarsdaleCoin Posts: 5,440 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Just saying in my years of selling. I have sold more 1851-o for type. Folks like the branch mint history.
    Jon Lerner - Scarsdale Coin - www.CoinHelp.com
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    msch1manmsch1man Posts: 809 ✭✭✭✭
    There are so many little sub-types in each series, that I think you could easily have 200 coins or more in a type set depending on where you draw the line and what you define as a distinct "type". As others have stated though, it's your set and you make the rules...if you really like 3 cent silvers, include all 3, if you don't, just include 1, or if you don't like them at all, don't include any (again, you make the rules).



    I think starting with a list of all the different types and sub-types is a little daunting...I'd start with just getting 1 example to cover the type and come back to filling out all the sub-types later. For example, instead of focusing on getting a High Relief Saint, No Motto Saint, With Motto Saint, I'd just focus on getting a Saint (whether it's the High Relief, NM, or WM)...come back for the others later. I think it's more manageable that way. But, that's just how I look at it.



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    BillJonesBillJones Posts: 35,842 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have an 1852 in MS-66 in my type set that really nice. The biggest problem with Type I coins is ugly toning because of the 75% silver, 25 % copper alloy.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
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    TommyTypeTommyType Posts: 4,586 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: 291fifth
    Collectors have had it drummed into their heads for decades that there are three varieties of three cent silvers. In actual fact there are two major varieties: Type 1 plus Type 2/3 which contains the two line and three line sub-varieties. I would only select two coins for a type set, not three, unless you are going to get into sub-varieties, of which there are many in the US series. (Just think of how many there are in the 1830's alone.) Go your own way. Don't let album makers, TPGs or catalog publishers decide for you.


    Not saying you're wrong....but you're wrong. image

    If every reference says there are 3 types, (and Red Book has been saying it since at least 1963), then how can you say that we have had it _incorrectly_ drummed into our heads?

    If you disagree, that's fine. Saying it's "wrong" seems a bit extreme, and flies in the face of accepted convention.

    (That said, agree with your comment on not letting someone else define your set, and the multitude of "types" that could exist if you were a stickler for tracking changes. Of course, most of those are NOT defined as types by the standard references.)
    Easily distracted Type Collector

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