My new 1916 Barber half O/S pickup

coinsarefun · November 8, 2015 1:48PM

whatcha say

HalfStrike · November 8, 2015 3:34PM

Very nice! That looks like it is from die pair 1, with a die crack reverse.

lordmarcovan · November 8, 2015 4:16PM

Cool. I'm liking these Moonlight fantasies ever more these days.

PS- with you having "O/S" in the title, the first thing I looked at was the reverse of the coin, for an "O" mintmark repunched over an "S".

On a 1916 Barber half.

PPS- if DCarr responds to this thread, I'd be interested in hearing what he does to prepare the host coins prior to the overstrike. It would seem to me that your average low grade crusty Barber half would show some ghosting of the undertype after the new overstrike (due to the typical grey toning encountered on circs).

Are the host coins cleaned before they get overstruck? That thing looks incredibly bright and shiny, as if it were newly minted. (Which of course the overtype is.) But wouldn't a crusty grey undertype show through? Surely Mr. Carr isn't using blast-white BU Barber halves as host coins!

Or is the pressure of the coining press such that the metal flow obliterates any toning on the host?

dcarr · November 8, 2015 6:42PM

Originally posted by: lordmarcovan
Cool. I'm liking these Moonlight fantasies ever more these days.

PS- with you having "O/S" in the title, the first thing I looked at was the reverse of the coin, for an "O" mintmark repunched over an "S".

On a 1916 Barber half.

PPS- if DCarr responds to this thread, I'd be interested in hearing what he does to prepare the host coins prior to the overstrike. It would seem to me that your average low grade crusty Barber half would show some ghosting of the undertype after the new overstrike (due to the typical grey toning encountered on circs).

Are the host coins cleaned before they get overstruck? That thing looks incredibly bright and shiny, as if it were newly minted. (Which of course the overtype is.) But wouldn't a crusty grey undertype show through? Surely Mr. Carr isn't using blast-white BU Barber halves as host coins!

Or is the pressure of the coining press such that the metal flow obliterates any toning on the host?

Any grade will work from AG to UNC, so long as there are no significant gouges. But, of course, I use mostly G-VG coins that have smooth wear. The outlines from the original under-type relief are usually visible after the over-striking. Tarnish can not be struck away, however. So the host coins are extensively cleaned and burnished as the first step. I then employ a special flattening technique prior to the final over-strike. No metal is added or removed and there is no heating or melting.

winky · November 8, 2015 10:14PM

I LIKE that.

7Jaguars · November 8, 2015 10:25PM

Nice specimen there! IMO, he has knocked this one out of the park. Personally, I prefer these to the original designs of the alternate coins. Still, my favorite are the 1964 Peace dollar in matte and the 1927 matte Oregon Trail.

lordmarcovan · November 8, 2015 10:49PM

Yes, I agree, that is a very nice piece of work. It looks like the real McCoy (at least if the real McCoy existed with that date).

COPY stamps aside, many of the other "replica" type coins (Chain cents, etc) out there look just a little bit "off" to me. Even leaving aside the fact that the copper on those early cent replicas is full red and lustrous in a way that you'll never see on a 1790s cent now, there's still something about the engraving or lettering or something that usually doesn't look quite right.

This piece looks spot-on to me and I personally might have mistaken it for a gem MS Barber half at a casual glance, if I hadn't seen the date.

ricko · November 8, 2015 11:07PM

Very nice Stef... and great work Dan... Cheers, RickO

ricko · November 8, 2015 11:07PM

Strange double post...Cheers, RickO

oih82w8 · November 8, 2015 11:14PM

PS- with you having "O/S" in the title, the first thing I looked at was the reverse of the coin, for an "O" mintmark repunched over an "S".

That is what I thought when I saw the title...another OMM (Over MintMark) variety! The date did not click either.

Cool "coin" nevertheless.

I am looking for a 1964-D Peace Dollar D.Carr production

silverpop · November 8, 2015 11:38PM

carr you have talent no doubt and coins are your comfort zone but it seems you are stuck

in a rut cause of your comfort zone, step out of your comfort zone and do something unusual

fresh and interesting

it's a good thing to mix things up a bit ,make a stir and such

ambro51 · November 9, 2015 12:25AM

I think he should make SIX 1914 Liberty Nickels

Hydrant · November 9, 2015 12:40AM

I guess Michelangelo was in a rut also. Always painting and chipping away at rocks. Same old thing all the time. What a waste of talent when he could have done something really special. Silk-screening maybe. So sad.

dcarr · November 9, 2015 4:36AM

Originally posted by: ambro51
I think he should make SIX 1914 Liberty Nickels

Actually, I made FOUR (of the large-date version, not released).

The small-date version had a total production of 210.

“1914” Liberty Head “V” Nickel – Production Blog

dcarr · November 9, 2015 4:51AM

Originally posted by: silverpop
carr you have talent no doubt and coins are your comfort zone but it seems you are stuck

in a rut cause of your comfort zone, step out of your comfort zone and do something unusual

fresh and interesting

it's a good thing to mix things up a bit ,make a stir and such

Here are a few other things I've made since doing the "1916" Barber Half Dollar over-strikes:

silverpop · November 9, 2015 6:26AM

forgot my barber dime

jerseycat101 · November 9, 2015 6:32AM

Is that toning from the original host coin, or did it tone afterwards? It'd even be great to know that if it toned after being restruck, did it tone inside or outside the slab.

coinsarefun · November 9, 2015 6:49AM

Originally posted by: jerseycat101
Is that toning from the original host coin, or did it tone afterwards? It'd even be great to know that if it toned after being restruck, did it tone inside or outside the slab.

In my opinion it toned in the slab.

lordmarcovan · November 9, 2015 8:42AM

DCarr- Made any "1815" large cents?

I need to peruse your website again.

FWIW, I do think ANACS should have put the "1916" date in quotation marks on that slab in the OP.

dcarr · November 9, 2015 9:04AM

PS:
Nice pickup on the "1916" Barber over-strike. I didn't realize that Great Collections has sold several of my pieces. It certainly toned AFTER the over-striking. All it takes is a miniscule amount of trace compounds left on the surface. Whether or not it toned while inside the holder is unknown to me. It could have started before being slabbed.

That example is the latest die state for Die Pair 1. The last crack that formed was the one that extends from the center to the rim near the "C" of AMERICA.

dcarr · November 9, 2015 9:07AM

Originally posted by: lordmarcovan
DCarr- Made any "1815" large cents?

Not yet

Originally posted by: lordmarcovan
I need to peruse your website again.

FWIW, I do think ANACS should have put the "1916" date in quotation marks on that slab in the OP.

I always use quotation marks around the fantasy date on all documents that I write. I'll mention it to ANACS.

My new 1916 Barber half O/S pickup

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