Options
So I was doing some coin doctoring today....
Used some MS70 on a gold coin that had some haze on it. the lighting techniques are different but you can see the difference.
I hope I didn't offend anyone by doctoring some bullion. I like it better.
I hope I didn't offend anyone by doctoring some bullion. I like it better.
0
Comments
Beautiful coin!
It looks nice!
And normally actable on proof coins.
<< <i>I had a feeling about you, Doctor!!
Curses to all of you for not putting the phd at the end of my name! lol
https://acoinshop.com/ —-> https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
I think Coinsolv would be a better first step as it is essentially inert. And more effective than acetone in many instances.
Not only do they all have their uses, there's a hierarchy of non-invasiveness of solvents relating to deposits and the way they cling to surfaces. I've got to get me some Xylene and play, and I'll miss tri-chloro-tri-fluoro-ethane (Dissolve) to the end of my days.
I only work on pre-1933 gold, and have conserved millions of bucks of it over the years. Use of MS70 on proof coins of that era usually ruins them as far as many traditionalists would be concerned. Ask RYK for a definition of "crusty". True for any US Gold 1933-earlier.
Pruebas et al. "Removing haze on a gold coin is a good thing" ?????
Try "Some gold coins with haze look better when it's removed, and this sure was one of them !"
Different conservation "rules" for different years and dates and types and metals. Solvents, emulsifiers, acids, bases, dilution, duration, vibration.... Damn!
edited to add: But for a lot of coins they're fairly simple, and the techniques/processes/chemicals are transferable from one sort of coin to another, even across metals.
Now just get some accounts. Hang out a shingle.
Next week start looking at BMW's.