Auction Strategy

Let's say three coins are set to be auctioned in the same event. The three coins are virtually identical 1933 Saints. For the purpose of this question consider them equal in all regards. The three coins are sold back to back to back. You plan on purchasing one and want to get the best price. There are 20+ qualified bidders that are serious about purchasing one of the coins.
Which coin is it smart to buy?
I ask because I just had this situation happen with another collectible. My thought is that you get the best price on the first one.
Which coin is it smart to buy?
I ask because I just had this situation happen with another collectible. My thought is that you get the best price on the first one.
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A clear example of this happens every year at my coin club. We do a brown bag auction of 15 coins. 15 different coins sealed in brown paper bags. Some bags have coins worth around $20-$25 (an ounce of silver) and some bags have small gold in them worth over $100. Before the bags are opened they are effectively all exactly the same as they all have the same expected value. We auction them off one at a time and no one opens any until all are sold. In the past few years, the first one sold is always the cheapest and the last couple bags always go for much more as those who haven't won any yet compete against one another to get one.
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
I have seen similar scenarios where the first coin was the cheapest, and others in which the first coin was the most expensive by a lot.
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Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
I'm sure you'll have a limit set therefore you won't get caught overpaying regardless.
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
Really depends on the bidders - who lost out or won on the first.
This past Saturday, I wanted 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, & 10 oz poured silver sell for - $33 per oz, 33 per oz, 35 per oz, 33 per oz, 32.50 per oz, and 24 per oz for the 10 oz.
So...........
In my opinion, regardless of what is being auctioned, set the highest amount you are willing to pay....and stick to it. Period. DON'T get caught up in the hype. Don't "talk yourself into" the item....."well, it is only a few dollars more"....or only 3% more. Do your research. Know how much and where you can buy the exact same item at the time the last bid is hammered.
Personally, I stay in the bidding on all of the lots and stop at or one over my set max bid. Let the other buyers pay the big money. Can you guess which silver I bought in the example above?? In that instance, people were paying 33, 66, 105, 132, 162.50, and 240. They were not doing the math very well, with silver at $20 per oz. Yes, there is a slight premium for poured silver....but NOT $13 to $15 PER OUNCE!!!
Also of note, I had a list of 60 coins out of the 450 lots listed at the auction. I knew what grade the raw coins were and what I was willing to pay for them. I definitely had a list of 3 KEY coins that I WOULD buy, again, at my limit...or a touch over (these were for a couple collections I am working on personally). Of note, these were key or semi key date coins - 1877 IHC in G, 1908 S IHC in VF/XF, & 1909 S IHC in a solid XF. I ran them all up to my max, and gracefully bowed out. On the 1909 S IHC, with $100 of my max bid, I told the dealer that was the other primary bidder, that his vehicle was being towed.
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<< <i>There is probably a "game theory" solution to the problem. Any Nash-inspired economists around? >>
This reminds me of the calculus of marriage. An average person has seven opportunities. What is the best strategy? IIRC the math says always pass on the first two then take the first one that is better or equal than the first two.
I always thought it was dumb to reduce such a problem to calculus, but you know those nerdy mathematicians. For themselves personally the exercise was entirely theoretical to begin with.
Buy the middle coin.
They will be compared to death and auction houses tend to put the slightly nicer coin first (especially in Ancients, probably not quite as much in US). The first coin sets the base price, knowing what someone will pay for it. The top bidder will probably not want two identical coins and the underbidder wasn't willing to go higher on the first coin, so they will probably get the second for a cut bid or a full bid under the first coin's price. The last coin is the final opportunity to get one during this auction which could be the last time you'll have an opportunity for several months and you begin to justify it to yourself that it's worth the higher bid. Often you'll have people waiting in the wings, seeing that two coins just sold, knowing there is another underbidder out there, and they'll bid over, having a better understanding of what the market price is now that the first two have sold, leading to more confidence for someone else to jump in and fight a bit over the last example.
However, my take is: if there are three identical coins in an auction, skip all of them unless there really are only three known.
<< <i>I ask because I just had this situation happen with another collectible >>
How did your situation turn out?
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
In my situation each sold for a progressively higher price.
<< <i>In my situation each sold for a progressively higher price. >>
Told ya.
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
I enjoy auctions and strategy is important- perhaps the bidding strategy is something we all do not contemplate often enough
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
<< <i>So if in general the first goes the cheapest, how do you deal with that as a consignor? "If any other coins of the same date, mint and grade are in the same auction, I request my coin be auctioned last in that group" ? >>
I know of situations where consigners have made demands that no other of the same coin could be in the same auction so that there is no comparison made and his gets the sole attention. Granted these were some "big coins" anyway...
<< <i>So if in general the first goes the cheapest, how do you deal with that as a consignor? >>
I reject the notion that "in general the first goes the cheapest". So I wouldn't deal with it at all.
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I believe only a few bidders will aggressively pursue the first coin all the while knowing they have two more chances after the hammer falls. As a result, I'd go all out after the first one. The remaining bidders will sit back wanting to see where pricing goes on the first coin before deciding what to bid on the remaining two pieces. After the first piece sells, the remaining 19 bidders will bid more aggressively and will find themselves in a dog fight.
This was the Ford sale of French Colonial gold coins from the Le Chameau shipwreck. There were roughly 100 specimens, a variety of dates and mints, many duplicates and a mix of quality.
Here is a page showing the very first lot selling for a price that was identifiable as bizarrely high as soon as the next few sold.
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<< <i>Here is a page showing the very first lot selling for a price that was identifiable as bizarrely high as soon as the next few sold. >>
The first coin appears to have been minted with a different die set. Could this be the reason for the high price?
<< <i>In my experience I've learned that the first, almost, always goes the cheapest.
I'm sure you'll have a limit set therefore you won't get caught overpaying regardless. >>
<< <i>
<< <i>Here is a page showing the very first lot selling for a price that was identifiable as bizarrely high as soon as the next few sold. >>
The first coin appears to have been minted with a different die set. Could this be the reason for the high price? >>
I strongly doubt it - these seemed to be selling as type coins as evidenced by the fact that many described by the cataloger as rare dates and mints did not bring any appreciable premium.
My best guess is two bidders had no idea what these were going to bring and chased this first one up. After it sold, there was no support at that level until some significantly nicer ones sold later in the auction.
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Lafayette Grading Set
No Way Out: Stimulus and Money Printing Are the Only Path Left
Sometimes the first is the most expensive especially if there are only a small number of bidders for a relatively uncommon item.:
17903
17902
Eric
<< <i>This happens with currency not infrequently.
Sometimes the first is the most expensive especially if there are only a small number of bidders for a relatively uncommon item.:
17903
17902 >>
Yep. You just never know.
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In short: The ONE you want is the only one you should plan to get at whatever the cost. That would be my only strategy. Nuclear bid the SOB …. 3 times, if necessary.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
<< <i>There is probably a "game theory" solution to the problem. Any Nash-inspired economists around? >>
Sorry, but Von Neumann told me to stay away from random walks and anything else requiring the use of discontinuous equations.
<< <i>I always thought it was dumb to reduce such a problem to calculus, but you know those nerdy mathematicians. For themselves personally the exercise was entirely theoretical to begin with. >>
Don't be so sure about that, sport. In my experience, the hot chicks date the jocks but marry the nerds.
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