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Auction Strategy

nagsnags Posts: 822 ✭✭✭✭
Let's say three coins are set to be auctioned in the same event. The three coins are virtually identical 1933 Saints. For the purpose of this question consider them equal in all regards. The three coins are sold back to back to back. You plan on purchasing one and want to get the best price. There are 20+ qualified bidders that are serious about purchasing one of the coins.

Which coin is it smart to buy?

I ask because I just had this situation happen with another collectible. My thought is that you get the best price on the first one.

Comments

  • MGLICKERMGLICKER Posts: 7,995 ✭✭✭
    Buy the one that TDN doesn't like. image
  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,467 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In my experience, the first one is usually the one that ends up the lowest priced. Many bidders will be unwilling to pay up for the first one knowing they have a few more chances for the next ones that are substantially similar. But that first sale also sort of establishes the floor as the first winner was willing to pay that much or more, and the underbidder was right there with them.

    A clear example of this happens every year at my coin club. We do a brown bag auction of 15 coins. 15 different coins sealed in brown paper bags. Some bags have coins worth around $20-$25 (an ounce of silver) and some bags have small gold in them worth over $100. Before the bags are opened they are effectively all exactly the same as they all have the same expected value. We auction them off one at a time and no one opens any until all are sold. In the past few years, the first one sold is always the cheapest and the last couple bags always go for much more as those who haven't won any yet compete against one another to get one.
  • CoinRaritiesOnlineCoinRaritiesOnline Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭✭
    No way to know.

    I have seen similar scenarios where the first coin was the cheapest, and others in which the first coin was the most expensive by a lot.
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is probably a "game theory" solution to the problem. Any Nash-inspired economists around?
  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,467 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Another factor to consider is whether the first buyer can afford to buy all of the examples in the sale and is willing to do so. If that is the case, and that buyer wins the first one at X, you can probably expect them to bid at least X (if not more depending on what their real max bid is) on all of the remaining lots too. So unless that first buyer is also the winner of the later lots, expect the later lots to sell for more than the first.
  • sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In my experience I've learned that the first, almost, always goes the cheapest.

    I'm sure you'll have a limit set therefore you won't get caught overpaying regardless.

    "If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

    My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

  • aclocoacloco Posts: 952 ✭✭✭
    It has been my experience, that the auction can go either way. 1st can be most....or 2nd...or 3rd.

    Really depends on the bidders - who lost out or won on the first.

    This past Saturday, I wanted 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, & 10 oz poured silver sell for - $33 per oz, 33 per oz, 35 per oz, 33 per oz, 32.50 per oz, and 24 per oz for the 10 oz.

    So...........

    In my opinion, regardless of what is being auctioned, set the highest amount you are willing to pay....and stick to it. Period. DON'T get caught up in the hype. Don't "talk yourself into" the item....."well, it is only a few dollars more"....or only 3% more. Do your research. Know how much and where you can buy the exact same item at the time the last bid is hammered.


    Personally, I stay in the bidding on all of the lots and stop at or one over my set max bid. Let the other buyers pay the big money. Can you guess which silver I bought in the example above?? In that instance, people were paying 33, 66, 105, 132, 162.50, and 240. They were not doing the math very well, with silver at $20 per oz. Yes, there is a slight premium for poured silver....but NOT $13 to $15 PER OUNCE!!!

    Also of note, I had a list of 60 coins out of the 450 lots listed at the auction. I knew what grade the raw coins were and what I was willing to pay for them. I definitely had a list of 3 KEY coins that I WOULD buy, again, at my limit...or a touch over (these were for a couple collections I am working on personally). Of note, these were key or semi key date coins - 1877 IHC in G, 1908 S IHC in VF/XF, & 1909 S IHC in a solid XF. I ran them all up to my max, and gracefully bowed out. On the 1909 S IHC, with $100 of my max bid, I told the dealer that was the other primary bidder, that his vehicle was being towed. image The entire room had a great chuckle. We talked quite a bit afterwards...he got a great coin at a fair price....and his vehicle did not get towed. image
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  • WTCGWTCG Posts: 8,940 ✭✭✭
    There is no way to know but experience has taught me the last lot is usually never the cheapest.
    Follow me on Twitter @wtcgroup
    Authorized dealer for PCGS, PCGS Currency, NGC, NCS, PMG, CAC. Member of the PNG, ANA. Member dealer of CoinPlex and CCE/FACTS as "CH5"
  • CoinosaurusCoinosaurus Posts: 9,645 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>There is probably a "game theory" solution to the problem. Any Nash-inspired economists around? >>



    This reminds me of the calculus of marriage. An average person has seven opportunities. What is the best strategy? IIRC the math says always pass on the first two then take the first one that is better or equal than the first two.

    I always thought it was dumb to reduce such a problem to calculus, but you know those nerdy mathematicians. For themselves personally the exercise was entirely theoretical to begin with.

  • SmEagle1795SmEagle1795 Posts: 2,199 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I've run into this four times recently and it applies not only to one auction but also to sequentially timed auctions with a nearly identical coin in them.

    Buy the middle coin.

    They will be compared to death and auction houses tend to put the slightly nicer coin first (especially in Ancients, probably not quite as much in US). The first coin sets the base price, knowing what someone will pay for it. The top bidder will probably not want two identical coins and the underbidder wasn't willing to go higher on the first coin, so they will probably get the second for a cut bid or a full bid under the first coin's price. The last coin is the final opportunity to get one during this auction which could be the last time you'll have an opportunity for several months and you begin to justify it to yourself that it's worth the higher bid. Often you'll have people waiting in the wings, seeing that two coins just sold, knowing there is another underbidder out there, and they'll bid over, having a better understanding of what the market price is now that the first two have sold, leading to more confidence for someone else to jump in and fight a bit over the last example.

    However, my take is: if there are three identical coins in an auction, skip all of them unless there really are only three known.
    Learn about our world's shared history told through the first millennium of coinage: Colosseo Collection
  • roadrunnerroadrunner Posts: 28,313 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The 3 coins can never be "virtually" identical in quality, even if graded the same. One might have spots, one might have hits, one might have rub. Maybe only 1 is CACable and could plus on resubmit. If it's the first coin, it could easily bring the most money as quality oriented buyers will want the best coin available. And if there are reserves set, who even knows if 1, 2, or all 3 actually sell? While Saints are probably some of the simplest coins to grade where most have a uniform look, there are still enough differences that even 63's will have major differences. The same discussion could be about 3 MS63 1794 dollars. No way they would be the "same."
    Barbarous Relic No More, LSCC -GoldSeek--shadow stats--SafeHaven--321gold
  • sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,048 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I ask because I just had this situation happen with another collectible >>


    How did your situation turn out? image

    "If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

    My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

  • nagsnags Posts: 822 ✭✭✭✭
    interesting replies. I like the calculus thought, that actually makes a lot of logical sense.

    In my situation each sold for a progressively higher price.
  • sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,048 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>In my situation each sold for a progressively higher price. >>


    Told ya. image Happens to me too. 90% I'd guess.

    "If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

    My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
    So if in general the first goes the cheapest, how do you deal with that as a consignor? "If any other coins of the same date, mint and grade are in the same auction, I request my coin be auctioned last in that group" ?

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • This content has been removed.
  • It all depends on who is bidding.image
  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,850 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Auction strategy has really not surfaced as a topic too often here- It is worthy of discussion. I really don't know which will bring the most $. Perception, pictures or who is in the room are critical factors depending on the auction venue/format.

    I enjoy auctions and strategy is important- perhaps the bidding strategy is something we all do not contemplate often enough

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The psychology of auctions is very strange, and much more influential than any applied mathematics. I have watched/participated in many, many auctions of different products (coins, firearms, furniture etc.) and I find the human element to be most influential. So much depends on the crowd makeup at an auction. Cheers, RickO
  • joebb21joebb21 Posts: 4,772 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>So if in general the first goes the cheapest, how do you deal with that as a consignor? "If any other coins of the same date, mint and grade are in the same auction, I request my coin be auctioned last in that group" ? >>



    I know of situations where consigners have made demands that no other of the same coin could be in the same auction so that there is no comparison made and his gets the sole attention. Granted these were some "big coins" anyway...
    may the fonz be with you...always...
  • CoinRaritiesOnlineCoinRaritiesOnline Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>So if in general the first goes the cheapest, how do you deal with that as a consignor? >>



    I reject the notion that "in general the first goes the cheapest". So I wouldn't deal with it at all.
  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,785 ✭✭✭✭
    I think a key point here is that there are so many bidders (20+).

    I believe only a few bidders will aggressively pursue the first coin all the while knowing they have two more chances after the hammer falls. As a result, I'd go all out after the first one. The remaining bidders will sit back wanting to see where pricing goes on the first coin before deciding what to bid on the remaining two pieces. After the first piece sells, the remaining 19 bidders will bid more aggressively and will find themselves in a dog fight.

    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • CoinRaritiesOnlineCoinRaritiesOnline Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭✭
    Here is a concrete example I sat through some years back. Admittedly this is a different scenario than the OP's, but illustrative nonetheless.

    This was the Ford sale of French Colonial gold coins from the Le Chameau shipwreck. There were roughly 100 specimens, a variety of dates and mints, many duplicates and a mix of quality.

    Here is a page showing the very first lot selling for a price that was identifiable as bizarrely high as soon as the next few sold.
  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,785 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Here is a page showing the very first lot selling for a price that was identifiable as bizarrely high as soon as the next few sold. >>



    The first coin appears to have been minted with a different die set. Could this be the reason for the high price?

    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • rec78rec78 Posts: 5,871 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>In my experience I've learned that the first, almost, always goes the cheapest.

    I'm sure you'll have a limit set therefore you won't get caught overpaying regardless. >>

    image

    image
  • CoinRaritiesOnlineCoinRaritiesOnline Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Here is a page showing the very first lot selling for a price that was identifiable as bizarrely high as soon as the next few sold. >>



    The first coin appears to have been minted with a different die set. Could this be the reason for the high price? >>



    I strongly doubt it - these seemed to be selling as type coins as evidenced by the fact that many described by the cataloger as rare dates and mints did not bring any appreciable premium.

    My best guess is two bidders had no idea what these were going to bring and chased this first one up. After it sold, there was no support at that level until some significantly nicer ones sold later in the auction.
  • pocketpiececommemspocketpiececommems Posts: 6,052 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Are the three going to be auctioned off as "choice" or one at a time. I've seen many auctions of choice where the winner took all three. I've seen a choice vehicle auction of 8 where the winner took 7 and the last one then brought more per than the seven.
  • derrybderryb Posts: 37,676 ✭✭✭✭✭
    buy all three, corner the market.

    No Way Out: Stimulus and Money Printing Are the Only Path Left

  • berylberyl Posts: 131 ✭✭✭
    This happens with currency not infrequently.
    Sometimes the first is the most expensive especially if there are only a small number of bidders for a relatively uncommon item.:
    17903

    17902
  • If there were three candid XXXXXXXXXXX of XXXXXXX XXXXXXA XX XXX XXXX XX XXXXXXXXX ending at about the same time, which there certainly are for me, I bid my absolute maximum on all three. They are not equal despite appearances, and I can use each differently. Maybe resell one. If I win them all I wanted them all, and I can always sell something if need be in the short run. One could be a book cover and one an interior detail.

    Eric
  • CoinRaritiesOnlineCoinRaritiesOnline Posts: 3,681 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>This happens with currency not infrequently.
    Sometimes the first is the most expensive especially if there are only a small number of bidders for a relatively uncommon item.:
    17903

    17902 >>



    Yep. You just never know.
  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 44,621 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My plans more often fail. So be certain, and put your best shot out there. If it's not good enough, at least you did not fail to plan….
    In short: The ONE you want is the only one you should plan to get at whatever the cost. That would be my only strategy. Nuclear bid the SOB …. 3 times, if necessary.
  • ColonelJessupColonelJessup Posts: 6,442 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>There is probably a "game theory" solution to the problem. Any Nash-inspired economists around? >>



    Sorry, but Von Neumann told me to stay away from random walks and anything else requiring the use of discontinuous equations. image
    "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." - Geo. Orwell
  • droopyddroopyd Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I always thought it was dumb to reduce such a problem to calculus, but you know those nerdy mathematicians. For themselves personally the exercise was entirely theoretical to begin with. >>



    Don't be so sure about that, sport. In my experience, the hot chicks date the jocks but marry the nerds.
    Me at the Springfield coin show:
    image
    60 years into this hobby and I'm still working on my Lincoln set!
  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,751 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Bid hardest on the one you like the MOST whether it be first or last. If it's first and you lose then maybe you can get a good deal on the second or third coin. There will ALWAYS be one that is the favorite (no matter how small the difference in quality) regardless of the same grades.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

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