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Is Greysheet still a player in the game?
OldEastside
Posts: 4,602 ✭✭✭✭✭
Just wondering.
Steve
Steve
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OldEastside
Posts: 4,602 ✭✭✭✭✭
OldEastside
Posts: 4,602 ✭✭✭✭✭
OldEastside
Posts: 4,602 ✭✭✭✭✭
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Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
i use it all the time to buy and sell, even if i am high or low for the numbers listed. there are plenty of uses besides the obvious
.
I think that it is among B&M shops and at shows BUT when it comes to eBay and web site
auctions you can start a fire in your fireplace with it. Again most dealer web sites tend to stay
close to it as I have seen on many.
I can understand sellers on the bay asking higher than GS for coins because of all the fees and
postage they have to pay. The thing that bugs me the most on there is a guys will ask $1765.
for a coin that GS ask is $660.
So MO is that yes the GS is still a player.
<< <i>I can understand sellers on the bay asking higher than GS for coins because of all the fees and and
postage they have to pay. The thing that bugs me the most on there is a guys will ask $1765.
for a coin that GS ask is $660.
>>
I don’t know how honest dealers can make it on eBay any more with their high fees and rules that force you to use services like Paypal. I used to sell a few Civil War tokens on eBay because there is no Gray Sheet for them, and I could cover my expenses and still make a decent return despite the extra work of packaging and mailing. I don’t know that I could do that today although a few guys are doing it. I also used to sell coins when I was sick of looking at them. I’ve seen other dealers do that also. If you couldn’t sell a coin at the shows, throw it up on eBay.
As for Gray Sheet prices, I use them as a guide. The “widgets” the Gray Sheet prices can range from “right on” to a bit too high. For better stuff you can expect to pay more, but … if a guy wants three times or more the Gray Sheet price, it had better be something like 1802 half dime or something popular that you see once in a blue moon. Otherwise I’d say that guy is usually “blowing smoke.”
<< <i>As for Gray Sheet prices, I use them as a guide. The “widgets” the Gray Sheet prices can range from “right on” to a bit too high. For better stuff you can expect to pay more, but … if a guy wants three times or more the Gray Sheet price, it had better be something like 1802 half dime or something popular that you see once in a blue moon. Otherwise I’d say that guy is usually “blowing smoke.” >>
OK. The Greysheet bid on an 1853 No Arrows quarter is $210. Bid on an 1873-CC dime in Good is $1,000. Bid on an 1822 dime in Good is $385. Bid on an 1851 half in Good is $220. Bid on an 1851 Seated dollar Original in VG is $3,250.
If you have any decent examples of these coins for sale at three times Greysheet bid, I would be happy to buy them!
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
<< <i>OK. The Greysheet bid on an 1853 No Arrows quarter is $210. Bid on an 1873-CC dime in Good is $1,000. Bid on an 1822 dime in Good is $385. Bid on an 1851 half in Good is $220. Bid on an 1851 Seated dollar Original in VG is $3,250. >>
Frankly I don't blame the dealers who might be responsible for these low Gray Sheet bids on these rare dates for making low ball generic offers. Most coins that end up graded "Good" or sometimes even "VG" look like hell. You have to cover your butt on some of this stuff, because you can end up with your butt in sling if you pay too much for an ugly coin.
For MS66 generic Morgans it's a more worthwhile guide to depend upon.
<< <i>
<< <i>OK. The Greysheet bid on an 1853 No Arrows quarter is $210. Bid on an 1873-CC dime in Good is $1,000. Bid on an 1822 dime in Good is $385. Bid on an 1851 half in Good is $220. Bid on an 1851 Seated dollar Original in VG is $3,250. >>
Frankly I don't blame the dealers who might be responsible for these low Gray Sheet bids on these rare dates for making low ball generic offers. Most coins that end up graded "Good" or sometimes even "VG" look like hell. You have to cover your butt on some of this stuff, because you can end up with your butt in sling if you pay too much for an ugly coin. >>
That argument would make sense if you were talking about the Bluesheet which is for sight-unseen coins. That's why the Bluesheet prices are way lower than Greysheet in most cases. But the Greysheet prices are prices for sight-seen transactions where the buyer would be able to grade the coin themselves and look up the corresponding price.
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
<< <i>Is Greysheet still a player in the game? >>
I'd say when it benefits one party or the other, yes.
<< <i>I don’t know how honest dealers can make it on eBay any more with their high fees and rules that force you to use services like Paypal. >>
Figure out your costs + what you hope to make on a sale and buy at a level that allows for that to happen. I don't see anything dishonest there.
“I may not believe in myself but I believe in what I’m doing” ~Jimmy Page~
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
<< <i>A few years ago I had a bid on a early CC dime in a Stacks auction. As I walked in the door I saw Dave Wnuck and asked him what bid was in XF. His remark was that CDN was going to be pretty ujseless on this coin. My response was along the lines of "Well, I have to have something to multiply by 3". For primo circ type thrown the CDN away. Likewise for early copper. All the collectors know what the market is. They don't need no stinkin' Greysheet.
For MS66 generic Morgans it's a more worthwhile guide to depend upon.
Actually the Greysheet runs high on these (at least it did when I last glanced at a Greysheet a few months ago). You could buy coins through retail venues for below bid. Bid was around $320 and the coins were selling in the 260-$280 range.