<< <i>I've frequently said "Buy the highest grade that makes sense." Or, in other words "Buy the highest grade before the big jump in price in the next higher grade." For example, if a coin is worth $500 in MS63 and then jumps to $5000 in MS64, look for a nice high end MS63 to get the most bang for the buck. >>
I prefer the following:
Buy the highest grade where you can appreciate the difference in quality vs the extra money you spend
Reminds me of the thread regarding Q.D.Bowers' book and "OCD" value.
I like the one about drawing the line at the grade where you can no longer tell the difference. Unfortunately for me, I have a young discriminating eye and a very powerful glass
You Suck! Awarded 6/2008- 1901-O Micro O Morgan, 8/2008- 1878 VAM-123 Morgan, 9/2022 1888-O VAM-1B3 H8 Morgan | Senior Regional Representative- ANACS Coin Grading. Posted opinions on coins are my own, and are not an official ANACS opinion.
My sig line is a take on what many others have said. A dealer that we frequented in my childhood used to call everyone "Bud." He always admonished us to buy scarce, good quality coins because: "Bud, you can buy junk any time."
<< <i>"There's no Santa Claus in numismatics"--Abe Kosoff, I believe. >>
There are many dealers and sharp collectors that live off the oppositie of that truism. They consistently "find" those Santa Claus deals. Call them top 1% ers. Based on the deals I've seen walk into my LCS, they count on Santa visiting at least several times each year.
While buying in the grade just below a major jump in price makes sense, it's actually the "safest" bet, not necessarily the best bet. With REG set fever run amock the past 10 yrs, it's often been the grade where the price jump occurred (or higher) where the strongest gains were realized. The strongest buyers always seem to want the best coin, not the "safest" value.
i believe there is a HUGE difference in dealers/collectors that recognize an opportunity, and the dealers/collectors hoping for a visit from ol' saint nick
regardless of how many posts I have, I don't consider myself an "expert" at anything
I've seen this a bunch on eBay over the years, mostly from ex-USSR-country dealers: Quality of minting: Uncirculated (may have slight defects caused by process of minting)
<< <i>If you're not willing to overpay for a coin, it's probably not worth keeping. >>
I'm not sure that getting buried in a coin is ever a good idea. Interests change and you may want to sell it some day.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>If you're not willing to overpay for a coin, it's probably not worth keeping. >>
I'm not sure that getting buried in a coin is ever a good idea. Interests change and you may want to sell it some day. >>
This one is about controlling the size of a collection, so you don't go overboard with peripheral interests and regret your decisions tomorrow.
If you're debating whether to buy, and don't hear a voice whisper "must have! what's a few more dollars!?" then you don't really want it.
Not buried, just the self-admission and realization at the point of sale that you REALLY like the coin.
I guess if you're investing in the piece, and you know up-front that you're not personally or emotionally interested, then this idiom has no relevance.
This kinds BS pisses me off because novice collectors (and kids especially) will believe it:
<< <i>Remember, if a coin is in circulation for more than 20 years and has no tarnish then it has been cleaned at some point in time (Copper And Silver)! >>
This taken from an eBay seller's listing for a "SILVER Crown - Very Nice LOOK" of which only 50% is silver and it's VG at best (not very nice for a modern especially).
They probably own a Jewelry store. Or a pawn shop. Hard to say really, they often sell the same coins.
Comments
<< <i>I've frequently said "Buy the highest grade that makes sense." Or, in other words "Buy the highest grade before the big jump in price in the next higher grade." For example, if a coin is worth $500 in MS63 and then jumps to $5000 in MS64, look for a nice high end MS63 to get the most bang for the buck. >>
I prefer the following:
Buy the highest grade where you can appreciate the difference in quality vs the extra money you spend
and
Buy the best coin you can for that grade
I like the one about drawing the line at the grade where you can no longer tell the difference. Unfortunately for me, I have a young discriminating eye and a very powerful glass
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Dealer (friend of mine): It grades $50.00.
depends largely on the value of the coin, and the goals of the collector. some people have no interest in plastic investment
<< <i>"There's no Santa Claus in numismatics"--Abe Kosoff, I believe. >>
There are many dealers and sharp collectors that live off the oppositie of that truism. They consistently "find" those Santa Claus deals. Call them top 1% ers.
Based on the deals I've seen walk into my LCS, they count on Santa visiting at least several times each year.
While buying in the grade just below a major jump in price makes sense, it's actually the "safest" bet, not necessarily the best bet. With REG set fever run amock the
past 10 yrs, it's often been the grade where the price jump occurred (or higher) where the strongest gains were realized. The strongest buyers always seem to want the best coin,
not the "safest" value.
To all - I really enjoy all the comments. What a great hobby.
------------
Vern
l
It's not having what you want, it's wanting what you've got.
<< <i>You can't buy a problem coin cheap enough
That line about the difference between a 69 and 70 sounds like my line >>
Never heard that one but I like it.
Tom
<< <i>
<< <i>You can't buy a problem coin cheap enough
That line about the difference between a 69 and 70 sounds like my line >>
Never heard that one but I like it. >>
Ultimately price is the difference between any two grades.
If you don't believe it then buy a high end VF or low end XF '26-S buffalo. A little terminology can go a very long way.
Quality of minting: Uncirculated (may have slight defects caused by process of minting)
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Original can be relative.
K
My 1866 Philly Mint Set
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
<< <i>When selling a coin at a loss---'it's the price of owning it' or 'isn't satisfaction worth something?' Both are BS IMHO. >>
AMEN SELAH!
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Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
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<< <i>If you're not willing to overpay for a coin, it's probably not worth keeping. >>
I'm not sure that getting buried in a coin is ever a good idea. Interests change and you may want to sell it some day.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Me: What`s this coin? (how much)
Dealer: Oh, that coin, $XXX;... that`s an "XX grade all day long" (when it`s slabbed a point or two lower)
Seems every coin this dealer has is undergraded a point or two
<< <i>
<< <i>If you're not willing to overpay for a coin, it's probably not worth keeping. >>
I'm not sure that getting buried in a coin is ever a good idea. Interests change and you may want to sell it some day. >>
This one is about controlling the size of a collection, so you don't go overboard with peripheral interests and regret your decisions tomorrow.
If you're debating whether to buy, and don't hear a voice whisper "must have! what's a few more dollars!?" then you don't really want it.
Not buried, just the self-admission and realization at the point of sale that you REALLY like the coin.
I guess if you're investing in the piece, and you know up-front that you're not personally or emotionally interested, then this idiom has no relevance.
Amat Colligendo Focum
Top 10 • FOR SALE
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
<< <i>Remember, if a coin is in circulation for more than 20 years and has no tarnish then it has been cleaned at some point in time (Copper And Silver)! >>
This taken from an eBay seller's listing for a "SILVER Crown - Very Nice LOOK" of which only 50% is silver and it's VG at best (not very nice for a modern especially).
They probably own a Jewelry store. Or a pawn shop. Hard to say really, they often sell the same coins.
Amat Colligendo Focum
Top 10 • FOR SALE