1893-S Morgan questions

Chayanoot

If correct I have a legit 1893-S Morgan here. (Sorry for bad pics, if I need to buy microscope for better ones I will and repost/add.) Am I correct the only variety allowed on an 1893-S is the "VAM 4 Doubled Stars" or is that for just the 1893 only? I do see in coinfacts a die variety of VAM 1 though which mine looks like it is based on the mint mark. (Still learning, could be wrong?) My other questions are:

• Is that a die crack in forehead or coin damage?
• From chin to ear to hair it looks indented or something? Is this possible public handling damage or a die error?

I want to get this coin slabbed with PCGS but before I do I want to make sure I fill everything out correctly for grading. Looks to be a possible grade of VG08 - VG10?

CascadeChris

Only 1 obverse die and 2 reverse dies were used. Date position looks correct given the wear but we would need to see a very clear close up pic of the R in liberty to confirm. Or you can see if it has the "rabbits ears" die marker in hand...

http://www.vamworld.com/1893-S+VAMs

Chayanoot

Yes I agree to make sure for sure on legitness but my eye loop can not see in there or too dirty. I have looked at the 1 and 3 placement that seems to be good too though. Guess I will be buying the microscope to see inside R better. Someone told me to get a 20x240 stereo microscope.

ricko

@Chayanoot.... Welcome aboard.... perhaps a rinse in pure acetone will remove the dirt - it will not harm the coin in any way.... Though it may expose some detail you do not presently see... I would try that before buying a microscope...Cheers, RickO

slider23

A 10K loop should be more than enough to see the rabbit ears and the die scratch in the T.

jdimmick

shes good

Insider2

@Chayanoot said:
Yes I agree to make sure for sure on legitness but my eye loop can not see in there or too dirty. I have looked at the 1 and 3 placement that seems to be good too though. Guess I will be buying the microscope to see inside R better. Someone told me to get a 20x240 stereo microscope.

DON'T You'll get more use out of one with powers below 8X and you'll virtually never need to go above 40X as you'll need special lighting to see much over that. Now, I suggest you start a new discussion and ask "What kind of microscope do you use and why?"

Welcome!

CascadeChris

A good 10x triplet loupe is all that is needed 99% of the time. I use a Belomo made in Belarus. Cost around $30 on eBay/Amazon. Best I've ever had in terms of optics

Chayanoot

@slider23 said:
A 10K loop should be more than enough to see the rabbit ears and the die scratch in the T.

I have the following: (maybe I just need more light?)
Zeiss Optics D40 10x Aplanatic Achromatic Pocket Magnifier Z00006

Chayanoot

@Insider2 said:

@Chayanoot said:
Yes I agree to make sure for sure on legitness but my eye loop can not see in there or too dirty. I have looked at the 1 and 3 placement that seems to be good too though. Guess I will be buying the microscope to see inside R better. Someone told me to get a 20x240 stereo microscope.

DON'T You'll get more use out of one with powers below 8X and you'll virtually never need to go above 40X as you'll need special lighting to see much over that. Now, I suggest you start a new discussion and ask "What kind of microscope do you use and why?"

Welcome!

No reason to start a new discussion ... still waiting on someone to help answer my questions on the original about the forehead and indention across the coin.

Chayanoot

@jdimmick said:
shes good

Thanks ... I bought from a reputable auction company too.

CascadeChris

@Chayanoot said:

@Insider2 said:

@Chayanoot said:
Yes I agree to make sure for sure on legitness but my eye loop can not see in there or too dirty. I have looked at the 1 and 3 placement that seems to be good too though. Guess I will be buying the microscope to see inside R better. Someone told me to get a 20x240 stereo microscope.

DON'T You'll get more use out of one with powers below 8X and you'll virtually never need to go above 40X as you'll need special lighting to see much over that. Now, I suggest you start a new discussion and ask "What kind of microscope do you use and why?"

Welcome!

No reason to start a new discussion ... still waiting on someone to help answer my questions on the original about the forehead and indention across the coin.

Post mint damage. Oddly enough though this is an issue where in this grade that won't effect the value much. It needs to be slabbed by one of the big 3 though

Chayanoot

Post mint damage. Oddly enough though this is an issue where in this grade that won't effect the value much. It needs to be slabbed by one of the big 3 though

I will be sending to PCGS ... Just didn't know if I needed to include any variety like VAM 1 or error for the chip in forehead when I do. Thanks for your help.

Insider2

@Chayanoot said: "No reason to start a new discussion ... still waiting on someone to help answer my questions on the original about the forehead and indention across the coin."

I know quite a few professional authenticators and one thing I am sure they would say: "I'm sorry but there is no way I can tell you much about that coin (including its authenticity) with the images you posted."

Chayanoot

@Insider2 said:
@Chayanoot said: "No reason to start a new discussion ... still waiting on someone to help answer my questions on the original about the forehead and indention across the coin."

I know quite a few professional authenticators and one thing I am sure they would say: "I'm sorry but there is no way I can tell you much about that coin (including its authenticity) with the images you posted."

More reason for me to buy a digital microscope for future pictures on authenticity I guess ... but should still be able to get my general questions answered about the condition of it for now. ;-)

ECHOES

Send her to PCGS, let us know the outcome...

Chayanoot

This is the best I can do with my loop and phone camera for those wanting a closer picture.

CascadeChris

@Chayanoot said:

Post mint damage. Oddly enough though this is an issue where in this grade that won't effect the value much. It needs to be slabbed by one of the big 3 though

I will be sending to PCGS ... Just didn't know if I needed to include any variety like VAM 1 or error for the chip in forehead when I do. Thanks for your help.

No need to include which VAM as neither are list VAMs so they won't label attribute it anyway. Yours can only be VAM 1 from the fuzzy look of it as your MM doesn't look like it has the slant to the right like VAM 2. You're only going for authentication.

Insider2

@Chayanoot said:
This is the best I can do with my loop and phone camera for those wanting a closer picture.

Nice image. I don't see the "rabbit ear" or the polish in the T. Now if you have the time, look at the John Robert's ANACS link above. See if you can get a magnified photo like he has posted showing the lower hair curl area. There is somthing he does not mention in that image that can seal the deal on your coin.

As someone already posted, the scratch by the eye is insignificant at this grade level. So are the other marks - nose & forehead.

mannie gray

If you could post a closeup of the mintnark area that might help us too.

LRCTom

I had a chance to buy a very similar 93-S at an auction a few years back. It had a similar look to this one: the alignment of the "1" was right, and the mint mark looked good and was in a correct position. But like this one, I could see no trace of the "rabbit ear" or the die line in the "T". I passed, with reluctance; a local dealer got it for a price that was very right, assuming it was real. I've always wondered about that coin. This one is very similar.

Chayanoot

Took a while but I finally got it graded through NGC confirming its authenticity with help of a coin shop who I sold too also.