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Mercury Dimes - What to look for in a nice one? Strike Characteristics?
ManifestDestiny
Posts: 106 ✭✭✭
I am looking at acquiring a 1917-D MS64FB Mercury Dime. I understand what I should be looking for on the reverse, but what characteristics should I be looking for on the obverse. What are signs of a good strike, etc...?
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Wow, that is a lot of detail. Is that the norm or the exception on a Mercury dime. I did some googling and saw this MS64FB coin and a lot of the detail in the head is not there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1917-D-PCGS-MS64FB-Full-Bands-Mercury-Dime-/322058617680?hash=item4afc308350:g:w8kAAOSwjDZYgk3T
Here is a 17P that I have. Take your time and you can find one with a nice strike.
Is this coin going into a set?
I dont know how much you already know on merc dimes, but the FB makes huge difference in price and the strike quality is generally better on fb dimes.
The toning on the one you show is not very attractive, but there really arent alot of these in that condition to choose from. Refer to coin facts and photograde for more info on population etc and a rough idea of pricing.
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The 1917-D coin is struck a bit differently than other Mercs. Even higher grade (65 and higher) will be weakly struck around the temple, and in general towards the center of the coin due to the high relief nature of the 1917-D coin itself. The bands should be pretty strong though, if it's an FB dime.
Actually there are two different 1917 Mercs. A type of 16 and a type of 17. During 1917 both types were made and the change was in the Hair Area. Type of 16 is a little weaker most of the time. The 17 that I showed is a type of 17 dime. Then again in 1918 they made another small change in the Hair Area which made the 18 dime more clear in the Hair Area. No other changes were made from 1918 until the end of the series. Like I said take your time and you will find a nice one.
Ken
Ken, have you seen many type 1917 Mercs from Denver with FB? I am drawing a blank but from my memory I just don't recall seeing many. Most FB ones I saw (in hand anyway) were of the 1916 type. I recall the 1917 type tended to be a bit flatter as opposed to the Golden Arches of the 1916 type
The coin will be going into a Denver type set so I would like to buy a very nice example of the coin in MS64FB.
I have all 6 of the 1917's PDS Type16 and Type17. Will have to check which if any have FB's.
I think you are correct. I have 2 that are 58's with strong bands and both are type of 16.
Maybe Dimeman will help us out on this.
Ken
Looking for Mercury dime or any other coin you should look first for eye appeal and then for strike. Them small tiny marks are over rated.
The Mercury dime is a favorite of mine... I first look for strike detail... that is, to me, most important. Second, I prefer non-tarnished pieces.... third, the lack of dings or scratches..... Cheers, RickO
Another key aspect is to inspect for hairlines from a past cleaning, that is best done in hand. Don't confuse acquired hairlines with die polish lines tho', mercs typically can have them die lines.
Best, SH
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The 1918 above is a good example for a near perfect obverse strike (90-95% full?), even down to the clearly defined inner rims (not dished), wire edge, etc. But, the 1917 has a stronger forelock. Just goes to show that a single coin having "everything" is not easy to find. Liberty's hair and cap form a "V" from her ear. The more lines you can see along that "V," the better. Look at some proof Mercs too.