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Poll - For Classic coins, do you prefer : Circulated, Mint State, or Proof?

For my type set, I have a combination of all three.
Some proof coins have very low mintages and are still reasonably priced.
For early classic coins, Mint State are very expensive.
I'm thinking about rebuilding my type set to change MS and proofs to circulated (AU if affordable)
I think AU-58 is the best grade because it has the extra factor of being used by the people of the era, but still has nice detail.
Some proof coins have very low mintages and are still reasonably priced.
For early classic coins, Mint State are very expensive.
I'm thinking about rebuilding my type set to change MS and proofs to circulated (AU if affordable)
I think AU-58 is the best grade because it has the extra factor of being used by the people of the era, but still has nice detail.
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Comments
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
I do have a classic head half cent in MS64 and a coronet large cent graded MS62, but they had exceptional eye appeal and were priced just right, so there are a few exceptions to the rule of older coins being in poorer condition. It all depends on the scarcity of the series in higher coins. These two just happened to be hoard coins. Had there never been hoards found, I would probably have no better than XF examples. My type 1 double eagle is graded XF40 because of the scarcity of mint-state type 1 double eagles. My type 2 is graded AU58 and my type 3 is graded MS62. Every coin has a unique history. There is a story behind why every 100+ year-old coin is available today in the condition it is. That's half the fun of collecting.
AU58 is often the 'sweet spot' for coins of the mid to late 19th century onwards, but there are plenty of exceptions. The three dollar gold piece is one of these exceptions. There is a large price spike between AU55 and AU58, so I went with an AU55.
To claim to collect coins in AU58 is an over-simplified strategy unless you are targeting one specific series. Even then, conditional rarities will make it extremely difficult to stick to one grade. Eye appeal should weight more heavily than grade. I've seen plenty of MS62 graded coins that look better than MS64 coins. You cannot tell me you will reject a beautiful MS62 coin that is priced just right on the basis it is not an AU58 unless it is a conditional rarity in mint state. You might even find a AU55 coin that looks better than an AU58 counterpart.
I have one proof seated liberty coin in the type set and bought it because of the eye appeal.
As for Proofs....for a reason I can't quite describe, I place them in a totally separate category. They are RELATED to mint issued coins, but somehow not the same to me. They weren't intended for circulation, and therefore don't have the same historical significance to me. They're almost like fantasy representations of the real thing....
(Yes, you can make very persuasive and valid arguments that I'm completely nuts....but it probably won't change my mind).
I have a US type set, and I generally try to spend roughly the same amount on each coin. Sometimes that means I can afford an MS68 and sometimes that means I can afford an F12. Within a series I try to keep things fairly consistent (all the Seated or Barber denominations should have roughly the same look). I try to not go lower than F12, as the design elements start to disappear. Some of my favorites are circulated pieces. My design breaks down when it comes to chain cents, early gold, and such...... Perhaps that's why I don't have those yet.
Successful transactions with: wondercoin, Tetromibi, PerryHall, PlatinumDuck, JohnMaben/Pegasus Coin & Jewelry, CoinFlip, and coinlieutenant.
I went with "Mint State" more as a wish than reality.....As noted by others, circulated is more financially viable.
As for Proofs....for a reason I can't quite describe, I place them in a totally separate category. They are RELATED to mint issued coins, but somehow not the same to me. They weren't intended for circulation, and therefore don't have the same historical significance to me. They're almost like fantasy representations of the real thing....
(Yes, you can make very persuasive and valid arguments that I'm completely nuts....but it probably won't change my mind).
Well, then we're both nuts because I agree with you.
But that's just me.
As much as I like Baley's profile picture, I also like his response. It's simple and I 100% agree. I would add that it might even be an AG instead of a VG or F. Yeah it is extremely rare that I would want to own an AG, but sometimes given the budget, that is the best coin one can afford.
+1
There needs to be another vote "depends on series and/or rarity" button.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
BST transactions: dbldie55, jayPem, 78saen, UltraHighRelief, nibanny, liefgold, FallGuy, lkeigwin, mbogoman, Sandman70gt, keets, joeykoins, ianrussell (@GC), EagleEye, ThePennyLady, GRANDAM, Ilikecolor, Gluggo, okiedude, Voyageur, LJenkins11, fastfreddie, ms70, pursuitofliberty, ZoidMeister,Coin Finder, GotTheBug, edwardjulio, Coinnmore, Nickpatton, Namvet69,...
However, I am trying to figure out how to take my collection to the next level. I ask myself the question over and over again: What's next?
Do I buy more rare coins in XF-AU grades? Upgrade to Mint State? Switch to Proof? Is Proof in enough demand for appreciation potential?
I only want eye appealing classic coins but I would like my children to be able to sell them in 20 or 30 years for more than I paid for them. I will be reading the responses here with great interest.
(For the sake of full disclosure, I did not vote in the poll. I simply don't know at the moment!)