How To Guarantee 90% of your Best Offers on Ebay will be declined
doog71
Posts: 405 ✭✭
Offer fair market value based on recent completed auctions.
I generally offer the median price for the 3-4 most recent completed auctions (not BINs). I would say the offer gets accepted maybe 10% of the time.
Not whining, people can ask what they want for their cards, just my experience.
I generally offer the median price for the 3-4 most recent completed auctions (not BINs). I would say the offer gets accepted maybe 10% of the time.
Not whining, people can ask what they want for their cards, just my experience.
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Auctions not buy it now price. Simple the answer is
Exactly. If the seller wanted auction prices, the seller would not use buy-it-now.
Matt
I'd say about 75% of my offers are accepted first time.
Another thing that gets under my skin is the "I can't sell it for that X, I bought it for 2X". How am I supposed to know what you paid for something? Also, what you paid for something is semi-irrelevant to what you are trying to sell it for.
I don't begrudge anyone for trying to get the most you can for an item, but if you are offering something for sale, you must consider the current market for that item.
https://kennerstartinglineup.blogspot.com/
A lot of times, sellers use OBO to start a negotiation. If I'm making an offer on something I really want and am truly giving my best offer, I'll mention in a note that this is my true offer and may mention what similar items went for in past eBay sales. This tactic works quite often.
I do try this method and am as courteous as possible, but you definitely have a better track record than I do.
Interesting what others have mentioned on this thread, that some folks don't care one way or the other if they sell the card. I'm sure that's the case but why go to the effort to post it if you don't care one way or the other? Maybe willing to sell if they are blown away from the offer but otherwise no I suppose.
Conversely I have sold some Heritage baseball sets with an OBO option and the sharks began to circle and bite. About a year or so ago I had a 2008 Heritage 1 - 720 set without the subsets, the Santana and Smoltz variations and it was combined with green and black backs. Not a master set, but not too far away either. I had it at $170 or OBO and received offers of less than $90; I was miffed to say the least. Yes, a potential buyer has the right to offer what they are willing to pay, but when it's that far off of the mark is insulting. I eventually got about $140, less than what I had hoped for, but I could live with it.
One other variation of the OBO which happens on a rare occasion is when the best offer is above the initial asking price. It usually will state "I will be accepting the best offer above..." I wonder how many times that approach has worked?
Card A - Sales at $31, $39, 42, $31, 35 and $34. BIN/OBO Price set at $59.95, I offer $35 and am countered $55 with the message "Player X is going to be a beast this year"
Card B - Sales at $61, $142, $91, $146 and $88. BIN/OBO Price set at $159.95, I offer $97, countered at $150>
Card C - No sales as it is a #ed/5. Parallels to 25 of this card selling for $21, parallels to 10 selling for $35. Bin/OBO price is $129.95, I offer $80 (Which I feel is high) countered at $90. I dont buy.
Just a few examples, but the problem I see is not that people are wanting too much for the cards, it is after all, their cards, the problem is that every now and then, they
get the money they ask for and are willing to "sit it out" even with the higher prices.
From a sellers standpoint, I try to price my BIN/BO near the high end of the range of previous sales and usually take the first offer near the average I get. I will not counter an offer of less
than 50% of my BIN price as I feel it is pointless to negotiate someone lowballing that badly.
Just my 2 cents
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I prefer to move the needle, why take what the last sold for?
+1, or in many cases with what I'm selling set the needle.
I will never be able to understand why as a seller anyone would list in the BIN/OBO format without also including setting some negotiation barriers with the auto-accept & auto-decline options. Using those options makes it better for all parties involved. Common sense wins.
I will never be able to understand why as a seller anyone would list in the BIN/OBO format without also including setting some negotiation barriers with the auto-accept & auto-decline options. Using those options makes it better for all parties involved. Common sense wins.
Auto decline I can understand, but you may be losing money if you set an auto accept that is lower than what someone else might be willing to pay. Personally, I leave it wide open. It's not like it's a chore to accept, decline or counter an offer.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Place bids in any of those recent auctions/sales you're so eager to point out to the current seller.
How To Guarantee 90% of your Best Offers on Ebay won't be necessary.
Place bids in any of those recent auctions/sales you're so eager to point out to the current seller.
Card B - Sales at $61, $142, $91, $146 and $88. BIN/OBO Price set at $159.95, I offer $97, countered at $150>
Just an update on this and a humorous one. After turning down my offer of $97, this card was listed in an auction and it got $71. A loss of over 25%.
An example where I would not bid (occurred in the last year) is a BIN of $3499 for a card that normally sells in the $1200-$1300 range. I offered $1500, so a premium over all previous sales for a card that was not super rare, and was countered with $3000. When the card came up for auction I chose not to bid and it went for $1200 something. I eventually got the card later for less than $1500.
Robb
So did you buy it for $71, or will you be waiting for the next one to come up for $159.95 and again offer $97. An increased cost to you of over 36%.
Actually, neither. I own 7 of the #/25, know I wont get all of them anyway and chose not to bid on it at all. Not worried about the next one until it comes up
by the third offer i get serious
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Major_League_Baseball_players_from_Panama
If I make a reasonable best offer and a seller counters with what I consider a ridiculous offer I don't bother bidding if they end up listing the card for auction. In the mtcards example the BIN of $146 skews everything so I can't really blame the seller for the $150 counter. In that situation I would have bid on the auction with a max bid of $97.
An example where I would not bid (occurred in the last year) is a BIN of $3499 for a card that normally sells in the $1200-$1300 range. I offered $1500, so a premium over all previous sales for a card that was not super rare, and was countered with $3000. When the card came up for auction I chose not to bid and it went for $1200 something. I eventually got the card later for less than $1500.
Robb
Not picking on Robb here because several others have mentioned the same thing, but I am a bit surprised how many take the time to even attempt to deal with sellers who are so far out of touch with their prices. Never in my wildest dreams would I think anyone greedy enough to offer a $1200 card for $3499 would accept an offer of $1500, and to be honest I'm not sure I'd want to deal with such a person even if they did accept the offer (simply out of principle). I'm curious, has anyone actually successfully purchased something with an offer of 42% of the BIN price?
Yes, as low as 20-25%.
Robb
Yes. Last week I was able to negotiate an item at a 84.5% discount to the BIN price. This was a very low pop, PSA 10 card of a hall of fame football player (non-rookie card).
It never hurts to ask...
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I originally made an offer of $155 which the seller declined without countering. Several weeks later, the seller contacted me and informed me that I was only one who had made an offer. They mentioned that if I wanted the card for my $150 offer, I could have it. I didn't feel the need to correct the seller in that my original offer was actually $155.
My original offer price was what I felt the card was actually worth. I enjoyed it for several years and later sold it for a few bucks more than I had into it.
For what it's worth, I eventually bought a card for $150 that was listed as a $2000 BO/BIN.
I originally made an offer of $155 which the seller declined without countering. Several weeks later, the seller contacted me and informed me that I was only one who had made an offer. They mentioned that if I wanted the card for my $150 offer, I could have it. I didn't feel the need to correct the seller in that my original offer was actually $155.
My original offer price was what I felt the card was actually worth. I enjoyed it for several years and later sold it for a few bucks more than I had into it.
This is an good illustration as to why the percentage of the BIN price is useless as the BIN price can be either reasonable or ridiculous.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
This is an good illustration as to why the percentage of the BIN price is useless as the BIN price can be either reasonable or ridiculous.
Heh. And this whole time I thought it was due to my shrewd negotiation skills.
This is an good illustration as to why the percentage of the BIN price is useless as the BIN price can be either reasonable or ridiculous.
Heh. And this whole time I thought it was due to my shrewd negotiation skills.
I'm sure that was part of the equation in this case, too, lol..
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
I've never setup at a show, but If I did I wouldn't accept anything less than the sticker price UNLESS the buyer is interested in purchasing more than one item. I feel once you start bundling things up, you can do a better deal that works out for both parties. Maybe that's how a lot of eBay sellers feel?
The point of a BIN with or without a best offer is to sidestep the landmines that come with the auction format.
As such, with straight BINs, I expect to pay over the average auction sales price (if such real and fair data exists) for the option to purchase an item now without risk of getting outbid.
When best offer comes into play I still expect to pay above average auction price, however, I have the added benefit of trying to negotiate a bigger deal if the seller has other items I'm also interested in.
Agree 100% here.