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Scratched holders--why don't shops fix them?

I've been at a lot of coin dealer shops and almost none of them I know clean up their scratched holders with relatively cheap products. Why don't they?
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Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Some combination of not noticing it, not caring, and not knowing how.
I'd say that based on the way that I've seen dealers handling them that it's largely a case of not caring. There's probably little or no advantage to them to do so and they run the risk of ruining the slab or making it worse.
Personally, I wouldn't want anyone fooling with my slabs before I bought them.
Minor scratches don't bother me at all.
They would have to be very bad and occlude the view of the coin before they'd be an issue for me. JMHO.
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It's too easy to use some Simichrome gently and remove the scratches.
IF they're minor.
Couple minutes effort.
It's not caring.
I want CLEAR plastic.
It's too easy to use some Simichrome gently and remove the scratches.
IF they're minor.
Couple minutes effort.
It's not caring.
I agree.
Has a scuffed slab ever stopped a coin purchase? Have you ever paid a premium because the slab didn't have scratches?
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I just got the Jon Alan Boka 1794 large cent catalog from HA and the huge photo on the cover shows the starred reverse coin, hiding behind a scratched slab. Surely someone could have spent 30 seconds to clean that up prior to taking the photo. It's bad enough anytime, but as the cover photo for the whole auction? I'd be embarrassed.
I've learned how to fix them auto headlight polish, a towel and elbow grease. Some guys use a drill and polishing attachment, but I'm not very handy.
I think the bigger question is why don't more collectors and dealers handle their slabs better???
I removed the wheel guard, tool rest.
I purchased a "string buffing wheel" from Eastwood. (I used to restore antique cars and this wheel is specifically meant for plastic instrumentation dash panels and Taligent lenses).
It takes me 10 seconds to polish a slab. 98% of my slabs turn out beautiful. Some slabs you just cannot help. It might take some dexterity at first but once you get used to it you don't want to manually polish again.
Enjoyed numismatic conversations with Eric P. Newman, Dave Akers, Jules Reiver, David Davis, Russ Logan, John McCloskey, Kirk Gorman, W. David Perkins...
I think the bigger question is why don't more collectors and dealers handle their slabs better???
Amen
I think the bigger question is why don't more collectors and dealers handle their slabs better???
Amen
That gets hard to do when people are going through boxes at the auction lot viewing and at the shows. You can't put plastic covers on everything and take them off each time someone views an item.
Some of the problem with scuffing might be attributed to the slab design tolerances? If you lay a straight edge across the slab you will notice a range of clearance differences - compare the outside plane to the center plane. The center of the circle of the slab appears to have a slight outward "bow" (which might be as designed), but is actually on the same plane as the outer raised rim that supposedly(?) protects from it from rubbing. Sometimes the front (obverse) of the slab has a clearance of about .010" while the back (reverse) has no clearance - then visa versa.
Most slabs have sufficient clearances on both sides of about .015" - .020" of an inch.
I did check my NGC slabs and found likewise similarities.
Sliding these things around all day can take a toll.
Enjoyed numismatic conversations with Eric P. Newman, Dave Akers, Jules Reiver, David Davis, Russ Logan, John McCloskey, Kirk Gorman, W. David Perkins...
eheheh
Just an observation:
Some of the problem with scuffing might be attributed to the slab design tolerances? If you lay a straight edge across the slab you will notice a range of clearance differences - compare the outside plane to the center plane. The center of the circle of the slab appears to have a slight outward "bow" (which might be as designed), but is actually on the same plane as the outer raised rim that supposedly(?) protects from it from rubbing. Sometimes the front (obverse) of the slab has a clearance of about .010" while the back (reverse) has no clearance - then visa versa.
Most slabs have sufficient clearances on both sides of about .015" - .020" of an inch.
I did check my NGC slabs and found likewise similarities.
Sliding these things around all day can take a toll.
I've had new slabs come back from PCGS that are cloudy or abraded in the viewing/lens area.
Wait, I think I can see a fault in that.
My 1866 Philly Mint Set
Edited to add: That's assuming that polishing the slab doesn't work and the coins need to be reholdered. As the OP mentioned, at least the dealer could try to rub it out with PlastX or something, which doesn't cost much money or time.
Some combination of not noticing it, not caring, and not knowing how.
I agree with this.
As an aside, I have revealed one or two coins that were much nicer that I had bought them as after a little Plastix
They leave it up to the buyer.
Personally, I wouldn't want anyone fooling with my slabs before I bought them.
Minor scratches don't bother me at all.
They would have to be very bad and occlude the view of the coin before they'd be an issue for me. JMHO.
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