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Opinions..are all BU's created equal and which AGE to buy?

seebelowseebelow Posts: 1,643 ✭✭✭
in Precious Metals
Hi guys,

I've been wondering about two things and am interested in your opinions. First, I'm not a huge collector. Basically, a stacker that just buys a little each month. I was just buying AGE's stamped with that particular year. But you can get random years for a bit cheaper price. They say that theyre still BU. I'm sure they give you the year thatnthey have excess of or overproduced.

So in your experience...
1. Versus buying the 2015 BUs, are the "random year(BU) AGEs" still the same quality? Or are they cherry picked?
2. And since I'm just interested in buying a certain quantity each year, why not just buy the "random year AGE" vs. the 2015's ? Any downside?

Thanks again.
Interested in higher grade vintage cards. Aren't we all. image

Comments

  • rawteam1rawteam1 Posts: 2,472 ✭✭✭
    Lol, you can't cherry pick bullion, oh wait, yes you can, if you are in the circus...
    keceph `anah
  • VanHalenVanHalen Posts: 3,993 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If they are cheaper, buy the random year. You said you are a stacker and they all stack the same.

    image
  • mariner67mariner67 Posts: 2,746 ✭✭✭


    << <i>If they are cheaper, buy the random year. You said you are a stacker and they all stack the same.

    image >>



    +1
    Bullion is bullion.
    However, I somewhat prefer Buffalos over the Eagles(in bullion, not the NFL).
    .....although, the Bills have a great new owner.
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  • derrybderryb Posts: 36,824 ✭✭✭✭✭
    gold eagles are gold eagles unless they are the more desired burnished with the W mintmark. Some would also argue proofs have added value.

    Buffalos are also a good bullion play. If just wanting to stack bullion go with the best price.

    If you want perfect, pay the extra for those already graded.


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  • seebelowseebelow Posts: 1,643 ✭✭✭
    Gee whiz raw team, great I could make you laugh.

    What I meant by cherry pick a BU coin was that maybe they're not entirely pristine or whichever term. Maybe some has nicks, spots, buffs, or discolorations that I've read about on here. If they're older coins I would think they are more prone to have some imperfection vs right off the press.
    I distinctly remember people here being worried that when buying A monster box or coin tube that they had been picked thru. That being the basis of my question. Must have missed the circus.

    In my question, is why the difference in pricing between a 2014,2015 or random year if they are not graded.

    ...if you don't have something nice to say...or even contribute... Youre response is precisely why a lot of boards die out. IMO.
    Interested in higher grade vintage cards. Aren't we all. image
  • Timbuk3Timbuk3 Posts: 11,658 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There are different idea's regarding
    your situation. I think many pass
    dated coins may have been cherry
    picked. Why not buy at least one of
    the current years, then you can start
    a run of different dates. I prefer to
    buy one Unc. and one Proof.
    Regardless, good luck. I think you're
    on the right path !!! image
    Timbuk3
  • rawteam1rawteam1 Posts: 2,472 ✭✭✭
    Lol, it's the circus... You know pay more , you can't figure it out???!!!... Lol...

    Oh edit to Add, u think they check the 400 oz bars for nicks, spots, etc... Really?!!!...
    keceph `anah
  • seebelowseebelow Posts: 1,643 ✭✭✭
    Timbuk, thanks. That's exactly what has been my thought. And why i have been paying a few bucks more. I would have a run going but by the end of the year have 12-17 of that year. Which made me start rethinking the strategy.

    Derry and mariner, that where I get differing answers..buffalo vs eagle. Why do u prefer buffalo because a lot were saying how the age are more liquid etc.

    Thanks for the thoughtful, helpful, intelligent, socially acceptable answers.
    Interested in higher grade vintage cards. Aren't we all. image
  • JohnnyCacheJohnnyCache Posts: 1,761 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>buffalo vs eagle >>



    Though both have an ounce of gold, the buffalo is one ounce pure .9999 gold with the coin weighing exactly 1 troy ounce.
    The AGE "contains" one ounce of pure gold (.9167%) with a touch of silver (.03%) and a touch of copper (.0533%) for a total coin weight of 33.931 grams

    Some prefer the straight up pure gold coin.
    For others it may also just come down to a preference of design.

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  • jmski52jmski52 Posts: 22,856 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you buy the more recent years, the AGEs are less cherrypicked than if you buy older ones, simply because they haven't reached the point of "final distribution" yet. Also, if you buy in batches or multiples, say of 10 coins or more, you will get coins that have been on the same train ride together.

    Either way, most AGEs really haven't been heavily-circulated and most purchases of "random years" will still include decent looking coins. Every bullion AGE bought directly from a major bullion seller has been cherry-picked at least once, but probably not more than once.

    buffaloes vs. eagles? The Gold Buffs are .999 and therefore are softer and more easily scratched or dinged. Not a problem if you are only stacking bullion, and not ever stopping to admire the coins.

    The Gold Eagles are available in fractional denominations whereas the Gold Buffs are now only sold as 1 ozers. The Gold Eagles are .9167 and a little more wear-resistant if you like to look at gold coinage.

    Then, there are the collectible versions - Proof Gold Buffs and Proof & Burnished Gold Eagles. All of them command a premium and cost more than their bullion counterparts. They also require much more careful handling.

    The financial difference between the bullion coins vs. the "collectible bullion" coins is that the bullion coins track the spot price more reliably, and the collectible bullion coins sometimes go their own way if they are seen as rarities. Lately, that hasn't happened as much because the less than vibrant economy has dampened people's willingness to pay premiums for collectible coins.

    However, the knife cuts both ways. If the economy becomes healthy, demand will increase for the collectible versions and the increase in premiums for the collectible coins will cause their prices to rise faster than the prices of the regular bullion coins.

    I like a mixture of both straight bullion coins and collectible bullion coins. It's an individual preference kind of thing.image
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  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you are collecting, pay the premium, if you are stacking, go for the cheaper units. Cheers, RickO
  • rawteam1rawteam1 Posts: 2,472 ✭✭✭


    << <i>If you are collecting, pay the premium, if you are stacking, go for the cheaper units. Cheers, RickO >>


    Yep, lol, depends if you're are investing in gold, or buying dates...
    keceph `anah
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,082 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Hi guys,

    I've been wondering about two things and am interested in your opinions. First, I'm not a huge collector. Basically, a stacker that just buys a little each month. I was just buying AGE's stamped with that particular year. But you can get random years for a bit cheaper price. They say that theyre still BU. I'm sure they give you the year thatnthey have excess of or overproduced.

    So in your experience...
    1. Versus buying the 2015 BUs, are the "random year(BU) AGEs" still the same quality? Or are they cherry picked?
    2. And since I'm just interested in buying a certain quantity each year, why not just buy the "random year AGE" vs. the 2015's ? Any downside?

    Thanks again. >>




    It depends upon who you buy from. Most of the random date coins are ok. Different sellers describe them differently.
    If they truly are junk coins, scuffers or scrapers they should be described and priced accordingly. If in doubt, ask before you buy.
    theknowitalltroll;
  • seebelowseebelow Posts: 1,643 ✭✭✭
    Jmski...awesome write up. Really appreciate your time. You brought up some great points I haven't thought of being a newbie in your world. Very important about the wear and tear, the collect ability etc. I've been getting the AGE's from apex. Looking back at the newer ones, none are really dinger. The percent composition makes a big difference.
    Thanks again buddy.

    Love conversing with people who know what they're talking about/knowledgeable in their field.

    I'm just buying for the bulk. I'm sure I'll never have them graded when it comes time to sell. Just don't want the buyer saying that some poorer conditioned coin is somehow worth less than it's weight in gold. Would any pay more than their weight because they are BU?

    Thanks all...that why we have these forums to share our knowledge. Been on many other forums, and Ive found the vast majority involved with precious metals to be very knowledgeable, kind, educated and willing to help each other out.
    Interested in higher grade vintage cards. Aren't we all. image
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