put me in the 72 ddo crowd...as to grade...graded opinions are way too sketchy for me...i'd have to see the coins themselves before i go with grade assigned
show me the coin rather then tell me a grade of note i'll choose strike over luster which can be a money saver to boot as most higher grades are for luster over strike
everything in life is but merely on loan to us by our appreciation....lose your appreciation and see
Need to know a bit more what die are they? The big one's. if so i'll take the 72 more collect that one then the other so more will want it if and when you want to sell.
'72, but I like that '83, too. I've had an MS 66 Red '83 in an NGC holder, and the planchets sucked on almost every one I've owned including an MS 64+ and MS 63 respectively, that I've submitted. Because of the planchet defects, I like the '72 better and the "spread" on the "granddaddy'' is , like Type 2 pointed out, key.
I'd want both in my collection but if I had to choose only one I'd take the 72. More well known and copper and they tend to tone nice and it's on the obv and date. The 83 has the risks of zincs. Time may prove my choice wrong if many of the other nice 83 DDRs get ugly and increases the value of gems.
...I think I'd buy the 83, weigh it and see if I REALLY GOT A DEAL and lucked out with a 95 per cent copper!! if not send it back and get the 72 DD....
"government is not reason, it is not eloquence-it is a force! like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master; never for a moment should it be left to irresponsible action." George Washington
What is the PCGS population of each? I chose the 1983 because they seem more difficult to find. However the double dies with the doubling on the obverse always are more popular among collectors. If I could could find a choice MS66 1983 DDR cent without planchet problems I would chose it. In the longer run I do not think that one will outpace the other in value by very much. Then again, who knows? Time will tell. JMHO.
<< <i>I chose the 72 because its got the classic doubled date and it won't bubble and rust away. >>
My sentiments as well.
I realize we're talking about mint state here but still I can't believe the shape of many of the circulating "zincolns". They just don't have that feeling of permanence that some of the other coin compositions do.
"to you, a hero is some kind of weird sandwich..."
<< <i>I chose the 72 because its got the classic doubled date and it won't bubble and rust away. >>
My sentiments as well.
I realize we're talking about mint state here but still I can't believe the shape of many of the circulating "zincolns". They just don't have that feeling of permanence that some of the other coin compositions do.
"to you, a hero is some kind of weird sandwich..."
I vote for the 1955 DDO (I'm writing in another candidate!) ... anyway it deserves mention here. Doubled dies should be judged on how dramatic the spread is. The one series that is REALLY amazing for doubled dies is shield nickels. The '72 DDO is pretty cool, but the '55 is perhaps even more awesome.
<< <i>Just curious, does anyone have an '83 DDR that does NOT have the bumps? I'd like to see one (never have), but I'll take someone's word. >>
I've seen some with less bumps but never seen one without any bumps. Here was the one I used to have in my set...less bumpy than the new one (pictured in earlier post), but still with bumps.
I don't see the die variety mentioned on most of the TPG holders I've looked at on the Bay. Is there a reason why not? It would help those of us who need to differentiate between the FS-101, 102, 103. I think it's easy enough for me to know the difference between the 101 and the 103, though.
OK, Mercury DG's photos are as good as I've seen. I went to the PCGS site and they had MS67s posted with the zinc bubbles - there are 42 67s and 1 67+. There wasn't a photo of the + coin, but apparently the bumps (isn't there a more accurate term?) are part of the series, and don't reflect in the grading, unless they're reserving the 68 and up grades for a bumpless example, which has yet to surface. I have tried to collect the '72 DDO varieties, but I get confused between some of them if I get them raw, and apparently PCGS only attributes Numero Uno. I have some ANACS slabs that specify the variety, but even then I have some questions. One question I have is why PCGS doesn't attribute more than the one? I have considered whether it's all one doubled die , and the varieties (8 I think) are the result of die wear, strike difference, and maybe other factors I don't know enough about. This makes more sense to me than 8 different DDs for the one year. I can't think of another year where this situation has developed (multiple but similar DDs). I know the'64 Kennedys have a confusing mix of DDs and TDs, but not 8, and not so similar. I acknowledge in all this I may be wrong.
"If someone says 'A penny for your thoughts' and you give them your 2 cents worth, what happens to the extra penny?" G.Carlin
<< <i>I have tried to collect the '72 DDO varieties, but I get confused between some of them if I get them raw, and apparently PCGS only attributes Numero Uno. >>
Browsing eBay, I find PCGS attributed ’72 doubled dies for FS-101, FS-102, FS-103 and FS-107.
<< <i>The 83 will deteriorate. Without question you should go with the 72. >>
I don't necessarily agree with this as a blanket statement...at lower grades, your comment is probably 99% true, but go find a 66 or better or with CAC attribution that is actually "nice"...it took me a long time looking. I passed on at least 3 CAC 66 examples because they were no better (worse actually) than my non-CAC example. I finally found a coin that was better than my 66 and realized after looking at a lot of them (65's and 66's and a few 67's) over a period of time, I can say the one I own is about as nice (of course +/-) as you will get, and the price point is sub $700...cheap in my mind.
If you can get an example in 66 or better, that has nice eye appeal (no blotchy milky spots), I would snatch it up as this is a tough coin in higher grades (66 or better) to find attractive.
BTW...this can probably be said of many coins, so I just probably stated the obvious
Well yes, there they are. I was operating off the information on the PCGS Price Guide which lists simply 1972 DDO, and the slabs for Die 1 don't say Die 1 on them. Is there a price guide for varieties 2-8 that I haven't found? And while I have you overdate, are you saying there's a 1960 Double Date with no MM or anS?
"If someone says 'A penny for your thoughts' and you give them your 2 cents worth, what happens to the extra penny?" G.Carlin
<< <i>Well yes, there they are. I was operating off the information on the PCGS Price Guide which lists simply 1972 DDO, and the slabs for Die 1 don't say Die 1 on them. Is there a price guide for varieties 2-8 that I haven't found? And while I have you overdate, are you saying there's a 1960 Double Date with no MM or anS? >>
My avatar is a 1960-D small over large date cent. There are also proof 1960 Philadelphia small over large date *and* large over small date cents, and they are listed in the PCGS price guide. There are not any known circulation-strike 1960 Philadelphia overdate cents.
It's a tough call. The '72 is better known and has more demand.
Whichever I bought I wouldn't allow the composition to affect the decision. The fact is that no matter how prone to disintegration the zinc is, it will be collected in the fu- ture. The instability of the composition simply assures that few more will ever be found and that the attrition is higher.
If you do buy a zinc try to get one that has no exposed zinc and treat it well.
Comments
<< <i>You need to add a poll question......"Wish I new anything about modern copper."
Except 1983 is not modern copper.
I'd choose the 72 DDO as an investment before the 83 DDR.
<< <i>I'm not crazy about zinc for coins. >>
^^^ this exactly ^^^
put me in the 72 ddo crowd...as to grade...graded opinions are way too sketchy for me...i'd have to see the coins themselves before i go with grade assigned
show me the coin rather then tell me a grade
of note i'll choose strike over luster which can be a money saver to boot as most higher grades are for luster over strike
Hoard the keys.
More well known and copper and they tend to tone nice and it's on the obv and date. The 83 has the risks of zincs.
Time may prove my choice wrong if many of the other nice 83 DDRs get ugly and increases the value of gems.
...I think I'd buy the 83, weigh it and see if I REALLY GOT A DEAL and lucked out with a 95 per cent copper!! if not send it back and get the 72 DD....
Bob
<< <i>I'm not crazy about zinc for coins. >>
exactly why i went with the 72 ddo. jmo (never liked the zinc)
<< <i>I chose the 72 because its got the classic doubled date and it won't bubble and rust away. >>
This is my feeling as well...
Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014
The name is LEE!
<< <i>I chose the 72 because its got the classic doubled date and it won't bubble and rust away. >>
My sentiments as well.
I realize we're talking about mint state here but still I can't believe the shape of many of the circulating "zincolns". They just don't have that feeling of permanence that some of the other coin compositions do.
<< <i>I chose the 72 because its got the classic doubled date and it won't bubble and rust away. >>
My sentiments as well.
I realize we're talking about mint state here but still I can't believe the shape of many of the circulating "zincolns". They just don't have that feeling of permanence that some of the other coin compositions do.
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
Great Collections has 1 - 1972 and 2 - 1983 high grade coins in their auction closing this Sunday. Starting prices seem very reasonable.
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!
Doubled dies should be judged on how dramatic the spread is. The one series that is REALLY amazing for doubled dies is shield nickels.
The '72 DDO is pretty cool, but the '55 is perhaps even more awesome.
Sunnywood
Sunnywood's Rainbow-Toned Morgans (Retired)
Sunnywood's Barber Quarters (Retired)
<< <i>72 DDO because I have fond memories of searching for one when I was a kid. >>
<< <i>Just curious, does anyone have an '83 DDR that does NOT have the bumps? I'd like to see one (never have), but I'll take someone's word. >>
I've seen some with less bumps but never seen one without any bumps. Here was the one I used to have in my set...less bumpy than the new one (pictured in earlier post), but still with bumps.
BTW, those are beauties, Mercurydimeguy!
Bob
Vietnam Vet 1968-1969
<< <i>I chose the 72 because its got the classic doubled date and it won't bubble and rust away. >>
This.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Neither one, I would opt for the much scarcer proof Philadelphia version of my avatar.
My Adolph A. Weinman signature

<< <i>I have tried to collect the '72 DDO varieties, but I get confused between some of them if I get them raw, and apparently PCGS only attributes Numero Uno. >>
Browsing eBay, I find PCGS attributed ’72 doubled dies for FS-101, FS-102, FS-103 and FS-107.
My Adolph A. Weinman signature

<< <i>The 83 will deteriorate. Without question you should go with the 72. >>
I don't necessarily agree with this as a blanket statement...at lower grades, your comment is probably 99% true, but go find a 66 or better or with CAC attribution that is actually "nice"...it took me a long time looking. I passed on at least 3 CAC 66 examples because they were no better (worse actually) than my non-CAC example. I finally found a coin that was better than my 66 and realized after looking at a lot of them (65's and 66's and a few 67's) over a period of time, I can say the one I own is about as nice (of course +/-) as you will get, and the price point is sub $700...cheap in my mind.
If you can get an example in 66 or better, that has nice eye appeal (no blotchy milky spots), I would snatch it up as this is a tough coin in higher grades (66 or better) to find attractive.
BTW...this can probably be said of many coins, so I just probably stated the obvious
<< <i>Well yes, there they are. I was operating off the information on the PCGS Price Guide which lists simply 1972 DDO, and the slabs for Die 1 don't say Die 1 on them. Is there a price guide for varieties 2-8 that I haven't found? And while I have you overdate, are you saying there's a 1960 Double Date with no MM or anS? >>
My avatar is a 1960-D small over large date cent. There are also proof 1960 Philadelphia small over large date *and* large over small date cents, and they are listed in the PCGS price guide. There are not any known circulation-strike 1960 Philadelphia overdate cents.
My Adolph A. Weinman signature

<< <i>I voted 83DDR since I already have the 72/72 in 65RD >>
same here, but the opposite
BHNC #203
Whichever I bought I wouldn't allow the composition to affect the decision. The fact
is that no matter how prone to disintegration the zinc is, it will be collected in the fu-
ture. The instability of the composition simply assures that few more will ever be found
and that the attrition is higher.
If you do buy a zinc try to get one that has no exposed zinc and treat it well.
Sorry for double triple whatever posts
I would go with the 72 DDO
Nice doubled coin, stable composition, and really cool
<< <i>I've decided to get one of each. >>
WAK! I just read this.
Classic numismatists' solution.
Here's a warning parable for coin collectors...
<< <i>The 72 goes nicer with the 55. >>
Ha! That was my very thinking when I got my pair ('55 and '72).
Rampage, thanks for letting us know. I was circling back to the thread to ask that very question to you.
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment