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Bust quarter GTG and dilemma UPDATED: Grades posted

scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭✭✭
So, I have two bust quarters in old NGC holders, circa 2001 or so. They are very nice, but the only two in my collection not in PCGS plastic, and I'd like to see them in edge views.

I bought the super duper platinum PCGS membership earlier this year not realizing I had to submit the 8 coins all at once, so these would round out my submission, as I only have 6 raw candidates. I'd have to crack these to send 'em. Should I do it? Any value to having these in old NGC plastic vs new PCGS? And, will they downgrade or upgrade?

Guess the NGC grades below. I will post the actual grades soon. Any scratches you see are on the holder.

Thanks for any advice!

Here they are:

image
image
image
image

Comments

  • kazkaz Posts: 9,331 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Those are 2 beautiful coins that I would be proud to own! Personally, if they are in the old "fatty" holders I would leave them be because I like the minimalist look. I do not know the series at all but would guess VF something for both. Terrific busted die on the 1819, I've never seen that before.
  • QuarternutQuarternut Posts: 1,481 ✭✭✭
    1824 B-1 - VF-35 Nice & desireable circulated example image


    1819 B-4 - VF-20 (Love the later die stage...image)


    Would certainly be worth putting in PCGS plastic as far as resale value goes, other than that...I like'em naked and raw!


    QN

    Go to Early United States Coins - to order the New "Early United States Half Dollar Vol. 1 / 1794-1807" book or the 1st new Bust Quarter book!

  • VanHalenVanHalen Posts: 4,330 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1824: VF25

    1819: F15

    Both are nice examples that should not downgrade at PCGS.
  • DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice coins.....crack and send.
  • STONESTONE Posts: 15,275
    If you want to see the edges of the coin just crack them out and make them raw...the edge-view still blocks 40% of the edges!

    Moving them from NGC to PCGS plastic doesn't make much difference...the coins will ultimately speak for themselves!
  • BoosibriBoosibri Posts: 12,641 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Both are somewhere in the low VF range IMO. I'd leave them in the old fatty NGC holders. While common coins, the old holder adds to the appeal where a new holder is just status quo.
  • BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,523 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The coins don't change whether in NGC, PCGS, or raw. They'll always be nice
  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Common coins! Spoken like a gold collector image

  • BoosibriBoosibri Posts: 12,641 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Common coins! Spoken like a gold collector image >>



    Sorry...poor choice of words. They are nice!
  • BochimanBochiman Posts: 25,769 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What's your tolerance level if you crack them and they are GEN or come back lower than they are now (assuming you agree with current grades)?
    What cost are you willing to accept to try to get them into plastic again, at the right grade?

    I ask because I have been in your shoes and played the game. I have won. I have lost. I go into it with a mindset of "I will submit this only 1x, 2x, 3x, etc"
    Value of the coin raw vs at a certain (what I believe correct) grade helps me determine that number.

    Now, in many series, there IS value in having in older NGC plastic than newer PCGS (or NGC) plastic......
    coin has been stable x # of years, coin was graded when grades may have been considered conservative, etc etc etc.

    If you submit raw, they can either downgrade, remain the same, upgrade, or flat out GEN for whatever reason they may notice.

    You could, if you wanted, find 2 other coins (SAEs/something...though it is a waste anyway...for the most part) to fill the order and then send these 2 in on a new order (share shipping cost on the way there) and do them as crossovers. Safer, may not result with what you want since they are more cautious).

    You could also see if anyone wants to fill the 2 slots for you and help with postage for the privilege......and then to do your 2 on a separate order if so desired....

    I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment

  • BochimanBochiman Posts: 25,769 ✭✭✭✭✭
    (edited as system double-posted hiccupped)

    I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment

  • 410a410a Posts: 1,325
    1824 ------ VF30

    1819 -------F 12

    Nice coins and they should be cracked out. I'd really like to see the results from PCGS too. image
  • halfhunterhalfhunter Posts: 2,770 ✭✭✭
    #1 - 35
    #2 - 30

    HH
    Need the following OBW rolls to complete my 46-64 Roosevelt roll set:
    1947-P & D; 1948-D; 1949-P & S; 1950-D & S; and 1952-S.
    Any help locating any of these OBW rolls would be gratefully appreciated!
  • amwldcoinamwldcoin Posts: 11,269 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1824 VF-30
    1819 VF-20
  • sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,061 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice coins.

    Why not give the PCGS quarterly special a try? That way you won't have to crack them out.

    "If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

    My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So here are the results:

    image

    Quarternut and Halfhunter nailed the 1824, but only 410a got the 1819 grade.

    However, the 1819 grade is almost certainly wrong. I see it at least as F15 and probably VF20. The 1824 is trickier. VF35 seems fair, but I could see both VF30 and even XF40 (there's more luster than the pics show, plus it's my coin so there's a bonus)

    Thanks for the comments. I think I'll crack, pray for no edge issues, and submit them along with the other hopefuls.
  • BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Lovely coins, should be no problem cracking and getting at least the same grades from PCGS, if not higher if someone in the room recognizes strike characteristics and die states.

    I like all my bust quarters raw as you know, but then again I collect two or three levels down from you in grades like VG and Fine details net good, because I want to study the coins naked.
    (that is, the coins are naked, not that I'm naked while studying them)

    it's wonderful to be able to handle these pieces of history, and I actually prefer coins with some additional cash transactions in their history, which is good because it helps find the rarer B #s in the wild

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 24,235 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I would leave them as they are

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • DaveWcoinsDaveWcoins Posts: 1,185 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I would leave them as they are >>



    +1
    Dave Wnuck. Redbook contributor; long time PNG Member; listed on the PCGS Board of Experts. PM me with your email address to receive my e-newsletter, and visit DaveWcoins.com Find me on eBay at davewcoins
  • BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I would leave them as they are >>



    +1 >>



    you wouldn't send them in for STICKERS?

    imageimage

    Stickers are a FORCE to be reckoned with image

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

  • This content has been removed.
  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Here is a picture of the slab reverse. I'm curious what's there that points to the age of the slab?

    I've decided to crack out the 1819 and submit it. I'm still on the fence on the 1824 though.

    image

  • AMRCAMRC Posts: 4,280 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Doing so to fill 2 holes in a submission requirement is not a good thing to do. This is a trap for most people. They buy the 8 coin package and then scramble to fill it with 8 coins. Almost never ends good. Either wait until you have two more coins to grade or just send in the 6 and write off the other two. But to break those nice coins out of NGC holders is just asking for trouble. If you want to cross those send them on a separate invoice to cross those two. But to crack what are nice coins out of an NGC holder just to make an 8 coin requirement is not good advice.

    MLAeBayNumismatics: "The greatest hobby in the world!"
  • VanHalenVanHalen Posts: 4,330 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Here is a picture of the slab reverse. I'm curious what's there that points to the age of the slab?

    I've decided to crack out the 1819 and submit it. I'm still on the fence on the 1824 though.

    >>



    Sounds good. The 1824 looks overgraded to me at 35. Maybe it came off very tired dies but I can't see it grading that high at PCGS.

    The 1819 is conservatively graded and I'd guess PCGS puts it at F15 and you might get lucky and pull a 20.

    image
  • NapNap Posts: 1,769 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Leave those coins as is.

    Get yourself 2 new raw coins to fill the submission.
  • StuartStuart Posts: 9,831 ✭✭✭✭✭
    << Leave those coins as is. -- Get yourself 2 new raw coins to fill the submission. >>>

    image

    Stuart

    Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal

    "Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
  • In the end I prefer PCGS holder for the 1824/2. Don't crack it out of the old NGC holder, but submit to obtain a new NGC holder and then finally cross to the new PCGS holder. It might end up VF-35 but possibly VF-30, difficult to tell by picture alone. How 's the rims?

    Leave the 1819 alone.
    Persuing choice countermarked coinage on 2 reales.

    Enjoyed numismatic conversations with Eric P. Newman, Dave Akers, Jules Reiver, David Davis, Russ Logan, John McCloskey, Kirk Gorman, W. David Perkins...
  • thisnamztakenthisnamztaken Posts: 4,101 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>1824 VF-30
    1819 VF-20 >>



    That's what I figure also.
    I never thought that growing old would happen so fast.
    - Jim
  • msch1manmsch1man Posts: 809 ✭✭✭✭
    Not sure about the logistics on submitting them (I've never submitted coins myself), but I totally get wanting them all in the same consistent holder...especially if it's the only 2 coins that are different.

    Both nice coins, but I really love the 1819! All those die cracks through the date are super cool. I hope to pick up a later die stage example like this someday. If you do re-submit it, I wouldn't be surprised if it got a bump in grade as well.
  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I figured I'd bump this thread again. I received these back from PCGS a little while ago.

    RESULTS:
    1824 B-1 PCGS VF30
    image
    image

    1819 B-4 PCGS F15
    image
    image

    So the 1824 dropped 5 points and the 1819 went up 5. I can live with that.

    Plus this one snuck into the same submission…So a very successful grading, IMO.
    image
    image

  • VanHalenVanHalen Posts: 4,330 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>So the 1824 dropped 5 points and the 1819 went up 5. I can live with that. >>



    Didn't the 1819 go up 3?

    Anyway - I like your results. They do look better in PCGS plastic.

    image

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