<< <i>That is one big shot of my coin, does the clashed die obverse and reverse add any value? >>
Clashed dies like the one on the OP's new coin are not that uncommon, so no extra value, just extra character! Some of the bold triple clashed dies may add some value, and definitely the off center reversed clashed die like the 1880 S-1 adds a lot of extra value like this one from my personal collection:
<< <i>Never trust a blue toned copper coin to cross. Many chemicals can be used to create the blue toning. >>
Not necessarily true. This one crossed at PF67BN:
OINK >>
I believe he said "don't trust it to" and not that it never will. Some times they let them in others not but it really is coin by coin. Also proofs tone differently and yours is very nice. If I had to guess I would say the OP would not cross but mainly for the magenta halos coupled with the blue.
It did not cross at PF67RB. In my experience, I have had more luck getting IHC proofs that are blue to straight than I have red, or red brown. The blue seems more believable as a BN coin than red is believable as a RD coin. I think 90% of my RD IHC PF submittals come back code .91, questionable color. Therefore, I have come to love blue toners. I've got nice red one too, but the TPG's seem way more concerned with red tha they are with blue.
Edited to add it did not cross at PF67, maybe would have at <67, but I like the 67* and do not feel compelled to have it in PCGS holder. My pic which is not the best. Was hoping for a TrueView with the cross. The Heritage auction pic had comic book quality. I bought it for the plastic and was pleasantly surprised.
Comments
<< <i>That is one big shot of my coin, does the clashed die obverse and reverse add any value? >>
Only to the die hards!
<< <i>That is one big shot of my coin, does the clashed die obverse and reverse add any value? >>
Clashed dies like the one on the OP's new coin are not that uncommon, so no extra value, just extra character! Some of the bold triple clashed dies may add some value, and definitely the off center reversed clashed die like the 1880 S-1 adds a lot of extra value like this one from my personal collection:
https://thepennylady.com/
<< <i>Never trust a blue toned copper coin to cross. Many chemicals can be used to create the blue toning. >>
Not necessarily true. This one crossed at PF67BN:
OINK
<< <i>
<< <i>Never trust a blue toned copper coin to cross. Many chemicals can be used to create the blue toning. >>
Not necessarily true. This one crossed at PF67BN:
OINK >>
I believe he said "don't trust it to" and not that it never will. Some times they let them in others not but it really is coin by coin. Also proofs tone differently and yours is very nice. If I had to guess I would say the OP would not cross but mainly for the magenta halos coupled with the blue.
This coin is a NGC PF67* :
It did not cross at PF67RB. In my experience, I have had more luck getting IHC proofs that are blue to straight than I have red, or red brown. The blue seems more believable as a BN coin than red is believable as a RD coin. I think 90% of my RD IHC PF submittals come back code .91, questionable color. Therefore, I have come to love blue toners. I've got nice red one too, but the TPG's seem way more concerned with red tha they are with blue.
Edited to add it did not cross at PF67, maybe would have at <67, but I like the 67* and do not feel compelled to have it in PCGS holder. My pic which is not the best. Was hoping for a TrueView with the cross. The Heritage auction pic had comic book quality. I bought it for the plastic and was pleasantly surprised.
OINK