20k In Pm's for the long term
oilstates2003
Posts: 493
A friend has the opportunity to drop 20K into PM's. Looking for suggestion of a good break down . Example silver eagle monster box , couple $100 bags of junk silver, 1/4oz gold eagles? What and where would you buy from?
Thanks Oilstates2003
Thanks Oilstates2003
It's not the amount of money you spend.... It's the enjoyment you get spending it..
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Tom
My 2nd choice would be 1/10 oz AGES for more less the same reasons. Stay away from anything collectible. Collectible doesn't help you more often that not if you're in a pinch and need quick cash.
I know this is for long term holding, but it also works for shtf scenarios as well imo.
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<< <i>silver eagles would be my advice and it looks like JM has the best price. One consideration with silver is that it requires a secure storage space and 500 ounces of silver is really too much for a safe deposit box. If depending on a SDB for storage then gold eagles ($10 quarter ouncers) are the way to go. I also agree that silver will most likely go down in the short term, so watch prices to get the most bang for the buck. >>
1500 oz fits in an SDB problem free, just don't expect the teller to pull it out for you.
<< <i>
<< <i>silver eagles would be my advice and it looks like JM has the best price. One consideration with silver is that it requires a secure storage space and 500 ounces of silver is really too much for a safe deposit box. If depending on a SDB for storage then gold eagles ($10 quarter ouncers) are the way to go. I also agree that silver will most likely go down in the short term, so watch prices to get the most bang for the buck. >>
1500 oz fits in an SDB problem free, just don't expect the teller to pull it out for you. >>
good luck with approx. 150 lbs. in any SDB., regardless of whether it will fit.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
<< <i>I like 90 percent silver in 100 dollar face bags with some ASE's thrown in for good measure. As Bajjerfan stated I would try to locate the best price possible. I am not a fan of paying premimuns for graded bullion. I would rather have more silver and gold. I have a lot of 2 and 2 1/2 peso gold but would look more toward 1/10, 1/4, 1/2 or 1 ounce as the math is easier. Unless silver moves a lot this year I plan on buying at least 1 or 2 bags of 100 dollar 90 percent silver every month this year. I made 24 cents last month on a 5k CD at the bank. lol >>
It seems to me that $100 face bags have a bit of the same issue as 1 ounce of gold in that it prices many buyers out of the market due to cost and in spite of the extra premium, it is often recommended to buy quarter ounce eagles instead of 1 ouncers. At least a tube of ASEs is somewhat comparable to a quarter ounce of gold.
Anyone know if 90% is insurable thru the USPS?
Knowledge is the enemy of fear
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<< <i>All 90%. Maybe not the easiest to store, but the easiest to get rid of in the event of an emergency and because it is the most familiar to people who don't do what we do in the event you needed to trade with someone like that.
My 2nd choice would be 1/10 oz AGES for more less the same reasons. Stay away from anything collectible. Collectible doesn't help you more often that not if you're in a pinch and need quick cash.
I know this is for long term holding, but it also works for shtf scenarios as well imo. >>
I agree with staying away from anything "collectible" but I'd go the other direction on the junk silver in terms of SHTF. "The Masses" don't know that pre-64 coins were 90% silver. However, an ASE says "1 oz fine silver" right on it. Crystal clear even to a lay-person.
But then again.......junk silver is less faked than ASEs. But that shouldn't be a problem for your friend since he'll probably be buying from a reputable dealer.
<< <i>
<< <i>All 90%. Maybe not the easiest to store, but the easiest to get rid of in the event of an emergency and because it is the most familiar to people who don't do what we do in the event you needed to trade with someone like that.
My 2nd choice would be 1/10 oz AGES for more less the same reasons. Stay away from anything collectible. Collectible doesn't help you more often that not if you're in a pinch and need quick cash.
I know this is for long term holding, but it also works for shtf scenarios as well imo. >>
I agree with staying away from anything "collectible" but I'd go the other direction on the junk silver in terms of SHTF. "The Masses" don't know that pre-64 coins were 90% silver. However, an ASE says "1 oz fine silver" right on it. Crystal clear even to a lay-person.
But then again.......junk silver is less faked than ASEs. But that shouldn't be a problem for your friend since he'll probably be buying from a reputable dealer. >>
At least with dimes, kerters and halves 90% junk silver is better suited for business/commerce than ASEs.
Seems like the best price going right now.Unless someone knows better deals going on.
Thanks Oilstates2003
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$500 90% = $7500
That's $21,000 or a little more depending on shipping and market swing. Adjust accordingly.
--Severian the Lame
I'm trying to understand why some are suggesting to buy 1/4 oz age's. If you are trying to pay the least amount of premium and you are hell bent on it being gold, and on an AGE, wouldn't buying 1 oz'ers be the better buy, especially if it is a long term holding?
What is the attraction from a long term hold point of view to buy the 1/4 oz vs. the 1 oz? I'm not being a smart arse, I'm honestly trying to understand the thinking behind it for this particular question proposed by the OP. Help me understand because I need to know It's in my nature to do so.
<< <i>Can someone 'splain something to me?
I'm trying to understand why some are suggesting to buy 1/4 oz age's. If you are trying to pay the least amount of premium and you are hell bent on it being gold, and on an AGE, wouldn't buying 1 oz'ers be the better buy, especially if it is a long term holding?
What is the attraction from a long term hold point of view to buy the 1/4 oz vs. the 1 oz? I'm not being a smart arse, I'm honestly trying to understand the thinking behind it for this particular question proposed by the OP. Help me understand because I need to know It's in my nature to do so. >>
If you're buying gold eagles for an investment, then you are planning on gold going up. If you are planning on gold going up you want to be selling something that more people can afford. Say gold doubles in price and you decide to sell. It will be a lot easier to sell an $800 coin than it would be to sell a $3000 coin. I suggest quarter ouncers over tenth ouncers because of the premium issue. Same theory as buying 10 oz. silver bars (or one oz bars for more premium) instead of 100 oz. silver bars. All bullion purchases should include a consideration of future buyer demand of the specific product. Same applies to counterfeiting, the easier/more likely to counterfeit the harder to later find buyers. This is why American Eagles are recommended by many over Chinese Pandas and other products that carry a lower premium.
<< <i>Jm Bullion has the best prices at $100 90% Silver Bag 1572.00 = 6.84% over spot and 500 oz. Silver Eagle Monster Box for 11,560 = 12.34% over spot. These are delivered prices. Also thought i read on here awhile back that MCM will match and beat prices? >>
Keep an eye on dbscoins.com, reputable and competitive at times.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
<< <i>
Keep an eye on dbscoins.com, reputable and competitive at times. >>
Conspiracy - derryb, dbs coins, same dude, ha!
<< <i>
<< <i>
Keep an eye on dbscoins.com, reputable and competitive at times. >>
Conspiracy - derryb, dbs coins, same dude, ha! >>
Good one. Actually his name is David, I always call him before placing an order to confirm he has item on hand. Great service, highly recommend.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
<< <i>Can someone 'splain something to me?
I'm trying to understand why some are suggesting to buy 1/4 oz age's. If you are trying to pay the least amount of premium and you are hell bent on it being gold, and on an AGE, wouldn't buying 1 oz'ers be the better buy, especially if it is a long term holding?
What is the attraction from a long term hold point of view to buy the 1/4 oz vs. the 1 oz? I'm not being a smart arse, I'm honestly trying to understand the thinking behind it for this particular question proposed by the OP. Help me understand because I need to know It's in my nature to do so. >>
i propose its a $1 bill mentality, reason being there are significantly more $100 bills in value than any other note... buy 1oz or more...
<< <i>
<< <i>Can someone 'splain something to me?
I'm trying to understand why some are suggesting to buy 1/4 oz age's. If you are trying to pay the least amount of premium and you are hell bent on it being gold, and on an AGE, wouldn't buying 1 oz'ers be the better buy, especially if it is a long term holding?
What is the attraction from a long term hold point of view to buy the 1/4 oz vs. the 1 oz? I'm not being a smart arse, I'm honestly trying to understand the thinking behind it for this particular question proposed by the OP. Help me understand because I need to know It's in my nature to do so. >>
i propose its a $1 bill mentality, reason being there are significantly more $100 bills in value than any other note... buy 1oz or more... >>
More people are willing to conduct a transaction involving your $1 bill than are willing to accept your $100 bill. Thanks, a good example of why smaller is better when making an exchange.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
I knew it would happen.
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>
Keep an eye on dbscoins.com, reputable and competitive at times. >>
Conspiracy - derryb, dbs coins, same dude, ha! >>
Good one. Actually his name is David, I always call him before placing an order to confirm he has item on hand. Great service, highly recommend. >>
That d b softball was just sitting there for a swing, ha! You know I'm just bustin chops
ok, thanks for the thoughts guys but I now have a comment based on those reasons why a 1/4 should be purchased instead of a 1 oz'er in this long term example (question) asked by the OP.
One should not talk about avoiding premiums in the same breath when recommending buying the smaller coin. Fair statement? Because, you are paying a bigger premium of the 1/4's are purchased over the 1 oz piece.
I can think of a reason to buy fractionals . you can walk into a coin store and sell them and get paid cash . Usually you have to take a check for a 1 oz coin.
Remember a few years ago there was a lot of talk about transactions over $600 causing a form to be filed? If that limit kicks in at some point a quarter ounce might be right at $600 better be safe and get tenths
Either way, you always should try to sell when you aren't backed into a corner. Always try to negotiate from a position of strength. Of course, if gold jumps from $1300 to $2000 in a few short weeks, you'll feel like you can do no wrong and you might be willing to make a quick sale at $1800, but that would be a tactical error.
I knew it would happen.
<< <i>There is a case to be made for both large and small denominations (or chunks of value, as it were). There are instances when one becomes more convenient than the other, and vice versa. Liquidity is important, but there are also times when it's more advantageous to sell 1 big item instead of bringing 100 small items into the shop.
Either way, you always should try to sell when you aren't backed into a corner. Always try to negotiate from a position of strength. Of course, if gold jumps from $1300 to $2000 in a few short weeks, you'll feel like you can do no wrong and you might be willing to make a quick sale at $1800, but that would be a tactical error. >>
After seeing how BM's like to hammer people that walk in with 1 oz bullion I don't see any reason to get involved in that.
"well $80 back of melt is the best I can do, no one is buying ounces now" "I could do better if it was an eagle , nobody buys krugs anymore" " this maple is all dinged up , .999 gold is too soft it shows every mark " " MS69's are no better than raw" blah blah blah
You can put ten tenth ounce BIN listings on ebay and sell them in an hour . Ten 1 oz listings might sell in an hour too but I would be nervous trusting paypal for that amount.
Plus if I need to sell 10 ounces in one day I'm doing something wrong anyway
I told him he's starting to sound like my ex wife.
$13,000 in gold. I would buy 5, 10, 20 Libs. XF or slabbed "details."
<< <i>My accountant wonders why I do what I do.
I told him he's starting to sound like my ex wife. >>
Ex-wives and their lawyers are another reason to only sell for cash. In fact tenth ounces could be a good exit strategy in the event a marriage goes south.
Bug out bags aren't just for the apocalypse
My question for the friend would be...is this purely an investment, is it a bit of the SHTF, is it something that he/she would like to do quietly/privately and what are the storage plans?
-If it was purely investment and no worry about storage, liquidity or privacy...I'd do about 5 oz in gold one ounce Eagles and the rest in 10 and 100 oz bars to get a mix I like.
-If storage is more of an issue, then I'd do 10 oz in 1 oz gold and the rest in silver, but sticking to the biggest bars that fill the balance. I also might lean more to silver eagles rolls instead of bars for uniformity sake (like going into a storage box easily).
-If I wanted to buy/sell in smaller amounts then I'd go up the premium chain for the gold more, and personally I like the 1/10 ounce rolls. They are unobtrusive and tuck into small spaces, and hopefully will recoup the premium on the sell side. The silver would then be 10 ounce bars and/or silver eagle rolls.
-Heck if all you wanted was something small, portable and easily hidden, go all into the 1/10 ers and no silver. Though...if you are taking a few ounces through airport security, they look funny in a roll or tube on an x-ray...but look like dimes in a wallet. Just sayin'.
-If this is a SHTF type of guy, then I'd go all 90%. No one needs to think you have ANY gold....
-If he wants to have fun and feed a collector gene, then collect numismatic gold, slabbed bullion etc. I have the first Aussie lunar series slabbed and I pretend it's bullion, but we all know it's for the collector. That will not necessarily be the most efficient use of his money but he can have fun at the same time.
Personally, I like having a little of everything including 90%, but I find the 90% the most irritating in terms of keeping in rolls and stacking etc. Others I'm sure have different opinions .
Just my own multiple opinions for the the guy who already said thank you....
There are several times that I've sold 10 oz in one day, but I wasn't in a position where I had to sell. There is a difference. Forward planning is your friend.
I knew it would happen.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
I am one, and will gladly do my best to reduce your irritation level.
I don't see big problems selling full ounce coins, there will always be a smelter or an "Apmex" willing to buy.
If gold skyrocket, you can afford to sell a little under spot too, which is always appealing.
With $20K you will have more than 1 extra ounce if buying full ounce coins against the tenth ozers.
My numbers say 14.44 oz against 13.33.
I'd take the chance.
>
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<< <i>I would definitely make sure to price www.goldmart.com. >>
IIRC they had delivery issues awhile back, really slow.
<< <i>I will go all in Gold.
I don't see big problems selling full ounce coins, there will always be a smelter or an "Apmex" willing to buy.
If gold skyrocket, you can afford to sell a little under spot too, which is always appealing.
With $20K you will have more than 1 extra ounce if buying full ounce coins against the tenth ozers.
My numbers say 14.44 oz against 13.33.
I'd take the chance. >>
If you fall into the trap of paying premiums.
Knowledge is the enemy of fear
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
That is why they invented canvas.
I knew it would happen.
<< <i>
<< <i>I will go all in Gold.
I don't see big problems selling full ounce coins, there will always be a smelter or an "Apmex" willing to buy.
If gold skyrocket, you can afford to sell a little under spot too, which is always appealing.
With $20K you will have more than 1 extra ounce if buying full ounce coins against the tenth ozers.
My numbers say 14.44 oz against 13.33.
I'd take the chance. >>
If you fall into the trap of paying premiums. >>
I have never seen 1/10 AGE at melt. For sure not $20K of them...
<< <i>In my ten years of buying/selling gold eagles I have always recovered my premium over spot. In the last few years premiums have increased for both the buyer and the seller. I do not let premiums affect my purchasing as long as they are the "going" rate. >>
Even a generic gold bar sells for a + premium to spot, so the premium you are referring to should really be the premium over the cheapest readily available pure gold bar of equivalent net weight of gold.
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>I will go all in Gold.
I don't see big problems selling full ounce coins, there will always be a smelter or an "Apmex" willing to buy.
If gold skyrocket, you can afford to sell a little under spot too, which is always appealing.
With $20K you will have more than 1 extra ounce if buying full ounce coins against the tenth ozers.
My numbers say 14.44 oz against 13.33.
I'd take the chance. >>
If you fall into the trap of paying premiums. >>
I have never seen 1/10 AGE at melt. For sure not $20K of them... >>
What is the point of paying any premium?
If you have 10,000 to spend at APMEX on gold , buy mexican 10 peso coins for 337.56 each then turn around and sell them back to APMEX instantly and you will lose $458
Now buy random date 1/4 ounce AGE's for 371.69 each then turn around and sell them back to APMEX instantly and you will lose $486
I don't see the advantage in dollars and with the peso's you have almost a half ounce more gold in your pocket.