Did I pay too much for BVG 10 1978 OPC Fisk?
doog71
Posts: 405 ✭✭
Hi all - I think I probably did but I couldn't find any reference points for completed auctions, except for same card in PSA 10 but I don't think those are equivalent.
If I knew how to link to it I would, but it's a 1978 O-Pee-Chee BVG 10 (Pristine) Carlton Fisk. I paid $96.
If I overpaid I'm fine with it because I love the set and Fisk, but just wanted to see if anyone had an opinion. Thanks.
If I knew how to link to it I would, but it's a 1978 O-Pee-Chee BVG 10 (Pristine) Carlton Fisk. I paid $96.
If I overpaid I'm fine with it because I love the set and Fisk, but just wanted to see if anyone had an opinion. Thanks.
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Comments
<< <i>You got a great deal. BVG 10's are very rare. >>
Thank you. Are they more rare than a PSA 10 1978 OPC would be?
If you're happy with the card and comfortable with what you paid, that's all that matters.
Nice looking card
I like it
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Is it just a glare?
Does a vintage card like that pretty much have to be sheet cut to get that kind of grade?
<< <i>Thank you for the replies! I don't have the card in hand yet so I'm not sure about the white spot but it looks like glare.
Does a vintage card like that pretty much have to be sheet cut to get that kind of grade? >>
Sharp card but almost certainly sheet cut and as such wouldi likely not cross or grade with PSA.
I've opened a ton of 78 opc wax and have never seen edges that smooth all the way around.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
here's a PSA 10 OPC 78 Fisk that I suppose we can assume, since PSA does not grade sheet cuts, is not sheet cut:
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left side of the psa 10 is a little rougher than the BVG you have. But, BVG puts cards in sleeves so it makes it a little tougher to see the edge of the pristine BVG.
My theory: collect and buy what you want, from whatever grader. As long as you enjoy it, that's all that matters. The BVG Fisk is a great looking card IMO.
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<< <i>I read above that PSA doesn't grade sheet cut cards but my question is how do they know a card is sheet cut if it's measurements are correct? >>
I joked around about PSA not grading sheet cuts but then grading mine. But mine that I slipped by was a Darryl Strawberry 1984 Topps. Cut from a sheet, the old sheets you could send off for it was like a wax pack offer or something. Pic of it in my showcase on the registry site. Easier to slip a card like that by than OPC's. I think anyway. I could use 2 Scott Stevens rookies I have as examples. The PSA 9 is your basic OPC card. You can just tell. I have a KSA 10. Bought it knowing I was 99% sure it was a sheet cut and not caring. No intention of trying to get it to cross to PSA. They would pick it out in a heartbeat regardless of measurements being correct or anything. They have tells also. At least in my experience. But that's why I say buy what you want, what makes a collector happy. Sheet cut or not. Different grader than PSA or not.
<< <i>The appearance to the cut produced by Topps' cutting process differs from what you would see from a straight razor or laser cut. I haven't done this myself, but am told if you cut/trip a Topps common and compare it a factory cut, it's not overly difficult to notice the differences. >>
This is correct. It's actually fairly apparent when you hold the cards side by side.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>Thanks for responding to my sheet cut question. I am wondering now why PSA will not grade sheet cuts? It's not like they are counterfeit. Are they considered a lesser card if they are sheet cut? Thanks again! >>
Not counterfeit but as a collector I would equate a sheet cut card as just marginally better than a trimmed card. When you are talking about vintage cards, part of the reason a large number of them have the value they do is because they are so hard to find in mint condition due to the primitive production methods employed by Topps and OPC during this era. If you are afforded the benefit of modern technology to cut said card, you have a huge advantage that someone pulling cards out of a pack would never have. Low pop cards from certain issues command the huge premiums they do because due to their placement on the sheet and the equipment used to cut the cards, and because of that, finding a hig grade example is exceedingly difficult. If you are going to cut a card from a sheet in 2014, you are obviously going to cut it as perfectly as you can to artificially enhance its value. For me at least, I consider as authentic only those cards which come from a source that was used by the factory, i.e. cards packaged in wax, cello, rack or vending boxes. If anything, a sheet cut card should bear the designation "Hand Cut" or "Shhet Cut" on the flip if you're going to grade it at all, but obviously the value of said card is going to be much lower in that case, a fact that sheet cutters are acutely aware of, of course.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>As long as the measurements are the same, it doesn't matter to me if a card is sheet cut or not. A beautiful card is a beautiful card. >>
That would be great if all cards were created equal, but all PSA 9s and 10s for a particular year/issue are not created (or valued) equally, either. There's a reason why there's never been a PSA 10 1978 Topps Nolan Ryan card, and why if it were to surface it would probably command 20K, so I certainly wouldn't want to see the first one come from a sheet cut in someone's basement using the Pro2000 laser cutter.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>
<< <i>As long as the measurements are the same, it doesn't matter to me if a card is sheet cut or not. A beautiful card is a beautiful card. >>
That would be great if all cards were created equal, but all PSA 9s and 10s for a particular year/issue are not created (or valued) equally, either. There's a reason why there's never been a PSA 10 1978 Topps Nolan Ryan card, and why if it were to surface it would probably command 20K, so I certainly wouldn't want to see the first one come from a sheet cut in someone's basement using the Pro2000 laser cutter. >>
Couldn't prove it though. Grading is subjective. Look at all the fake and trimmed cards that got past psa. Why would it matter if the same original card got cut in a factory, or in someone's home? Makes no difference.
<< <i>As long as the measurements are the same, it doesn't matter to me if a card is sheet cut or not. A beautiful card is a beautiful card. >>
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>As long as the measurements are the same, it doesn't matter to me if a card is sheet cut or not. A beautiful card is a beautiful card. >>
That would be great if all cards were created equal, but all PSA 9s and 10s for a particular year/issue are not created (or valued) equally, either. There's a reason why there's never been a PSA 10 1978 Topps Nolan Ryan card, and why if it were to surface it would probably command 20K, so I certainly wouldn't want to see the first one come from a sheet cut in someone's basement using the Pro2000 laser cutter. >>
Couldn't prove it though. Grading is subjective. Look at all the fake and trimmed cards that got past psa. Why would it matter if the same original card got cut in a factory, or in someone's home? Makes no difference. >>
Can you provide any evidence of fake cards that got past PSA?
I have no issue with grading sheet cut cards if they are labeled as such on the flip. And since there are some collectors who don't seem to mind that, that shouldn't be an issue then, either.
But don't pretend that a sheet cut card is the equivalent of a card cut 35 years ago in the factory, because it's not.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>Can you provide any evidence of fake cards that got past PSA? >>
Best not to be discussed openly on the forum. Examples coming via PM.
<< <i>There's a reason why there's never been a PSA 10 1978 Topps Nolan Ryan card, and why if it were to surface it would probably command 20K, so I certainly wouldn't want to see the first one come from a sheet cut in someone's basement using the Pro2000 laser cutter. >>
People using a laser cutter to trim cards is an urban legend.
<< <i>
<< <i>There's a reason why there's never been a PSA 10 1978 Topps Nolan Ryan card, and why if it were to surface it would probably command 20K, so I certainly wouldn't want to see the first one come from a sheet cut in someone's basement using the Pro2000 laser cutter. >>
People using a laser cutter to trim cards is an urban legend. >>
I'd like to think so..
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>Can you provide any evidence of fake cards that got past PSA? >>
Some years ago I got a PSA 9 1985 Topps Mark McGwire (older slab) that didn't look right. I sent it back to PSA, they agreed that it was a fake and bought it back.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>People using a laser cutter to trim cards is an urban legend. >>
+1
I would be alright with sheet cut cards being slabbed and labeled "Sheet Cut", "Paper Cut-Out" or "Reprint".
A sheet cut card is a reprint by definition - a reprint of a baseball card would be an identical card that was manufactured at a later time. A sheet cut card is manufactured whenever the card is cut from the sheet; this is when the card reaches the end of its manufacturing cycle.
That OPC card is beautiful btw. I love the 1978 set.
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