What is the best way to store ungraded ASE's?

RB1026

What is the best way to store ungraded ASE's with the intent of keeping them in their original (untoned/unspotted) BU condition? I'm interested in hearing what everyone else is doing out there.

Thanks for the feedback!

GBurger717

in tubes......

PerryHall

<< <i>in tubes...... >>

+1

derryb

I have seen them spot and tone while stored in original tubes. Tubes are still probably the best way to store them. If one were to treat (dip) them in hopes of preventing spots then I would store them in non PVC flips after the treatment unless there a whole lot of them that should go back into the tubes. Once in a flip the coin never contacts another coin again.

BAJJERFAN

I'd keep them in the mint tubes and never open them. Sell them the same way, as received. Do not open them when you get them. If it's important to you, APMEX sells sealed rolls at about a $30 premium over "as taken from the monster box" rolls. Of course this does not in any way guarantee that the coins are of any particular quality, only that they are the original coins.

derryb

at the end of the day bullion ASE's are just bullion. A highly preferred form, but still bullion.

nibanny

<< <i>

<< <i>APMEX sells sealed rolls at about a $30 premium over "as taken from the monster box" rolls. Of course this does not in any way guarantee that the coins are of any particular quality, only that they are the original coins. >>




I really like their concept but have a hard time justifying that kind of a premium on the buy side. I would think they could make a lot more in volume sales by having a more modest (~$10) premium but I obviously don't know what all of the issues involved are. >>



I think the premium is as warranty that the tube is not the leftover of a cherrypick.
Some people like their bullion coins graded...

BAJJERFAN

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>APMEX sells sealed rolls at about a $30 premium over "as taken from the monster box" rolls. Of course this does not in any way guarantee that the coins are of any particular quality, only that they are the original coins. >>




I really like their concept but have a hard time justifying that kind of a premium on the buy side. I would think they could make a lot more in volume sales by having a more modest (~$10) premium but I obviously don't know what all of the issues involved are. >>



I think the premium is as warranty that the tube is not the leftover of a cherrypick.
Some people like their bullion coins graded... >>



But one could open it 20 years down the road and find 20 spotted eagles.

nibanny

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>APMEX sells sealed rolls at about a $30 premium over "as taken from the monster box" rolls. Of course this does not in any way guarantee that the coins are of any particular quality, only that they are the original coins. >>




I really like their concept but have a hard time justifying that kind of a premium on the buy side. I would think they could make a lot more in volume sales by having a more modest (~$10) premium but I obviously don't know what all of the issues involved are. >>



I think the premium is as warranty that the tube is not the leftover of a cherrypick.
Some people like their bullion coins graded... >>



But one could open it 20 years down the road and find 20 spotted eagles. >>



Correct, but in my opinion you should buy the MintDirect Sealed tube only if you are looking for the 70's to be submitted and flipped.

nibanny

Back to the OP question, keep them in tube in a place with no humidity and hope for the best.
I stopped doing silver coins because of the milk spots.

JohnnyCache

I have many Silver Eagles that have been stored in their tubes, taped closed, stored in a dry stable environment and yet, as derryb stated, when I recently opened up a tube, around 15 years old, some of the eagles had spots.
The spots were not terrible and in fact were not particularly eye catching, some even barley visible to the plain eye, but when you shine a high powered flashlight on them the spots will just jump right out at you.

...............
As a side note:
If you've never checked your eagles with a high powered light you'd be surprised at what can be picked up.
No affiliation but just to share I use lights from EagleTac. I keep one in my pocket all the time, one by the computer, one by the bed, one in the car, one in the wife's PB and have other in suitable locations as well as having gifted them to family. I chose this particular model for it's size, lumen power, battery type, battery life and other features. The battery type was very important to me because, although exotic battery types can provide higher output, AA batteries can always be scrounged up from somewhere in an emergency, such as tv remotes. I choose to power my flashlights with Eneloop rechargable batteries. I do this both from an economical standpoint but also because these batteries have an excellent shelf life in terms of passive discharge power loss. They will retain up to 70% of their charge after 5 years of storage. How often have you gone and grabbed your old style light only to find it dead as a door nail.
Sorry to veer off topic but I believe a real good flashlight is an important tool for bullion/coin collectors to have when shopping not to mention all the other times it could come in handy.
............


To get back on topic I'll just ask this question: Has anyone ever considered using one of those vacuum sealing food saver machines to even further lock out air and moisture from their tubes?
I could see a possibility where one could seal up a small bundle of tubes, say four tubes, in a vacuumed sealed bag for the highest degree of spotting prevention.


Just some thoughts

JC
.
.
.


PS
I hope no one is offended by the flashlight / battery recommendations , it's just what works well for me, your mileage may vary.

ricko

Give them all an acetone rinse, then put in tubes and vacuseal them in bags. Cheers, RickO

BAJJERFAN

<< <i>I have many Silver Eagles that have been stored in their tubes, taped closed, stored in a dry stable environment and yet, as derryb stated, when I recently opened up a tube, around 15 years old, some of the eagles had spots.
The spots were not terrible and in fact were not particularly eye catching, some even barley visible to the plain eye, but when you shine a high powered flashlight on them the spots will just jump right out at you.

...............
As a side note:
If you've never checked your eagles with a high powered light you'd be surprised at what can be picked up.
No affiliation but just to share I use lights from EagleTac. I keep one in my pocket all the time, one by the computer, one by the bed, one in the car, one in the wife's PB and have other in suitable locations as well as having gifted them to family. I chose this particular model for it's size, lumen power, battery type, battery life and other features. The battery type was very important to me because, although exotic battery types can provide higher output, AA batteries can always be scrounged up from somewhere in an emergency, such as tv remotes. I choose to power my flashlights with Eneloop rechargable batteries. I do this both from an economical standpoint but also because these batteries have an excellent shelf life in terms of passive discharge power loss. They will retain up to 70% of their charge after 5 years of storage. How often have you gone and grabbed your old style light only to find it dead as a door nail.
Sorry to veer off topic but I believe a real good flashlight is an important tool for bullion/coin collectors to have when shopping not to mention all the other times it could come in handy.
............


To get back on topic I'll just ask this question: Has anyone ever considered using one of those vacuum sealing food saver machines to even further lock out air and moisture from their tubes?
I could see a possibility where one could seal up a small bundle of tubes, say four tubes, in a vacuumed sealed bag for the highest degree of spotting prevention.


Just some thoughts

JC
.
.
.


PS
I hope no one is offended by the flashlight / battery recommendations , it's just what works well for me, your mileage may vary. >>



A number of people here seal their ASEs in the food saver bags. FWIW, in the past someone [perhaps yourself] here mentioned that it was possible to see the incipient spots with a halogen flashlight before they became visible to the unaided eye. At that point the spots could still be removed by dipping.

nibanny

<< <i>
PS
I hope no one is offended by the flashlight / battery recommendations , it's just what works well for me, your mileage may vary. >>



Thank you! I have been looking for a good flashlight for quite a while but was waiting for a direct referral!

DorkGirl

In their unopened green monster box.

Bochiman

<< <i>Can someone explain to me why the US government can't just treat these silver coins before or after die striking such that spotting is minimized. I would think it would be rather easy for them to do but I'm not very knowledgeable about the minting process. >>



Sure, they could. Time and expense and effort to make sure that is all that is needed to be done. Would suck for all that effort and cost to happen and then still have spotting show up.
That said, since they sell the unc versions, that people are talking about here, as a bullion play, they want to try to keep the cost as close to spot as they can. Doing all the other stuff would just keep increasing the prices and, imho, the mint already charges too much for most of what they sell. If they added more to the unc bullion versions, then the middlemen would not eat the cost but would pass it on as well. No bueno!

BAJJERFAN

<< <i>Can someone explain to me why the US government can't just treat these silver coins before or after die striking such that spotting is minimized. I would think it would be rather easy for them to do but I'm not very knowledgeable about the minting process. >>



Well, I suppose if there was an easy way to do it that they would be doing it. As I understand it from my conversation with the former head of quality control for the Mint, they would love a cost effective solution. AFAIK, they don't even know exactly what causes it.

There are 2 schools of thought here. One board member says to rinse them with acetone though he doesn't say what the acetone is supposed to be removing. He also stores them in food storage bags. That would be something to try on a 1,000 coin scale, but there are issues with product throughput, using a flammable solvent which would need to be captured and recovered/reused. I would be desirable to make sure that all of the coins are dry before packaging.

A second approach since EZest is said prevent their appearance if caught early enough so a wash/dip in something like 5% sulfuric acid solution would probably be effective. The coins would then need to be completely washed and dried. This would prohibit some of the bulk handling involved, since it would be difficult to ensure that EVERY coin coin was thoroughly washed and that bulk handling would likely ding the cois.