18/17 Buffalo opinion please?link to coin added

This is the only pic provided to me so I am looking for some opinions if they can even be given of the date. Not concerned if treated, cleaned, dipped just trying to verify the date. Thank you ahead of time for your opinions.( the seller is stating it is authentic )

edited the best I could

link I finally found the listing and this is the link thanks all for the help

edited the best I could

link I finally found the listing and this is the link thanks all for the help
0
Comments
peacockcoins
it is really strong and obvious on an example in that condition
.
The lower hole in yours is clearly round.
If you do a google image search for 1918/7-d buffalo nickel,
you will find many images of the real thing.
Very easy to look up.
Let's be very specific about what we are looking for , so that more may discover what so few of us ever find.
took this shot from the rebook. I guess it's a form of plagiarism with the smartphone.
From the 66th edition of the Red Book.
<< <i>This is the only pic provided to me so I am looking for some opinions if they can even be given of the date. Not concerned if treated, cleaned, dipped just trying to verify the date. Thank you ahead of time for your opinions.( the seller is stating it is authentic )
edited the best I could
and maybe…. just maybe there are hints of the 7. But it has to match , from my experiences.
Text
Edited to add:
His price is way out there, I think the best I ever did was maybe 150 to 175 for such a treated coin.
In any event, I felt like I should get my say. I am personally 100% guaranteeing the authenticity of this coin and my listing has a return guarantee and a special privilege of full extended refund if buyer wants to send the coin in for authenticy. I will even refund the TPG costs if it were to come back as fake.
I am not some Chinese couterfitter. I am a normal collector who sells on ebay as part of my hobby. My account has over 1000 feedback rating and only 99.8% positive. I have dealt with buffalos for a very long time, am an ANA member, and have actually published on the matter (local coin club).
I will go over the main diagnostics of this coin. Everybody should keep in mind that this is a restored coin (which was completely disclosed and discussed in the listing), so the details will always seam a bit blurry. The diagonal bar of the 7 will create two half moon circles within the '8'. This is mostly evident in circle positioning rather than shape at very low grades or restored. If one compares to a regular '8', which clearly shows one circle on top of the other, you will notice the upper loop to the left of the lower loop. Maybe the pictures aren't the best, but it is very obvious in hand. On the reverse, you will first notice the the reverse has been rotated at what has been estimated at about 15 degrees. This coin is an exact match. There was also only one reverse die used which has a fairly particular shape and position of the mintmark 'D'. I won't go into detail as "kevinstang" has already brought this up, but the coin is an exact match. In my experience the die break disappears from original coins at right around original VF grades so obviously that would be missing.
I have bought and sold many overdates before. Both originals and restored coins and both on ebay and off ebay. I would vouch my entire reputation that this coin is genuine and I have certified examples in my possession to compare.
The buyer, along with the insults, has reported my listing. Customer service told me that they would remove it because saying it was "restored" and not "acid-dated" implies it is a replica. This is absurd of course, but actually confirms that they agree it is a 1918/7-D. I suppose they didn't bother to check the 100's of other listings, including more of my own, that say the same thing or nothing at all.
I have also offered to make a wager with the buyer in question confirming the authenticity. His response was that I have to send him the coin for free and that he would only trust Rick Snow or Fred Wineburg to look at the coin closely. I suppose that is just a way of trying to get out of a deep hole he's dug for himself.
I would welcome any responses and any personal messages from anyone if they would like to discuss this further. Contrary to what the OP may say, I'm actually a very nice normal collector who would love to discuss this or anything else. Sorry for the long message, but I had a lot to say.
<< <i>Hello everybody. I am the seller of this coin and I have dug up this old account in order to respond on the matter. It wasn't a big deal, but for whatever reason the buyer, the individual who started this thread, has been repeatedly insulting and berating me about this coin. I've never seen anything like his behavior before from somebody who hasn't even bought the coin.
In any event, I felt like I should get my say. I am personally 100% guaranteeing the authenticity of this coin and my listing has a return guarantee and a special privilege of full extended refund if buyer wants to send the coin in for authenticy. I will even refund the TPG costs if it were to come back as fake.
I am not some Chinese couterfitter. I am a normal collector who sells on ebay as part of my hobby. My account has over 1000 feedback rating and only 99.8% positive. I have dealt with buffalos for a very long time, am an ANA member, and have actually published on the matter (local coin club).
I will go over the main diagnostics of this coin. Everybody should keep in mind that this is a restored coin (which was completely disclosed and discussed in the listing), so the details will always seam a bit blurry. The diagonal bar of the 7 will create two half moon circles within the '8'. This is mostly evident in circle positioning rather than shape at very low grades or restored. If one compares to a regular '8', which clearly shows one circle on top of the other, you will notice the upper loop to the left of the lower loop. Maybe the pictures aren't the best, but it is very obvious in hand. On the reverse, you will first notice the the reverse has been rotated at what has been estimated at about 15 degrees. This coin is an exact match. There was also only one reverse die used which has a fairly particular shape and position of the mintmark 'D'. I won't go into detail as "kevinstang" has already brought this up, but the coin is an exact match. In my experience the die break disappears from original coins at right around original VF grades so obviously that would be missing.
I have bought and sold many overdates before. Both originals and restored coins and both on ebay and off ebay. I would vouch my entire reputation that this coin is genuine and I have certified examples in my possession to compare.
The buyer, along with the insults, has reported my listing. Customer service told me that they would remove it because saying it was "restored" and not "acid-dated" implies it is a replica. This is absurd of course, but actually confirms that they agree it is a 1918/7-D. I suppose they didn't bother to check the 100's of other listings, including more of my own, that say the same thing or nothing at all.
I have also offered to make a wager with the buyer in question confirming the authenticity. His response was that I have to send him the coin for free and that he would only trust Rick Snow or Fred Wineburg to look at the coin closely. I suppose that is just a way of trying to get out of a deep hole he's dug for himself.
I would welcome any responses and any personal messages from anyone if they would like to discuss this further. Contrary to what the OP may say, I'm actually a very nice normal collector who would love to discuss this or anything else. Sorry for the long message, but I had a lot to say. >>
Thanks for the confirmation. I could see it as a 18/7, some diagnostics look like they can be there.
Not very good on lostincoins.
Need to be careful confronting people with less than clear pictures.
listed here
Please see my post earlier in this thread for my opinions on the coin or just read the listing as some of it is repeated.
I'm glad to see some posters actually realizing that this coin is authentic.
Thanks everybody and keep the comments coming.
1st) sold for $430
2nd) sold for $600
3rd) sold for $400 and certified by NGC
4th) the overdate in question in this thred
5th) and 6th) just two other restored overdates I currently have
7th picture) the composite of dates
slideshow
RAD#306
<< <i>I also have a number of pictures from some of my other restored overdates for comparison. Pics will be small for size, but are good enough to decipher. I then have provided a composite picture of all the dates. Sorry for the double post
1st) sold for $430
2nd) sold for $600
3rd) sold for $400 and certified by NGC
4th) the overdate in question in this thred
5th) and 6th) just two other restored overdates I currently have >>
I agree that #3 (top right corner) is a 1918/7.
#2 is a "possible" (I'd lean towards not an overdate). Need a better image.
The others are not (judging from the images provided). The bottom loop of the 8 is round in them.
On ebay there is a potential honesty problem, because the seller controls the image quality.
A seller may choose to provide a lower quality image which suggests possibilities,
rather than provide a quality image which rules out the possible overdate.
<< <i>DEFINITELY NOT THE 18/7 >>
I am still so amazed that so many people do not believe the coin is genuine, despite what I see as obvious diagnostics and the fact that my record (ANA and ebay) shows no red flags. Several people have pointed out that the pictures are simply not good enough to tell. I can understand that point. Regardless, I have just pulled my own auction and I will submit this coin, along with the two others overdates I currently have, to PCGS for authentication.
I will probably be able to ship them off later this week and after a couple weeks I will be able to post the results. I will post results regardless of what they are. I always believe everyone has room to grow and learn. It is my opinion that many people here do not fully understand what a restored overdate is supposed to look like and what diagnostics remain and what are missing. It should be kept in mind that I have dealt with many of these before and have already had a coin certified in the past that looked about the same to the naked eye as the one in this thread. I'm not angry with anyone over their opinion. We will find out one way or the other. If I am indeed wrong, I will admit my mistake. If I am able to post pictures of several slabs in a few weeks, I would expect some apologies.
Expect pending updates.