Any plastic polish from your automotive store or the automotive section of your local Walmart. I've had good results with Brasso that even says on the label that it's good for removing scratches from acrylic watch crystals.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
<< <i>Plast-X or some other similar plastic polish. >>
Plast-X is available at your local auto parts store and also works good on renewing dull plastic covers on car headlights. It was designed for cleaning convertible top plastic windows.
The decline from democracy to tyranny is both a natural and inevitable one.
However I am guessing it's the exact same stuff mentioned above, only more expensive >>
I've used it, and on the basis of color, odor and consistency I'd say it is repackaged Novus. I've gotten the best results with PlastX.
It does take a bit of work sometimes. One application is usually enough. But sometimes I've had to make several passes.
Use some effort. Bear down on it. Use a clean section of the rag often or you will add scratches, not remove them. A light finishing buff helps.
Even when polish won't completely remove bad scratches it still softens edges. So light doesn't catch them as well. The photo will look a lot better. (A common problem with slab photos showing lots of scratches is failure to focus properly. Focus beyond the slab and on the coin.)
FWIW, NGC slabs are a bear. The plastic is different...softer and more pliable, and scratches are very difficult to remove. Best advice is to get the coin in a PCGS slab. Lance.
<< <i>I like the reholder submission method the best..... >>
Sounds a lot more expensive ($10+shipping+insurance) and more trouble (packaging, drive to the PO, stand in line, etc) than just polishing out the scratches while watching one of your favorite TV shows. Also, I hate entrusting my favorite coins in the hands of others and out of my sight.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
For superficial scuffs & scratches, the PlastX probably just fills in the irregularity allowing light to pass through undisturbed. For heavier scratches, you'll actually need to move some plastic around (on a microscopic scale) and it will take a little elbow grease to polish it out.
If you've got one that is really bad, some fine-grit sandpaper can be used, followed by a little TLC with a polishing compound. Just be careful with the power tools. They're great, but if you over-do it the slab can actually melt and that's pretty hard to clean up. You'll be surprised at what kind of problems you can fix with a little effort. As far as I'm concerned, scratches alone are no reason to have a coin re-holdered.
I don't believe that is correct, Bryce. Plastic polish like PlastX actually finely abrades the surface. It doesn't fill-in scratches.
One of the reasons you need to continually use a fresh, clean cloth is because fine particles of the plastic removed remain in the polish and can add new scratches if you don't move to a new, clean part of the cloth.
I agree that deep scratches cannot be removed with a plastic polish. But the polish will soften the sharp edges which catch light and will make them less prominent.
I have not tried fine grit sandpaper and polishing compound. But that's an experiment I will try on some cracked-out holders. Lance.
I sold a first spouse on ebay that came back to me because of a " scratch " on the slab over the coin.
I couldn't convince the guy to keep it and I honored my return policy. I later sold it with a lesser mark showing after some polishing.
It came to me from pcgs with a relatively deep manufacturing defect right over the forehead. A pencil lead sized whorl was obviously made in, and I made them at pcgs. So I knew it was factory.
I polished the heck out of that slab thinking I needed to do it to sell it again. I got it about halfway out after maybe 3 blisters and more sore knuckles (knuckles for more pressure).
After that much work and time I realized it wasn't worth it and both the previous buyer and I were making a mine shaft out of a pencil tip. I quit polishing and sold it fine with the bullet point right over the forehead.
I do think it is possible to polish it out despite the depth, but the plastic would be a lot thinner on that side. I just didn't see the point as I could focus past the plastic defect.
A question to all - has anyone found any of the new (square hologram sticker) PCGS slabs with any big scratches yet? I have a few of those slabs now and they appear tougher and clearer to me.
<< <i>A question to all - has anyone found any of the new (square hologram sticker) PCGS slabs with any big scratches yet? I have a few of those slabs now and they appear tougher and clearer to me. >>
According to DW the new slabs are scratch-resistant and have better/clearer optics. Lance.
Using laboratory polishing medium and a Dremel tool is faster, and much easier on the knuckles....used it often for cross section analysis under microscopes....leaves the plastic (epoxy) clear.... not good for deep gouges. Cheers, RickO
I use this combo the lowest speed and time . I found a buffing wheel with felt for it but don.t have a image. Have done serveral hundred slabs to the bottle.
<< <i>According to DW the new slabs are scratch-resistant and have better/clearer optics. Lance. >>
I carried around the FUN sample slab in my pocket for the remainder of the show and the trip home after receiving it. There were some minor scratches on it that I saw under magnification and I was able to buff them out. Scratch-resistant does not mean scratch-proof. New slabs and newly polished slabs all go into plastic sleeves for easier storage in double-row boxes.
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Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
We'll use our hands and hearts and if we must we'll use our heads.
http://www.slabrenew.com
However I am guessing it's the exact same stuff mentioned above, only more expensive
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<< <i>Plast-X or some other similar plastic polish. >>
Plast-X is available at your local auto parts store and also works good on renewing dull plastic covers on car headlights. It was designed for cleaning convertible top plastic windows.
The decline from democracy to tyranny is both a natural and inevitable one.
<< <i>This is also this ... which is supposedly made for coin slabs ...
http://www.slabrenew.com
However I am guessing it's the exact same stuff mentioned above, only more expensive >>
I've used it, and on the basis of color, odor and consistency I'd say it is repackaged Novus. I've gotten the best results with PlastX.
It does take a bit of work sometimes. One application is usually enough. But sometimes I've had to make several passes.
Use some effort. Bear down on it. Use a clean section of the rag often or you will add scratches, not remove them. A light finishing buff helps.
Even when polish won't completely remove bad scratches it still softens edges. So light doesn't catch them as well. The photo will look a lot better. (A common problem with slab photos showing lots of scratches is failure to focus properly. Focus beyond the slab and on the coin.)
FWIW, NGC slabs are a bear. The plastic is different...softer and more pliable, and scratches are very difficult to remove. Best advice is to get the coin in a PCGS slab.
Lance.
<< <i>I like the reholder submission method the best..... >>
Sounds a lot more expensive ($10+shipping+insurance) and more trouble (packaging, drive to the PO, stand in line, etc) than just polishing out the scratches while watching one of your favorite TV shows. Also, I hate entrusting my favorite coins in the hands of others and out of my sight.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
<< <i>This is also this ... which is supposedly made for coin slabs ...
http://www.slabrenew.com
However I am guessing it's the exact same stuff mentioned above, only more expensive >>
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<< <i>I like the reholder submission method the best..... >>
I agree.........that is until the reholdered coins come back with scratches on the slabs!
The name is LEE!
If you've got one that is really bad, some fine-grit sandpaper can be used, followed by a little TLC with a polishing compound. Just be careful with the power tools. They're great, but if you over-do it the slab can actually melt and that's pretty hard to clean up. You'll be surprised at what kind of problems you can fix with a little effort. As far as I'm concerned, scratches alone are no reason to have a coin re-holdered.
One of the reasons you need to continually use a fresh, clean cloth is because fine particles of the plastic removed remain in the polish and can add new scratches if you don't move to a new, clean part of the cloth.
I agree that deep scratches cannot be removed with a plastic polish. But the polish will soften the sharp edges which catch light and will make them less prominent.
I have not tried fine grit sandpaper and polishing compound. But that's an experiment I will try on some cracked-out holders.
Lance.
I sold a first spouse on ebay that came back to me because of a " scratch " on the slab over the coin.
I couldn't convince the guy to keep it and I honored my return policy. I later sold it with a lesser mark showing after some polishing.
It came to me from pcgs with a relatively deep manufacturing defect right over the forehead. A pencil lead sized whorl was obviously made in, and I made them at pcgs. So I knew it was factory.
I polished the heck out of that slab thinking I needed to do it to sell it again. I got it about halfway out after maybe 3 blisters and more sore knuckles (knuckles for more pressure).
After that much work and time I realized it wasn't worth it and both the previous buyer and I were making a mine shaft out of a pencil tip. I quit polishing and sold it fine with the bullet point right over the forehead.
I do think it is possible to polish it out despite the depth, but the plastic would be a lot thinner on that side. I just didn't see the point as I could focus past the plastic defect.
10-4,
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None of mine were ever so "affected" to bother mentioning.
This would be a rare mechanical error on a submission.
Ask how they've held up in a few years.
<< <i>A question to all - has anyone found any of the new (square hologram sticker) PCGS slabs with any big scratches yet? I have a few of those slabs now and they appear tougher and clearer to me. >>
According to DW the new slabs are scratch-resistant and have better/clearer optics.
Lance.
<< <i>According to DW the new slabs are scratch-resistant and have better/clearer optics.
Lance. >>
I carried around the FUN sample slab in my pocket for the remainder of the show and the trip home after receiving it. There were some minor scratches on it that I saw under magnification and I was able to buff them out. Scratch-resistant does not mean scratch-proof. New slabs and newly polished slabs all go into plastic sleeves for easier storage in double-row boxes.
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